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Ballistix Install

KPack

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The garage portion of my shop will be a working/hobby garage. General vehicle maintenance, restoration, woodworking, and some welding. I wanted a floor that looked nice, but most of all was strong and functional. I dislike the dustiness of unprotected concrete, but didn't want the hassle of epoxy and flake. The look of concrete itself does not bother me.

After looking at all the options I decided to give Ballistix a shot to see what it would do. From the claims, I liked the 1.) ease of install, 2.) impervious to automotive fluids, 3.) long life, 4.) gloss look. I ordered from Armorpoxy, which was an easy process. I spoke to them on the phone several times before and after the order to make sure I had everything. Shipping was quick and all the materials arrived about a week or so later.

Prep work was the worst part of the job. The area to be coated was ~1300 sq ft. The drywallers and painters had left a heavy layer of drywall dust and overspray all over the concrete. I had previously pressure washed the slab (about 2 weeks ago) and was able to remove a good amount of it, but there was still quite a bit left over. The pressure washer had a hard time getting it off.
Dust and overspray.jpg
Pre-scrubbing.jpg

Armorpoxy advised that I use a black pad on a floor buffer to clean off the remainder. One of the techs on the phone said to use it dry, so I did. It was brutal trying get that stuff off. Easily 2-3 hours of trying to keep the buffing machine under control. Crazy dusty. I had to blow the garage out multiple times, then a very light mopping with plain water, then a couple hours of dry time, then an overall cleaning with 99% iso. Much improved, but tons of work. Took up most of Saturday.
Cleaned and preppeed.jpg

Next was the acrylic sealer (ARM 8400X from Armorpoxy's Ballistix kit). It was easy to apply....just roll it on with the supplied rollers. They had sent 3 jugs of the sealer, and I only ended up using one to coat the whole floor. I wasn't skimping on it either. It dried in about an hour or so. You can see the rear portions starting to dry as I work through the garage.
ARM 8400x.jpg

Once it dried it had darkened the concrete only slightly. It left a very light satin sheen
Sealer dry.jpg

Here's where there was some confusion. One of the videos on Armorpoxy's website says to apply the Ballistix 2-4 hours after the 8400X. But in the instructions (which weren't as easy to find as I thought) said to let it sit overnight. In the end I left it overnight (actually let it cure all day Sunday and then did Ballistix on Monday morning). Mixing the Ballistix is pretty straightforward, but when the first two parts are mixed, the solution is supposed to reach 135 degrees Fahrenheit. I followed the directions to the letter, and checked on the bottle every few minutes. Even after shaking it again as instructed, the temp never really got to 135. Maybe for a brief minute, but definitely not above it. Ambient temp was 60 degrees.

Ballistix kit.jpg

It took a while to cool back down before I could add the final part. In the meantime I cleaned the whole floor again with 99% iso and the supplied microfiber mop. Plenty of time to dry afterward. Once the Ballistix was done I put it in the sprayer and my wife and I went to work. We basically followed the few videos I found and mopping it out went pretty quick. One thing I noticed in the videos is that no one ever wore a respirator. We didn't, though we probably should have. The lingering smell of the 99% iso was pretty strong, and the Ballistix added to it. Windows were open, fan was going, and heater was on. It wasn't bad while we were applying, but after we were done the smell got much stronger, I'm assuming because it's curing. I also noted that it was hard to gauge how much Ballistix we were going to need. It doesn't seem like much in the sprayer when you start, but it turns out it goes a long ways.

This photo shows the difference between the concrete with and without Ballistix.
Ballistix mid application.jpg

Once it was all down the floor looked pretty good I think.
Ballistix applied 2.jpg

I closed everything up and have been checking on it throughout the day. The TDS says dry time (to the touch) is about 2 hours at 70 degrees and 50% humidity. The shop is set to 65 degrees and I'm not sure what the humidity is in there right now. Outside humidity is 50%, not sure about inside the shop. It's been 5 hours and it's still very tacky to the touch. I'm also noticing some spots that are appearing more dull.
Dull spots.jpg

In addition, there are some areas where the Ballistix appears to have some "beading". These are areas where I'm 100% confident that there was never any oil on the concrete. I'm not really sure if this is to be expected or not.
Beading.jpg

Full cure time is 7 days, so I'm going to let it sit and keep anything from getting onto the surface as it sets. We'll see how it turns out. I'm not really sure what to expect at this point. This is my first time doing this, so I don't expect perfection, but I'm a little concerned that the finish is not looking even so far. I followed what directions I could find precisely, so I'm not sure if I could have/should have done anything different. I'll update over the next couple of days as things continue to cure.
 
