Ballast bypass

[MostH8d]

I have 12 of the Utilitech 4ft shop lights from lowes. They have the regular t8 fluorescent tubes. I just bought a bunch of t8 LED tubes that are direct replacements. Bypassing the ballast isn't necessary. However, I've read that the ballasts consume 3 to 7 watts and also could fail. Can I bypass the ballast with direct replacement t8 tubes? It's not going to fry the tubes is it? Thanks.

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[Showkey]

What does the directions on the bulbs say ?.......or........call the manufacturer and ask.

By the direct replacement or drop in bulbs generally means leave the ballast in place so taking it out can cause a problem........but........there are bulbs that can be installed both ways.

Read this post #23 about the ballast bypass issue

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=352089&page=2

 

[cybrdyke]

I have 12 of the Utilitech 4ft shop lights from lowes. They have the regular t8 fluorescent tubes. I just bought a bunch of t8 LED tubes that are direct replacements. Bypassing the ballast isn't necessary. However, I've read that the ballasts consume 3 to 7 watts and also could fail. Can I bypass the ballast with direct replacement t8 tubes? It's not going to fry the tubes is it? Thanks.

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You're not really worried about 3 watts are you?
As Showkey said, there are all kinds of variations out there, so check with your manufacturer. Most, not all, ballast-ready tubes will not run by bypassing the ballast and you WILL damage them if you try.
Good luck,
CD

 

[wyliesdiesels]

how old are the ballasts?

are they newer electronic style or older magnetic?

 

[MostH8d]

They are brand new fixtures with electronic ballasts. They work fine with the t8 LED tubes, I was just wondering if it would damage the tubes if I bypassed the ballasts.

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[Falcon67]

>You're not really worried about 3 watts are you?

3 watts is 3 watts! Good question, I've been kinda looking. I have the Lithona versions of the OPs Utilitech. I have a pair of test LEDs in one fixture - works well but I'm not keen on the color temp. Supposed to be 4000K, looks pretty "orange" for 4K. We have some 3500Ks in the house that are whiter. If they could be run without the ballast, that would simplify the fixture layout IMHO.

 

[MostH8d]

I didn't get a chance to mess with it today, but as soon as I do I'm going to bypass the ballast and see. Since the LED tube is not full of gases like the traditional fluorescent bulb, I think it will be ok.

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[cybrdyke]

I didn't get a chance to mess with it today, but as soon as I do I'm going to bypass the ballast and see. Since the LED tube is not full of gases like the traditional fluorescent bulb, I think it will be ok.

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Let us know how it goes.
Understand that your fixture, since it has a standard electronic T8 ballast, likely has shunted sockets. To bypass the ballast, you'll need to replace these with unshunted sockets. You cant join hot & neutral in a shunted socket.
Then, when you make your electrical connections to the unshunted socket, which end of the lamp will you put into that "hot" socket? A bypass tube has an identified "power" end. A ballast ready tube doesn't. So, if it doesn't light one way, try it the other way.
CD

 

[MostH8d]

Wasn't aware of shunted sockets. I'll read up on them. However, on the ballast ready tubes I got, one side of them IS marked "L" and "N". The other side is not.

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[cybrdyke]

Wasn't aware of shunted sockets. I'll read up on them. However, on the ballast ready tubes I got, one side of them IS marked "L" and "N". The other side is not.

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It sounds like you have a dual-source tube. It can work either way, as a ballast-ready tube (with existing shunted sockets) or as a bypass tube (with unshunted sockets). A standard ballast-ready tube would not have those markings. There would be no need for them. There are a few companies that make these dual source tubes.
CD