xtremek
Well-known member
I wouldn't do the slits, it'll introduce the possibility of leaks and surface rust.
Above 1200 Sq/FT Bailey's Barn Build
- Thread starter mwbailey
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
With respect to Inline Tube, I had not needed to contact them before but left a message after the end of the workday last Friday. I got an E-mail response this morning at 8:21 am. I'd have to give them kudos for response time -- and the answer was short, sweet, and complete. Can't complain about all of that. . . .
xtremek
Well-known member
Very cool news about In-Line. And I hope you would drive it. Trailer queens aren't as cool as a driver, in my book.
OK, probably good advice to check with Autozone for pipe expander AND to check with muffler shop.
Old Paint, the Ford 8N tractor, had been sitting for a while but I needed to move some brush. When I tried to crank her, she was deader than a door knob. Tried to charge the battery, and nothing happened -- just got a red light beside "battery" on the charger! Took the battery back to Autozone where I bought it and while I was there asked for a pipe expander loan tool. I got a free replacement battery -- it was less than a year old -- and put a $40 or so deposit on the expander. I guess they wanted it back. When I said it was a lot like what I had gotten from Harbor Freight and what if I broke it, the guy said that was no problem, just bring it back, anyway. OK, that works.
Stopped by Midas and asked about how far a tailpipe should go into a muffler outlet. The "receptionist" had to call his exhaust expert who admitted that they usually welded exhausts together but sometimes needed to insert the pipes. He suggested if the tailpipe went into the muffler outlet far enough to get the clamp on both pieces, I'd be good. That is, when clamp was placed on larger pipe, the smaller pipe was inserted far enough to be clamped, too -- clamp fully on larger pipe.
The Autozone expander got me another 1/4 to 1/2" which will allow the clamp to cover both pipes. Plan is to insert the pipes, clamp lightly, finish a bit more fabrication and see how the tailpipes look. In the meantime, I found a Lisle pipe expander that shows a video using an air impact wrench. If all else fails, I may have to acquire one of those.
I guess that could be called progress, on paper. Time with grands and church has postponed the "loosely assembled" exhaust system. Maybe tomorrow.
Old Paint, the Ford 8N tractor, had been sitting for a while but I needed to move some brush. When I tried to crank her, she was deader than a door knob. Tried to charge the battery, and nothing happened -- just got a red light beside "battery" on the charger! Took the battery back to Autozone where I bought it and while I was there asked for a pipe expander loan tool. I got a free replacement battery -- it was less than a year old -- and put a $40 or so deposit on the expander. I guess they wanted it back. When I said it was a lot like what I had gotten from Harbor Freight and what if I broke it, the guy said that was no problem, just bring it back, anyway. OK, that works.
Stopped by Midas and asked about how far a tailpipe should go into a muffler outlet. The "receptionist" had to call his exhaust expert who admitted that they usually welded exhausts together but sometimes needed to insert the pipes. He suggested if the tailpipe went into the muffler outlet far enough to get the clamp on both pieces, I'd be good. That is, when clamp was placed on larger pipe, the smaller pipe was inserted far enough to be clamped, too -- clamp fully on larger pipe.
The Autozone expander got me another 1/4 to 1/2" which will allow the clamp to cover both pipes. Plan is to insert the pipes, clamp lightly, finish a bit more fabrication and see how the tailpipes look. In the meantime, I found a Lisle pipe expander that shows a video using an air impact wrench. If all else fails, I may have to acquire one of those.
I guess that could be called progress, on paper. Time with grands and church has postponed the "loosely assembled" exhaust system. Maybe tomorrow.
HOTFR8
Banned
Sounds like you need a battery tender on that Tractor battery.
Actually, HOTFR8, I left the key on that whole time. I always turn the gas stopcock off and let the engine run until the bowl is dry. THEN I'm supposed to turn the key off. Somehow, I forgot. Just don't mention that to Autozone. Well, that is probably what drained the battery, but I would suspect that even a dead battery less than a year old would take a charge.
