Lyndon
Well-known member
That made me laugh out loud.....
I do that too.
In fact, SWMBO is out, so I might go do a load now.Lyndon
Hot as all get out in Sydney
Above 1200 Sq/FT Bailey's Barn Build
- Thread starter mwbailey
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
That made me laugh out loud.....
I do that too.
In fact, SWMBO is out, so I might go do a load now.Lyndon
Hot as all get out in Sydney
Sorry about the heat, Lyndon -- we're pretty warm this December in parts of the Northern Hemisphere, too!
Besides getting rid of the aroma in the dryer, I had to remove the "quilt" of lint in the filter to make sure I didn't leave any evidence of using the NEW dryer. . . .
Besides getting rid of the aroma in the dryer, I had to remove the "quilt" of lint in the filter to make sure I didn't leave any evidence of using the NEW dryer. . . .
So, now that I have all of these nice, clean rags:
what to do with them?
I decided to use a few scrap shiplap boards from the barn interior to make a couple of shelves over the work sink. Won't that be convenient to the washer?! After installation, I realized that after washing the rags, I'd have to use The Wife' fancy, dancy drier anyway, so the shelves are not all that convenient. I ended up mounting them a little higher than I'd like just to keep from bumping my head while washing my hands. Oh well, at least I now have a nice supply of rags reasonably convenient but out of the way:
what to do with them?
I decided to use a few scrap shiplap boards from the barn interior to make a couple of shelves over the work sink. Won't that be convenient to the washer?! After installation, I realized that after washing the rags, I'd have to use The Wife' fancy, dancy drier anyway, so the shelves are not all that convenient. I ended up mounting them a little higher than I'd like just to keep from bumping my head while washing my hands. Oh well, at least I now have a nice supply of rags reasonably convenient but out of the way:
Oh boy, a project for me! The Wife decided that an espaliered pyracantha would look good on the side of the "house" garage. Well, sure. . . . In this case, the landscapers had provided some plantings that were just NOT working, so they replaced a few and threw in the pyracantha for free. All of that was OK until the plant started growing and it became evident that the trellis that came with the plant was not going to be big enough.
As luck would have it, I found some DIY plans on the web that even included WELDING!! Wow, another excuse to use my 110V welder -- almost as good as an excuse to use the Ford 8N. This looked pretty good:
The plans called for 1X2 cedar, angle iron, and iron round bar. Couldn't find the round bar at Lowes, so settled for 1" square tubing. Also needed a few 8" galvanized carriage bolts. So, here's the raw material:
Drilled holes in the angle iron and used it for a template for each of nine 1X2's. Bolted it all together and began to spread the cedar out into a fan. Plans called for 12' cedar cut to 10'. I had to opt for 8' length as that was what Lowes had -- figured that would be OK for our needs. Plans called for a spread of 88" although the original builder did crack an outer 1X2 and suggested to avoid knots in the outer pieces. I figured 74" would be good -- until an outer piece cracked! [The far left one.]
Tried to finish the other pieces and just as I was telling myself that drilling and screwing for the cross-members would likely weaken the 1X2's, the second outer piece began to crack. OK, so let's just glue and bolt that back together.
Back to Lowes -- but I needed some spray paint for the angle iron anyway. Another 1X2, a few #8 bolts, and some Rustoleum paint and I was ready to try again. Got it back together and it came time to pull out the welder. OK, so it seemed my self-darkening helmet was getting too dark -- I couldn't see the junction between the angle and square tubing. So, I did the best I could and wondered if I needed to adjust something on the helmet. As I finished the last inch of weld it occurred to me that I was outside on a bright, sunshiny day -- which was delightful -- AND I was wearing my photogray glasses. Maybe that's why it was too dark to see. Nevertheless, I think the welds will hold, although not very pretty.
Got the new trellis down to the house but had to remove the old trellis that came with the pyracantha. In doing all that, I kept being reminded that pyracantha means "fire thorn" -- lots of opportunities to be stuck by the very healthy bush.
Had hoped that the extra length of square tubing I was using would be enough to provide a sturdy base for the trellis and I wouldn't need to connect the trellis to the house otherwise. No such luck; either the pit gravel we have for "soil" or another hard object got in the way. Ended up mounting the crossmembers to the house to ensure stability. In the end, The Wife was satisfied and agreed to tie the pyracantha to the trellis (I did warn her that the bush was dangerous).
Now, let's go see if the fish are biting
As luck would have it, I found some DIY plans on the web that even included WELDING!! Wow, another excuse to use my 110V welder -- almost as good as an excuse to use the Ford 8N. This looked pretty good:
The plans called for 1X2 cedar, angle iron, and iron round bar. Couldn't find the round bar at Lowes, so settled for 1" square tubing. Also needed a few 8" galvanized carriage bolts. So, here's the raw material:
Drilled holes in the angle iron and used it for a template for each of nine 1X2's. Bolted it all together and began to spread the cedar out into a fan. Plans called for 12' cedar cut to 10'. I had to opt for 8' length as that was what Lowes had -- figured that would be OK for our needs. Plans called for a spread of 88" although the original builder did crack an outer 1X2 and suggested to avoid knots in the outer pieces. I figured 74" would be good -- until an outer piece cracked! [The far left one.]
