Awning?

[Dutch106]

Hi all, new member here.

I’ve recently had a new metal building put up and during the course of a few storms I’m remedied all of the water leaks except for the windows. I’d like to install awnings over the windows and was wondering if anyone else has installed awnings on this type of metal building. The building uses 2 1/2 tubing as the “frame”.

Thanks

 

[pmiranda]

I think if it's flashed correctly the window (or doors for that matter) won't leak... got a picture of the outside top and side of the window?

 

[Dutch106]

I think if it's flashed correctly the window (or doors for that matter) won't leak... got a picture of the outside top and side of the window?

Here ya go

 

[pmiranda]

Yeah, no flashing, I bet that's the issue. Water finds a way. IMO the right fix is to loosen the panel above/around the window and insert a Z flashing to shed water off the top. I'm less sure about the side detail but search some threads and I bet you'll find the right answer.

 

[Chuckster in NJ]

Do you know where the water is getting in? (EG: Top, Side, etc.) Take a hose and spray the area while someone is looking inside.
A properly flashed and caulked (with a good silicone) window should NOT leak if the drain holes are not clogged.
Installing an awning is a "band aid solution" that may or may not work.

BTW! NICE BUILDING!!!

 

[Dutch106]

Water will accumulate/ bead up in the areas in red and will follow the wall to the floor. But I haven’t been able to see any water on top of the window while inside the building.

 

[Innovate1]

You said you had this put up. Why aren't the leaks the responsibility of whoever put it up? Seems like it shouldn't leak when new.

 

[sweetk30]

ton's of info in this thread from a week or so ago same problems .

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=447805&highlight=water+leaks+pole+barn

 

[readhead]

Those windows are made for metal buildings and vinyl siding and "don't require any additional flashing". I installed them once on a building we were hired to erect. Owner blamed the leaks on me. Couldn't fix them and ultimately had some custom flashing made at my expense and fixed them. Absolutely would never use them again.

 

[Dutch106]

Those windows are made for metal buildings and vinyl siding and "don't require any additional flashing". I installed them once on a building we were hired to erect. Owner blamed the leaks on me. Couldn't fix them and ultimately had some custom flashing made at my expense and fixed them. Absolutely would never use them again.

I’m beginning to regret the Windows. But nevertheless I’ve got to fix them before I insulate the building.

 

[pmiranda]

I see alot of people get great advice after it's too late on GJ... I think with some flashing you'll be alright.The supplier of the metal siding might even sell it so the color matches, but once it's done and tight you'll forget all about this in a few months.

 

[kbs2244]

An old trick to find where a leak is coming from is to use food dye at suspected spots.
Different colors for different spots.
Lighter colors are easier to see

 

[matt_i]

If you cut and bent a "mini awning" from matching trim coil....inthe shape of a "drip cap" it would help a lot. I cringe when I see sealant-only joints because eventually its going to leak....

 

[Dutch106]

How would I go about attaching flashing to the siding of this building. The overlapping panel is circled and the panels run the length of the wall.

 

[readhead]

Cut a slot above the window. Remove the screws around the window so the sheet can flex and then slip the Z flashing under the sheet and over the window. Replace the screws. You will have to cut the caulk you installed.

 

[Dutch106]

Cut a slot above the window. Remove the screws around the window so the sheet can flex and then slip the Z flashing under the sheet and over the window. Replace the screws. You will have to cut the caulk you installed.

Does the flashing need to be fastened in place?

 

[readhead]

You will need to install screws above the window and that will secure the flashing.

 

[Dutch106]

Hey guys, using this piece of cardboard for example, let’s say for Instance the inside of my garage door is the exterior wall (it’s pouring here so I can’t mock it up outside). Would installing a piece of trim as shown be an acceptable practice? Also I’ve noticed that when it rains, water will make its way under my small side door. Would this be a lack of flashing issue as well? I’d like to avoid cutting into the side of the building to install flashing if I can.

Thanks

 

[pmiranda]

Assuming the cardboard is slipped up behind the siding above it, yeah, that's the general idea. Of course, unless you want the awning to shade the window, all you really need is flashing to direct the water coming down the wall over and down past the window instead of having it pool on the top of the window frame.
Is water coming in under the door frame, or between the frame and the door itself? Either way, normal practice for an exterior door would be for it to sit a few inches above the outside deck. Is there a rubber sweep on the bottom of the door? Those are usually easy to add on if it doesn't have one already.

 

[Dutch106]

Assuming the cardboard is slipped up behind the siding above it, yeah, that's the general idea. Of course, unless you want the awning to shade the window, all you really need is flashing to direct the water coming down the wall over and down past the window instead of having it pool on the top of the window frame.
Is water coming in under the door frame, or between the frame and the door itself? Either way, normal practice for an exterior door would be for it to sit a few inches above the outside deck. Is there a rubber sweep on the bottom of the door? Those are usually easy to add on if it doesn't have one already.

The bottom of the door is a couple inches above the steps. I believe it’s coming from under the door frame but I’m not sure. Do I need to do anything other than silicone the seam when I cut into the siding and place the flashing on it? I’m worried that if I cut into the building I may create another leak.

