Hello everyone I ran across this site lookin online for some tips on removing a ball joint. Everyone here seemed pretty smart on knowin different tips for differnt jobs so I figured I'd sign up. So here's my question and sorry if I'm in the wrong section but figured I'd start here. I'm replacing the ball joints on my 98 Chevy Tahoe 4x4 2 door. I went to advance and purchased a ball joint seperator tool but noticed when I got home with it, it was to small for my ball joints. It wouldn't open up wide enough to get on the bottom of the ball joint stud. So I took it back and they said they didn't have one bigger. My question is, is there anywhere I can purchase one that'll work for my truck? I'd like to have one for the simple fact as I done one on one of my co workers truck one day and it was a major pain to get off. I knocked around the knuckle with a hammer and run a pickle fork up in there with no luck. The tops where easy it was the bottom ones given us the most trouble. After a whole bunch of heat and beat they finally come out. Now I will be doin mine at home with no access to hear and wanted to pick up one of these tools as I've heard they work like a charm. So... Anyone know where I can find one or a better way to go about getting these off? Thanks for any help guys.
Ball joint separator tool
- Thread starter Loren871
- Start date
bobemmerich
Well-known member
If you have a Harbor Freight nearby,
http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...rvice-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-60827.html
I have this one and it's good enough for occasional use.
http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...rvice-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-60827.html
I have this one and it's good enough for occasional use.
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JJThrasher
Well-known member
Mini sledge and beat it like a red headed ........ A pickle fork works good also.
goodysgotacuda
Well-known member
I'm not sure he was looking for the ball joint replacement tool, but it does work decently for that job.
What you need to try:
I use this one to separate the ball joint from the knuckle. Load it up with some tension [lube the threads] and smack it with a hammer to pop the joint. 100x better than a pickle fork. I've used mine on dozens of JK Wrangler Dana 44 ball joints and tie rod ends. Note the HF version has two pin locations for larger joints.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html
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I'm not sure he was looking for the ball joint replacement tool, but it does work decently for that job.
What you need to try:
I use this one to separate the ball joint from the knuckle. Load it up with some tension [lube the threads] and smack it with a hammer to pop the joint. 100x better than a pickle fork. I've used mine on dozens of JK Wrangler Dana 44 ball joints and tie rod ends. Note the HF version has two pin locations for larger joints.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html
That's the tool I had exactly but an autocraft version or whatever it is advance sells. You think this one will be big enough for my truck? The advance model still had about a half inch from being able to clamp it on the bottom of the ball joint stud and castle nut. I hear this tool works wonders along side a hammer to hit the side of the knuckle with.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Get a bigger hammer.
In the word of Eric The Car Guy "hit what the stud goes through". HARD. A half a dozen good hard hits with a good size hammer should do it.
Now you guys got me wondering if I should get one period lol I have plenty of hand tools different sized hammers etc but I guess I've still got that previous experience in my mind and wanna be prepared this time. They might pop right out or be another nightmare...it's the latter that worries me
Loosen the nuts to the point where you can turn them with your fingers but leave enough of the threads engaged so it'll hold the arm in the event it pops off when you're not around (spring pressure) then soak the studs with penetrating fluid and let it sit overnight if you can swing the time. Then normally a nice wack with a BFH will do the trick just fine. That one tool with the pivot works like a champ, but that particular one is too small, you'll need the one with two pivot point locations. Miller Tool sells them. Now when you go to reassemble you'll need to clean the **** out of the receiver with brake cleaner. Once that penetrating fluid coats it, you'll never get the stub to tighten again. Make sure it's completely clean as well as the ball joint stud too.
Don't follow this universally. Some control arms/knuckles you will destroy by beating on them. It also doesn't always work and you need a ball joint separator like posted above.
anndel
Well-known member
I had to remove a joint to get the steering damper off so went to O'Reilly's and got the Performance Tool $15 BJ puller which did the job.
redmondjp
Well-known member
Yes, I have a problem with beating on aluminum control arms or spindles with a BFH. Back in the day when everything was steel, it was a different story.
Fender1325
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2014
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Ive used the ball joint seperator tool (C-clamp with cups) with good success.....a BFH helps and also a pickle fork helps. Some are actually pressed in to the point theyre not supposed to come out (if Im not mistaken), I think it was the upper ball joints on my f150 I did, I just bought moog upper control arms with them pressed in already. What you might call a non serviceable joint.
shoggoth80
Well-known member
3lb drill hammer. That usually does the trick. Lol. At least if you want to reuse the joint. Not had very good luck with a pickle fork.
Murphy4570
Well-known member
Use a pickle fork and a good air hammer. It'll pop apart easily.
APEowner
Well-known member
You don't want to do it with modern aluminum spindles but for everything else the big hammer technique is the way to go. The idea is to hit the joint in a way that flexes the tapered hole. That requires that you drive against something. To pop tie rod ends out you drive towards the spindle. When you can you drive towards the spindle to pop ball joints out but sometimes you can't do that so you hold h heavy hammer up against one side while you whack the other. Folks with more coordination than I will sometimes swing both hammers simultaneously against opposite sides.
Milton Shaw
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- Feb 11, 2011
- Messages
- 4,845
Nobody else has said this but make sure the ball joint is unloaded when you do this if the ball joint is in compression. This means that the ball joint is above the spindle and the weight/prssure of the spring is holding the ball joint together. I don't think this is the case on the Tahoe but haven't seen one in years to know. A lot of cars were built like this and would not show slack in the ball joint until you picked the car up by the control arms. Some vehicles the ball joints unload when lifted by a frame lift. I remember the early mustangs that would show about 1/4 inch play in upper ball joints.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Aluminum spindles are forged. Highly unlikely you would crack one, but ...
If you have this, try a soft faced dead blow hammer.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Always a good idea to re-install the castle nut half way.
APEowner
Well-known member
Yeah, I don't think you'll crack one but I've seen folks mushroom the heck out of them without the joint popping. Some of them have steel inserts and whacking the aluminum doesn't seem to do anything except beat up the spindle. I don't know which ones you can hit and which ones you can't so I prefer to not do it on any of them.