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Backfeeding panel with generator power

rockchucker

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To think that we would have never even needed Power Lines if G.E. and Westinghouse would not have shut down Tesla's research.

Off Topic I know but the Article about Electricity flowing through the ground sprang it in my head.
 
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Torque1st

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Not around where the power companies run a neutral/ground. In residential split phase service where the transformer is center tapped and grounded for a neutral a discontinuous neutral will cause unbalanced voltages line to neutral depending on the loads. When this happens lights go bright/dim when loads change and all sorts of other odd things happen.

BTW- I have first hand experience with your quoted question. I lost my neutral a few years ago due to a tree branch.

The power companies would have had a real problem trying to bill customers for their power consumption had Tesla's broadcast power system prevailed. :lol_hitti
 

sdowney717

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The power companies would have had a real problem trying to bill customers for their power consumption had Tesla's broadcast power system prevailed.

I watched a TV show on that. JP Morgan was bankrolling Tesla until Tesla revealed his true plan was to give away free power worldwide to people. JP Morgan had asked him how he could meter the power and Tesla either would not design that or did not know how. So JP Morgan pulled his funding and the whole project collapsed. Eventually Tesla died a pauper.

there was something else about a wireless electric car which Tesla drove around running off his system. He could drive all over a large area. Someone who had seen it said it was full of wire like antennas which Tesla moved around to capture the flow.
 
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mrb

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SWER only works at high voltages with a special transformer (autotransformer?) that keeps the voltage stable. Cant return 120/240 through the earth...
 

sdowney717

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http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-5276.html

here is an interesting discussion on a broken neutral where it looks like the building owner said it was no problem even though a dangerous condition. If a grounding system had a low enough resistance then current would flow.

I also read on another site where 25 ohms on the ground would allow up to 4.5 amps of current to flow through the ground not enough to trip a breaker. volts/ohms = amps 120/25=4.5 amps

A poster commented here, but is there any truth to this statement about tripping a 200 amp breaker??
The best method is a ufer (20' length of #4 rebar) ground embedded in the bottom 3 inches of a concrete footing (thats where the lowest resistance is) grounding the entire system. That typically ties to the main panel with a minimum of #6 solid copper which can carry 200 amps for a short duration tripping a 200 amp main or the fuses on the transformer.
 
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mrb

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http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-5276.html

here is an interesting discussion on a broken neutral where it looks like the building owner said it was no problem even though a dangerous condition. If a grounding system had a low enough resistance then current would flow.

I also read on another site where 25 ohms on the ground would allow up to 4.5 amps of current to flow through the ground not enough to trip a breaker. volts/ohms = amps 120/25=4.5 amps

A poster commented here, but is there any truth to this statement about tripping a 200 amp breaker??

that sounds like a bunch of BS. Current code is if you have a ufer ground (rebar in a footing) you HAVE to use it -not optional. Ufer ground is to dissipate lightning as I understand
 

rockchucker

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The power companies would have had a real problem trying to bill customers for their power consumption had Tesla's broadcast power system prevailed. :lol_hitti

Yes they would have. We would also not be in such a world of hurt right now seeing how 2/3 of ALL Energy that we produce is lost by transmitting it through Power Lines. So dumb. We could all have had free Power and vehicles that needed no Fuel.

I watched a TV show on that. JP Morgan was bankrolling Tesla until Tesla revealed his true plan was to give away free power worldwide to people. JP Morgan had asked him how he could meter the power and Tesla either would not design that or did not know how. So JP Morgan pulled his funding and the whole project collapsed. Eventually Tesla died a pauper.

there was something else about a wireless electric car which Tesla drove around running off his system. He could drive all over a large area. Someone who had seen it said it was full of wire like antennas which Tesla moved around to capture the flow.

Yeah it is too bad that they pulled his funding. The world would be a VERY different place today if it he was allowed to continue his research. Hell 90 % of the crazy **** he though of was doable. A lot he had already proved it worked on smaller scales. All of the money Tycoons shut him down though. What a shame.