I am still amazed that Ole Paint starts up without a fuss even after sitting for several months. On the other hand, I've read that leaving the key on can burn up the distributor points. Glad that didn't happen. The key is in the workshop this time!!!?!
I am still amazed that Ole Paint starts up without a fuss even after sitting for several months. On the other hand, I've read that leaving the key on can burn up the distributor points. Glad that didn't happen. The key is in the workshop this time!!!?!
HOTFR8
Banned
Glad you worked that out. I would still use a battery tender. Given the age of the battery I would say it was faulty as it should have taken charge. Good idea to take the key out. Do not lose it.
xtremek
Well-known member
The Old Mule sits outside in the nasty for months at a time. And she usually fires right up. Then again, I left the 6v starter in when I did the conversion.
Well, I was trying to keep The Wife happy by making a run to the garbage collection center. Got the '76 Ford pick-em-up all loaded and didn't even make it to the end of the driveway:
Pretty big hole in the tire! Probably caught a stick/snag at one of the trips to the brush landfill last month and it finally let go:
Sears has let me down by closing, so I had to find another source of rubber. The '68 Olds 442 had been repaired at Tire Town about 30 years ago, so I stopped by to see them. They remembered the 442 but had forgotten my name. Will pick the wheel back up tomorrow.
Fortunately, the spare -- although low on air initially -- held the recharge I gave it until I got to and from the "green boxes". So, The Wife is happy.. . about the garbage, anyway.
Pretty big hole in the tire! Probably caught a stick/snag at one of the trips to the brush landfill last month and it finally let go:
Sears has let me down by closing, so I had to find another source of rubber. The '68 Olds 442 had been repaired at Tire Town about 30 years ago, so I stopped by to see them. They remembered the 442 but had forgotten my name. Will pick the wheel back up tomorrow.
Fortunately, the spare -- although low on air initially -- held the recharge I gave it until I got to and from the "green boxes". So, The Wife is happy.. . about the garbage, anyway.
xtremek
Well-known member
Holy Cow!!! That's a hole.
HOTFR8
Banned
They said they couldn't repair the tire -- I had to buy a new one.
I can see why. How did you damage like that?
xtremek
Well-known member
You should have told them to just slap a tube in it and rock on down the road.
Got the damage "repaired" by replacing the tire. Immediately threw what turned out to be 220 pounds of briers and vines into the bed and raced down to the landfill:
Didn't even wash the whitewall off. The Wife says I want everyone to know I have a new tire.. .maybe.
The best I can figure on the damage is either the tire blew out of old age and/or I did some damage in my several trips to the landfill last month, like running over a stob. I can't really figure how some of the steel "cord" got rusted. So, bottom line, HOTFR8, I don't really know what happened
Dang, XTREMEK, I wish I had thought of the tube route!?!?!? Actually, the way the steel plies were twisted up, my guess is even if the slit were smaller, the tube would have been punctured pretty quickly.
One good thing about the tire purchase is while talking with Chief Blue, he told me that Marty -- the guy that put my 1967 Olds 442 together and painted it about 30 years ago is back in business. I had stopped by Maaco to see if they would paint my second 442 and they were not very interested. I called Marty today and he said to bring it over when I got the chassis ready. I think he knew I am several months out on that. . . .
Didn't even wash the whitewall off. The Wife says I want everyone to know I have a new tire.. .maybe.
The best I can figure on the damage is either the tire blew out of old age and/or I did some damage in my several trips to the landfill last month, like running over a stob. I can't really figure how some of the steel "cord" got rusted. So, bottom line, HOTFR8, I don't really know what happened
Dang, XTREMEK, I wish I had thought of the tube route!?!?!? Actually, the way the steel plies were twisted up, my guess is even if the slit were smaller, the tube would have been punctured pretty quickly.
One good thing about the tire purchase is while talking with Chief Blue, he told me that Marty -- the guy that put my 1967 Olds 442 together and painted it about 30 years ago is back in business. I had stopped by Maaco to see if they would paint my second 442 and they were not very interested. I called Marty today and he said to bring it over when I got the chassis ready. I think he knew I am several months out on that. . . .
