nandomart
Well-known member
A neighbor and I are interested in bagging a trailer. I have searched the net and have not found anything that can guide us. Anyone every bag a trailer?
Bagging(air bag) a utility trailer.
- Thread starter nandomart
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six-T-seven
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leaf or coil?
if it is a leaf spring, then you can remove leafs and mount the bag over the leaf springs. it's call an "air over leaf" system (AOL)
if it is a coil spring, then you can remove the coil and bolt the bag in place of the coil spring.
if it is a leaf spring, then you can remove leafs and mount the bag over the leaf springs. it's call an "air over leaf" system (AOL)
if it is a coil spring, then you can remove the coil and bolt the bag in place of the coil spring.
I would actually like to have the trailer drop to the ground complete. Ideally it would allow the loading of a car or 4wheeler with out ramps. I was assuming that it would need a some kind of independent suspension..since the trailers axles wont allow for that to happen.
shanker
Well-known member
definitely a novelty Idea...but I would suggest buying a Texas Rollback if you want to load w/o ramps
if you want a trailer to go all the way to the ground, you'll have to four link it and cantilver the air springs...similar to the KP Components kits that they use on trucks.
I dont have a clue how you'd do a tandem axle trailer though
if you want a trailer to go all the way to the ground, you'll have to four link it and cantilver the air springs...similar to the KP Components kits that they use on trucks.
I dont have a clue how you'd do a tandem axle trailer though
Lotek
Well-known member
You are going to need to be able to isolate the bags from each other, either with solenoids or manual valves, onboard air tank wouldn't be a bad idea. You going to rig it into the truck's air system?
tatra
Well-known member
around here there's a coupla construction trailers used for moving their vibratory rollers thjat have a unique air bag set up that i can only describe as similar to the old gmc motorhome air ride suspension.........when fully deflate it sits right on the ground ........and these trailers must work for them as i have seen them used for a lot of years..........
MP&C
Well-known member
Triple L makes a nice drop deck trailer, made for moving scissor lifts and other eqpt. I've borrowed one locally from a guy to move a Lennox nibbler and a southbend lathe. Works awesome.
http://www.racingjunk.com/category/50/New_Trailers/post/2208868/JLG-TRIPLE-L-Model-7610-Drop-Deck-TRAILER.html
http://www.racingjunk.com/category/50/New_Trailers/post/2208868/JLG-TRIPLE-L-Model-7610-Drop-Deck-TRAILER.html
Steve from Socal
Well-known member
There is a company that makes axleless suspension for trucks and trailers that what you are looking for, it is really expensive but perhaps you could copy the basic elements. Their web site is not what it used to be, seems like they may be on the verge of collapse? Anyway the company is Dallas Smith Corporation
Steve
Steve
DatsunLover
Well-known member
diesel research
Well-known member
I suppose it's feasible to build a swing arm type control arm with axle stub welded to it. That should be left so someone who knows what they are doing. Essentially a "1 link"
I am not sure how the pivot should be secured to prevent lateral forces and wobbling that a bushing would allow. (unless it was a solid bushing) or a double-tapered bearing set up (similar to a 2nd spindle but at the pivot end. Not sure if that is ok idea either since the limited swing arc may tend to wear one spot more than others? Perhaps a solid bushing may be more ideal.
We have some bagged tankers but their suspension requirements are a LOT different since they don't "lay frame" and have a solid axle between them. They source air from the emergency brake system, and almost seem to react when applying brakes. Strange feeling but never paid attention to how it works since I have only encountered them twice. First time was when I could not remove a tire since the wheels were tucked up into the wheel wells, until the emergency line was charged.
I am not sure how the pivot should be secured to prevent lateral forces and wobbling that a bushing would allow. (unless it was a solid bushing) or a double-tapered bearing set up (similar to a 2nd spindle but at the pivot end. Not sure if that is ok idea either since the limited swing arc may tend to wear one spot more than others? Perhaps a solid bushing may be more ideal.
We have some bagged tankers but their suspension requirements are a LOT different since they don't "lay frame" and have a solid axle between them. They source air from the emergency brake system, and almost seem to react when applying brakes. Strange feeling but never paid attention to how it works since I have only encountered them twice. First time was when I could not remove a tire since the wheels were tucked up into the wheel wells, until the emergency line was charged.