Just to think that our Electrical Consumption for the WORLD could be cut in 1/3...and no power lines or poles to deal with EVER! Just large Tesla Towers that could be powered by low consumption Diesel or Gas Engines. Get a receiver and tap in wireless. Or just stick a rod in the ground and start drawing power from the Earth.


Sorry end Rant/


Mods if you want you could move these posts over to a new "Tesla Discussion" thread. I didn't mean to thread jack. Sorry OP. I created a discussion Thread here...


http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=72288
 
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MrMark

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Listen to Mrb, he is preaching the truth here. So many seem to think electricity flows to ground. It does not. It returns to its source. The earth's surface is a huge resistance and very little fault current is going to make it through the earth's surface back to the neutral on the pole.

Mrb did leave out one important function of the grounding system, and that is to tie the neutral to the earth's potential, around zero. This stabilizes the system and prevents voltages from floating or fluctuating. A system will work quite well without any grounding at all. It just floats.

The only 240 in the house with an open neutral will be the multiwire branch circuits that share a neutral. That is why all electricians are taught to hook the neutral first before hooking up the phase legs when doing a reconnect. The neutral gets cut last and hooked up first, the opposite of how one would go about disconnecting and reconnecting DC on a car. The electricians do this because they must assume that there are shared neutrals in the house (foolish wiring in my opinion) and anything hooked to them well be destroyed with 240 V.
 

mrb

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The only 240 in the house with an open neutral will be the multiwire branch circuits that share a neutral. That is why all electricians are taught to hook the neutral first before hooking up the phase legs when doing a reconnect. The neutral gets cut last and hooked up first, the opposite of how one would go about disconnecting and reconnecting DC on a car. The electricians do this because they must assume that there are shared neutrals in the house (foolish wiring in my opinion) and anything hooked to them well be destroyed with 240 V.

the entire service to a house is a big MWBC (shared neutral) if you lose the neutral upstream of your meter all the circuits in the house behave this way. Effectively without the neutral your loads are hooked in series and connected to 240. The voltage drop across each load will depend on what it is in series with. Thats why when you have a bad neutral and you turn stuff on and off you will see lights get brighter and dimmer.
 

MrMark

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I fail to see how the current could return through a device that wasn't wired as a MWBC.

The device has a hot phase leg and an open neutral. That's 120V open circuit voltage with no where for the current to go. The MWBC device differs because the neutral offers a path back to THE OTHER PHASE LEG through downstream wired devices on the MWBC. That's where you see 240 V. Draw it out and you will see.

The fact that the entire house is a big MWBC is not meaningful to this particular point. The devices in your house do not become connected to two phase legs, like the MWBC circuits do, when you lose a neutral.
 

MrMark

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Now, I'm wondering and thinking that all the devices will have 240 on them by virtue of the path through the neutral buss bar back down stream to devices on other phase legs. Thanks for getting me thinking about this MRB.
 

MrMark

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Those devices all would look to be in series too. You'd get 240V divided across all the devices. You were right.

The special danger of the MWBC is that you get 240V at all devices on the circuit if you lose the neutral that serves that particular circuit. Lose a neutral on a normal circuit and only 120V, nothing blows up.

Lose the neutral from the service prior to the buss bar and everything is 240V.

Thanks MRB!
 
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mrb

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Now, I'm wondering and thinking that all the devices will have 240 on them by virtue of the path through the neutral buss bar back down stream to devices on other phase legs. Thanks for getting me thinking about this MRB.

it basically creates a voltage divider. Take some light bulbs in series for example. Two 100 watt light bulbs, connected in series between 240v and the neutral connected to the junction in the center (same as a service or mwbc) each light bulb is going to drop 120v across it, the current through the whole circuit will be ~.83 amps, and there will be no current on the neutral. Remove the neutral and nothing will change because the load is balanced.