HOTFR8
Banned
Sounds like it just wore out. For rust to appear it would have been like that for some time and yes it sounds like what we say here is you staked it on something.
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Progress is progress, even if baby steps!
Got the exhaust system mocked up; will wait for a good while before tightening everything up. Something tells me the location of the exhaust manifold exits will determine where everything else goes.
If you look real close. . . well, actually, you also have to use your imagination . . . you might see a red clip like these:
about where the fuel line makes a left dogleg to get lined up to go through the frame up front. Now I'm not sure where to put the other red fuel line clips! Just as soon as I find a nice chassis photo on the Internet, I find something that I KNOW is not right (not "stock", I should say) -- like only ONE fuel line. At some point I'll just give up and guess. Not sure anyone else knows, anyway.
Got the exhaust system mocked up; will wait for a good while before tightening everything up. Something tells me the location of the exhaust manifold exits will determine where everything else goes.
If you look real close. . . well, actually, you also have to use your imagination . . . you might see a red clip like these:
about where the fuel line makes a left dogleg to get lined up to go through the frame up front. Now I'm not sure where to put the other red fuel line clips! Just as soon as I find a nice chassis photo on the Internet, I find something that I KNOW is not right (not "stock", I should say) -- like only ONE fuel line. At some point I'll just give up and guess. Not sure anyone else knows, anyway.
xtremek
Well-known member
Someone out there knows exactly where it goes. FInding the someone, that mmight be a challenge.
Yep, a good number of folks "know" exactly where things go, but they don't all agree!! I suppose that my guess is as good as any, but I don't mind checking in on a few experts. . . . The assembly manual is still probably my best bet, but line drawings don't always give the best views. Oh well, as my hippy-dippy sister would say, "That sounds like a first world problem to me."
OK, while thinking about where to put the gas line clips, I pulled out the brake lines for installation. They had been sitting around for so long that they had gotten pretty well mucked up with dust and debris. So, first order of business was to use a little steel wool and elbow grease to clean things up. Amazing how mucky these things got over the years!
For comparison (one line cleaned of each pair):
Got the bare lines cleaned, but there are a couple of lengths of line with wire coiled around that steel wool was hard to maneuver into the crevasses. I think I'll try a Dremel tool with wire brush or something like that. Easier to clean these things now, rather than after installation.
The rear axle brake lines are already installed; should I remove or try to clean installed? Hmm. . . .
For comparison (one line cleaned of each pair):
Got the bare lines cleaned, but there are a couple of lengths of line with wire coiled around that steel wool was hard to maneuver into the crevasses. I think I'll try a Dremel tool with wire brush or something like that. Easier to clean these things now, rather than after installation.
The rear axle brake lines are already installed; should I remove or try to clean installed? Hmm. . . .
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BajaScout
Well-known member
Looks dry rotted.
What are the dates codes on the tires?
What are the dates codes on the tires?
Haven't checked the date code, BajaScout, but I'd agree with you -- dry rot and/or old age has certainly set in. . . .
I should probably check the other tires, but I'd hate to find out that I need three more new tires. I'd have more invested in rubber than the truck is worth! Probably should do it anyhow for safety sake.
I should probably check the other tires, but I'd hate to find out that I need three more new tires. I'd have more invested in rubber than the truck is worth! Probably should do it anyhow for safety sake.
BajaScout
Well-known member
Tire prices have really gone up over the years.
If you frequent "Pick Your Part" junkyards they have sales. Here one day a week for tires. That or watch Craigslist for some good used ones. I pay attention to dates codes so I do not get in the same situation again.
This is a good way to keep the vehicle(s) you do not use much with decent tires. You may also consider tire covers if the truck is just sitting around most of the time.
If you frequent "Pick Your Part" junkyards they have sales. Here one day a week for tires. That or watch Craigslist for some good used ones. I pay attention to dates codes so I do not get in the same situation again.