Tried to finish the other pieces and just as I was telling myself that drilling and screwing for the cross-members would likely weaken the 1X2's, the second outer piece began to crack. OK, so let's just glue and bolt that back together.
Back to Lowes -- but I needed some spray paint for the angle iron anyway. Another 1X2, a few #8 bolts, and some Rustoleum paint and I was ready to try again. Got it back together and it came time to pull out the welder. OK, so it seemed my self-darkening helmet was getting too dark -- I couldn't see the junction between the angle and square tubing. So, I did the best I could and wondered if I needed to adjust something on the helmet. As I finished the last inch of weld it occurred to me that I was outside on a bright, sunshiny day -- which was delightful -- AND I was wearing my photogray glasses. Maybe that's why it was too dark to see. Nevertheless, I think the welds will hold, although not very pretty.
Got the new trellis down to the house but had to remove the old trellis that came with the pyracantha. In doing all that, I kept being reminded that pyracantha means "fire thorn" -- lots of opportunities to be stuck by the very healthy bush.
Had hoped that the extra length of square tubing I was using would be enough to provide a sturdy base for the trellis and I wouldn't need to connect the trellis to the house otherwise. No such luck; either the pit gravel we have for "soil" or another hard object got in the way. Ended up mounting the crossmembers to the house to ensure stability. In the end, The Wife was satisfied and agreed to tie the pyracantha to the trellis (I did warn her that the bush was dangerous).
Now, let's go see if the fish are biting
xtremek
Well-known member
Nice job and glad to see you're still working hard.
Dang, no fish biting and The Wife talked me into helping her tie up that FIRETHORN. Only minor scratches and one puncture wound! The hardest work this week, xtremek, was going to the driving range to prepare for college chums visiting tomorrow to play golf. It's been too long since I tried to hit that little white ball. . . .
Yep, Crown, I needed the hockey stick!
Now that I've recovered from the golf, I finally almost used the garage for what it was meant for: working on a vehicle. The ole '76 Ford F100 had gone through about three "horse blanket" seat covers and I was getting tired of that. So, I ordered a "real" seat cover from LMC -- not necessarily OEM, but something closer. Got out to the garage today to try the installation. This was not nearly as difficult as doing bucket seats in a muscle car
It took a fairly large torx bit, a large Allen wrench, and some PB penetrating oil to get the seats loose, but I pulled them out. Figured I might as well wash the floor while everything was removed.
The only problem of any note was the missing holes for seat belts and for the protrusions at each end of the bottom cushion that connected with the seat back release.
I decided it was easy enough to run the seat belts between the seat bottom and seat back, so no big deal. After all, this isn't even a super cab or anything; only need to get behind the seat to get lug wrench. But I do wish there had been pre-cut holes for the release protrusion.
Final result was fairly satisfying:
The cab is rather monochromatic now, but I have replacement door panels that are black (so you can paint them whatever color you want!?). Maybe I'll just leave them black for contrast.
Now that I've recovered from the golf, I finally almost used the garage for what it was meant for: working on a vehicle. The ole '76 Ford F100 had gone through about three "horse blanket" seat covers and I was getting tired of that. So, I ordered a "real" seat cover from LMC -- not necessarily OEM, but something closer. Got out to the garage today to try the installation. This was not nearly as difficult as doing bucket seats in a muscle car
It took a fairly large torx bit, a large Allen wrench, and some PB penetrating oil to get the seats loose, but I pulled them out. Figured I might as well wash the floor while everything was removed.
The only problem of any note was the missing holes for seat belts and for the protrusions at each end of the bottom cushion that connected with the seat back release.
I decided it was easy enough to run the seat belts between the seat bottom and seat back, so no big deal. After all, this isn't even a super cab or anything; only need to get behind the seat to get lug wrench. But I do wish there had been pre-cut holes for the release protrusion.
Final result was fairly satisfying:
The cab is rather monochromatic now, but I have replacement door panels that are black (so you can paint them whatever color you want!?). Maybe I'll just leave them black for contrast.
xtremek
Well-known member
Now that you're professional upholsterer, you can come to Michigan and do a couple of projects for me. lol
It would be great to visit MI, xtremek -- looks like St. Johns is very close to the "birthplace" of my Olds 442!
However, to paraphrase a wise man: "Don't try this at [a friend's place]. We're not professionals, but we don't care either." So, I'm not real sure you'd appreciate my upholstery skills. AND, I'll repeat, the ole truck was not nearly as difficult as my 442's bucket seats.
