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Back stabbing/back wiring

Dick in Wisconsin

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I learn something new everytime I spend a few minutes on this site.

I saw some derogatory comments about backstabbing electrical outlets on another thread, did some research, and discovered this:

http://www.handymanhowto.com/2011/01/17/electrical-outlets-side-wire-versus-back-wire/

The author's conclusion is:

A. Side wiring is always good.
B. Quickwire push-in (backstab) should be avoided.
C. Back wiring with the screw and clamp system is my preference.

What is the concensus of the GJF? Is back wiring with the screw and clamp system the best?

If it is, then I should avoid the cheap outlets, bypass them, and buy ONLY outlets that use the "screw and clamp system". Right?

Thanks!
 
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sberry

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Better outlets cant hurt but i have hundreds of the 50 cent ones in service, some in hi cycle applications on workbenches, I cant remember last time I replace one.
 

ecsimonson

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My mom's house recently had an outlet stop working. When I went to replace it I noticed it and the wiring going to it were all melted. The outlet just upstream from the one that burned was backstabbed and lost its common wire connection. I don't trust backstabbed outlets and would never wire one that way.
 

e-tek

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Just because it's the authors preference doesn't make it the best system. I'll stick with side wiring using cost-effective outlets.
 

FluxCore

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Like the author said, side wiring is fine, even on cheap outlets.....if side wired outlet fails it doesn't cause a wiring fault, it just looses good contact with whatever is plugged in.

Howerever, side wired outlets are more difficult to daisy chain properly and reliably in some cases, whereas many back wired screw clamp outlets have two conductor connections per screw so usually wire nutted legs are not necessary.
 

KenC

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Not a pro, but I've done hundreds of these installs.

C is my choice too.

But, I think the real issue is outlet quality, not type. I've seen some really crummy backstab hardware. Weak springs, flimsy plastic etc. Also some really good ones, but cost 2-3 times the 'normal' ones. Side wiring is clumsy, especially with solid wire.

I've adopted a practice of always pigtailing outlets, so they all only have 2 wire connections. Makes side wiring easier.

But, since I prefer best quality in wiring devices, I just normally go with the screw clamp type as they are always good quality, at least where I shop.
 

ddawg16

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Not a pro, but I've done hundreds of these installs.

C is my choice too.

But, I think the real issue is outlet quality, not type. I've seen some really crummy backstab hardware. Weak springs, flimsy plastic etc. Also some really good ones, but cost 2-3 times the 'normal' ones. Side wiring is clumsy, especially with solid wire.

I've adopted a practice of always pigtailing outlets, so they all only have 2 wire connections. Makes side wiring easier.

But, since I prefer best quality in wiring devices, I just normally go with the screw clamp type as they are always good quality, at least where I shop.

That is my preference....especially now. I'm doing the wiring on my addition...I find it easier to daisychain my outlets with a pig tail....I can stuff the bundle into the back of the box and just wire nut the pig tail connections until I'm actually ready to install the outlets. Right now I'm trying to avoid installing the outlets because I will only have to take them off when I do drywall.
 

jeffmoss26

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If I am just replacing an outlet at home, with solid wire, then I have no problem using the screws on the side.
When I did sound/lighting work, a lot of times I had to make up outlet boxes with portable cord/stranded wire, and the higher grade outlets like Hubbell with the screw and clamp/plate made things much easier.
 

Alchymist

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Ist choice is clamp, second would be side wired. NO backstab.

PS when installing new work, wherever possible use the DEEP boxes. Much less wiring hassle.
 

Plump

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My electrician buddy says back stabbing is horrible and he's never steered me wrong before. Take the extra 10 seconds to do it right an avoid issues. Like plumbing, electrical shouldn't have short cuts or you could pay dearly for it.
 
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Falcon67

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I used the regular home store outlets in the shop, but all are side wired. I prefer C, which is like all the good GFCIs are set up.
 

mayday0017

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I backstab light switches and use side post on electrical outlets. My theory is light switches with flourescent bulbs have very little draw. Is this a good theory or should I use side posts on switches too? Really using side posts is easy enough, just figured it doesn't really matter for regular light switch so why bother....

Right/Wrong or Prob doesn't matter?
 

Charles (in GA)

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As a novice i know what a and b is but what is c?

attachment.php


It varies from brand to brand, and this is an older Levition and they have changed somewhat, but this is the backwire commercial type. Well worth the money, won't wear out, plugs won't fall out, heavy conductors inside, and quality wire connections. The only type to use with stranded wire such as stranded THHN pulled in conduits. (I prefer solid wire myself).