This is a good way to keep the vehicle(s) you do not use much with decent tires. You may also consider tire covers if the truck is just sitting around most of the time.
xtremek
Well-known member
From now on, until something better comes along, I'm going to try to use Copper-Nickel for all of my lines. But I'll never be trying to restore anything.
So, a little more progress in the workshop after cleaning the OUTSIDE of the brakelines. Hard to tell the difference in this photo and the last one with the exhaust in place:
This gives a bet better view.
Seems I'm missing a brace that holds the lines from the master cylinder to the "switch". Apparently, I didn't procure a new one, so I must have an old one around somewhere. Also happened to find a clip for the rear brake hose that I didn't know I was missing. . . .
I decided to try using a Dremel tool and buff to clean up the wire coiled around a few of the brakelines. I figured a little bit of stainless steel buffing compound would be just the trick. When I pulled out the box of compound, I found two lug nuts, several fender shims, and a clip of some sort. What sort became apparent as I was installing the brakelines!!!?! Gave it a little wire brushing and a couple of coats of black paint. Should work find after it dries.
Started to install the emergency/parking brake cable but ran into a couple of problems: only saw one of the two cables, will need to install the transmission support, and wasn't confident in knowing what goes where. Pulled out the parking brake page of the assembly manual along with the instructions that came with the cable(s?) to study a bit. Maybe tomorrow.
This gives a bet better view.
Seems I'm missing a brace that holds the lines from the master cylinder to the "switch". Apparently, I didn't procure a new one, so I must have an old one around somewhere. Also happened to find a clip for the rear brake hose that I didn't know I was missing. . . .
I decided to try using a Dremel tool and buff to clean up the wire coiled around a few of the brakelines. I figured a little bit of stainless steel buffing compound would be just the trick. When I pulled out the box of compound, I found two lug nuts, several fender shims, and a clip of some sort. What sort became apparent as I was installing the brakelines!!!?! Gave it a little wire brushing and a couple of coats of black paint. Should work find after it dries.
Started to install the emergency/parking brake cable but ran into a couple of problems: only saw one of the two cables, will need to install the transmission support, and wasn't confident in knowing what goes where. Pulled out the parking brake page of the assembly manual along with the instructions that came with the cable(s?) to study a bit. Maybe tomorrow.
Another small step! Turns out the emergency brake cables to the wheels were already in place; the single cable I found goes to the pedal.
With a little review of the assembly manual, I figured where 'most everything went, in theory. Before installing the emergency brake paraphernalia, I had to install the transmission support. That would have been easier BEFORE brake and fuel lines were installed -- tight squeeze for fingers to get the nuts on. Even more frustrating was finding how to get the support "into" the frame rails. Finally found that there was just enough room to insert the support diagonally from front left to rear right and then slide up to bolt holes. Interesting that support is called out to be "metal" color and not painted with the frame. Maybe because the location is different with manual versus automatic transmission. That might mean that the support was installed separately and after the frame was painted.
After that, cable installation was pretty straight-forward, sort of. Turns out, it's better to install the cable into the adjusting clip BEFORE the clip is inserted on the bolt since the ends of the cable have large ends. Also, there are three wire spring-clips to hold the two wheel cables and one pedal cable to the frame. Two of them just happened to be "linked" together. Got a pair of vice-grips and a pair of regular pliers to pull one spring-clip far enough apart to let the second fall out -- even moved to the workbench so the second spring-clip wouldn't fall to the floor. But, Murphy was at work; second spring-clip hit the floor anyway and "sprung" all the way to behind the bench.
At about that time, it seemed prudent to check the time since the Boy Scout fund-raiser dinner had a reception starting at 5:30 pm. Ooops, it's already 4:50 and I need to shower and dress. The reception included photos with Joe Theisman who was going to be the keynote speaker. Not a real big fan of the Redskins (my son is), but wanted to shake his hand anyway -- Joe's, not my son's. Hurriedly finished the emergency brake job and made it to reception in time.