 

[Dutch106]

Pic of door bottom

 

[dfiler2]

The flashing should be shaped sorta like a "Z" the top flange needs to go behind the siding. The cardboard piece you have looks to me like it is missing the top flange. It would be my guess that the water ending up on the threshold of the door is coming from around the edges of the door, not from the sides where it is caulked. An awning may be your best solution there, doors like that that are mounted on the out side and open out are always hard to seal.

 

[pmiranda]

The door itself should have a rubber sweep on the bottom which pushes against the frame to seal out water and prevent air infiltration. Usually there is a rubber flap all the way around the frame too. Should be easy to add.

The big thing about flashing is that it requires water to go up in order to get into the building. The caulking is just extra insurance.

 

[Dutch106]

The flashing should be installed like this, right? The bottom of the flashing doesn’t need to be sealed like the top side of it right? Do I use caulk or silicone? Which kind?

 

[dfiler2]

Correct, I also like to cut the flashing a little long and bend down the ends to keep any water from running around the end of the flashing.

 

[pmiranda]

What's that fastener for?

 

[Dutch106]

What's that fastener for?

Screwing it into the sheet metal siding. The flashing has to be fastened right?

 

[Dutch106]

Correct, I also like to cut the flashing a little long and bend down the ends to keep any water from running around the end of the flashing.

I was thinking about making the flashing a foot longer on either side of the window. Just to keep water off the window and the siding near the window.

 

[pmiranda]

If that's a rubber washer screw to hold the siding down that makes sense. I don't think you need extra fasteners for the flashing if the siding is tight.
If you can, I'd run the silicone between the flashing and the siding.
In theory you don't need the silicone at all unless you want to pressure wash the flashing or you have a hurricane. Caulking applied to the outside of a joint might do more to trap moisture inside than to keep it out. Water wants to run down.

 

[Dutch106]

If that's a rubber washer screw to hold the siding down that makes sense. I don't think you need extra fasteners for the flashing if the siding is tight.
If you can, I'd run the silicone between the flashing and the siding.
In theory you don't need the silicone at all unless you want to pressure wash the flashing or you have a hurricane. Caulking applied to the outside of a joint might do more to trap moisture inside than to keep it out. Water wants to run down.

It’ll be a rubber washer screw. The crew that put the building up left some behind. So put silicone between the flashing and the interior side of the siding? Rather than where the flashing and the exterior side of the siding meet? Its not really so much as “siding”. More like sheets of metal screwed to a metal tube frame. The sheet metal walls are screwed along each vertical post

 

[pmiranda]

Silicone between the flashing and the exterior sheet. Unless the screw was already there, I wouldn't put new screws above the window. One on either side of the window should hold the sheeting in place fine.

 

[Dutch106]

Silicone between the flashing and the exterior sheet. Unless the screw was already there, I wouldn't put new screws above the window. One on either side of the window should hold the sheeting in place fine.

Ok. The length of the flashing will probably be 4.5ft long. So one screw on either end should suffice? Should the silicone be where it is illustrated in my drawing or elsewhere?

 

[pmiranda]

The picture on post 14 shows screws only where the vertical structure is, and screws on either side of the window. I'd caulk at the red spot:

 

[CraigStu]

Correct, I also like to cut the flashing a little long and bend down the ends to keep any water from running around the end of the flashing.

I agree. The same theory as a drip edge on a roof. I'd want that bent down piece at least 45 degrees down and 1 to 1.5 inches long. I'd make the basic bend of the flashing like my green line.
Inked16F73DCD-AABF-439F-A22D-39FAEBB9A17A_LI by craig stuard, on Flickr
I think, if you play w/ some cardboard to work out the cuts and bends, you could end up w/ the ends being mostly enclosed.

 

[Dutch106]

How would I seal where the end of the flashing meets the edge of the cut in the wall?

 

[pmiranda]

Normally it just overlaps a flat side flashing between the siding and the window flange. Since you don't have that, I'd just overlap the siding below the top flashing (that is, the top flashing is wider than the window).

 

[Dutch106]

Normally it just overlaps a flat side flashing between the siding and the window flange. Since you don't have that, I'd just overlap the siding below the top flashing (that is, the top flashing is wider than the window).

I’m not sure I know what you mean by- over lap the siding below the top flashing

 

[pmiranda]

Normally at the top corners of a window you'd have a sandwich: top piece is the siding above. middle piece is the flashing, bottom piece is the siding below.

 

[Dutch106]

Normally at the top corners of a window you'd have a sandwich: top piece is the siding above. middle piece is the flashing, bottom piece is the siding below.

How would I overlap the siding beneath the flashing?

 

[pmiranda]

The flashing runs wider than the window, and you cut a slit in the siding big enough for the flashing to fit. You'll still have a tiny spot right at the ends where you don't have a full sandwich unless you stuff in yet another little piece of metal, since this is being retrofit instead of built right the first time, but a little dab of silicone should do the trick.