Now replace one of those lamps with a 50w. With the neutral in place, the hot leg the 100w lamp is connected to will see ~/.83 amps, the hot the 50w lamp is connected to will see ~.415 amps and the neutral will carry ~.415 amps (the current imbalance). Measure across each lamp and you will have 120v. Now remove the neutral. The 50w lamp is going to get brighter and the 100w lamp is going to get dimmer (i may have gotten the two backwards) one lamp will have around 180v across it and the other will have 60v across it (or something like that)
 

MrMark

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it basically creates a voltage divider. Take some light bulbs in series for example. Two 100 watt light bulbs, connected in series between 240v and the neutral connected to the junction in the center (same as a service or mwbc) each light bulb is going to drop 120v across it, the current through the whole circuit will be ~.83 amps, and there will be no current on the neutral. Remove the neutral and nothing will change because the load is balanced.

Now replace one of those lamps with a 50w. With the neutral in place, the hot leg the 100w lamp is connected to will see ~/.83 amps, the hot the 50w lamp is connected to will see ~.415 amps and the neutral will carry ~.415 amps (the current imbalance). Measure across each lamp and you will have 120v. Now remove the neutral. The 50w lamp is going to get brighter and the 100w lamp is going to get dimmer (i may have gotten the two backwards) one lamp will have around 180v across it and the other will have 60v across it (or something like that)

Great example.
 

sdowney717

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The Shocking Truth About Grounding Electrode Conductors

here is a good read on how if the neutral is open, even on a neighbors home you could be shocked by the ground wire at your house. Talks a lot about current flow threw grounding conductors.

http://ecmweb.com/grounding/electric_shocking_truth_grounding/


here is a very relevant statement
In the case of an open neutral with a low-resistance ground path, the open neutral may never be detected. Currents may continue to travel this path for years until an unsuspecting person opens the ground circuit, potentially placing them in harm's way.

Still bogus article? how about this then

Electrical Construction & Maintenance (EC&M) magazine is the technical authority for 130,000+ electrical professionals, including 80,000+ subscribers in electrical contracting firms (reaching all NECA and IEC member firms and ENR's top 50), 30,000+ subscribers in industrial plants and in commercial/ institutional facilities with 100+ employees (93% coverage of Fortune 1000 firms), and 20,000+ consulting electrical engineers. Through a mix of in-depth technical articles, market and construction forecasts, and comprehensive product reviews, EC&M is the ideal vehicle to reach the largest customers in the $77.8 billion electrical market*. In addition to the print publication, EC&M also produces five high-quality e-newsletters.
 
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sdowney717

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Here a significant current flow threw ground occurs (120 amps), still not enough to trip a 200 amp breaker using only ground rods.
http://yarchive.net/electr/ground_rods.html

I just get the impression that almost everyone who has posted here is saying the earth does not conduct any current or only tiny amounts.
And I suppose all these other articles or people on other forums are all BS?

I deal with grounding systems that HAVE to be good (utility substations and
transmitter ground planes, for instance) and own a Biddle ground resistivity bridge.
I have just a little actual experience in the area.

It's VERY unusual for a single ground rod in dry soil to dip below 1 ohm. Given that,
let's do a little math. Let's assume one ohm. Let's also assume a bolted short
between a hot leg and the ground rod. That would be 120 volts across one ohm which
would produce 120 amps of current through the 200 amp main breaker. For a short
period of time until the heating dried the soil around the ground rod. 120 amps
being less than the 200 amp rating of the breaker, no tripping occurs.

But it gets worse. The secondary of the utility transformer is isolated. The only
connection to earth is, you guessed it, through another single ground rod. Now the
circuit resistance is at least 1+1=2 ohms plus the minor resistance of the
conductors. The bolted fault current is now 120/2=60 amps.
 

mrb

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it depends on distance. soil resistance is per foot or per meter or whatever. how far apart are these two ground rods?

Again, the earth DOES NOT provide a low impedance path for fault current.
 

sdowney717

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yeah of course, I agree with the resistance being higher. But you can not say earth grounds do not conduct significant current and in some cases the home owner might not even realize a problem with the neutral being disconnected as that EC&M article says.
And this is with low voltage 120 and 240 volt systems.
For myself, I am always learning something new.
 

mrb

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yeah of course, I agree with the resistance being higher. But you can not say earth grounds do not conduct significant current and in some cases the home owner might not even realize a problem with the neutral being disconnected as that EC&M article says.
And this is with low voltage 120 and 240 volt systems.
For myself, I am always learning something new.

i looked at that mailing list discussion you posted. I stand by my statement of an earth ground (on a house) will not conduct significant current at 120v. The 1 ohm resistance the guy is speaking to is in a substation grounding grid (and since he works for the utility, he know EVERYTHING :/ ) The earth ground on a house is going to be anywhere from 5 ohms to 100 ohms. It will not return enough current to avoid damage to sensitive devices during a lost neutral, and it will not return enough current to trip a breaker.

