Ball joint Press question

[Chuck McB]

I've got to replace both upper ball joints on both of my Dodge Dakotas and spending $471 each for each truck ain't going to happen so what is the best deal on the press out there?

 

[anodyne33]

I used the Harbor Freight press to do all four on a Jeep and it worked fine. Of course, I bent the hell out of it through user error but I went out and got a replacement and it was just fine.

 

[ovilla]

I used the Harbor Freight press to do all four on a Jeep and it worked fine. Of course, I bent the hell out of it through user error but I went out and got a replacement and it was just fine.

What exactly did you bend? Your press or the ball joints?

 

[crewchief888]

HF is probably the cheapest you'll find.

until recently, i always used the sledgehammer/socket method,
i picked up a HF press to do several ball joint jobs out in the field on some diesel powered utility vehicles, that have been used for 5 or 6 years plowing snow and salting, and are rusted bad.
the HF C frame will bend if you arent lined up properly,or start beating on it with an impact.
I found the best way to apply some pressure by hand, with a wrench, then give the A arm a swift smack with a hammer, continue tightening and hammering until it pops loose.
install the same way.

saved me 1/2 hr or so per side, and my shoulder is much happier not swinging a hammer.

 

[wreckerman5357]

The HF unit will be fine for what you have planned. I have one and have used it for all sorts of **** it was not designed for, it is a very useful tool to have. If i was a mechanic instead of a bodyman I would own a nicer version but it has worked well on my rigs and the occasional need I have for it on a customer rig. I have had it for about 4 years.

 

[The Dutchman]

here's the Harbor freight ball joint kit I have:

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-ball-joint-u-joint-c-frame-press-service-kit-38335.html

One of the guys I worked with had this OTC set:

http://www.otctools.com/products/ball_joint_service_kit

They're identical, dimension-wise, anyway.

You can't buy the individual parts for the HF (US General), but you can for the OTC set. Just click on the brochure link on the above OTC URL.

In addition, as much as I can tell, the following HF (US General) add on set:

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=ball+joint+adapter+set

is identical to this:

http://www.otctools.com/products/master_ball_joint_adapter_set

 

[srmofo]

If my memory serves me well tonight, I believe the upper BJs on those are riveted on....so make sure you have the ability to cut rivets. Cutoff wheel ,cut an X in the center of the rivet, then use air hammer/chisel to split the top of the river, then use a pointed chisel to push the body out.

I use the OTC but there are cheaper options for your limited use...parts stores even rent them out

 

[55bigblockcid]

Go to an Autozone parts store and they will lend you the tool for a deposit.They give deposit back when tool is returned.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

For a reasonable cost alternative, buy the OTC press and get the adapters from HF.

 

[Murphy4570]

The HF unit will be fine for what you have planned. I have one and have used it for all sorts of **** it was not designed for, it is a very useful tool to have. If i was a mechanic instead of a bodyman I would own a nicer version but it has worked well on my rigs and the occasional need I have for it on a customer rig. I have had it for about 4 years.

Most common thing I use that press for is u-joints. I do more u-joints than balljoints sometimes.

If you want something slightly better than the HF ****, look into KD brand. Or if you are batshit crazy and don't care about price, look up the cost of Snap-On brand. Ridiculously expensive.

 

[greasemonkey44]

last dakota i did had riveted lower ball joints and i think riveted uppers; it was a 98 iirc

 

[meal4zombies]

If you get the HF ball joint press, make sure you lube the heck out of the threads because they will strip FAST. I did less than 5 sets of ball joints with it and the threads were nearly gone and popping, didn't advance whatsoever when turned. Come to find out you had to oil them. On my next press I just slabbed some grease across the whole screw. Or you can just rent one from AZ or AA, about $100-$150 depending on the kit. Usually come with a crappy set of cups so you'll likely need to order your own adapter kit separately. The adapters for my Taurus was $90, and the one for my ex's Civic was $80.