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AdamMopar

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Thanks for the thourough overview. My pole barn slab should be getting poured soon and I have been going back and forth on using this. Will be interested in hearing what your conclusion is.

Thank you.
 
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KPack

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Day 2, and the Ballistix is hard and can be walked on. The smell is greatly diminished. I expect by the end of today it will be mostly gone.

Closer inspection shows multiple areas where for some reason the Ballistix seems to have had issues. There must have been something on the concrete, though there was never anything involving oil on these areas, and multiple passes with a black pad and scrubbing with 99% iso apparently didn't help. These aren't 'missed' areas of Ballistix either. The path of the mop was perpendicular to these spots.
Dry streaks.jpg

I think some of the rough finish is due to both the floor itself, and the layer of 8400X sealer. The sealer didn't level that much and left bumps from the roller knap. The Ballistix seems to be very thin and follows whatever is on the floor.

There are areas where there is beading, like I showed before, almost like water needing a surfactant to get it to flow. From a distance the finish looks okay but from up close you can easily see the imperfections. I guess as long as it actually seals and protects the concrete then that's all I really need. I'll wait the 7 days for it to fully cure then test it out with various automotive fluids.

I think I had an idea in my mind that I would have this smooth glossy sheen and it doesn't look like that will be the case for me. Perhaps I did something wrong on the prep or application. But I have no idea what that would be.
 

John-C

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Sorry to hear about the problems you had with this product. I'm in the process of doing my basement floor and was considering using this Ballistix product.

As you mentioned, I am wanting a smooth glossy finish on my floor and if this Ballistix product doesn't provide that then I suppose I need to look at using something else.
 
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KPack

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Sorry to hear about the problems you had with this product. I'm in the process of doing my basement floor and was considering using this Ballistix product.

As you mentioned, I am wanting a smooth glossy finish on my floor and if this Ballistix product doesn't provide that then I suppose I need to look at using something else.
I can only assume that I screwed something up somewhere along the the way. I'm not sure what, if anything, I did wrong. Perhaps someone else with experience can provide some insight?

Other examples look much better than mine. I'm sure that starting with a really nice floor (ground and flattened, previous epoxy, etc) will yield really nice results.
 

Toyo72

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Have you called Armorpoxy? Would be informative to know what they say about it. I'm shopping for my floor finish and am considering Ballistix. 1500 sq ft, pour was six months ago, building is up, about to install electric.
 
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KPack

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Have you called Armorpoxy? Would be informative to know what they say about it. I'm shopping for my floor finish and am considering Ballistix. 1500 sq ft, pour was six months ago, building is up, about to install electric.
I have not contacted them yet. I wanted to give it a day or so to see how it started to cure. At this point I will give them a call either tomorrow or the day after, whenever I can find the time. The more I look at it, the more it seems like the acrylic sealer and the Ballistix didn't work together well. The Ballistix is beaded on the sealer over the whole floor. I didn't look like that as I mopped it out....must've happened shortly after.
 

Andy Smith Jr.

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One question i was wondering is what to do if you ever have to recoat a Ballistix floor? I was reading where it's only a single coat application and you can't recoat it?
 
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KPack

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One question i was wondering is what to do if you ever have to recoat a Ballistix floor? I was reading where it's only a single coat application and you can't recoat it?
From what I've read it can be recoated, but the surface needs to be prepared first. You can't just slap another coat down. It'll need to be mechanically roughened with something like a black pad. In my case I don't think that will work because I'll still have all the bumps. I'll probably have to be more aggressive.

I talked to Armorpoxy today and I emailed them some pictures and the process I went through for the application. They'll look it over and will probably have some questions for me. One way or another I think we'll figure out what happened here. Then we'll need to figure out if I leave it as is or if I grind everything down and redo it. That does not excite me at all.

To be clear, Armorpoxy has been great through the whole process....ordering, shipping, questions, and now working on resolutions. My only issue the Ballistix....did I do something wrong, or is there another problem. We'll see.
 

BuickFarmer

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Hey @KPack, watching this closely as I was just trying to complete filling out my order of BallistiX when I happened up this thread. Sounds like you did everything right and is likely the same process I would use. Thanks for the detailed write-up.
 
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KPack

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Talking with Armorpoxy, they feel that the floor may have still had some moisture in it. Probably from mopping after the black pad cleaning. Something with that or the 8400X failed to cure properly. They've tested it all with the 8400X and not had any issues. So it was something on my end, or something with the concrete.