Closer look at almost finished assembly. A couple of small hooks hanging from cable (more easily seen in first photo) should connect to a brace underneath the body, itself. Didn't take time to confirm.
With a little review of the assembly manual, I figured where 'most everything went, in theory. Before installing the emergency brake paraphernalia, I had to install the transmission support. That would have been easier BEFORE brake and fuel lines were installed -- tight squeeze for fingers to get the nuts on. Even more frustrating was finding how to get the support "into" the frame rails. Finally found that there was just enough room to insert the support diagonally from front left to rear right and then slide up to bolt holes. Interesting that support is called out to be "metal" color and not painted with the frame. Maybe because the location is different with manual versus automatic transmission. That might mean that the support was installed separately and after the frame was painted.
After that, cable installation was pretty straight-forward, sort of. Turns out, it's better to install the cable into the adjusting clip BEFORE the clip is inserted on the bolt since the ends of the cable have large ends. Also, there are three wire spring-clips to hold the two wheel cables and one pedal cable to the frame. Two of them just happened to be "linked" together. Got a pair of vice-grips and a pair of regular pliers to pull one spring-clip far enough apart to let the second fall out -- even moved to the workbench so the second spring-clip wouldn't fall to the floor. But, Murphy was at work; second spring-clip hit the floor anyway and "sprung" all the way to behind the bench.
At about that time, it seemed prudent to check the time since the Boy Scout fund-raiser dinner had a reception starting at 5:30 pm. Ooops, it's already 4:50 and I need to shower and dress. The reception included photos with Joe Theisman who was going to be the keynote speaker. Not a real big fan of the Redskins (my son is), but wanted to shake his hand anyway -- Joe's, not my son's. Hurriedly finished the emergency brake job and made it to reception in time.
Closer look at almost finished assembly. A couple of small hooks hanging from cable (more easily seen in first photo) should connect to a brace underneath the body, itself. Didn't take time to confirm.
This may be an even smaller step for today! I managed to install the clip holding the rear brake line where it passes through the frame cross member. It wasn't as easy as anticipated since there was another clip just a few inches away that created a bit of a bind. Decided to remove the second clip from the frame and get the first clip inserted. THEN put the second clip on the brake tubing and try to insert the second clip with brake tubing attached. Seemed to be successful, but I'll be interested to see if it doesn't pop out soon.
Then I ran over to Fastenal to get some nuts and bolts. I had plenty of piles of fasteners from disassembly, but they were all pretty rusting and I didn't know which went where. The guy at Fastenal suggested I use grade 5 bolts and mentioned that the bolts I had were rusted because they had been zinc plated. So, we started looking for what I had picked from the assembly manual that I would need next. Problem was, I only needed a few pieces of each size, but in some cases the smaller numbers were not available in the packages -- we had to go to larger numbers! Also, not all the sizes were available in zinc plate, so we went to stainless steel. Even with that, one of the size bolts was not available, so I'll have to go online anyway. Bottom line, I got $80 worth of bolt, but still need a couple. . . . .
I had hoped to work on installing stabilizer bars next, but guess what bolt is missing!
So, what about motor mounts. Fortunately, the assembly manual gives detailed information, even including the need for flat washers on two of six fasteners? What, did someone measure wrong of something? Do you need a "shim" to line up the motor mounts?!?!?
So, in looking at the right and left side of the front cross member, the right side has two SLOTS. Well, dummy, that's what it says in the manual!?
Now, just follow directions. However, my "large hands" were not going to fit inside the cross member to insert the bolt! I tried an extension and that seemed to work OK. That is, until I dropped it inside the cross member; my "large hands" were not going to fit inside the cross member to get the extension! I tried a small, magnetic flash light as a retriever and that seemed to work OK. Got a longer extension and finished the motor mount installations.
