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Ball Joint & Tie Rod separator DIY

cannuck

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Nov 30, 2021
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Not sure this belongs in general tool, fab techniques or what did you do in garage today, so going with first.
Changing wheel bearings in wife's Q7 (at 50k miles!!!!) and manual calls for a bunch of special tools. I usually have something that will work, but my tie rod (small) and ball joint (fairly large I thought) tools were just way too small for the big Audi. Manual called for T10187 separator, but I could not find one in Canada, nor an equivalent. So, needing the car back I thought I would just throw something together in a hurry. Please excuse the rather ugly welds, but objective will full penetration without making bead on inside, so everthing had to be jigged and tacked before final welds, and those went over tacks or done in unfavourable position. Also, very limited in time to worry about appearance. Realized when I got into trial fit, no way to see that push bolt (5/8 UNF Gr8 threaded rod) was squarely on ball joint or tie rod bolt (BOTH 32mm wide), so I just hole sawed a view window. Material for top and bottom plate 3/8 x 2 1/2 flat bar, sawed and ground for cutout and plama cut outside round bit. round bit is 2" sch 80 pipe split in half and squashed about 3/16 wider with original planned 1/4 x 3/4 extension (one side now 1/4 x 1). Tool works really well, and had I know that up front I might have tried to make it pretty, but clock is ticking.
 

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cannuck

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Tool looks fine to me. I'm sure it's way beefier than whatever Audi specd.
The Audi (i.e. SnapOn) is a heavy "C" frame loaded in bending. Making the semi-circle + skirts means mine is loaded in tension so can be quite a bit lighter. The difficulty/magic is making sure the press bolt hits dead center on the ball joint stem.
 

aka Larry

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Nice work man.

Every time I see my buddy smack the control with a hammer and the ball-joint just pops out, I'm always amazed. I've tried it many times, with different hammers, and have NEVER got that method to work. :headscrat
 
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cannuck

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Nice work man.

Every time I see my buddy smack the control with a hammer and the ball-joint just pops out, I'm always amazed. I've tried it many times, with different hammers, and have NEVER got that method to work. :headscrat
It works, but not all installations have the room for one clear swing and a larger backup "anvil" hammer opposite. Worse than that: if my wife saw me hit her car ANYWHERE with a 2 lb. ball peen I would be very far up **** creek with no paddle.
 

N8sToolz

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Oct 27, 2022
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Nice work man.

Every time I see my buddy smack the control with a hammer and the ball-joint just pops out, I'm always amazed. I've tried it many times, with different hammers, and have NEVER got that method to work. :headscrat
For most of my career I didn't think there was any other way than using a hammer. I finally got a kit of removers because I started seeing more aluminum parts, they deform much more than steel.
 
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cannuck

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Decided to remove the entire upright so I can do press work in my 20ton, so that meant removing lower ball joint. It end in a stud and nut inside of a "cage" open to opposite sides, so prefer to hold from 2 side (more like a pitman arm puller). I made one of those in the little bit of time I had making one HUGE mistake on final welds. Will tell that story when I have some time to download phone pics to this laptop.
 

rust in the eye

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Nice work man.

Every time I see my buddy smack the control with a hammer and the ball-joint just pops out, I'm always amazed. I've tried it many times, with different hammers, and have NEVER got that method to work. :headscrat
Sometimes you need hit it REALLY hard which in tight spaces can be tough. Preload with a "press" tool then a single whack from a three pounder does the job for me nearly every time.
I'm compelled to tell the story of the first time I ever saw the hammer method employed; An ancient Cadillac of mine needed new front coils so I brought it to a local spring shop that has been around since the invention of the wheel.
My car was driven over a pit and a sling attached the front end which lifted it. After unscrewing the ball joint nut and shock he took a single mighty swing and hit the swaying target over his head. I mentioned above about preloading the connection using a press tool. The Caddy's coil spring was more than adequate preload and the whole shebang came crashing down with considerable drama. The grizzled old mechanic never flinched, I don't think he even disturbed his cigarette ash.
The phrase "crude but effective" comes to mind.
 
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