They recommend hitting the floor with either a black pad or 120-150 grit sanding screens, then applying another coat of Ballistix. They are kind enough to send another gallon for me to give it another go.

I'm not terribly excited about spending another weekend redoing the job, but it is what it is. Sometimes things just don't work and kudos to Armorpoxy for offering to help fix whatever happened. They didn't need to, and I didn't ask. But they offered and that says a lot.

I'll update as things progress. I hope to sand the floor this weekend.
 
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Toyo72

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Thanks for posting the updates. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out, as I'm a few weeks away from doing my new shop/garage flooring and Ballistix is at the top of the list.
 

hydrojim

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Talking with Armorpoxy, they feel that the floor may have still had some moisture in it. Probably from mopping after the black pad cleaning. Something with that or the 8400X failed to cure properly. They've tested it all with the 8400X and not had any issues. So it was something on my end, or something with the concrete.

They recommend hitting the floor with either a black pad or 120-150 grit sanding screens, then applying another coat of Ballistix. They are kind enough to send another gallon for me to give it another go.

I'm not terribly excited about spending another weekend redoing the job, but it is what it is. Sometimes things just don't work and kudos to Armorpoxy for offering to help fix whatever happened. They didn't need to, and I didn't ask. But they offered and that says a lot.

I'll update as things progress. I hope to sand the floor this weekend.

Out of curiosity, do you have a vapor barrier under your slab?
 
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KPack

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Out of curiosity, do you have a vapor barrier under your slab?
Yes I do. 15 mil vapor barrier under the entire slab, with 2 feet of 2" rigid foam around the entire border for frost barrier. So I would assume no moisture from the ground, which means the only moisture would have been from the mop. And it wasn't much, but maybe it was still too much?
 

kngelv

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I'm sort of confused on how this is supposed to look or work on a floor that has obvious paint residue. Your painters certainly did you no favors. The concrete looks like it still has paint and I'm wondering how the sealer or Ballistix is supposed to penetrate that. It looks to me like the sealer was never fully absorbed because the floor was not fully dry, and the Ballistix is floating on it - thus the beading. I know Armorpoxy says you don't have to grind or etch but then you are just putting a clear coating over any imperfections. How long did you wait between mopping and putting down the 8400X? The pictures on Armorpoxy's website show the Ballistix over floors that already look good. Yours unfortunately does not. I think people don't understand that this stuff is just a clear coating. When the seller of the product keeps saying it is better at resisting chemicals and hot tires than epoxy, polyurea and polyaspartic etc. it's easy to see why people are confused. It should be compared to floor sealers because that's what it is. I think putting another coat on even with some light sanding is going to be a waste of time. At this point I don't see how you can avoid grinding the floor. BTW do you have any pics of how the floor looked prior to the drywall and painting?

James
 
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KPack

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I'm sort of confused on how this is supposed to look or work on a floor that has obvious paint residue. Your painters certainly did you no favors. The concrete looks like it still has paint and I'm wondering how the sealer or Ballistix is supposed to penetrate that. It looks to me like the sealer was never fully absorbed because the floor was not fully dry, and the Ballistix is floating on it - thus the beading. I know Armorpoxy says you don't have to grind or etch but then you are just putting a clear coating over any imperfections. How long did you wait between mopping and putting down the 8400X? The pictures on Armorpoxy's website show the Ballistix over floors that already look good. Yours unfortunately does not. I think people don't understand that this stuff is just a clear coating. When the seller of the product keeps saying it is better at resisting chemicals and hot tires than epoxy, polyurea and polyaspartic etc. it's easy to see why people are confused. It should be compared to floor sealers because that's what it is. I think putting another coat on even with some light sanding is going to be a waste of time. At this point I don't see how you can avoid grinding the floor. BTW do you have any pics of how the floor looked prior to the drywall and painting?

James
The drywallers and painters were very messy. There was paper down, but the painters were rather sloppy and didn't tape up to the edges, etc. So it was a bit of a mess. Since you asked, here are a couple of pictures to use as a reference

2 weeks after pour
Two weeks after pour.jpg


Two months after pour
Two months after pour.jpg

After drywall and paint. Pressure washed to remove as much as possible, let dry for 3 weeks after
Pre-scrubbing.jpg

After scrubbing with black pad, mopping, 99% iso
Cleaned and preppeed.jpg

Some of variation in color of the concrete between the pre-drywall and post-drywall could be due to lighting. I had no lights in the building on the first pictures, and bright lights on the later pictures. But I would not be surprised if there is still some drywall dust or paint overspray in parts. I will say that after I cleaned everything with 99% iso I was unable to get any dust on my fingers when I wiped them on the floor.