However, to paraphrase a wise man: "Don't try this at [a friend's place]. We're not professionals, but we don't care either." So, I'm not real sure you'd appreciate my upholstery skills. AND, I'll repeat, the ole truck was not nearly as difficult as my 442's bucket seats.
OMG, can you believe it? Some improvements on the workshop, albeit small:
Expecting company toward the end of June that will overfill the house. A younger sister who is a former Peace Corps member and who is married to an Appalachian Trail hiker suggested they would stay in the workshop loft and feel like they were in the Hilton. So, one inflatable bed has been ordered, and today a "brush" weather strip has been applied to the loft door.
Fortunately, the wrong strip for the sliding barn doors worked better for the swinging loft door. Only had to cut it to fit and screw it in. Well, actually, the sliding doors had scraped some paint off of the weather stripping bracket, so some spray paint was applied before installation.
Not so sure it will keep out the insects 100%, but it will look "tighter". There was a small hole just at the hinged side where the door's arc allowed the bristles to get displaced a bit. If the Peace Corps volunteer and AT hiker can't deal with that, they aren't as tough as they let on! Looks OK to me:
Expecting company toward the end of June that will overfill the house. A younger sister who is a former Peace Corps member and who is married to an Appalachian Trail hiker suggested they would stay in the workshop loft and feel like they were in the Hilton. So, one inflatable bed has been ordered, and today a "brush" weather strip has been applied to the loft door.
Fortunately, the wrong strip for the sliding barn doors worked better for the swinging loft door. Only had to cut it to fit and screw it in. Well, actually, the sliding doors had scraped some paint off of the weather stripping bracket, so some spray paint was applied before installation.
Not so sure it will keep out the insects 100%, but it will look "tighter". There was a small hole just at the hinged side where the door's arc allowed the bristles to get displaced a bit. If the Peace Corps volunteer and AT hiker can't deal with that, they aren't as tough as they let on! Looks OK to me:
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xtremek
Well-known member
The Olds Museum is about 20 minutes from the house, I think Drop by anytime. And the important part of that saying is quoted. Here, we appreciate effort more than results.
A little maintenance work on the workshop. Seems this rough-cut lumber has a tendency to cup. One piece of trim had gotten outside the shingles and needed a few screws to tighten it up.
Would have liked for the board to be a bit tighter, but at least it's under the shingles, now. This summer should see the second coat of sealer/stain applied. Maybe that will help the cupping a little, and the guys doing the work can check for other boards that might need some adjustments.
Would have liked for the board to be a bit tighter, but at least it's under the shingles, now. This summer should see the second coat of sealer/stain applied. Maybe that will help the cupping a little, and the guys doing the work can check for other boards that might need some adjustments.
xtremek
Well-known member
Nothing a whole tube of caulk won't fix.
Would you believe it? I got a chance to use the workshop for automotive work!! We had a family gathering of sorts, spurred by a request from my Denver, CO, niece to take her water skiing while she and her husband were on their way to see parents in NC/VA mountains. Just as they were leaving with her parents, we all heard a loud "clunk". On inspection, we found the right rear strut/coil-over/whatever had rusted due to road salt in the mountains. My sister had a meeting the next AM, so we listed options from fixing it ourselves to buying a new car!
We figured first we might eliminate "fixing it ourselves" if we couldn't get the broken item off. A couple of floor jacks, a jack stand or two, and we persuaded the lower nut to come off. So, we chose to continue with fixing it ourselves.
Called local NAPA and located a pair of struts for 2003 Subaru Outback. Found out that struts (essentially just shocks) were without springs so dropped one shock off at Pep Boys in hopes of getting springs swapped from old strut that afternoon. Not going to happen, way too busy. "Fixing it ourselves" was out of the question with the coil spring swap, so we picked up the shock with swapped spring the next morning. That gave us an opportunity in the meantime to review some online videos including one that illustrated how NOT to compress a spring. Sure glad we let Pep Boys do it. We also found out that it is "easy to remove the strut but very difficult to line it back up during installation." Ooops, maybe we bit off more than we could chew.
First off, the pair of bolts at the top needed to be about 90 degrees to the bottom bolt -- which they were not after the coil spring was installed. Pep Boys said to attach the top, get a BIG screw driver and twist the bottom of the shock to line up. With a little luck, we got that aligned.
The shock was fully extended by the coil spring but the suspension was not. Used a floor jack to push the shock up to vertical location then hammered moderately on floor jack to move the hole into alignment with bottom bracket. I guess maybe the fourth or fifth try did it.
Tightened up all nuts and BIL was on the way. He does plan to take it to his local mechanic sometime this week to install the second strut and check our work. But for $95 per strut and $22 to install the spring, we completed half of a $560 job and had some fun (and frustration) doing it.
PS Loaned sister my SUV to get back home for meeting; BIL returned it to help put on strut!
