Baldor Grinder Model ID Help?

[LNKMK8]

Hey guys, I picked up this Baldor grinder this morning at an estate sale and was wondering if you could help with some information. I'm usually chasing after Craftsman Block Grinders, but this one was tool cool to leave behind. There is no plate on the motor, so unsure of motor size, model, age, etc. It otherwise appears to be complete with original stand, eye guards, side shields, and tool rests.

The wheels need to be replaced. I can't believe how quiet and smooth this runs, even with a vintage China wheel packed full of aluminum. It took 2:25 to cost to a stop. It dwarfs my Craftsman 1/2 horse grinder.

Another question... the switch says On/Off on the top, and Slow Off Fast on the bottom. Was there a 2 speed option, where they would just flip the switch if equipped? Thanks!

 

[zkling]

What is the arbor diameter and wheel size (non worn down)?

 

[LNKMK8]

What is the arbor diameter and wheel size (non worn down)?

Wheel with lots of wear measures 8.5", so perhaps 9" when new. Arbor size is 7/8".

 

[zkling]

7/8" arbor would point to a 10" grinder. Is it 1x0 volt or 2x0?

 

[ex_nihilo]

My best guess is 1022WD. This would be 1 hp, single phase, 1800RPM, 10" wheel.
The W is for the cast tool rest and the D for the lighted eye guards.
Based on the switch guard, I think this would definitely have had the silver and blue nametag.
As for the dual speed, I don't know what Baldor did back that far (70's to 80's) but they have in the recent past specially made dual speed buffers for some companies so it is possible. I have a Baldor dual speed 3/4 hp buffer and have seen the same used ones pop up for sale from time to time. From what I understand now that may soon be a thing of the past due to ABB not wanting to cover the warranty on them or something similar.
Just my 2 cents, probably worth less than that.




Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

 

[LNKMK8]

7/8" arbor would point to a 10" grinder. Is it 1x0 volt or 2x0?

Regular 110V grounded plug, with a 110V outlet on the back that both lighted eye shields plug into.

My best guess is 1022WD. This would be 1 hp, single phase, 1800RPM, 10" wheel.
The W is for the cast tool rest and the D for the lighted eye guards.
Based on the switch guard, I think this would definitely have had the silver and blue nametag.
As for the dual speed, I don't know what Baldor did back that far (70's to 80's) but they have in the recent past specially made dual speed buffers for some companies so it is possible. I have a Baldor dual speed 3/4 hp buffer and have seen the same used ones pop up for sale from time to time. From what I understand now that may soon be a thing of the past due to ABB not wanting to cover the warranty on them or something similar.
Just my 2 cents, probably worth less than that.

Excellent information; that makes sense to me... it is not a high speed unit, so 1800rpm sounds right. Wow... 10" wheel Wonder if anyone is making replica tags for these... I'll have to poke around a bit, I know they are out there for the Craftsman grinders.

 

[930dreamer]

I love vintage pedestal grinders. What did you have to pay for it?

 

[mattblast]

Another question... the switch says On/Off on the top, and Slow Off Fast on the bottom. Was there a 2 speed option, where they would just flip the switch if equipped? Thanks!

Baldor used to have a single part for the on/off guards used on buffers and grinders and a slow/off/fast for the polishing lathes. They would install the proper side up depending on the unit. Their buffers and grinders were on/off only. That aluminum switch guard has been discontinued for several years so on restorations if these I just do my best to straighten then out and remove any sharp edges.

The newer units have a recessed switch that goes up/down and have a sticker with the text. They do have an optional steel lock out guard that can be used and will fit the older style with minimal modifications. I’ve used these when the aluminum guard cannot be recovered. They are sold in a 5 pack for maybe $10. If interested I can get you pn.

 

[LNKMK8]

I love vintage pedestal grinders. What did you have to pay for it?

A whole $65... I figured the stand along was worth that an more

Thomas

 

[LNKMK8]

Baldor used to have a single part for the on/off guards used on buffers and grinders and a slow/off/fast for the polishing lathes. They would install the proper side up depending on the unit. Their buffers and grinders were on/off only. That aluminum switch guard has been discontinued for several years so on restorations if these I just do my best to straighten then out and remove any sharp edges.

The newer units have a recessed switch that goes up/down and have a sticker with the text. They do have an optional steel lock out guard that can be used and will fit the older style with minimal modifications. I’ve used these when the aluminum guard cannot be recovered. They are sold in a 5 pack for maybe $10. If interested I can get you pn.

Great information, thank you. This guard seems to be good shape, so I'll just clean it up and reuse. Any idea on a source for a replacement plate/decal?

 

[mattblast]

Any idea on a source for a replacement plate/decal?

I can make replacement labels for you. See the vintage label reproduction thread.

Baldor sells replacement aluminum data plates. Cost is about $150 and you have to be very specific about what you want or they will use the PO # as the model unless you specify otherwise. Labels ship out of Arkansas and take a week or two. You also have to specify to use the template that doesn’t have UL printing or they will scratch that out on final product. It took me 3 tries to get the correct label.