I noted that the mounts were not as glossy as the frame, but I've read somewhere that with parts being fabricated and painted at different times and different places, the parts didn't always have the same gloss. Everything is just test fit, so it won't be hard to pull the mounts off and spray a glossier black. I know which extension to use now. For the moment,I'm satisfied!
Then I ran over to Fastenal to get some nuts and bolts. I had plenty of piles of fasteners from disassembly, but they were all pretty rusting and I didn't know which went where. The guy at Fastenal suggested I use grade 5 bolts and mentioned that the bolts I had were rusted because they had been zinc plated. So, we started looking for what I had picked from the assembly manual that I would need next. Problem was, I only needed a few pieces of each size, but in some cases the smaller numbers were not available in the packages -- we had to go to larger numbers! Also, not all the sizes were available in zinc plate, so we went to stainless steel. Even with that, one of the size bolts was not available, so I'll have to go online anyway. Bottom line, I got $80 worth of bolt, but still need a couple. . . . .
I had hoped to work on installing stabilizer bars next, but guess what bolt is missing!
So, what about motor mounts. Fortunately, the assembly manual gives detailed information, even including the need for flat washers on two of six fasteners? What, did someone measure wrong of something? Do you need a "shim" to line up the motor mounts?!?!?
So, in looking at the right and left side of the front cross member, the right side has two SLOTS. Well, dummy, that's what it says in the manual!?
Now, just follow directions. However, my "large hands" were not going to fit inside the cross member to insert the bolt! I tried an extension and that seemed to work OK. That is, until I dropped it inside the cross member; my "large hands" were not going to fit inside the cross member to get the extension! I tried a small, magnetic flash light as a retriever and that seemed to work OK. Got a longer extension and finished the motor mount installations.
I noted that the mounts were not as glossy as the frame, but I've read somewhere that with parts being fabricated and painted at different times and different places, the parts didn't always have the same gloss. Everything is just test fit, so it won't be hard to pull the mounts off and spray a glossier black. I know which extension to use now. For the moment,I'm satisfied!
xtremek
Well-known member
When you're finished with your's, you're going to help me with mine, right? It's looking sharp.
Some distractions lately, but I'm waiting for four 2 1/2 inch bolts (that just came in the mail).
First, while still in sock feet and T-shirt getting ready to brush my teeth after breakfast, I hear a truck on the driveway -- that's right, the "new" cement driveway that The Wife just had to have although the gravel seemed to be working just fine for me. The Wife's rule: NO BIG TRUCKS on the driveway. So, I grab a pair of shoes and a jacket while running out to see what's up. It was the arborist with a load of chips. Of course, The Wife also wants mulch on the beds, so this was a bit of irony . . . I think.
A couple of weeks ago, Jesu and I cleared a spot just off the road for the next load of mulch:
But somehow the message left with the arborist including that there were red ribbons at the chip site, didn't quite make it. To be fair, since clearing the area we've had nothing but rain and even a snow! Maybe it was so long ago, he had forgotten. No bother, he confirmed what I knew but what The Wife probably wouldn't understand -- the load of chips didn't even squish the tires on the truck.
With family coming in early June and a page of items on the to-do list, I chose two days after the snow to put another coat of sealer on the deck. I had given the deck a light pressure-washing some few days ago. Got all the chairs, tables, planters, and other debris gathered at one end and blew off as much pollen and trash as I could. My original plan was to stagger the place on the boards as to where I finished sealing one end, then move all the furniture to that end, and complete the job. By the time I was getting close to finishing the first half, I was so tired of leaning over that I just left it like this:
While working on the deck, I thought I heard another "BIG" truck, so I took a break for lunch and checked it out. Sure enough, a second pile of chips. They must have been working pretty close to make another run so quickly.
Finishing up after lunch and clearing tools, paint, and drop cloths from the deck (it's supposed to rain tomorrow), I thought I heard still another "BIG" truck. Sure enough, a THIRD pile of chips arrived.
Can't complain about free mulch, but now spreading chips goes on the to-do list . . . manana.
