Bad luck with Harbor Freight flex heads

[TuxThePenguin]

I'll use my Snap On FHLF80A on passenger car caliper/bracket bolts as long as they aren't crazy rusted. Have had no problems. If it's rusty or something larger (which I don't tend to work on in the first place really) I'll use a 1/2" or a breaker bar. Lug nuts? On a 3/8"? No way. Won't even try.

I dunno. No problems with the flex head on this ratchet. No idea how it compares to other similar ratchets.

My 1/2" ratchet is a Proto/Facom flex head which has also been very good. I can't directly compare it to the S/O I mentioned since they're not the same size.

The idea of being worried about the pin on my ratchet head breaking seems very foreign.

 

[chappys4life]

I use my gearwrench soft grip flex (60 tooth originally) with 84 kit in it to break caliper bolts all the time. Done brakes on old cars to new. Use it all the time as my go to ratchet.

In the last 8 months i have done oil pan change, multiple brake jobs, front suspension rebuild twice on two separate cars. I will say if it seems really strong I will break out a 1/2 ratchet or breaker bar as its more saving my body from trying to hard.

Just upgraded to a Snap On FHLF80A that will probably see more use until I cave and buy a m12 stubby 3/8 (waiting for a good sale)

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I live in AZ, so rust isn't an issue, but I use my flex head bent handle 3/8" Dual 80 on all brake components.

 

[unslow1]

I live in AZ, so rust isn't an issue, but I use my flex head bent handle 3/8" Dual 80 on all brake components.

A lot of those have torque specs of well over 100ftlbs plus the Loctite. Even ones without the rust I don't use a 3/8. I've skinned enough knuckles I prefer to use a breaker bar or large ratchet and still wear gloves.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

A lot of those have torque specs of well over 100ftlbs plus the Loctite. Even ones without the rust I don't use a 3/8. I've skinned enough knuckles I prefer to use a breaker bar or large ratchet and still wear gloves.

Obviously there are exceptions; my F-250 and F-350 have specs north of 100ftlbs, which my little *** isn't pulling on a 10" ratchet. For those the 1/2" ratchets come out, or a breaker bar if I can't get a ratchet head in there.

 

[u118224]

I rarely use 1/2 sockets on a car anymore, except maybe suspension. I use an FL80 and FLL80, usually never have any problems.

 

[M635_Guy]

I almost feel sorry for the OP. By reading the first post it seems obvious that he's fed up with his flex ratchet breaking, has proposed (himself) that he might be willing to go as high up the food chain as Snap-On to have a flex ratchet with more strength.

How do we respond? 20% tell him HF is junk and move on (which he stated he already knows), 20% tell him that the HF flex ratchet is as good as the others on the market (even though he has already broke three of them), 20% chastise him for abusing his flex ratchet when h should have used a breaker bar (even though none of us know how hard it was pushed. We weren't there.) and another 20% delve into a conversation about comparative ratcheting mechanism strength (even though the OP never mentions the ratcheting mechanism).

Seems to me his question is very direct. Are there stronger brands of flex heads available?

Thank God you grace us with your presence to police the responses and ensure he solves a problem he probably doesn't have!

While I hate those test-to-fail videos, this is one of the rare places where the information has use (and it seems to correlate pretty well to the the similar videos).

Net: He's clearly using the wrong tool. Buying a more expensive tool (read: "stronger") is just going to put the edge of failure induced by using the wrong tool slightly farther out.

I'm not a professional wrench, but the guidance/advice/instruction from the wrenches I learned from often boiled down to using the right tool for the job, and using that tool correctly. Failure to do that risks damage to you, the tool, the thing you're working on, or some combination of the three.

If the ANSI spec here is a lowly 150 ft-lb (the HF Pit Pro tested to 245 in the test-to-fail vid), and he's broken three of them, do you really think buying a stronger tool that adds another 55 ft-lb to the equation is the right thing? Or should he replace the tool he already owns and get a decent breaker bar? (aka - a stronger and more proper tool for the job and likely very inexpensive)

I know it's really fun and cool these days to blame the "Chinesium" but sheesh...

