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Bad concrete pour. Next step?

krcoomer

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Jul 22, 2016
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379
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Bluegrass region
Brightside is you will now have the opportunity to get some plastic under the next slab as a vapor barrier. Do it. You want it.



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The man speaks the truth. I wish I could go back 40 years and tell whoever poured my slab to put plastic under the slab and to not set the first course of block below grade.
 
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doctordirt

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May 15, 2014
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492
Yes, it can be fixed easily. Tear it out and repour the concrete. The longer the crete sets the harder it gets.
 

krcoomer

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Jul 22, 2016
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Bluegrass region
The first course of block not below grade because of moisture?

My 24X24 is concrete block (CBU) and on 2 sides the first course of block is below grade. I am going to have the pleasure of digging it out, cleaning the block and slab and figuring out how to waterproof it and change the drainage. Otherwise a good rain or a few days of moderate rain turns my floor into a pond. Someday I will start a thread and share the details.
 

Radix2

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the thumb!, MI
My 24X24 is concrete block (CBU) and on 2 sides the first course of block is below grade. I am going to have the pleasure of digging it out, cleaning the block and slab and figuring out how to waterproof it and change the drainage. Otherwise a good rain or a few days of moderate rain turns my floor into a pond. Someday I will start a thread and share the details.

I think it might be less confusing to say "slab below grade" rather than block. Obviously block is used all the time below grade when it is used to build foundation walls. The issue comes when the floor level is set below the grade on the outside of the block and there is insufficient drainage. You get the same issue with poured foundations.
 

royalton10

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Oct 19, 2007
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247
Location
Lancaster, Ohio
My gut feeling is to have him remove it all, fix the yard and driveway, and refund our money. On the other hand I've had an extremely hard time finding a builder that would even return my calls. I've been trying to get this shop built for four months.

One of the hardest things to realize is that cannot force bad deals to work.

Have the contractor ripe it out and get your money back. Walk away from this contractor. If you let this guy complete the build you will be regretting it all the days you have this property.
 

Dr Stan

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Nov 17, 2016
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496
Location
Owensboro, KY
My 24X24 is concrete block (CBU) and on 2 sides the first course of block is below grade. I am going to have the pleasure of digging it out, cleaning the block and slab and figuring out how to waterproof it and change the drainage. Otherwise a good rain or a few days of moderate rain turns my floor into a pond. Someday I will start a thread and share the details.

I had a similar problem with my shop on one corner, but it is a monolithic pour. I dug a small trench for some guttering covered by expanded metal and PVC 2" pipe along the short side of the shop. This enabled me to direct the downspout into the guttering. I then ran it into a plastic barrel with a sump pump in the bottom. The pump shoots the water away from the shop solving the issue.
 

krcoomer

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Jul 22, 2016
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Bluegrass region
Radix 2: Thanks for helping me clarify the error in construction.

Dr Stan: Thanks for the advice. If I understand you have set your garage up like a basement with the sump pump. I may have to go that route someday. I believe I am going to dig it down to bottom of slab/footer (God only knows what they put in), clean it and use some form of waterproofing, likely a combination of Drylok, roof cement (tar) poly and 1/4" styrofoam to above grade with a piece of flashing in a z configuration set in place with Sonolastic sealant. After this, I will have need to get the water away, probably via a French drain, but it will have to go about 50' across the minefield known as a water maple's root system. Still cannot go back and put a poly barrier under the slab which would stop the hydrostatic pressure from pushing vapor into the building.

OP: Sorry to have hijacked your thread.
 

Richard Cranium

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Apr 22, 2011
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central Washington
I am happy for you, now I hope that he does haul off the rubble, and fix your yard and refunds your money, But at least it is on its way to be getting fixed. A new start.
 
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NoPressure

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Hazel Green, AL
Man what a turd of a job. Good for you and definitely the right move. He was a dbag for even trying to make an arguement that it could be salvaged.

Even if it was a decent pour I would have big reservations of it being poured on saturated subgrade/stone and would have not kept it anyway. This is a very important first step.

