ball joint seperator (fork) for air hammer

[PoorOwner]

Hey looking for a new tool to remove ball joint (tie rod end from control arm end)
Will this work?

http://www.harborfreight.com/15-16-inch-pneumatic-ball-joint-separator-66315.html

I figure a few localized impact from the air hammer would do the trick.
Hubs are already removed so the arms are kind of flapping up and down. Is there a need to brace the arm with a jack when using this with air hammer?

 

[Professur]

There's one sitting in my toolbox that I use for everything except tie rods and ball joints.

For them, I apply this guy ..
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

to add a little pressure (not a lot) and then whack the side where the bolt goes through with a 2lbs hammer. Pops loose every time.

 

[wafrederick]

If the ball joint is in good still,don't use it.It rips the boot.start the nut by a few threads and hit the side of the knuckle with a BFH.should come out after 3 hits with the BFH.The cheap air chisel bits don't last in the very powerful air hammers.

 

[Raven GT]

I just use a five foot straight crowbar, to apply pressure, en whack where the bolt goes through with a hammer. Forks f- up the rubbers on the bal joints.
The clamp model i had slip, and launch itself, narrowly missing my head, but destroying the workshop radio.

 

[Jswain]

I used a ktool one just like that on my 96 4runner and it worked like a charm for 4 bj's and the two tierods. As said it ruins the boots but if you are replacing it is very fast. I picked mine up off eBay for I think 20 or 30 bucks, not bad for made in USA. No visible damage to the tool after use either.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

My HF bits (including that pickle-fork style one linked above), have all done well in my matco long barrel.

FWIW, it will destroy the boot, no way around it. I save the pickle fork attachment for when BFH beating on the knuckle fails.

 

[justme-]

I use pickle forks more for removing bearings and pulleys from shafts than ball joints and tie rods unless the joint is total trash because of the boot damage. Even then some pressure and a hammer, or driving against the nut on the threaded end worked just fine 90% of the time. Now I use my c-frame press. (cheap acquisition from a car dealership auction, but my OTC looks and feels exactly like HF's c-frame.)
Also FWIw, I have a HF pickle fork (old fashioned one) that has served me well for around 10 years

 

[PoorOwner]

I was also told to thread the castle nut on a few turns then smack it with a hammer. Then bring out the bigger tools if it doesn't work.

 

[Todd.Brock]

A pickle fork is available for rent from Autozone. It has always served me well. With the rental, you buy the tool and then get a refund when you return it. I just kept it.

 

[FunkyfullWidth]

I was also told to thread the castle nut on a few turns then smack it with a hammer. Then bring out the bigger tools if it doesn't work.

I think it was Ed on wheeler dealers that showed me that trick! Just make sure the castle part is lower then the top of the threads. You don't want to bend it. I've had great luck with using the air hammer attachments. Sometimes you run the risk of breaking the knuckle with too big a' hammer. If your careful you won't rip the boot, but on some cars it's unavoidable.

Professur,
For them, I apply this guy ..
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html

Does that actually work? I've thought about getting one for those stubborn ball joints.

One trick I use is an air hammer with a hammer end on it. I'll wedge a prybar between the knuckle and the control arm and apply pressure, then use the prybar as a guide for the air hammer... Then blast away. Usually does it.

 

[PoorOwner]

Just report back one side just came out with a slight tap on the castle nut but the other side would not, and I started damaging the nut and thread especially when I put decided to put the hammer attachment on the air hammer, it really bent the heck out of the nut and stud. And it didn't come off.
I didn't need the part to survive but not recommended.

Next time I would like to get the squeeze one where you tighten the nut as shown above, even If it may damage the boot

 

[Professur]

Professur,
For them, I apply this guy ..
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html

Does that actually work? I've thought about getting one for those stubborn ball joints.

I can't attest to the HF version, but the better quality one I have hasn't let me down yet. Even used it to press out a snapped flush lug on the front hub of a Caravan. Tighten, tap, tighten, tap, tighten, tap, pop. Everytime you tap, the tension on the drive screw slackens. Don't try to use it as a press.. just to apply pressure for when you tap.

 

[owenst7]

Ball joints are not designed to be in tension. A pickle fork will also very likely damage the joint. I use a lever style seperator with excellent success. They arent much more than a pickle fork. There are also tiny pitman arm puller looking things that work well for tie rod and drag link ends. Hitting the side of the knuckle while you have the seperator loaded up works every time.

 

[colin39]

Never used one I grab a fbh every time, they never fail