 

[dnschmidt]

OK, I'll admit it I'm a lazy ****. Anything over 50 ft-lb I'm whipping out my Milwaukee arsenal of cordless goodness or one of my twenty or so air impacts. Grunting is so uncouth. Besides, nothing sounds better than a good ugga dugga when you're working on your car. It shows you're serious.

 

[setfocus]

I use 1/2" impact, with swivel when necessary, on front bracket bolts. Normally link wrenches to break loose rear bracket bolts or 1/2" ratchet. Then run them out with 3/8" air ratchet, when it fits, or ratcheting wrench.

 

[Rinspeed]

I almost feel sorry for the OP. By reading the first post it seems obvious that he's fed up with his flex ratchet breaking, has proposed (himself) that he might be willing to go as high up the food chain as Snap-On to have a flex ratchet with more strength.

How do we respond? 20% tell him HF is junk and move on (which he stated he already knows), 20% tell him that the HF flex ratchet is as good as the others on the market (even though he has already broke three of them), 20% chastise him for abusing his flex ratchet when h should have used a breaker bar (even though none of us know how hard it was pushed. We weren't there.) and another 20% delve into a conversation about comparative ratcheting mechanism strength (even though the OP never mentions the ratcheting mechanism).

Seems to me his question is very direct. Are there stronger brands of flex heads available?

Whole lot of words with not a lot of substance.

 

[Iowafox]

Like the title says, I'm having a hard time not breaking the long handle flex head ⅜" drive ratchets. Just broke my third one and thinking it's not even worth the hassle of getting it replaced. Are there any other long handle flex head comfort grip ratchets that last? Thinking it's time to just go Snap On even for 10 times the price, but I've heard those break at the pin too.

I've read this entire thread all 3 pages and here is my 2 cents.
If your considering a snapon and think it will be better for you by all means do it!
I personally like my MAC tools 3/8 round head swivel head (made by FACOM) It isn't long though. I have some experience with NAPA carlyle and if you have one close to you I highly suggest getting one of those before you go the truck brand route.
I live in Iowa and even on brake calipers I use a 1/2 to break it loose. I have no idea where you live so rust may or may not be a issue for you. If space is a issue for you and you still need the leverage and only have 3/8 stuff in your junkyard bag. Might I suggest getting a 1/2 breaker bar, a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter and go that route? I had to do that for many years till I got the tool bug and now I have alot of tools lol.
This is just my input did you ask? No do you want it? I am not sure but hopefully this helps you or someone. Good luck regardless!!

 

[Rinspeed]

Thank God you grace us with your presence to police the responses and ensure he solves a problem he probably doesn't have!

Thank you, spot on to what I was trying to say.

 

[BrandoJames]

I would look at willams or gearwrench. My flex 3/8 gearwrench has been abused for years breaking bolts loose

The Williams flex ratchets are still coarse tooth--the Williams flex heads on Amazon are all 36 tooth. I own the Williams S-52EHFA 1/2" Flex, that's a big strong ratchet, but I use it as a mini-breaker bar.

For a fine tooth flex head, I don't think Williams has anything--their 31011 3/8" fixed head ratchet is 60 tooth. For a budget ratchet that's fine tooth flex, I like the Titan flex heads.

 

[WittHay]

My thinking is when a tool breaks you have to find out exactly what that person is working on. Somebody asks how to take off a semi truck tire, you need to know whether its hub piloted, Budd or Dayton. Different sockets sizes and torque values for each.

The OP mentions Volkswagons and caliper bracket bolts. The rear ones use those German special triple squares. They seem to be torqued a lot higher than the book suggests. I own a Mac 13" flex and a Snap-on 18" flex. Two of the better or best ratchets on the market. I hesitate to use them to remove Volkswagen caliper bolts. 3/8 breaker bar to me seems stronger and works better.