Brightside is you will now have the opportunity to get some plastic under the next slab as a vapor barrier. Do it. You want it.



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There was plastic underneath. One of the few things they didn't screw up.
 

ddawg16

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Jul 11, 2008
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S. California
Just for reference, my slab was done as monolithic with stem walls.....this is how it came out....



Side note....I'm no concrete guy....but even I thought your's look bad....real bad.

Now you have to find another guy.....I'm guessing he is not going to build your garage.
 

SALIV8

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Dec 11, 2008
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chicago and s/w michigan
If you are having trouble finding decent contractors to bid, I would call the local supply houses and see what they each recommend.

Most likely they will know who is good, and theyll get a bone when the contractor orders from them.
 

The Tool Tyrant

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Dec 19, 2011
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Bonita, Ca. (San Diego)
Just for reference, my slab was done as monolithic with stem walls.....this is how it came out....

^^AND it has anchor bolts to boot!

If you are having trouble finding decent contractors to bid, I would call the local supply houses and see what they each recommend.

Most likely they will know who is good, and theyll get a bone when the contractor orders from them.

^^or better yet, ask local framing contractors for recommendations as they have to follow behind the concrete contractors and know good slabs from bad...trust me, I was a framing contractor for 32 years.
 
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NoPressure

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Hazel Green, AL
Just for reference, my slab was done as monolithic with stem walls.....this is how it came out....

Side note....I'm no concrete guy....but even I thought your's look bad....real bad.

Now you have to find another guy.....I'm guessing he is not going to build your garage.

You would guess correctly. A blind man could see that this looks real bad. Thanks for rubbing it in with a picture of yours by the way.
 

HotrodHR

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Nov 22, 2009
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North Alabama
I know who the concrete company is and I'm going to call them Monday to get their side of the story. I would agree with you about it being a separate issue except for the fact that I told the builder TWO different times not to bring a concrete truck out here if we had a substantial amount of rain (which we did, by anybody's standards) that it would need at least two days to dry out. This clusterfudge of concrete in my yard is a direct result of him ignoring my instructions. It's real clear by his attitude that he knows more than everyone and for you to try and tell him anything is a great inconvenience and waste of his time.

In my mind he is the builder these are the people he trusts and ultimately it all comes back on him. He tried to blame the truck driver and the concrete guy. All I kept saying was that none of this would have happened if you hadn't ignored my very clear instructions. He acknowledged that on the recording and got real worked up about it every time I came back to that. It was really getting to him. But hey that's the truth. At one point I asked him so how much is the going to cost you to fix this? He said well idk what we're going to do yet but it's gonna cost me a lot. I said, well I sure could have saved you a lot of time and money if you had just listened to me.

I would keep the fact that you told him not to pour because of the conditions in your back pocket. You don't want him to suggest (in court for example) that you were acting as the general contractor. I would avoid contacting the concrete company... he's the contractor and he is responsible for the subs.

Your issue is with the builder and he deals with his subs. Get him to remove the slab and don't get between whoever he gets to do it (concrete company or anyone else). You don't want to get billed directly from the sub.

BTW, what did the footers and floor area look like before the pour, rebar, gravel and vapor barrier (plastic sheet)?

We built our house with a detached shop in a subdivision in Madison (Huntsville jurisdiction) and the city inspected the house and detach before the pour... surprised Hazel Green doesn't do this... I guess your in the County...
 
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SIX225

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Jan 31, 2016
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Illinois
Although the contractor is supposedly making good on cleaning up the mess and you're going to find someone else, I'd make sure that he or his contractors don't place a lien on you.
 
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NoPressure

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Hazel Green, AL
I would keep the fact that you told him not to pour because of the conditions in your back pocket. You don't want him to suggest (in court for example) that you were acting as the general contractor. I would avoid contacting the concrete company... he's the contractor and he is responsible for the subs.

Your issue is with the builder and he deals with his subs. Get him to remove the slab and don't get between whoever he gets to do it (concrete company or anyone else). You don't want to get billed directly from the sub.