We figured first we might eliminate "fixing it ourselves" if we couldn't get the broken item off. A couple of floor jacks, a jack stand or two, and we persuaded the lower nut to come off. So, we chose to continue with fixing it ourselves.
Called local NAPA and located a pair of struts for 2003 Subaru Outback. Found out that struts (essentially just shocks) were without springs so dropped one shock off at Pep Boys in hopes of getting springs swapped from old strut that afternoon. Not going to happen, way too busy. "Fixing it ourselves" was out of the question with the coil spring swap, so we picked up the shock with swapped spring the next morning. That gave us an opportunity in the meantime to review some online videos including one that illustrated how NOT to compress a spring. Sure glad we let Pep Boys do it. We also found out that it is "easy to remove the strut but very difficult to line it back up during installation." Ooops, maybe we bit off more than we could chew.
First off, the pair of bolts at the top needed to be about 90 degrees to the bottom bolt -- which they were not after the coil spring was installed. Pep Boys said to attach the top, get a BIG screw driver and twist the bottom of the shock to line up. With a little luck, we got that aligned.
The shock was fully extended by the coil spring but the suspension was not. Used a floor jack to push the shock up to vertical location then hammered moderately on floor jack to move the hole into alignment with bottom bracket. I guess maybe the fourth or fifth try did it.
Tightened up all nuts and BIL was on the way. He does plan to take it to his local mechanic sometime this week to install the second strut and check our work. But for $95 per strut and $22 to install the spring, we completed half of a $560 job and had some fun (and frustration) doing it.
PS Loaned sister my SUV to get back home for meeting; BIL returned it to help put on strut!
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Oops, this slipped my mind. You guys see your garages show up in really manly places, but mine showed up in HOUZZ. . . go figure!
http://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/6823...n=u3188&utm_medium=email&utm_content=gallery3
http://www.houzz.com/ideabooks/6823...n=u3188&utm_medium=email&utm_content=gallery3
Lyndon
Well-known member
M
Congrats on that inclusion. I get the Houzz email every few days, and thought it was about time a garage featured. Well Done!
Lyndon
Yep, still watching.
HOTFR8
Banned
Well done on the feature. Any publicity like that is good.
So, the bass-fishing grandson was paying us a visit for a few days and my Sea Ray open bow runabout just wasn't outfitted to be very convenient for fishing. I figured it needed a deck and swivel pedestal chair plus a trolling motor to be acceptable.
First, the deck and chair: Started with some "newsprint" taped together to be large enough to get a tracing of the bow area without cushions. Just pushed the paper into the "corners" of the seats and marked, roughly. Then cut it out and tried the fit.
That seemed to be OK, so folded the tracing paper in half to ensure symmetry and transferred to cardboard. Again, by folding the cardboard, the symmetry was preserved. Added some extra layers of cardboard to stiffen the pattern and tried it out on the boat.
A little trimming later, and the pattern was traced onto pressure treated 3/4" plywood and cut out with the saber saw. Even routed the edges -- 1/4" rounded.
First, the deck and chair: Started with some "newsprint" taped together to be large enough to get a tracing of the bow area without cushions. Just pushed the paper into the "corners" of the seats and marked, roughly. Then cut it out and tried the fit.
That seemed to be OK, so folded the tracing paper in half to ensure symmetry and transferred to cardboard. Again, by folding the cardboard, the symmetry was preserved. Added some extra layers of cardboard to stiffen the pattern and tried it out on the boat.
A little trimming later, and the pattern was traced onto pressure treated 3/4" plywood and cut out with the saber saw. Even routed the edges -- 1/4" rounded.
Continued the deck/chair project by gluing cheap Home Depot indoor/outdoor carpet onto plywood. Cut out carpet about 2-2 1/2" past the plywood edge all the way around. When the grandson arrived, he helped wrap the carpet around the deck edges and stapled to the bottom. A few cuts were required in the carpet to get around the curves.
When carpet was installed, we took the deck to the boat -- now in the water, ready for fishing -- to position the pedestal chair. After the grandson located the chair where it was comfortable for him, we marked the holes and drilled through carpet and plywood. No problem with nuts and bolts other than we had to make a trip to the hardware store to get some.
I was pleased that the 3/4" plywood seemed pretty solid without further support. The fit was pretty good.
When carpet was installed, we took the deck to the boat -- now in the water, ready for fishing -- to position the pedestal chair. After the grandson located the chair where it was comfortable for him, we marked the holes and drilled through carpet and plywood. No problem with nuts and bolts other than we had to make a trip to the hardware store to get some.
I was pleased that the 3/4" plywood seemed pretty solid without further support. The fit was pretty good.
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While I would consider the deck installation pretty successful, installing a trolling motor was a bit more precarious. I was lucky enough to find a suitable trolling motor at Cabelas for about 1/3 off. But that's about where the luck ended.
