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Ball Joint kit needed

JASTECH

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I am thinking of getting a kit so that I can do the ball joints in the auto's. Looking at this one so far, what do you suggest? And yes I could make a few bucks doing others when/if the need arises. I use to have/use pickle forks, learn me what is out there and good to use please.

ATD 21 Piece Ball Joint Set & OTC Kit
 

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ra42mario

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They are all virtually the same. I have had the Harbor Freight kit for years with no problems and probably have done over 50 ball joints on the same press this year alone. The key is just keep the big bolt on any of these presses lubbed up, and make sure the Retaining Ring/Clip (if it has one) is off the ball joint before you try to press it out.

If your press is on straight, retainer removed, and going the right direction, they drive right out. I live in the rust belt and never have any problems. Sloppiness is your only enemy.
 

e-tek

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I just used one like this to get the balls out of the Cougar - worked like a charm!

8004135.jpg


I hate pickle forks - so why do we always seeing the guys on Powerblock using them??
 

ihateminimumwage

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Sad to say, but yeah; The Harbor Freight kit works fine. Returned mine after doing the ball joints on my Thunderbird.
 

purplezr2

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I just used one like this to get the balls out of the Cougar - worked like a charm!

8004135.jpg


I hate pickle forks - so why do we always seeing the guys on Powerblock using them??

They are fast and if you are replacing the joint why worry about using a slower method. Also the type pictured will not take a large load.
 
OP
J

JASTECH

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purple, The one I have pic'd won't take a large load aka "tight balls" not trying to be funny. What is a good price on what I am looking at? Or should I buy more cucumber prongs (pickle forks)?
 

OEXL16B

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^ Isn't the kit you linked to supposed to be for ball joints that are pressed into the control arm? AKA, Ball Joint Press?
 

signcrafter

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There are tools for two different jobs being talked about here. Pickle forks and the little press e-tek linked to are used to pop the ball joint out of the knuckle. The press the OP linked to is used to press out the pressed in ball joints from the control arm. At least that is how I use them.
 

SMKS

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Ball joint presses like the OP posted are also very handy for pressing in bushings and other things. I've rented the one from my local Advance several times.

To the OP-I've really liked the larger set they rent at Advance Auto. It's made in Taiwan and has lots of adapters. Now I can't remember the brand. It's ridiculously priced at Advance, but the same brand is sold on Amazon and other sites for way less.

Might be worth a look next time you're at or near an Advance Auto.
 
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Jason280

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To the OP-I've really liked the larger set they rent at Advance Auto. It's made in Taiwan and has lots of adapters. Now I can't remember the brand. It's ridiculously priced at Advance, but the same brand is sold on Amazon and other sites for way less

If I'm not mistaken, the one I saw at the local Advance is made/marketed under the "Powerbuilt" brand. I looked at one a couple of weeks ago, as I need to change the joints in my '96 2500 diesel truck. I have this kit from Harbor Freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-ball-joint-u-joint-c-frame-press-service-kit-38335.html

...but it doesn't have all the necessary adapters. I believe I can add the following kit:

http://www.harborfreight.com/14-piece-master-ball-joint-adapter-set-66958.html

..and have pretty much the same thing that is in the Powerbuilt set. Any reason that wouldn't be enough to do the joints in a Dodge Truck or early '90s Wrangler?
 

2JZGTESC300

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There's a master kit out there that has Ball Joint Removal and Pitman Arms as well. 1-2 Ball Joint Removing/Pitman Arm Removing jobs will pay the set of tool already. I have a set, don't recall the brand.
 

OEXL16B

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OEXL, I want to replace the worn ball joints in my 88' F-350, Scout's and CJ-5.

The easiest way to go about it is to use application specific tools that are listed in the service manual. If you don't want to buy a service manual, ALLDATA is the way to go. They'll tell you how to replace the ball joints and exactly which tools you need with the tool's part number listed in the instructions. Allot of the factory service tools are available on eBay for substantial discounts.
 

bmwpower

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They are fast and if you are replacing the joint why worry about using a slower method. Also the type pictured will not take a large load.

Picture is deceiving. Those things are pretty big and beefy.
 

softailgarage

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The easiest way to go about it is to use application specific tools that are listed in the service manual. If you don't want to buy a service manual, ALLDATA is the way to go. They'll tell you how to replace the ball joints and exactly which tools you need with the tool's part number listed in the instructions. Allot of the factory service tools are available on eBay for substantial discounts.

Thats ALLDATA ONLINE, $160.00 a month. Dont go with the old bootleg copies, they dont tell u jack. Also, if your going to make this a second job, go after Ford trucks and SUV's with over 100k miles. unless they've already been replaced, both uppers and lowers will be bad, guaranteed. Use anything but Ford for replacement (the problem is a design flaw in Ford ball joints). If you decide to get into it a little more, BMW control arm bushings will make you alot of money as well.
 

purplezr2

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Picture is deceiving. Those things are pretty big and beefy.

I own one they and no that beef in my opinion, big enough for audi/vw front ends, I would not use it on trucks.

I bought the specific press when I did my truck and it worked awesome.
 

signcrafter

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I don't know where you're getting that from. I pay $16.95 per YEAR for one vehicle.

160 a month I'm guessing is the cost for all access alldata that shops use and can get info on all vehicles, not just one vehicle for a year.

I just go to my local library and use alldata they have for free.
 

2JZGTESC300

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I have ALLDDATA Online. From Year 1966 to 2011. From 1966 to 1981 they are preloaded on CD's. The 2010 and 2011 list of cars doesn't list much information. $120 a month is the rate for us, that was through a sales rep. It has information on majority of cars out there along with labor hours.
 

e-tek

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I own one they and no that beef in my opinion, big enough for audi/vw front ends, I would not use it on trucks.

I bought the specific press when I did my truck and it worked awesome.

Not sure about that - I own the Harbor Freight Kit (from Princess Auto here) and have yet to use it because the speed separator works so well....Guess I'll find out if I ever have to do a big truck!
 
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JASTECH

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I plan on changing the Dana's in my Scout II's so will most likely use aftermerket ball joints that are much stronger/stouter. But this will be after this replacement. The set I posted will do all I need to?
 

RECox286

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Honestly, any one of the presses available will do the job. The trick is

to get the one with the most adapters. HF comes to mind. They offer

one of the less expensive kits, and an add on of adapters that will do the

job without breaking the bank. I have an old, brutally basic OTC kit in

my inventory, but then I only need it for the Asto/Safari vans, of which we

have a small fleet.

Uncle Bob
 
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