I just remembered, I had a situation some years ago where a 20 amp circuit was shorted to a large metal fence. The fence was grounded but not bonded to the building's service. Never tripped the 20 amp breaker which saw the fault as a load that was pulling 8 or 12 amps.
 

mrb

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http://ecmweb.com/grounding/electric_shocking_truth_grounding/
Did you read this one about open neutrals?

It clearly says ground flowing the current an open neutral and owner might not know it.

(I am not really trying to be obnoxious on this, but if someone says grounds dont flow current when a trade magazine says it does, who would you believe?)

I never said it wont flow current. I said it wont flow significant current (enough to trip a breaker) 120v through two 5 ohm ground rods will flow a maximum of 12 amps. not enough to trip a breaker and not enough to keep voltages stable in the event of a lost neutral and heavy load imbalance.
 

Torque1st

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The ground does not flow enough current reliably to effectively replace the neutral wire in a split phase residential power application. If it did, the utilities would skip the neutral.

When I lost my neutral I even tried watering the yard between the house and the pole. -It did not help a bit. :spit:
 

MrMark

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http://ecmweb.com/grounding/electric_shocking_truth_grounding/
Did you read this one about open neutrals?

It clearly says ground flowing the current an open neutral and owner might not know it.

(I am not really trying to be obnoxious on this, but if someone says grounds dont flow current when a trade magazine says it does, who would you believe?)

You have to realize that all the houses are bonded together through the metal piping system (the water main). A ground fault at one house that cannot be cleared because of a problem with an open neutral at that house will try to return to its source, i.e., the power company. So what happens?

The current travels through the ground path at the faulty house back through the neutral and ground buss bars (which are bonded together at the main) and down the ground rod which is bonded to the cold water piping and maybe even the gas piping. Now that fault current will flow through the water main and down the street and find its closest path home, so to speak. That path is probably the next house, where the current will go through the water pipe, up the ground rod, through the neutral buss in the panel and back to the pole on the neutral wire.

An appreciable amount of current isn't flowing through the ground.

Can you point out where the article states that current is flowing through the soil of the earth?
 

MrMark

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I just scanned that article and it looks authoritative. I believe you will find it consistent with what Torque and MRB have been saying. I will definitely want to study this article carefully when I have time. Thanks for posting it.
 

mrb

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You have to realize that all the houses are bonded together through the metal piping system (the water main). A ground fault at one house that cannot be cleared because of a problem with an open neutral at that house will try to return to its source, i.e., the power company. So what happens?

The current travels through the ground path at the faulty house back through the neutral and ground buss bars (which are bonded together at the main) and down the ground rod which is bonded to the cold water piping and maybe even the gas piping. Now that fault current will flow through the water main and down the street and find its closest path home, so to speak. That path is probably the next house, where the current will go through the water pipe, up the ground rod, through the neutral buss in the panel and back to the pole on the neutral wire.

An appreciable amount of current isn't flowing through the ground.

Can you point out where the article states that current is flowing through the soil of the earth?

there will be *some* current on the GEC, but not much, and not enough to clear a fault or save your electronics. Another common path it takes is through the CATV line.
 

MrMark

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The other thing I will just point out is the notion of a current divider. Current flows along different paths according to the resistance of the path. I could post the formula but its not that important, just the concept. In the examples above, the earth is a tremendous resistance (depending on the distance between the ground rod and the nearest transformer with a ground rod it may be a huge number) while the metal piping system is a relatively small resistance. This means that most of the current will flow back through the metal piping (if that path exists) and almost none will flow through the earth. But some will. It may be milliamps.