Obviously, the bow of the boat was not necessarily designed to accept a trolling motor although 20 years ago when the boat was new, an option was a fish and ski installation that included a trolling motor. But, how do you get under the mounting area. You cut through the interior hull, of course. My first thought was about 3" would allow me to get my arm in, and I wanted to back the fiberglass with a 16 gauge piece of steel (probably should have been stainless, but I didn't have that handy) so about 6" long. Then I found a hole in a piece of cardboard only about 2 1/4" high that I could actually put my arm through, so I remeasured and cut out about 2 1/2" X 6" -- notice all of the lines!
Yep, that works, sort of.
It didn't occur to me that to, say, place a nut on the bolt from the inside I would need to grasp the bolt in my hand thereby increasing the "thickness" of my hand. AND, whenever I moved my hand or fingers the muscles in my skinny arm would contract and bear against the hole I cut. Nevertheless, progress was made.
It seemed the best place to put the mounting bracket (which was an extra cost accessory that would allow me to remove the motor for other boat use) was where the front cleat was. So, the first order of business was to remove the cleat. I warned myself that it would be important to hold onto the wrench and the nuts as I loosened them or they may fall into the black hole of the boat interior. Good luck with the nuts; not so much with the wrench. Frankly, of the two choices, the wrench was the lesser of two evils since the nuts were stainless and not magnetic!?! But, when the wrench fell into the boat interior, I had no idea where it was exactly. Fortunately, by removing the running light I was able to see into the interior, find the wrench at the bottom, and position a magnetic retriever to pull the wrench out. Only lost the wrench two other times and one additional washer. Considering that the nuts were nylock and were not easy to thread very far up the bolt, that was not a bad record.
I was pleased to find re-enforcements under the cleat that appeared to be about 3/4" wood encapsulated in fiberglass. But it was difficult to determine the size and position of the re-enforcements. So, The Wife's make-up mirror came into use along with a rule taped to the re-enforcement. By reading the mirror image and transferring the rough measurements to the top of the boat, I found about where to put the motor mounting bracket.
The steel backing was drilled to match the mounting bracket then cut to fit the best position. Still, a couple of pieces of 3/4" plywood were needed to support two of the four mounting bolts. Silicone caulking was applied to all holes and the bracket was attached with much contortion and frustration.
Holes for the re-positioned cleat were drilled, and the cleat attached.
What to do with the 2 1/2" X 6" hole in my boat is still up in the air. I had hoped to put the battery in one of the holds under a front seat and install a quick disconnect in a plate of some sort. But, the battery turned out to be too tall. I do have a teak deck step that I got from West Marine that I could cut down a bit, varnish, and install. But, that's for another day -- we needed to go fishing.
Obviously, the bow of the boat was not necessarily designed to accept a trolling motor although 20 years ago when the boat was new, an option was a fish and ski installation that included a trolling motor. But, how do you get under the mounting area. You cut through the interior hull, of course. My first thought was about 3" would allow me to get my arm in, and I wanted to back the fiberglass with a 16 gauge piece of steel (probably should have been stainless, but I didn't have that handy) so about 6" long. Then I found a hole in a piece of cardboard only about 2 1/4" high that I could actually put my arm through, so I remeasured and cut out about 2 1/2" X 6" -- notice all of the lines!
Yep, that works, sort of.
It didn't occur to me that to, say, place a nut on the bolt from the inside I would need to grasp the bolt in my hand thereby increasing the "thickness" of my hand. AND, whenever I moved my hand or fingers the muscles in my skinny arm would contract and bear against the hole I cut. Nevertheless, progress was made.
It seemed the best place to put the mounting bracket (which was an extra cost accessory that would allow me to remove the motor for other boat use) was where the front cleat was. So, the first order of business was to remove the cleat. I warned myself that it would be important to hold onto the wrench and the nuts as I loosened them or they may fall into the black hole of the boat interior. Good luck with the nuts; not so much with the wrench. Frankly, of the two choices, the wrench was the lesser of two evils since the nuts were stainless and not magnetic!?! But, when the wrench fell into the boat interior, I had no idea where it was exactly. Fortunately, by removing the running light I was able to see into the interior, find the wrench at the bottom, and position a magnetic retriever to pull the wrench out. Only lost the wrench two other times and one additional washer. Considering that the nuts were nylock and were not easy to thread very far up the bolt, that was not a bad record.
I was pleased to find re-enforcements under the cleat that appeared to be about 3/4" wood encapsulated in fiberglass. But it was difficult to determine the size and position of the re-enforcements. So, The Wife's make-up mirror came into use along with a rule taped to the re-enforcement. By reading the mirror image and transferring the rough measurements to the top of the boat, I found about where to put the motor mounting bracket.
The steel backing was drilled to match the mounting bracket then cut to fit the best position. Still, a couple of pieces of 3/4" plywood were needed to support two of the four mounting bolts. Silicone caulking was applied to all holes and the bracket was attached with much contortion and frustration.