Charles
 

FluxCore

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Born and raised in Germany, settled in Lousyana
I backstab light switches and use side post on electrical outlets. My theory is light switches with flourescent bulbs have very little draw. Is this a good theory or should I use side posts on switches too? Really using side posts is easy enough, just figured it doesn't really matter for regular light switch so why bother....

Right/Wrong or Prob doesn't matter?

Well....first remind yourself that the whole back stab concept was conjured up by manufactures to attract contractors seeking to save time/labor costs.

Then attemp to go in a box where the outlet or switch was back stabbed and try to remove the wires....IF the installer left you enough wire to pull outlet/switch far enuff out so you can get a small flat blade screw driver in behind there to release the conductor, you will be ok....Otherwise, you will end up snipping them and wirenutting on extension wires.
 

Big N8

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I am glad to see this thread has stayed positive.

My 2 cents is this.

Side wire are nice but I would prefer option C they are easy to work with.

I replaced all the outlets in my living room and children's rooms with tamper proof outlets that are back wire side screw type receptacles. The builder used all stab back and left me only the 6in required length of wire but once I got going the replacements went in fast.
 

rlitman

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For those who are replacing back stabbed outlets with something better.
There is a slot you put a screwdriver into the back, to release the wire, so you can pull the wire out. Once you use this, the outlet is garbage.
BUT, you need to look at the wire closely. It may still be nicked up so badly by the spring clamp that if you were to screw it to a new outlet, it's ready to break off.
Sometimes it is better to just cut the wire end off by the outlet, and strip a new piece for the replacement.

Oh, and yes, option C is the best, when you can afford that type of outlet (they're something like 10x the price of the cheap ones).
In years past, I always went this way, because the better outlets had nylon (unbreakable) faces, and were just plain constructed better. Today's super cheap outlets are also unbreakable, and have the front sonically welded to the back, which I feel is superior to the riveted system from older outlets, so now I just use the cheap ones.
 

6768rogues

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I don't have a problem with backstabbed outlets if they are quality parts and if they are used properly with the correct wire gauge. A screw can loosen with heating and cooling cycles but a spring will keep tension. I have replaced many receptacles that were side screw wired and the wire got loose and arced. I have only seen problems with backstabbed units if the wires were the wrong gauge or if someone pulled a wire out improperly and reused the receptacle. Simply anecdotal evidence, but it is my experience.
 

Alchymist

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Those little spring contacts can weaken with heating and cooling cycles also. My problem with backstab is the very tiny area of contact with the wire - just the thin edge of that spring less than half the way around the wire. Compare that to the contact area of a 3/4 wrap under the head of a (properly tightened) screw head. The screw will actually flatten the wire, making the contact area ten times that of the spring, and resistance is inversely proportional to contact area. The clamp type probably have even more contact area. JMHO - put your trust where you want it.
 

justsam

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I am a big fan of option C, and well worth the money in my mind, for outlets or switches.

With switches, option C is real easy to remove and replace wires if you don't get that 3 way, or 4 way right the first time!

In regard to passing through to the next outlet, what say the pros about doing that via the outlet as opposed to a separate pigtail? Are both code acceptable? Is one considered a best practice?
 

Alchymist

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I am a big fan of option C, and well worth the money in my mind, for outlets or switches.

With switches, option C is real easy to remove and replace wires if you don't get that 3 way, or 4 way right the first time!

In regard to passing through to the next outlet, what say the pros about doing that via the outlet as opposed to a separate pigtail? Are both code acceptable? Is one considered a best practice?

Pigtails is the better practice, but more time consuming. Makes it easier to change out a defective device, but how often do we have to do that? Also prevents downstream outlets from dying when one receptacle goes bad. Again, how many bad receptacles does one see?
 

rlitman

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Again, how many bad receptacles does one see?

A bunch, but I don't recall a time I ever replaced just one. It's like Pringles.
In my house, I had plugs falling out of just about all of them. I think I've replaced three dozen now. If they're all of the same vintage, they're usually all in the same condition. Who just replaces one burnt out tube in a 4 bulb fluorescent fixture?
 

KenC

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Pigtails is the better practice, but more time consuming. Makes it easier to change out a defective device, but how often do we have to do that? Also prevents downstream outlets from dying when one receptacle goes bad. Again, how many bad receptacles does one see?


I'm not sure it more time consuming. When working with Romex, solid conductors, pushing 4 wires into the box without stressing the outlet or wire is kind of slow, at least for me.

But, I always pigtail with stranded wire, so pushing the four wires to the back of the box using a screwdriver handle is easy without recep in the way. The neatly folding two stranded wires is quick and easy.
 

zacker01

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is there a real difference? everytime i back stabbed, i could never get it apart again, but.. i almost always use the screw terminals.. but i can actually see someone who has never really did any electrical work actually having more problems with screw terminals due to not tightening enough or not having the wire in right...
 
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