Even if the OP buys one of the most expensive 3/8 flex ratchets , he still might have to use a pipe for more leverage. I would recommend trying a HF Icon breaker bar first for occasional junkyard tough or unusual use. For a step up from HF flex ratchet, I have a Gearwrench 84T 3/8 flex and its been great. You dont really need to spend tool truck dollars for "normal" use

 

[MaximRecoil]

Yeah, that aligns with the results of the tests that "ClientGraphics" did. He tested 18 different brands of 3/8"-drive ratchets and they all failed at between 206 and 300 foot pounds of torque. I've attached his chart showing the results below. The links to his videos are:

Part 1 -

Part 2 -

For people who don't have the spare time, or would rather not watch two long videos, I'll point out that the strongest flex-head ratchet in his tests was the Kobalt 90-tooth which failed at 286 foot pounds (direct link to that particular test), and it wasn't the flex joint that failed, but rather, the drive anvil sheared off (no 3/8" drive anvil in existence can make it much past 300 foot pounds without shearing off). So that's pretty close to the maximum possible strength for a 3/8"-drive anything, regardless of whether it's a flex-head ratchet, fixed-head ratchet, breaker bar, ell handle, sliding T-handle, or whatever.

For the record, the same guy also tested some 3/8"-drive breaker bars, and the best showing was from an Icon that failed at 279.4 foot pounds. It, and all the others he tested, failed by shearing off the drive anvil:

 

[Mr_B]

^
pretty much the point, a half decent 3/8 flexi won't break the joint and you got beef on them pretty hard shear the anvil or slip the teeth .
I not bust one and I use them daily on anything from brakes to engine mounts/brackets in tight space and not broke one as of yet, I like MAC and the carlyle and carlyle flexi ratchets as listed in previous post is good tool & real value at the deal prices .
Pitts pro flexi is piss poor option if want push torque towards 200 on a 3/8 flexi .
Both Pits Pro or ICON brand flexi ratchets fall short of being good or even good value as lot of very decent ratchet offerings out there at close price point .

 

[OHMS LAW]

I’ve used a 3/8 Long flex head on caliper bolts never an issue. You don’t need snap on. Unless you want it. In that case get one. Just use anything better than HF

 

[Fedwrench]

I'm visiting this thread again just out of sheer masochistic tendencies

Tekton offers an 18 inch long 3/8 drive breaker bar. What is different about this one compared to other long 3/8 drive breaker bars on the market is that the bar stock is the same as a 1/2 drive breaker bar. Now, i'm not sure if the 3/8 drive head will be a weak spot prone to failure but, this might give you the strength you need without having to lug 1/2 drive stuff around at the junk yard.

https://www.tekton.com/breaker-bars?quantity=1&drive-size=3-8-in&length=18-in

 

[MaximRecoil]

I'm visiting this thread again just out of sheer masochistic tendencies

Tekton offers an 18 inch long 3/8 drive breaker bar. What is different about this one compared to other long 3/8 drive breaker bars on the market is that the bar stock is the same as a 1/2 drive breaker bar. Now, i'm not sure if the 3/8 drive head will be a weak spot prone to failure but, this might give you the strength you need without having to lug 1/2 drive stuff around at the junk yard.

https://www.tekton.com/breaker-bars?quantity=1&drive-size=3-8-in&length=18-in

Most ordinary 3/8" breaker bars, and many 3/8" ratchets, are already strong enough that the failure point is the 3/8" drive anvil shearing off. On the best ones it happens up around 300 foot pounds, which is well beyond what most people would use a 3/8" drive for. Typical lug nuts for example, are usually only torqued to somewhere in the neighborhood of 100 foot pounds, and most people use a 1/2" drive for those.

The OP's ratchets have been failing at the flex-head joint, so if he wants to continue using a flex-head 3/8" ratchet, he just needs to get one that's stronger than the 3/8" drive anvil itself. They exist, and they aren't necessarily expensive.