If the water pipe path does not present then we are left with the earth path and its huge resistance. What happens? Again, some current will flow, but it will not be much because of the large resistance, certainly not enough to trip a 15 amp breaker. It would depend on soil conditions, moisture level and distance between ground rods (the one at the house and the one at the transformer).
 

oldgoat

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Probably already gone over, but tripping the main breaker doesn't insure that the lineman still won't get shocked. A friend of mine is a longtime lineman for the power company and a journeyman electrican says that guys have still gotten shocked. The only safe way is a disconnect switch. Some rual areas stil have a disconnect switch on the pole that you can throw, but the main breaker in the box isn't a sure thing.
 

sdowney717

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Found some more sliding interlocks for panels.

GE has something
http://www.geindustrial.com/cwc/Dispatcher?REQUEST=PRODUCTS&pnlid=7&famid=16&catid=9987&id=gik

With PowerMark Gold ® Meter Socket Load Center Generator Interlock Kits, there is no need for a separate generator panel. The kit contains everything needed to make an existing meter socket load center a generator panel. It's quick. It's easy. It saves time and money.


And Cutler-Hammer has one as well.
http://www.interlockkit.com/InstrK9210NewDsn.pdf

This manual provides instructions for safe installation of the InterLock Kit onto a
Cutler Hammer CH-Series feed through or main lug type panel with ¾ inch breaker
style. The back plate sits securely on the face of the panel cover while allowing the front
plate to slide between the main and generator breaker positions. The InterLock Kit will
only allow one of these breakers to be in the “ON” position meeting the requirements of
Article 702 of the National Electric Code ANSI/NFPA 70. The installation of the breaker
retaining strap meets Article 408.36 (NEC 2008).
 

sdowney717

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but the main breaker in the box isn't a sure thing.
If someone switches hots and neutrals on the genset, mis wiring them, perhaps could happen. Any old fool can slap something together and make it work improperly, car, plane, train or electrical stuff.
 

oldgoat

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True and it has been a couple of years since we had talked about it, but I seem to remember that he talked about the design or something of some of the main breakers. Either way I don't see taking the chance of hurting or maybe killing someone that is trying to restore yours or someone elses service. Found this article and maybe it is what my friend was talking about, but might be informative to others.

http://www.hal-pc.org/EmergencyBackupPower.pdf

The old breaker box I had in my house up until a few years ago was one of these split breaker boxes. My friend says that back in those days ( 1950's) the belief was that the homeowner wouldn't mess with the 220 circuits so they weren't protected by the main breaker. My mine breaker was in the middle of the box, but it had several 110 circuits above it. So evidently the thinking of the homeowner not messing with 220 wan't a sound ideal.
 
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tcianci

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Not to beat a dead horse. Oh who am I kidding :deadhorse beat away.

Sorry, but this is a very important thing to let people know. As stated above if you do not cut the main breaker you will energize the transformer and a large portion of the high voltage grid. So it is not just isolated to your transformer, and could easily kill a careless lineman miles away.

I think you have already made the decision to do it the right way. I think this is best as it is very easy to forget to do something as small as flip the main.

Tom

While it is obviously EXTREMELY IMPORTANT to follow the rules and not endanger anyone, Can someone explain how your average household generator, when connected to the grid has the energy (watts) to maintain its output when presented to a nearly infinite load? When I went to school...last I remember, the electrical distribution system has all the connected loads in parallel. You would have to have a generator capable of producing a few hundred KW before it could even begin to power the grid when presented with that much of a load. In reality, a household generator attempting to "power up" the neighborhood will instantly overload and trip its protection device. The output of your generator would be attempting to power any loads on the seconday side of the transformer as well as the secondary of the transformer itself. I am proposing that this load would essentially look like a dead short to the output of your generator especially considering the inductive component of the load posed by the seconday winding of the distribution transformer. Comments please.
 