First, while still in sock feet and T-shirt getting ready to brush my teeth after breakfast, I hear a truck on the driveway -- that's right, the "new" cement driveway that The Wife just had to have although the gravel seemed to be working just fine for me. The Wife's rule: NO BIG TRUCKS on the driveway. So, I grab a pair of shoes and a jacket while running out to see what's up. It was the arborist with a load of chips. Of course, The Wife also wants mulch on the beds, so this was a bit of irony . . . I think.
A couple of weeks ago, Jesu and I cleared a spot just off the road for the next load of mulch:
But somehow the message left with the arborist including that there were red ribbons at the chip site, didn't quite make it. To be fair, since clearing the area we've had nothing but rain and even a snow! Maybe it was so long ago, he had forgotten. No bother, he confirmed what I knew but what The Wife probably wouldn't understand -- the load of chips didn't even squish the tires on the truck.
With family coming in early June and a page of items on the to-do list, I chose two days after the snow to put another coat of sealer on the deck. I had given the deck a light pressure-washing some few days ago. Got all the chairs, tables, planters, and other debris gathered at one end and blew off as much pollen and trash as I could. My original plan was to stagger the place on the boards as to where I finished sealing one end, then move all the furniture to that end, and complete the job. By the time I was getting close to finishing the first half, I was so tired of leaning over that I just left it like this:
While working on the deck, I thought I heard another "BIG" truck, so I took a break for lunch and checked it out. Sure enough, a second pile of chips. They must have been working pretty close to make another run so quickly.
Finishing up after lunch and clearing tools, paint, and drop cloths from the deck (it's supposed to rain tomorrow), I thought I heard still another "BIG" truck. Sure enough, a THIRD pile of chips arrived.
Can't complain about free mulch, but now spreading chips goes on the to-do list . . . manana.
HOTFR8
Banned
Spreading those chips will keep you busy.
Well, HOTFR8, it rained again today so I had a good excuse for not starting the chip spreading duty!
In the meantime, I did make some progress on the 442 -- got the rear stabilizer bar positioned with the 2 1/2", 7/16 X 20 bolts. Hard to see, but it's right under the rear axle:
I have eight spacers that would fit between the stabilizer and the "traction" bars, but I'll be danged if I can figure out how you know how many to use. I'll research that another day.
Problem is, my next step is either searching through all the parts I have stashed around the shop for the bushings and links for the front stabilizer bar or install the engine and transmission. I'm not too excited about either, but leaning toward checking out spare parts.
But I also approached a project FOR the workshop. The faucet in the loft kitchenette was getting clogged with sediment. I've tried to unscrew the aerator at the end of the spout by hand, with pliers and protective cloth, with pliers and no cloth, with channel locks, and with 16" pipe wrench -- no luck. So, I figured I'd take the faucet to a plumbing supply place to see what's up. Ooops, couldn't get the supply line to the spout through the hole in the sink. The diverter valve was too big. The lines from the hot and cold valves were 1/4" tubing inserted into a push connector; they came out OK. So, I just cut the tube to the spout to get it out.
If nothing else, and it was about nothing else, I found out that the faucet was made by Delta. So, to the Internet! I found out that the aerator didn't unscrew from the end of the spout like all others I've ever seen; it takes a special wrench, somewhat like a spanner, to pull the aerator out. Took the diverter with short piece of tube attached to Home Depot. Got the wrench, but no luck with diverter. Home Depot suggested a call Delta.
Service rep explained that the spout and tube and diverter were all one piece and Delta didn't sell just that piece. BUT, she could sell me a whole NEW faucet for 50% off. At this point I found out how much the faucet sold for. When I picked the phone back up, she suggested that maybe The Wife had picked out the faucet. I took the Fifth! Here is the current situation:
So now my choice is to try to reconnect the tubing from the spout to the diverter, but it's not 1/4" tubing like from the hot and cold valves, it measures 5/16". Or, I can pay $320 for a new faucet. I'll try the connector route although it will void my warranty!?!? If that doesn't work, I'll have to swallow my pride and cough up for a new faucet.