Holes for the re-positioned cleat were drilled, and the cleat attached.
What to do with the 2 1/2" X 6" hole in my boat is still up in the air. I had hoped to put the battery in one of the holds under a front seat and install a quick disconnect in a plate of some sort. But, the battery turned out to be too tall. I do have a teak deck step that I got from West Marine that I could cut down a bit, varnish, and install. But, that's for another day -- we needed to go fishing.
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xtremek
Well-known member
But you left out the most important part!!!! Did he catch any fish and did he have fun?
Ahhhh, the things we do for our kids/gkids.xtremek
Well-known member
Well, the fishing report for Lake Wylie was "tough fishing". We confirmed that -- only got one close to the boat. But, yes, we had fun!
And did you take a turn in the tube?
One thing about natural siding barns, they need to be sealed every once in a while. I had purposefully waited a year or so before the first coat so the "newness" would wear off. Over three years now, and a second coat needed to be applied. I took the opportunity to move the junk under the lean-to (that would get in the way of applying sealer)
to the car hauler
Oops, shouldn't call these valuable classic car parts "junk," these were irreplaceable items such as rusty front fenders, bent hood, brake drums, torn bucket and bench seats, radiator supports, bumpers, grill inserts with a few missing "teeth" -- and stuff like that. All from 1967 Oldsmobile 442's.
The three guys took about 4 1/2 hours and 22 gallons of sealer to spray the barn and the pump house. It might still be a little wet, but from back, side, and front, it looks like this:
The Weeping LOOOVE Grass on the hill is not doing too well in the recent heat and dry weather, but now that they've just put on sealer, we're expecting thunderstorms this evening.
The lean-to looked pretty good with all the classic car parts removed. The design was to have room for the boat AND the car hauler.
The boat still fits, of course, but I'm not sure about the car hauler. . .
to the car hauler
Oops, shouldn't call these valuable classic car parts "junk," these were irreplaceable items such as rusty front fenders, bent hood, brake drums, torn bucket and bench seats, radiator supports, bumpers, grill inserts with a few missing "teeth" -- and stuff like that. All from 1967 Oldsmobile 442's.
The three guys took about 4 1/2 hours and 22 gallons of sealer to spray the barn and the pump house. It might still be a little wet, but from back, side, and front, it looks like this:
The Weeping LOOOVE Grass on the hill is not doing too well in the recent heat and dry weather, but now that they've just put on sealer, we're expecting thunderstorms this evening.
The lean-to looked pretty good with all the classic car parts removed. The design was to have room for the boat AND the car hauler.
The boat still fits, of course, but I'm not sure about the car hauler. . .
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Another project from the garage as a result of a hint from the daughter-in-law for her birthday coming up in September: a simple plant stand.
So, a little Google searching and some ideas materialized. Picked up a few 5/4 X 6" pressure treated pine boards at Home Depot and a box of Kreg Jig screws; pulled out the chop saw and the Kreg jig, and we were off to the races.
Didn't matter too much that the screw heads inside the stand would show, but the Kreg jib helped to keep from having holes in the tops of the boards to collect water. Screwed together the two ends and started mounting the horizontal boards:
Here's the second side, but with a little rotation, it turns out to be EXACTLY like the first side. Didn't take too long to figure out. . . that won't work. Fortunately, by pulling out the screws, reversing the boards (by height), and putting the screws back in the CORRECT configuration was constructed and the original holes didn't even show:
Finished up and then a coat or two of sealer:
And was it obvious that I had routed the top ends of the horizontal boards so all four top edges would match? -- 5/4 seems to come with rounded edges.
We delivered the stand to Charleston before a granddaughter's ballet performance in Sleeping Beauty. Didn't take long for the DIL to put her plants on the stand. She was appreciative, but made two comments: bottom shelf could have been a little lower and she still has a few plants that might just fit on a table I could make for Christmas!?!?!
So, a little Google searching and some ideas materialized. Picked up a few 5/4 X 6" pressure treated pine boards at Home Depot and a box of Kreg Jig screws; pulled out the chop saw and the Kreg jig, and we were off to the races.
Didn't matter too much that the screw heads inside the stand would show, but the Kreg jib helped to keep from having holes in the tops of the boards to collect water. Screwed together the two ends and started mounting the horizontal boards:
Here's the second side, but with a little rotation, it turns out to be EXACTLY like the first side. Didn't take too long to figure out. . . that won't work. Fortunately, by pulling out the screws, reversing the boards (by height), and putting the screws back in the CORRECT configuration was constructed and the original holes didn't even show:
Finished up and then a coat or two of sealer:
And was it obvious that I had routed the top ends of the horizontal boards so all four top edges would match? -- 5/4 seems to come with rounded edges.