 

[davethorik]

$65? Definite suckage...

 

[LNKMK8]

I can make replacement labels for you. See the vintage label reproduction thread.

Wow, great work. I do recall looking through that thread prior. I'll reach out to inquire about some for this one. Do you happen to have a current drawing for this grinder, or is that something I need to try and source. The one on this one is either complete gone or has been painted over. If painted over, I may be able to carefully remove paint and recover.

I see you have done some great restorations. What are your thoughts on replacing bearings? This ones doesn't appear to have had too hard of a life. I found it in a home basement workshop. It seems to run out real smooth.

 

[930dreamer]

That is a "You ****" for sure, well done.

 

[torqueman2002]

That is a "You ****" for sure, well done.

x2

 

[LNKMK8]

Edit: So I'm learning about bearings this morning... apparently 6206 is the trade number, which makes searching a lot easier. I'm not finding E or E03 as shielding option though.. will any shielded or sealed bearing work? Like a ZZ or 2RS?

Do you guys have a good source for parts? I was thinking of replacing the bearings on this while I have it taken apart to clean and paint. From what I have found, I need part number BG6206E03 but haven't had much luck tracking down a source. I suppose I could call Baldor directly.

 

[torqueman2002]

I've used NTN to cross-reference.
Bearing Look-Up/ NTN Cross-Reference
http://www.ntnamericas.com/en/products/part-interchange-search


I've used Amazon, Grainger, McMaster Carr.

 

[disston]

$65? Is well with in suckage territory.

 

[wmesquite]

Nice find, I've seen them sell for 10 times more in that shape. You'll like it. I have a 1022WD from 1988, later generation with yellow tag- also very smooth. I paid $150, but my wheels were good, so maybe not much different in the end- good 10" wheels are expensive. No matter, you are plenty deep into suckage territory IMHO.

From the look of the grinder itself, I'd agree blue tag. But, yours has a 1960s style pedestal that I've only seen with red tag grinders, also - definitely cooler. I wondered if yours might a last of the red tags, but then from the shape of the tag, it has to have been blue. Assuming your stand is original, your grinder is from the very late 1960s.

I think 2RS bearing shields are better, but these are pretty well protected from swarf and ZZ should be fine.

Stay with name brand non-Chinese wheels to keep the smoothness, but even they can vary. You may be able to find bench grinding wheels with a 7/8" arbor hole, but it is really hard to find a 7/8" to 1" adapter and it is not included in most bushing sets. McMaster at least used to have them, but you have to order them special. You guys might know other sources- or you can just make them. I include the link below only because it has a 7/8" adapter, but the reviews suggest these might not be Norton's best wheels and may need a lot of truing. Or could be an Amazon seller selling seconds at inflated prices, wouldn't be the first time.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NLGLSU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

As a woodworker I upgraded one side to a softer more friable Norton 32A wheel designed for cooler grinding of hardened steels like chisels and plane irons. These are definitely well balanced high quality wheels. Other side is hard and coarse for hogging on anything.

On the dual speeds- I am not aware of a Baldor dual speed 10" bench grinder. But they do make a dual speed 7" grinder, the 7312D, has both 1800 RPM and 3600 RPM speeds. Rare to find used. For a 10", 1800 RPM is standard. I don't think anyone sold a 3600 RPM 10" bench grinder because the wheels aren't rated for it. The SFPM is the same as a 5" 3600 rpm though.

I really like grinding on my 1022WD. The big wheels grind cooler and need dressing less often. You mention having a nice 7"- I like my 7" for producing an optimal hollow grind for freehand sharpening, good for any grinding purpose with a decent amount of power. The 10 is better if you want less of a hollow grind/ a flatter surface, or removing metal fast.
Wade

 

[wmesquite]

I thought a little more about the bearing Spec of BG6206E03. I expect the prefix is for Baldor Grinder. However the suffix strongly suggests a C3 clearance bearing. Modern Baldors run pretty hot, even when lightly while mostly idling for 30 minutes. C3's allow for more thermal expansion; since they are not as "tight"- you might get a smidge more vibration from them than with a normal clearance. Less likely to bind though. Also sealed bearings run a tad hotter. So I'll change my rec to 6206ZZ if you're going to use it lightly and want the smoothest running bearing. 62062RSC3 if you want the most protection from swarf, and 6206ZZC3 if you want to munch a lot of metal. I and many others have used sealed bearings on grinders before- works fine. But I'll use shielded in future, especially for any grinder that runs a little hot.

I glanced at your Craftsman block grinder- wow that is minty. Have you used the tool sharpening attachment?
Wade

 

[LNKMK8]

Hi Wade;

Thanks for the info. This grinder will get used sparingly, likely not more than a couple of minutes at a time. I found some USA made ZZ spec bearings at a reasonable price, so I'll likely go with those. Plan is to take it apart, replace bearings, freshen up the paint, and replace the main label.