Baldor L1430T Wiring Help

[LukeA]

Hello All,

New to the forum...I am hoping someone could guide me in ********* out what detail I am missing in getting my Baldor 5hp single phase L1430T motor up and running on my 80 gallon air compressor. I am presently using a Square D 8911DPSO22V02 starter/contactor wired to a pressure switch. The relay is clicking when I flip the pressure switch so I should be good there. I also have a B28.0 heater on the the switched side of the relay on the L1 feed.

The motor placard diagram shows wires 8 and 1 in series and 5 and 4 in series for standard rotation. (I assume) However, when I run each 120V leg from the contactor to each set of motor wires 8/1 and 5/4 and wire nut together, the motor will not begin to run. Am I misunderstanding the wiring on the motor?

Thanks,
Luke

 

[Mr_fixit]

how about a pic of the wiring diagram? Isn't that on the nameplate?

 

[wyliesdiesels]

ok i looked up a diagram and looks like you have it connected per the diagram.

https://www.baldor.com/catalog/L1430T#tab="nameplate"

Is this a new motor?

Maybe the cent. switch is bad or a cap is a bad.

 

[MattT]

Agree with Wylie it appears to be connected correctly. What is the history on this motor? The blue wire looks to have magic smoke residue on it..............

Anyways next step is download the connection diagram and start ohming out the windings and testing the caps.

https://www.baldor.com/catalog/L1430T#tab="drawings"

 

[Bert_]

It's minor but when you are writing series you really mean parallel.

Also you mention 120v, this motor does not care if there is 120v. It needs 240 between the two hots to run. Check this before you do anything else. Do not measure to ground since it is for safety only, the motor does not use it when running.

 

[mm08822]

Since you didn’t mention any movement or noise from the motor so far, make sure you have voltage at the proper locations first.

1. 240v measured across L1/L2 supplying the starter.
2. With the pressure switch closed – 240v measured across the starter coil. Contactor should be pulled in.
3. 240v measured across T1/T2 at the output of the starter(with pressure sw closed and contactor pulled in)
4. 240v measured at the motor. (The run winding should see 240v independent of the start winding/cent sw/ caps condition.) The run winding should hum and shortly the o/l’s trip on the starter.

 

[LukeA]

Thanks everyone for the responses! I’ll make a few checks tonight as suggested. The motor is brand new from Amazon. I actually received 2 accidentally.. I’ve tried both motors with the same results. More to come...

 

[mm08822]

Thanks everyone for the responses! I’ll make a few checks tonight as suggested. The motor is brand new from Amazon. I actually received 2 accidentally.. I’ve tried both motors with the same results. More to come...

Not likely 2 motors with the same problem. Sounds like problem is upstream.

Also what are the details of the 240v circuit starting at the panel - cb size, 1 pole or 2 pole cb, wire size?

 

[matt_i]

I would wire nut the 2 wires going into the motor J box you show

Using voltmeter measure L1, L2 which is the incoming voltage to the "top side of the contactor". With relay closed (coil pulled in), measure voltage on the "bottom side of the contactor" which should be above the overload heater. And Last measure voltage underneath the overload heater section.

If you find any of these are not 240vac then you have located the problem.

 

[FlaGman]

I ordered and installed one of these motors a couple weeks ago on my shop compressor. I took photos of the wiring before taking off the original motor and wired new one same way, it fired right up. I agree you need to check voltage on those wires, hard to believe you got two bum motors.

 

[LukeA]

Life got in the way the last few weeks so I haven't been able to make much progress. Nonetheless, I was finally able to get a AC volt meter on some of the suggested areas tonight. I have 120V coming in on each leg and when the relay clicks I have 120V on each leg leaving the junction box heading out to the motor. When I place one lead on L1 and one lead on L2 (across power) I seem to read 0V.

In regards to meter hook up... I have the black lead (''green" in the pic) of the meter grounded to a grounded screw in the starter junction box. I then jump to each screw (as marked in the drawing) with red lead and measure each circuit and consistently read 120V. Meter is definitely set to read AC voltage.

Any ideas?

 

[wyliesdiesels]

You should be metering line to line, not line to ground, to makesure you have 240v potential.

 

[pistolpete1313]

Sounds like they are both the same phase

Sent from my Pixel using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[pistolpete1313]

Sanity check, is there 240 out of the wall?

Sent from my Pixel using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[LukeA]

You'll have to forgive me...I'm a DC guy and I've only worked on 120V. After further review I bet it's my breaker arrangement. I have two 120V legs coming into the box, neutral and ground. However, my double 15A breaker only pics up one leg (black wire). They appear to be staggered in the box! Since I have the room I should probably install another 15A breaker for the second leg I'm thinking...

 

[pistolpete1313]

Yep, if they’re both on that tandem it’s picking up the same. The proper way is move the second one down on the left to the bottom right then do a true 2 pole for that motor

 

[LukeA]

Thank you for the help! I think I got this finally!

 

[wyliesdiesels]

You'll have to forgive me...I'm a DC guy and I've only worked on 120V. After further review I bet it's my breaker arrangement. I have two 120V legs coming into the box, neutral and ground. However, my double 15A breaker only pics up one leg (black wire). They appear to be staggered in the box! Since I have the room I should probably install another 15A breaker for the second leg I'm thinking...

Yeah thats not gonna work.

Need a double pole breaker

 

[PCustoms]

Yeah thats not gonna work.

Need a double pole breaker

What Wylie said.

OP, Did you wire this sub panel too?

Attached garage?

Can you post pics of the full sub panel and then of how it is wired back at the main panel?

 

[Bert_]

You mention 120v, this motor does not care if there is 120v. It needs 240 between the two hots to run. Check this before you do anything else. Do not measure to ground since it is for safety only, the motor does not use it when running.

Meaure line to line and look for 240. Measuring to ground or anything other than line to line does not matter.