We delivered the stand to Charleston before a granddaughter's ballet performance in Sleeping Beauty. Didn't take long for the DIL to put her plants on the stand. She was appreciative, but made two comments: bottom shelf could have been a little lower and she still has a few plants that might just fit on a table I could make for Christmas!?!?!
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Well, don't guess this is really a Garage project except that I pulled the Ford 8N out of the garage to use for moving wood chips. However, I thought I saw a thread about landscaping, so I'll use that as the other part of my excuse.
The North side of the house was planned to have a mulched area and little planting since no one would really see it. However, to stabilize the dirt, we planted some fescue grass seed. Since it was shaded much of the day, it was my best stand of grass until this summer with no rain AND no sprinkler system. So, I got tired of seeing centipede grass invading and pulled out the Round-Up:
Nope, I didn't spray the potted plant; it just died of its own accord and was moved out of sight.
Three box loads of chip left the area looking like this:
Our neighbors have started work on their house and I think my chip pile is on their property. Probably good to move most of it while I can.
A little spreading of the mulch and I'd estimate that another 12 box loads will do it.
I may get lucky. The neighbor cut a 250 foot drive through his woods and the guys doing the work asked if I'd be interested in the chips. Of course, I said to bring it on. No rain almost all summer, trees dying right and left, no grass where no sprinkler, and the week he begins, Hermine passes by and we get rain. No problem, dry again today.
The North side of the house was planned to have a mulched area and little planting since no one would really see it. However, to stabilize the dirt, we planted some fescue grass seed. Since it was shaded much of the day, it was my best stand of grass until this summer with no rain AND no sprinkler system. So, I got tired of seeing centipede grass invading and pulled out the Round-Up:
Nope, I didn't spray the potted plant; it just died of its own accord and was moved out of sight.
Three box loads of chip left the area looking like this:
Our neighbors have started work on their house and I think my chip pile is on their property. Probably good to move most of it while I can.
A little spreading of the mulch and I'd estimate that another 12 box loads will do it.
I may get lucky. The neighbor cut a 250 foot drive through his woods and the guys doing the work asked if I'd be interested in the chips. Of course, I said to bring it on. No rain almost all summer, trees dying right and left, no grass where no sprinkler, and the week he begins, Hermine passes by and we get rain. No problem, dry again today.
HOTFR8
Banned
Great score on the chips and I can see you have been busy. Well done as the landscaping is just as important as what goes on inside the Garage.
Right, HOTFR8, I like free! Actually, so far all the wood chips I have used have been no-cost. There's a local arborist that will drop off a load of chips with a phone call. It's cheaper for him, since he's so close, to dump them here than take to landfill or something. I have to wait a few days at times, and I can't really complain if his recent job included lots of limbs and twigs. But it sure is great when you see he's recently sharpened the chipper blades!
xtremek
Well-known member
Free Chips? You ****.
Hey, extremek, I can share! HOLY COW, the pile regenerated:
Actually, our "new" neighbor bought the lot next door including a 50-year-old trailer that had been used as a fishing retreat for all those years. He promptly bought a 25-foot boat and had a nice dock and lift installed -- over two years ago. He's just now getting his house started and the first thing is to cut a drive so they can pull the trailer out. The crew offered chips from the trees they pushed over, so I accepted. If you consider free, it looks good; if you consider the work to spread the pile, it looks overwhelming.
AND, there are more chips just on the other side of the property line. I bet we could get a few of them, as well!
Time to crank up the ole 8N again.
Actually, our "new" neighbor bought the lot next door including a 50-year-old trailer that had been used as a fishing retreat for all those years. He promptly bought a 25-foot boat and had a nice dock and lift installed -- over two years ago. He's just now getting his house started and the first thing is to cut a drive so they can pull the trailer out. The crew offered chips from the trees they pushed over, so I accepted. If you consider free, it looks good; if you consider the work to spread the pile, it looks overwhelming.
AND, there are more chips just on the other side of the property line. I bet we could get a few of them, as well!
Time to crank up the ole 8N again.
OK, so finally finished the chip-moving-and-spreading job on the North side of the house. I thought 12 more loads; turned out more like 17, but who's counting? Good use for the old 8N. Somebody said I should name the tractor. Since The Wife was taken by the paint job, I guess it would work to call it Ole Paint, huh? In any case, pretty satisfied with final results. Will have to wait to see where weeds come up because it's too thin.
Still have plenty of chips and I'm sure The Wife will have spots that need mulch. . . .
Still have plenty of chips and I'm sure The Wife will have spots that need mulch. . . .
HOTFR8
Banned
Once again, looking good.
So, next project, now that 20 yards of chips have been spread, is to "find" the birthday present The Wife gave me. After whining about the safety needs I have for a two-post lift, she "gave" me one for my birthday. Well, actually, she gave me a check to cover most of the cost (which basically means she won't complain too much when I spend the money). I have to chose the lift, order it, and install it. I'm trying to see if I have six or eight friends to help me unload and erect it. At least I have one friend, he said I could borrow his flat bed trailer to pick up the lift. Northern Tool says if I buy a lift from the store, they will put it on the trailer for me, and free shipping.
