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backyard garage compressor/airline setup

hubbell

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Feb 16, 2017
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So ive been trying to search for some answers but havent had any luck, mainly because everyone has a different setup. I doubt im looking to buy anything new, relatively planning to use what i have. idealy, i want to use air tools and have them oiled and also use my blast cabinet along with some automotive painting and powder coating. my garage isnt as nice or a large as some of the ones ive seen on here but for now im happy to have it.

Here is the rundown: 60 gallon tank with HF compressor on it (original pump died) here is the HF pump: http://www.harborfreight.com/145-psi-5-hp-twin-cylinder-air-compressor-pump-67698.html
compressor_zpse92vacoi.jpg


I have also picked up an 80 gallon air tank Im hoping to utilize as extra air storage. im concerned if i need to add another pump on it or if my current pump will handle both tanks, input would be appreciated.
tank%2080%20gallon_zpsp3dfoyrk.jpg


I have the following items not hooked up yet but im looking for what order to put them in.

aftercooler https://www.grainger.com/product/4U...0957!&ef_id=V-7uJgAAACvy7j51:20170217013926:s do i need to add a fan to it?

devilbiss qc3 desiccant filter
qc3_zpszsqy0ag0.jpg

HF compressed air dryer link: http://www.harborfreight.com/compressed-air-dryer-40211.html

devilbiss finishline HAR-602 regulator/5 micron filter
devilbiss_zpsoyxsq7hw.jpg


SMC AMG550C-N06 Water Separator
41aKjv89LL._SY445__zpsxwayfqvi.jpg


ARO C38231-600-VS Air Filter-Regulator-Lubricator Combination, 3/8" NPT
lubricator_zps6divhmcg.jpg


also have 3/4 rapidair airline to get it all hooked up.
51EA94vT0qL._SY300__zpsbvonqvvi.jpg


would appreciate input from those of you know who know what youre doing because honestly i dont but hoping to learn and i know the right setup is a good start, hopefully im close to the right direction. im trying to use one hose reel for airtools needing oil and one that will be used solely for paint, the blast cabinet i would like to plumb in directly with a shutoff valve.
thank you in advance!

couple of pics of where ive gotten to so far:

20151206_154651_zpsjgebxlya.jpg


20170210_234021_zpspu433mxm.jpg
 
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md21722

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The setup become a 5 HP / 140 gallon setup. The extra 80 gallon tank, plumbed in series, will drop a ton of water out of your system. So you take the tank outlet of the 60 and feed that into the top of the 80 gallon, and then use the side outlet of your 80 gallon to feed your air system. The HF 5 HP compressor is surely cheap, and lists no duty cycle, but filling an extra tank is surely no harder than doing a bunch of sand blasting, so go for it. Pull ball valves on both the inlet and outlet of the 80 gallon. You can ditch the check valve if you want. Remember to drain the 80 gallon tank. I have street T's with a long ****** and ball valve at the end of all my tanks.
 
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hubbell

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thanks for the quick reply, was also wondering about using the 80 as a dry air holding tank after all the filters, any thoughts about this option?
sort of like this:

Figure%202_0_zpsyvhvtice.png


I still dont know what order to put which filter or i have the wrong ones....
 

jloehlein

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Location
Richmond, VA
I think you have more filters and driers than you need. The aftercooler goes between the pump and the tank. I'd put your water separator as far from the tank outlet, but before any air outlets/hose reels. I'd use one of the filters for painting and one for the blast cabinet. I'm not a fan of lubricators, but I'd stick that on whichever hose reel you'll be using all your air tools that need lubrication. You do not want the lubricator feeding into your paint gun or blast cabinet.

I've got a 7.5hp compressor with an aftercooler on it. I have a water separator right after the tank outlet, which I have heard is not ideal (too close), and then I've got a loop of 3/4" copper running around the perimeter of my shop with the air drops coming out of the top of the loop. Each air drop has a drain leg and I've never gotten any water out of any of them. Every few months I get a few teaspoons of water out of my water separator. It's not much. I have an auto drain on my air tank and get plenty of water out of it. I think the aftercooler condenses most of the water out before it can get into the air lines.

I also paint a little bit and use the QC3 filter/drier to plug my air hose for paint into. I only use the filter/drier for the paint gun. I have never had an issue with moisture in the paint. I use 3/8" open flow fittings (these) and a 1/2" air hose for painting.

These diagrams may be helpful. If you want to use the HF air dryer, the second diagram looks like it would be useful.
 
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hubbell

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thanks for the reply, i think its supposed to go aftercooler then water separator from what ive found. after that im still kind of fuzzy. i did find those diagrams you posted, thank you, it doesnt have aftercooler in it so im not too sure. still hoping someone can make me a layout who maybe does this for a living or who uses prefessional equipment and can get as close as possible. thanks again for the replies!
 
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hubbell

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looking at the other diagram i posted with the twin air tanks, maybe the way to go is to follow it as best as possible. so:
pump
to
aftercooler
to separator
to
60 gallon tank
to
devilbiss finishline 5 micron filter/regulator
to
HF dryer
to
QC3 desiccant
to
check valve into 80 gallon tank
split to two lines:
line a: check valved and shut off valve oiler
line b: paint gun

does that seem right? not sure if the regulator/5micron is in the right place or any other suggestions. thank you!
 

jloehlein

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Location
Richmond, VA
I wouldn't use the Devilbiss filters for your whole air system, only use them at the points you need (paint and blast cabinet). I've attached a suggested layout for folks to react to.
 

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md21722

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You can scrap half those parts if you get a high temp electric air dryer.