As guitarist and folk singer Doc Watson would say, "Life gets teejus, don't it?"
In the meantime, I did make some progress on the 442 -- got the rear stabilizer bar positioned with the 2 1/2", 7/16 X 20 bolts. Hard to see, but it's right under the rear axle:
I have eight spacers that would fit between the stabilizer and the "traction" bars, but I'll be danged if I can figure out how you know how many to use. I'll research that another day.
Problem is, my next step is either searching through all the parts I have stashed around the shop for the bushings and links for the front stabilizer bar or install the engine and transmission. I'm not too excited about either, but leaning toward checking out spare parts.
But I also approached a project FOR the workshop. The faucet in the loft kitchenette was getting clogged with sediment. I've tried to unscrew the aerator at the end of the spout by hand, with pliers and protective cloth, with pliers and no cloth, with channel locks, and with 16" pipe wrench -- no luck. So, I figured I'd take the faucet to a plumbing supply place to see what's up. Ooops, couldn't get the supply line to the spout through the hole in the sink. The diverter valve was too big. The lines from the hot and cold valves were 1/4" tubing inserted into a push connector; they came out OK. So, I just cut the tube to the spout to get it out.
If nothing else, and it was about nothing else, I found out that the faucet was made by Delta. So, to the Internet! I found out that the aerator didn't unscrew from the end of the spout like all others I've ever seen; it takes a special wrench, somewhat like a spanner, to pull the aerator out. Took the diverter with short piece of tube attached to Home Depot. Got the wrench, but no luck with diverter. Home Depot suggested a call Delta.
Service rep explained that the spout and tube and diverter were all one piece and Delta didn't sell just that piece. BUT, she could sell me a whole NEW faucet for 50% off. At this point I found out how much the faucet sold for. When I picked the phone back up, she suggested that maybe The Wife had picked out the faucet. I took the Fifth! Here is the current situation:
So now my choice is to try to reconnect the tubing from the spout to the diverter, but it's not 1/4" tubing like from the hot and cold valves, it measures 5/16". Or, I can pay $320 for a new faucet. I'll try the connector route although it will void my warranty!?!? If that doesn't work, I'll have to swallow my pride and cough up for a new faucet.
As guitarist and folk singer Doc Watson would say, "Life gets teejus, don't it?"
xtremek
Well-known member
Glad it's you and not me doing the plumbing.
Hey, xtremek, I feel I'm caught in another "sequential vortex". Don't know if you're interested, but Pat McManus used to write for one of the mechanics or outdoors magazines and was a proponent of the sequential vortex. Check it out:
https://books.google.com/books?id=r...nepage&q=sequential vortex lawn mower&f=false
So, I was making good progress when I got the 5/16” push connector from Amazon – on a Sunday, even! Straightened up the cuts a bit on the tubing and pushed the ends into the connector. Installed the spout back on the sink, inserted the Y-connector, and connected the hot and cold lines.
Pushed the sprayer hose into the diverter and tried to install the “diverter clip”, which broke in two! Well, dang.
Turned on the water anyway; popped the sprayer line right out of the diverter. What was I expecting, really?!
Believe it or not, I found the clip on Amazon with one day delivery. Maybe this will be the “bottom of my vortex”. Or maybe I should have gone fishing. . . .
https://books.google.com/books?id=r...nepage&q=sequential vortex lawn mower&f=false
So, I was making good progress when I got the 5/16” push connector from Amazon – on a Sunday, even! Straightened up the cuts a bit on the tubing and pushed the ends into the connector. Installed the spout back on the sink, inserted the Y-connector, and connected the hot and cold lines.
Pushed the sprayer hose into the diverter and tried to install the “diverter clip”, which broke in two! Well, dang.
Turned on the water anyway; popped the sprayer line right out of the diverter. What was I expecting, really?!
Believe it or not, I found the clip on Amazon with one day delivery. Maybe this will be the “bottom of my vortex”. Or maybe I should have gone fishing. . . .