I'm leaning toward the Ben Pak 9 or 10K, but I cannot figure the difference between symmetric and asymmetric. I mean, I understand the difference, but with "all" the advantages of asymmetric, why would they even still sell the symmetric?!
Oh well, not a bad problem to have to work through. Now, what happened to all my buddies. . . ?
I'm leaning toward the Ben Pak 9 or 10K, but I cannot figure the difference between symmetric and asymmetric. I mean, I understand the difference, but with "all" the advantages of asymmetric, why would they even still sell the symmetric?!
Oh well, not a bad problem to have to work through. Now, what happened to all my buddies. . . ?
What to do with hitch pins for the Ford 8N's three point hitch when the implement already has them? I've come close to losing them a couple of times as well as other attachment parts when not in use. How 'bout the OEM tool box that goes under the hood? Maybe I can leave a pair of pliers, a medium heavy hammer, and a couple of other standard tools in there, too.
Just 8N's, which is right up the road in Shelby, NC, happened to have a bright red, stock size tool box -- so I ordered one.
This is where it is supposed to go. Even though The Wife picked this tractor for the "nice paint job", someone forgot to detail under the hood! I rubbed off some of the crud, but figured I'd wait until later to give it a good going over since everything under the hood probably needs some work. The two holes that look to line up with the toolbox are already threaded, no nut needed.
And, believe it or not, the box was a perfect fit, the pre-punched holes in the box lined up perfectly, and it you didn't open the lid you'd think everything went like clockwork.
But, nope, that would not be SOP for Bailey's Barn. With all the appropriate forethought I could muster, I checked to see if the cap screws Just 8N's provided would fit the threaded holes. I tried a number of times and couldn't get them started. Maybe metric? No, surely not for a 1949 Ford tractor. But I wanted to at least chase the holes so bolting the toolbox would be easy. But what size? Checking 5/16" coarse that I had in my screws and bolts pile indicated the screws were not coarse. I couldn't convince myself that they were fine. So, I tapped/chased with the 5/16" coarse for the central hole.
Problem was, the hole on the side was too cramped to allow the tap tool to turn. No problem, just chase it with the bolt, itself. After a few turns, I was convinced THAT wasn't working. When I pulled the bolt out, the threads on IT were all buggered up. Maybe the hole really was fine. Let's "chase" the hole with the cap screw Just 8N's provided. OK, so it was tight, but it worked! I should have trusted Just 8N's from the start. After all, you cannot expect a 67 year old hole to be clean, rust-free, and ready to use. But now I'll just keep the toolbox lid closed... .
Just 8N's, which is right up the road in Shelby, NC, happened to have a bright red, stock size tool box -- so I ordered one.
This is where it is supposed to go. Even though The Wife picked this tractor for the "nice paint job", someone forgot to detail under the hood! I rubbed off some of the crud, but figured I'd wait until later to give it a good going over since everything under the hood probably needs some work. The two holes that look to line up with the toolbox are already threaded, no nut needed.
And, believe it or not, the box was a perfect fit, the pre-punched holes in the box lined up perfectly, and it you didn't open the lid you'd think everything went like clockwork.
But, nope, that would not be SOP for Bailey's Barn. With all the appropriate forethought I could muster, I checked to see if the cap screws Just 8N's provided would fit the threaded holes. I tried a number of times and couldn't get them started. Maybe metric? No, surely not for a 1949 Ford tractor. But I wanted to at least chase the holes so bolting the toolbox would be easy. But what size? Checking 5/16" coarse that I had in my screws and bolts pile indicated the screws were not coarse. I couldn't convince myself that they were fine. So, I tapped/chased with the 5/16" coarse for the central hole.
Problem was, the hole on the side was too cramped to allow the tap tool to turn. No problem, just chase it with the bolt, itself. After a few turns, I was convinced THAT wasn't working. When I pulled the bolt out, the threads on IT were all buggered up. Maybe the hole really was fine. Let's "chase" the hole with the cap screw Just 8N's provided. OK, so it was tight, but it worked! I should have trusted Just 8N's from the start. After all, you cannot expect a 67 year old hole to be clean, rust-free, and ready to use. But now I'll just keep the toolbox lid closed... .
HOTFR8
Banned
I think they call that Murphy's Law. Anything that can go wrong will go wrong.
Or, my dad would have said, "I think you just outsmarted yourself." My son would say, "You think too much." I would have to agree that my forethought did me in. I should have trusted Just 8N's and screwed the cap screws in without checking. . . . But the toolbox does look nice if you don't open the lid! I guess I need to clean up the rest of the under-hood items. There's another Murphy's Law in there somewhere.