Griff93
Well-known member
I think its a good idea. I looked at doing it several years ago and really didn't come up with a good way to do it. Let us know if you come up with something that works.
Lotek
Well-known member
Why not use an a-arm setup, might make the track too wide, but you could use off the shelf parts.
For ideas, take a look at Lowriser Trailers, Power Deck Trailers, or something like this.
I've seen some of what you're looking for but, at the moment, I cannot find it. I'll give another look, later.
I've seen some of what you're looking for but, at the moment, I cannot find it. I'll give another look, later.
Flatland Dave
Well-known member
You might look into what kind of suspension they are using on the big ice fishing houses.
The smaller ones use a red neck version similar to the motorcycle trailer pic.
The smaller ones use a red neck version similar to the motorcycle trailer pic.
diesel research
Well-known member
A swing arm is going to be the easiest way to achieve enough articulation or drop and still maintain suspension geometry.
An a-arm type has constantly changing camber so the camber will only be correct at 1 height. All other heights will produce undesired positive or negative camber.
That is ok if the suspension is only changing when hitting a bump, not so ok when it is contantly rolling at a different height. Then you would want some kind of load proportioning air valve to maintain a set height under various loads. More hassle. My car has 4 way air suspension and those load valves. They require maintenance. I do find it "neat" that the OE decided to put a 3 way valve down on the floor board including a "rough terrain" position. Even then, excess tire wear will occur if operating in that position for any length of time. Same if operated in the "dumped" position. Then again, bigger problems like oil pan wear would occur much quicker.
That's not to mention excess ball joint wear and many additional bushings required for a double a-arm. You have atleast 4 bushings and 2 ball joints per wheel....as opposed to only a single bushing on a swing arm.
________________________________
Here are some example stub axles to consider
$18 1,750lb cap ea Standard hub/bearing provisions. No brake/backing plate provisions. 8" long, 1.75" diameter (part to be welded)
If that 1.75" hole was bored into your square tube "swing arm" and precisely welded, you might be good to go. Needs to be square or you will end up with all kinds of alignment problems. Take it to a professional to be jigged and squared.
Another one of these (or similar) can be used on trailer frame end to serve as pivot. Provided you supply proper bearings and hub housing. Or it could be bushed.
Here is a different model for $30 with brake provisions
An a-arm type has constantly changing camber so the camber will only be correct at 1 height. All other heights will produce undesired positive or negative camber.
That is ok if the suspension is only changing when hitting a bump, not so ok when it is contantly rolling at a different height. Then you would want some kind of load proportioning air valve to maintain a set height under various loads. More hassle. My car has 4 way air suspension and those load valves. They require maintenance. I do find it "neat" that the OE decided to put a 3 way valve down on the floor board including a "rough terrain" position. Even then, excess tire wear will occur if operating in that position for any length of time. Same if operated in the "dumped" position. Then again, bigger problems like oil pan wear would occur much quicker.
That's not to mention excess ball joint wear and many additional bushings required for a double a-arm. You have atleast 4 bushings and 2 ball joints per wheel....as opposed to only a single bushing on a swing arm.
________________________________
Here are some example stub axles to consider
$18 1,750lb cap ea Standard hub/bearing provisions. No brake/backing plate provisions. 8" long, 1.75" diameter (part to be welded)
If that 1.75" hole was bored into your square tube "swing arm" and precisely welded, you might be good to go. Needs to be square or you will end up with all kinds of alignment problems. Take it to a professional to be jigged and squared.
Another one of these (or similar) can be used on trailer frame end to serve as pivot. Provided you supply proper bearings and hub housing. Or it could be bushed.
Here is a different model for $30 with brake provisions
machine_punk
Well-known member
there is a drop deck trailer on the miller welds site that looks interesting...
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/communities/mboard/showthread.php?12361-Drop-Deck-Trailer
and a commercial drop deck trailer here, about 2/3rds the way down thw page...
http://www.seawayscaffold.com/Products.aspx
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/communities/mboard/showthread.php?12361-Drop-Deck-Trailer
and a commercial drop deck trailer here, about 2/3rds the way down thw page...
http://www.seawayscaffold.com/Products.aspx
78Bird
Well-known member
If you used equal size A-arms, the camber wouldn't change, no matter the height.
Can be done.
Using long swing arms would work too.
Can be done.
Using long swing arms would work too.