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Torque1st

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The danger comes when the line is interrupted and that infinite load is not present. This can come about due to damage or wiring changes during repairs. It is highly unlikely that it would strike some lineman miles away but Murphy really likes to mess with us. It is much more likely to hit a tired and careless lineman working on your service or your neighborhood. The fact that it has happened makes it something to avoid.
 

sdowney717

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I was reading somewhere linemen either 'ground' or 'short' all conductors or treat them as hots.
I would think the idea that lines could be hot and deadly would be deeply ingrained in their souls.
All I can think is these accidents are either because they are very tired, a moment of carelessness, or even 'suicide by powerline' where emotionally your gone over the edge and want to end it all and let your family collect the insurance money.
 

green.bubbly

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Thanks Charles. I am currently waiting on a response from SLEMCO to see if they approve of and install this product. With the frequent hurricanes and tropical storms, I was considering a whole house generator setup.

Then the costs started climbing with the transfer switches and all the extra wires feeding back into my panel and I decided against it yesterday. This would be absolutely perfect if I can use it. No extra wires or boxes to my panel and no more extension cords running throughout the house.

I can now upgrade my portable generator to something a little beefier than what I currently have and hook it up quickly and safely. My meter will be under a covered porch/patio cover which is where I could park my generator when in use

:thumbup:
 

Jarcese

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I was reading somewhere linemen either 'ground' or 'short' all conductors or treat them as hots.
I would think the idea that lines could be hot and deadly would be deeply ingrained in their souls.
All I can think is these accidents are either because they are very tired, a moment of carelessness, or even 'suicide by powerline' where emotionally your gone over the edge and want to end it all and let your family collect the insurance money.

Yes lines are tested, grounded, and treated as if they were live to an extent. I don't know of any place where you would install rubber or use hot sticks where something is grounded. If you were treating a wire down as if it were live you would have to install an in-line disconnect on the break it the wire, close it, sleeve the wire, then open and remove the disconnent, and finally close the fuse or switch. Does that make sense to do that? Not at all.

Personal grounds are used for tripping protective devices. Current has to go to ground before it trips a device and current takes any and all paths to ground and that could include the person who has his rubber gloves on who is standing next to a grounded phase ready to pick it up when you backfeed because you don't give a **** about codes and he dies from step potential. That phase WILL be energized for a split second before the device trips no matter how many grounds are applied.

How about another scenario where somebody goes to hook up what should be a dead house side of a service that isn't attached to a pole and they get electrocuted because you're backfeeding and they don't know enough to listen for a generator. That scenario is even more likely seeing as how utilitlies will use meter readers or underground workers to hook up house sides until the lineman can get back to hook up the pole side during major storms.

Another even more likely scenario is that a phase is down on your sreet and the fuse is blown and you decide you want to try out your jury rigged generator hookup because your lights are more important that other people lives and a pedestrian walking into step potential and dies. Very likely and every lineman I know that has been around for a substantial amount of time has a story about getting backfeed from a generator.

Bottom line is you're an inconsiderate ******* if you think hooking up a generator against code is ok(not the guy I quoted, but the people who do these stupid things) and it's nobody elses fault when they get hurt from it.

All the people that said in this post that it's the linemans fault for getting hurt when you backfeed are assholes. You're the same type of people who would crash your car into someone while you were drunk and blame the other person for not wearing a seatbelt.

Oh and the last sentence of the quoted texted is the dumbest thing I have seen somebody write in a long time. You should be ashamed of yourself whether that's a joke or not. More people get severely hurt or die trying just trying to keep your lights on than you know about and you do them a severe disservice by saying dumb **** like that.

I like to read this forum more than post anything but I couldn't help but rant a little after seeing the stupid comments so you can ignore me if you don't think I have enough posts to speak in here. Also, I can't believe how many times people have said is this thread that it is not only wrong, but illegal, yet DIY'res still think they know better than the people who know FACTS about electrical code and theory. Killing someone with backfeed is criminal neglegence and you will go to jail for it as well as paying that poor man or woman's family back for the rest of you life.

Also if you want to read a little more on about how lineman feel about homeowner backfeed, go to the Powerlineman.com forums and surf around a little bit. Hard to read because a majority of the guys talk in slang and run-on sentences but it may change how you feel about generators backfeeding.
 
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