 

[Daves69]

Go to an Autozone parts store and they will lend you the tool for a deposit.They give deposit back when tool is returned.

Advance and Oreilly's also loan tools

 

[anodyne33]

What exactly did you bend? Your press or the ball joints?

I bent the press itself going the wrong direction. I just wasn't paying enough attention and set it up wrong and went with force before brain power.

And I'd love to try to OTC adapters because the ones from HF were a little difficult to keep centered correctly. I'm not sure if that's across the board or just their (HF) design.

 

[oldtools]

If you get the HF ball joint press, make sure you lube the heck out of the threads because they will strip FAST. I did less than 5 sets of ball joints with it and the threads were nearly gone and popping, didn't advance whatsoever when turned. Come to find out you had to oil them. On my next press I just slabbed some grease across the whole screw. Or you can just rent one from AZ or AA, about $100-$150 depending on the kit. Usually come with a crappy set of cups so you'll likely need to order your own adapter kit separately. The adapters for my Taurus was $90, and the one for my ex's Civic was $80.

The thread of every press and puller should be lube. I wonder strenght wise if there is any difference between the HF and OTC set.

 

[Stuart in MN]

What year and model is the truck? I just looked at Rock Auto's website; not knowing what year I picked 1999 out of a hat, and found they sell complete control arms with ball joints and bushings installed for less than $100 each. It may be simpler to go that way rather than trying to press in new ball joints.

 

[bluebolt]

What year and model is the truck? I just looked at Rock Auto's website; not knowing what year I picked 1999 out of a hat, and found they sell complete control arms with ball joints and bushings installed for less than $100 each. It may be simpler to go that way rather than trying to press in new ball joints.

My thoughts exactly plus you get new bushings.

 

[Chuck McB]

Who or what is Rock Auto? I have seen their ads on tv but don't know anythig about them.

 

[bluebolt]

Who or what is Rock Auto?

WWW.rockauto.com. I buy plenty of stuff from them, always been happy.

 

[waterboy12]

google Rock Auto. There a parts supplier. They usually have whatever your looking for and at very reasonable costs

 

[rmsg0040]

google Rock Auto. There a parts supplier. They usually have whatever your looking for and at very reasonable costs

+ they always got a 5% off promo every month

 

[gatewaysysop]

I'll cast another vote in favor of the HF set, especially with the adapter set they have. Sometimes they go on sale (or used to?) and they're a pretty good deal for what you pay. I know I could probably buy better for more money, but for my purposes, that's probably overkill and I haven't had issues with the HF versions yet.

 

[theoldwizard1]

If my memory serves me well tonight, I believe the upper BJs on those are riveted on....so make sure you have the ability to cut rivets. Cutoff wheel ,cut an X in the center of the rivet, then use air hammer/chisel to split the top of the river, then use a pointed chisel to push the body out.

Years and Years and YEARS ago, I did riveted upper ball joints on a car with a cold chisel and a hammer. Just shave a small amount at a time off the top until you are flush and then hit what is left with a punch. Actually not to bad. (Of course I was 18 at the time.)

Wear eye and ear protection !

 

[rodm1]

If my memory serves me well tonight, I believe the upper BJs on those are riveted on....so make sure you have the ability to cut rivets. Cutoff wheel ,cut an X in the center of the rivet, then use air hammer/chisel to split the top of the river, then use a pointed chisel to push the body out.

I use the OTC but there are cheaper options for your limited use...parts stores even rent them out

It took me about 12 hours including shocks to cut the rivets out. Get a very good air compressor and a Snap On PH3050 with a couple of chisels and a punch. Snap-on BJP1 is the only press that will hold up IMHO and if you buy all the fittings for the others makes it's cheaper.

 

[Chuck McB]

Thanks Guys for all of the input. I think I will go with Rock Auto since one of my Dakotas (2001) has 265000 miles on it and everything should be worn out! I'll let you guys know how it goes.