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Ball joint problem

Coach James

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I apologize if this is in the wrong place. I started to replace the upper control arms on my Nissan Frontier this morning. Ordered UCA from Rock auto. Went to put on the new UCA and the threaded portion of the ball joint is too short to go through the steering knuckle. Do I need to press it down some how to get it to go through?

I emailed RockAuto and asked if the part numbers were correct, but no answer yet.

I really don't want to put the old UCA back on.

Thanks

Coach
 
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lazer50

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Aug 12, 2016
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east central indiana
I apologize if this is in the wrong place. I started to replace the upper control arms on my Nissan Frontier this morning. Ordered UCA from Rock auto. Went to put on the new UCA and the threaded portion of the ball joint is too short to go through the steering knuckle. Do I need to press it down some how to get it to go through?

I emailed RockAuto and asked if the part numbers were correct, but no answer yet.

I really don't want to put the old UCA back on.

Thanks

Coach
Google customer support they have a help phone number

Sent from my SM-S120VL using Tapatalk
 

md21722

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Sometimes the boot needs to be forced to compress. You should not need any press or anything like that. If you can get a few threads through the just tighten up the nut. However, if the part is one of the super cheap ones, it may very well be a bad part.
 

rjvjeepster

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Aug 18, 2016
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If you can get the nut on there by a few threads and start tightening it, that will pull everything into alignment. Happens when I replace the UBJs on my Jeep. Is the BJ sitting flush with the knuckle? I'm thinking either the stud length or taper is wrong.
 

chrisexv6

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CT
I apologize if this is in the wrong place. I started to replace the upper control arms on my Nissan Frontier this morning. Ordered UCA from Rock auto. Went to put on the new UCA and the threaded portion of the ball joint is too short to go through the steering knuckle. Do I need to press it down some how to get it to go through?

I emailed RockAuto and asked if the part numbers were correct, but no answer yet.

I really don't want to put the old UCA back on.

Thanks

Coach

What year Frontier, what part number ball joint?

I did the ball joints on my '01 Frontier a few years ago and it turned into a project-and-a-half but it wasnt because the parts didnt fit.

They are meant to be pressed in, at least in my truck. In lieu of pressing them in, you can buy/rent/borrow a ball joint service kit which will give you what you need to install without an actual hydraulic press.

Interestingly enough, Nissan says the ball joints are NOT replaceable (and they dont sell just the joint). You are supposed to buy new control arms with the joint already installed.

I used Moog replacements and they worked great except for the fact that I couldnt open the snap rings (used as emergency type retainers) because they were way too thick.

EDIT: reread the post, its possible you already have them pressed in all the way? If you still cant make it through the knuckle, does the new UCA look the same as the old?
 
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Coach James

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I was replacing the entire UCA with a ball joint already installed. The threads did not go through the steering knuckle at all so no way to get a nut on any threads.

I ordered MEVOTECH GS30173 for the upper right and MEVOTECH GS30172 for upper left. The ball joints in the Rock Auto pics do not look like the ball joints on the ones I was sent. The pic is what I was sent.

For now, I put the old UCA back on. At least I can drive it until I get this sorted out.

Coach
 

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chrisexv6

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The control arm looks different too, yes?

The parts you ordered look to be a for a 98-04 2WD Frontier. The one you have in your pic looks more like the ones on my truck (2001, 4WD)
 

anndel

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Hawaii, USA
I did my 1993 Toyota 4x4 last year but I bought OEM Toyota. I placed them side by side to compare and they matched perfectly. When I installed them the screw was short where I had to use the ball joint puller in reverse to push the BJ in so I could get the castle nut threaded. Lots of f___k this and that helped.
 

jobo1004

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May 18, 2014
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Kansas City, MO
Does the black piece that I've drawn an arrow to come off? I've seen ball joints that have a hard plastic cover on them for shipping and then the traditional boot is underneath that.
 

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Coach James

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I'll be a # )&*^$**(^&%(^)&^)&*^)(*^_(^*)(^)(^_)(^&@#*&_)&&^**(%(%^%$#^%$#&(^)*&^)*&^*&)


jobo nailed it. I have never in my life seen a cover on a ball joint like that. Damn it all! A whole morning wasted over a plastic cover.

I feel like an idiot.

I don't deserve to be on GJ anymore.

Thanks jobo!! Too late to do it today, but tomorrow morning, back to work.

Coach
 
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SMKS

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I was also just going to point out the protective cover you forgot to remove. They're actually pretty common.

Well, you learned something today. Nothing wrong with that.
 
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Coach James

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I was also just going to point out the protective cover you forgot to remove. They're actually pretty common.

Well, you learned something today. Nothing wrong with that.

I'm sure I'll take some razzing over this. Three other vehicles I did this on and none had covers. Oh well. Laugh at myself and go back to work.

Coach
 

chrisexv6

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Indy shop quoted me $465 to replace one UCA. Also quoted me $300+ to replace all four shocks. I got 4 KYB's for under $200.

Two UCA's were $99, including shipping, from Rockauto.

Coach

What I regret most about when I did mine is that I didnt just get loaded UCAs. Saved some $$ getting just the ball joints, but it would have been nice to have all new bushings at the same time too.
 

md21722

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Ahh yes the others responded first, the cover comes off and is thrown in the recycle bin. At least you're not the guy that thought the tapered joints were too tight and put saran wrap on the taper to make them easy to remove. :Help:
 

rjvjeepster

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Aug 18, 2016
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x2! Learned something today! Never have seen the covers. Never have bought a loaded control arm, got custom ones made for my Jeep with replaceable BJs and bushings.

This doesn't even compare to any of the dumb things I've done. This ain't even dumb.
 
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Coach James

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Ahh yes the others responded first, the cover comes off and is thrown in the recycle bin. At least you're not the guy that thought the tapered joints were too tight and put saran wrap on the taper to make them easy to remove. :Help:

Well, I don't feel quite so dumb after reading that. Nope, no saran wrap in my tool box.

Chrisex, the other vehicles I did, I bought loaded control arms for as well. Buying them off Amazon or Rockauto, I paid a bit more for the entire CA, but in all the cases, the bushings were pretty well shot in the old arms and needed to be replaced anyway.

Coach
 

theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
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SE MI
Indy shop quoted me $465 to replace one UCA. Also quoted me $300+ to replace all four shocks. I got 4 KYB's for under $200.

Two UCA's were $99, including shipping, from Rockauto.

I replaced the inner and outer tie rods, adjusters and center link on my '98 E150 and saved over $300. Interesting drive to get the alignment shop.
 
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Coach James

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I replaced the inner and outer tie rods, adjusters and center link on my '98 E150 and saved over $300. Interesting drive to get the alignment shop.

I marked the camber bolts with red nail polish, (wife's, not mine) and tried to get them back as close to the marks as possible when I put the old UCA back on. When I drove it, it didn't seem too bad.


As long as I'm sharing my automotive insanity, here's some more. Among the tools I used yesterday were a HF breaker bar, a Blue Hawk ratchet and a Blue Hawk socket. It's true!

I did redeem myself somewhat by using a Craftsman Pro 22mm wrench to hold the bolt heads while I ratcheted the nuts back on, and a Proto ratchet to remove the ball joint nut.

The Blue Hawk ratchet has the smallest head of any of my 1/2" ratchets and I needed the clearance for the rear UCA bolt. My only shallow 22mm socket is a Blue Hawk. Someone gave me the BH stuff for Christmas a while back. It works so I use it.

Coach
 
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