My setup is 2 x 5 HP Champion R-15 pumps, no after coolers. One sits on a 120 gallon tank, the other sits on a 60. I have 25 feet of line from each, to a 60 gallon tank, and off of that to 5 micron Parker coalescing filter/regulator. I get zero condensate at my high flow grinders, even after the compressors have been running for 45 minutes straight. I get almost zero from the coalescing filter either.

Previously, I had both compressors & the extra 60 gallon tank T'd together right before filter/regulator. I got water in the coalescing filter & at the tool exhaust.

Since you don't have an after cooler, consider the extra tank doing all that work for you. Put the desiccant on the blaster/paint line if you need dryer. If you put it too soon in the system, you will end up going through desiccant fast.

You don't need process/lab grade air for what you're doing with heated desiccant dryers, etc...

As sberry says no need to go aerospace here.
 
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hubbell

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I wouldn't use the Devilbiss filters for your whole air system, only use them at the points you need (paint and blast cabinet). I've attached a suggested layout for folks to react to.

thank you for the suggestion, i like your layout if i run both tanks prefilters. im not sure if its better this way or with the larger tank post filter as "dry air storage" maybe its just personal preference? also, from what ive seen, i would add the aftercooler before the separator.

I also see the point about not running all air through the desiccant qc3 because it will require more frequent filter media changing and to maybe only run the qc3 for painting purposes.

Im also assuming i need the devilbiss finishline to be inline for painting purposes to control the pressure going to the gun and the gun may have a final pressure adjuster at the base of the gun. so that being said, im thinking the finishline exit being split with one leg going to the blast cabinet and one leg continuing on to the qc3 for painting.

Thank you for the compliment, i am thankful for the space, it has taken me a while to get it to this space and as always, there are those with bigger and better on here which im blown away by but certainly glad to have my garage as well, maybe one day ill get something bigger but more than content for now.

Additionally, just picked up the 80 gallon tank and man is that thing heavy. was hoping to put it in the attic space of the garage but getting it up there is going to be quite the feat, not really sure if its going to happen.
 
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md21722

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I looked at the pictures, not the links so I missed some of your parts including the air dryer.

On 60 gallon air compressor, pump -> after cooler -> optional basic water separator -> tank.

Tank -> coalescing filter/air dryer loop -> 80 gallon tank in series -> rest of your system.

This way if you aren't running the air dryer, or using more air than your air dryer can effectively condition, you still get the benefit of air cooling/moisture catch through the 80 gallon tank.

The after cooler at the compressor will help out big time.
 
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hubbell

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sorry to be so newb but.....coalescing filter....do i have one? looked it up but seems to be a broad term or hard for me to pin down exactly....kind of feeling a bit dumb over here, lol. thanks again for the replies!

i am leaning towards the second tank as dry/semi-dry storage like you mentioned and can then direct air from it to different airlines with more drying or oil needs in mind.
 

md21722

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sorry to be so newb but.....coalescing filter....do i have one? looked it up but seems to be a broad term or hard for me to pin down exactly....kind of feeling a bit dumb over here, lol. thanks again for the replies!

i am leaning towards the second tank as dry/semi-dry storage like you mentioned and can then direct air from it to different airlines with more drying or oil needs in mind.

The SMC would be the coalescing filter. It drops water out by a coalescing action.
 

The Tool Tyrant

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Bonita, Ca. (San Diego)
First off, what is the relative humidity where your compressor is located? The level of airborne water filtration needed is in direct relation to the relative humidity.

md21722 has very good points regarding the piggybacking of your tanks...and is a cost effective alternative to adding a bunch of filters. Analyze your situation and filter accordingly. I am a big advocate of air-cooled after-coolers and find they are very effective in removing moisture...actually a more true statement is they are very effective in transforming water 'vapor' into droplets in which make their way to the bottom of the receiver and can be easily removed by a tank drain. :drool:
 
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hubbell

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we get very hot and humid summers here, winter the humidity is low, im just outside of washington dc.
 

Jeff Ivers

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I would not use that oiler unless it is the last thing before you attach air tools. If you use it upstream of your piping, you will affect any success you could ever have painting. Personally, I have an in-line oiler with quick connects on both ends that I snap onto my hose just before my air tool. That way, I know that none of my piping or hoses are contaminated with oil. I have an oil separator just after my compressor and before my airlines.
 
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hubbell

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yes oiler would be last and only used on the air wrench hose reel, that part is for certain.
 

jloehlein

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Richmond, VA
Im also assuming i need the devilbiss finishline to be inline for painting purposes to control the pressure going to the gun and the gun may have a final pressure adjuster at the base of the gun.

The QC3 comes with a regulator and gauge. I'd be interested in hearing if others have any thoughts on running the Finishline filter into the QC3 and then tee-ing them off to the paint gun and blast cabinet versus using the QC3 for painting and the Finishline filter for blasting. If you're running the HF air dryer, you may not even need anything on the blast cabinet?
 
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hubbell

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i might (probably) run them where the finishline is filtering for blast cabinet and the qc3 is doing additional filtering for painting and powdercoating. i might even just run the finishline with no regulator into the blast cabinet (ive never reduced pressure into the cabinet anyway and its always been fine) if i do this i can use the qc3 to regulate air for painting/powdercoating.
 
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hubbell

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one more question, tried to ask on another thread but no response. so putting the 80 gallon "dry air storage tank" in the attic as i plan to, will it be an issue for when it gets hot in the summer? the attic has 2 vents in it but obviously it gets hotter up there then in the garage. thanks for all the help!
 
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