BTW, what did the footers and floor area look like before the pour, rebar, gravel and vapor barrier (plastic sheet)?

We built our house with a detached shop in a subdivision in Madison (Huntsville jurisdiction) and the city inspected the house and detach before the pour... surprised Hazel Green doesn't do this... I guess your in the County...

I told the builder (gc) not to try to bring a concrete trunk out of it was at all wet. I've never spoken to the concrete sub, or anyone else for that matter. I've only dealt with one person, the gc. I ended up not calling the concrete company. I was just curious what their story was as far as when they sent their trucks out.

I don't really know anything about the inspection process. This is the only thing I've ever built, had built. I am in the county though I guess they only inspect it after the pour.
 
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NoPressure

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Although the contractor is supposedly making good on cleaning up the mess and you're going to find someone else, I'd make sure that he or his contractors don't place a lien on you.

When everything is said and done we are signing something stating that we release each other from the previous contract. I assume that prevent either of them from trying to do that?
 

Ed Devinney

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Nov 29, 2006
Messages
68
When everything is said and done we are signing something stating that we release each other from the previous contract. I assume that prevent either of them from trying to do that?

IANAL, but you might want to invest an hour's worth of time with one. There may be very specific language and actions required to cover yourself here.
 

ddawg16

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S. California
You would guess correctly. A blind man could see that this looks real bad. Thanks for rubbing it in with a picture of yours by the way.

LOL....was not trying to rub it in.....just wanted to show the monolithic pour does work.

As for the anchor bolts? Nothing wrong with drill and epoxy. If you have the tools. The time you spend putting the J bolts in the right spot is about the same as drilling the holes.....and as it was, I had a couple that were not right. When I did my addition, I actually had to cut a couple and drill/epoxy new ones.

And....an epoxied bolt is actually stronger than a j bolt. The only thing keeping that J bolt in the hole is the 'J' at the bottom. I've heard of them actually bending and pulling out. Whereas epoxy, the threaded rod has the full depth of the hole to keep it in. Done right, the ***** is not coming out.
 

dpainter68

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Feb 21, 2017
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Huntsville, AL
Let me rephrase. I may sub the concrete out myself and then build it myself lol I have never messed with concrete and wouldn't even attempt to try this.
Did you end up subbing it out or find another GC? I'm from the Huntsville area also and I'm planning on building at least a 24x30. I'm in the process of getting a quote from a few builders. If I need to stay away from any particular ones let me know.
 
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NoPressure

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Hazel Green, AL
Did you end up subbing it out or find another GC? I'm from the Huntsville area also and I'm planning on building at least a 24x30. I'm in the process of getting a quote from a few builders. If I need to stay away from any particular ones let me know.

Any updates?

Forgot about this thread sorry guys. Builder tore up and removed the concrete after it sat in my yard in a huge pile of rubble for about a week. I got my money back. They did spend some time "fixing" the yard but it's still a mess with big ruts and a ton of gravel left over. Hopefully borrowing a tractor this weekend to fix everything once and for all.

I will not be building a shop now. This was the straw that broke the garages back. Took the money we had saved up for the shop and paid off my truck and my wife's car. Sold my cutlass. We now have our first child on the way. If I ever do build a shop I will have to do it myself.
 
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NoPressure

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Hazel Green, AL
That's the best way to build a shop/garage. Contract out the concrete to a good company and do the remainder. Easy way to find one is to ask around at the big box stores.

Yeah I know a guy that is the "go to guy" in the area. He's done the concrete on several of my parents houses. I tried to get him to do the slab for this shop but he was covered up.

I'll wait for him if I ever do build. Probably won't though. We want to buy 5-10 acrea in the future to build on. I'll build my dream shop then.

Plan now is to optimize my attached 2 car. A couple of my racing buddies are looking for a big shop to rent or possibly build together. Big enough for two race cars, two smart cars, a kenworth and stacker trailer, a f350 and 32' trailer, and all the tools and equipment that go along with all that. So getting in on that may be an option.
 
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