Ball bearing runners
- Thread starter Georgeinidaho
- Start date
BillK
Well-known member
George,
Cant really see anything in your picture, way out of focus. That being said it really depends on how the present tracks are attached. A lot of less expensive boxes have the tracks spot welded to the box and the drawers. If that is the case I am not sure if I would even want to try.
Cant really see anything in your picture, way out of focus. That being said it really depends on how the present tracks are attached. A lot of less expensive boxes have the tracks spot welded to the box and the drawers. If that is the case I am not sure if I would even want to try.
OP
Georgeinidaho
Well-known member
It's an older matco box, I picked up for cheap. The drawer clips are missing in several drawers. I replaced some but still don't move as they should. I work in a cabinet shop and there are boxes of ball bearing runners that will be perfect, but if spot welded I would have to locate each one drill them out and attach the runners by spot welding in place? It may be a lot of work but worth it? What do you think?
Attachments
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Its not easy at all to do. Most of the time they will not fit due to lack of width.
OP
Georgeinidaho
Well-known member
I am gonna at least try the bottom drawer as a test. If it takes 8 hours and a lot of curse words you may be right.
BillK
Well-known member
I would take one drawer out first and thoroughly clean and lube the slides and tracks. Then see how they feel. I have a 30 year old Mac box that is very similar and when the drawers start getting annoying I just pull them out one at a time and brake clean the slides and they are back to working like new.
CraigStu
Well-known member
I know at 30 yrs old it is a small chance but it might be worth checking w/ MAC. Some manufacturers have kits available to do the upgrade.
BillK
Well-known member
I just took a closer look at mine. I swear it is the same box but with Mac handles and emblem. It looks like the slides are spot welded to the drawers and the box. I think you are asking for trouble trying to convert it.
Slednut
Well-known member
It's actually pretty easy and IMO well worth it to switch to ball bearing slides. Removing the spot welds is the most irritating step but with a pneumatic mini sander the process is fast and doesn't leave a hole in the drawers or cabinet. I mark were the spot welds are with a sharpie and use the round end of the mini sander to grind through the old slides.
I use bucking rivets to secure the new slides to the drawers and pop rivets on the cabinet. BTW if you don't have a mini sander it's one of the handiest tools to have in the shop.
In your case I would only do the full width drawers.
I use bucking rivets to secure the new slides to the drawers and pop rivets on the cabinet. BTW if you don't have a mini sander it's one of the handiest tools to have in the shop.
In your case I would only do the full width drawers.
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Monza Harry
Well-known member
I feel you will be asking for trouble. All of the ball bearing slides I have found are 1/2" thick and the friction slides are ~3/8" thick, problem #1. Number two, you have no drawer latches/locks, detents will not cut it, as you roll this around the drawers will start opening, my friction slides do and I've seen a few roller boxes topple over when moved. In our own shops we may not move them around much, but forgetting to close tightly and lock the box on the rare occasion you do, is likely and dangerous. My work box isn't huge [7 drawer bottom, 7 drawer side box, 11+2 Kennedy uppers weighs in @ 700#'s (loaded) so some real hurt potential]. Let us know if you come up with an answer to these obstacles. Harry
Nutria
Well-known member
My experience as well. I have a lot of weight in my 1970s Matco and Mac drawers, and the original sliders are holding up well. Very happy with them. You should be able to source replacement slider sections, if any of them are bent and can't be straightened. That said, I'll be following along to see how the bearing slides work out if you go that way.
OP
Georgeinidaho
Well-known member
Not my first restore.https://photos.app.goo.gl/WieP5hFnLPKDWQAo8
OP
Georgeinidaho
Well-known member
what everyone saying .....sounds like a challenge to me
OP
Georgeinidaho
Well-known member
My first restoration was a 7 drawer 1962 Kennedy machinist box. It went well and I made 160 in profit. I think this can't be worse, there is no felt in the drawers. Lol
yhprum
Well-known member
I’ve got the same matco bottom with the smaller one on top. Had them since 1982. Whilst I like ball bearing sliders, in this case the juice ain’t t worth the squeeze to me. I haven’t even properly cleaned and lubed them like every one recommends. Having said that I wish I had another bottom that I could tie together with mine.
rsanter
Well-known member
Take the drawer out.
Feel along the inside of the slide track and you will feel the diviot for the spot weld.
Use a die drinker to thin belt sander to thin the spot weld and break it off.
The new drawer glides will attach with pop rivets
Before doing this verify that you have the room to add the drawer glides. I have seen that many quality boxes have the room, cheaper ones may not.
You will also have to do some math for the spacing and make spacers to properly place the glides, but working in a cabinet shop I’m betting you know how to do that
Feel along the inside of the slide track and you will feel the diviot for the spot weld.
Use a die drinker to thin belt sander to thin the spot weld and break it off.
The new drawer glides will attach with pop rivets
Before doing this verify that you have the room to add the drawer glides. I have seen that many quality boxes have the room, cheaper ones may not.
You will also have to do some math for the spacing and make spacers to properly place the glides, but working in a cabinet shop I’m betting you know how to do that