I am definitely aware that Ballistix is a topical coating and will only follow the contour of the floor underneath it. And I very much accept that my floor is not perfect by any means....there are marks from the finishing, some rough spots, other imperfections, etc. I don't expect a mirror finish without grinding and leveling the floor. It will be a working garage, so I'm not looking for a perfect finish either. My issue is that the Ballistix beaded over most of the 8400X, which leaves lots of unprotected floor.

To answer your questions: I did a light mopping and waited about 3 hours, then did a second cleaning with just 99% iso and a clean microfiber mop. Then 8400X. The instructions on 8400X say "apply to dry or damp surface". The concrete was definitely not damp visually or to the touch. Looked dry as a bone, but there could have still been too much moisture in the concrete. I then waited close to 36 hours before applying Ballistix, due to other obligations that kept me away from the shop. The 8400x was for sure dry.

The thing I care most about is making sure the Ballistix is actually covering the whole floor. I'm not that concerned about imperfections in the floor itself, but I do want to be sure that fluids and chemicals from cars and other work don't get into the concrete and stain it. With the beading, I'm concerned that will not be the case.
 

kngelv

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The 8400X should not be the issue if it can be applied to a damp surface. I’m curious as to what the Ballistix is adhering to. Is the 8400X somehow interfering with it’s absorption? If the 8400X is a water based sealer then why put it on before the Ballistix? I guess I’m also wondering why you would seal the floor with two different sealers? I know in another post Armorpoxy stated that the 8400X is a way of saving money but I fail to understand the benefit other than a few dollars. It’s like using water based epoxy for the first coat and 100% solids for a second one. Hoping Armorpoxy explains all this to you. Sorry for all the work you have put in and the current result.

James
 
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KPack

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The 8400X should not be the issue if it can be applied to a damp surface. I’m curious as to what the Ballistix is adhering to. Is the 8400X somehow interfering with it’s absorption? If the 8400X is a water based sealer then why put it on before the Ballistix? I guess I’m also wondering why you would seal the floor with two different sealers? I know in another post Armorpoxy stated that the 8400X is a way of saving money but I fail to understand the benefit other than a few dollars. It’s like using water based epoxy for the first coat and 100% solids for a second one. Hoping Armorpoxy explains all this to you. Sorry for all the work you have put in and the current result.

James
Thanks for the input. I believe the thought was to allow the Ballistix to go further on very porous surfaces. On a porous surface it would take much, much more Ballistix to cover. In my case it probably would've taken 3 gallons instead of 1.

Technically it should stick to just about anything if it is clean. Ballistix recommends, if using a sealer first, to use a water based sealer. Otherwise the Ballistix risks damaging a solvent based sealer. I can't remember all the details of what I read, but that was the basic substance of it.

Talking with Armorpoxy, they tested the 8400x+Ballistix combo and didn't have issues. And apparently there have been many customers that used the combo without issue. So something was not quite right in mine. Maybe the mix of Ballistix? I followed the mix instructions to the letter, though it did have a hard time reaching the correct temperature. Who knows.

I'm planning on scuffing/sanding the surface and doing another layer of Ballistix with the hope that it will cover the areas where it missed last time. I will say that despite the beading, the floor does look much better than bare concrete.
 
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Steve in UT

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I would have gone over it with a black pad on a floor polisher. They are great for removing just a skim off the top.
 
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KPack

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Please keep us updated on how the recoat goes.
It shall be done!

I would have gone over it with a black pad on a floor polisher. They are great for removing just a skim off the top.
Are you saying you would've gone over it with a black pad before the first coat, or before the second coat? I did it before the first coat, and will likely do it before the second instead of a sanding screen. I wonder if the sanding screen will be too aggressive. If the black pad is enough to knock down the beads a bit and roughen the surface then that should be all I need.

How long does a pad last for?
 

mgerth

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Sorry to hear you are having trouble, I'm excited to apply my kit but slightly less so now. Do you think the coat of 8400 was too thin since you only used 1 of the 3 gal supplied? What's the coverage rate per gallon?

Hope the reapplication yields results you're happier with!
 

Steve in UT

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It shall be done!


Are you saying you would've gone over it with a black pad before the first coat, or before the second coat? I did it before the first coat, and will likely do it before the second instead of a sanding screen. I wonder if the sanding screen will be too aggressive. If the black pad is enough to knock down the beads a bit and roughen the surface then that should be all I need.

How long does a pad last for?
I meant doing it before. I thought it would remove whatever it was that caused your fisheye type problem. But I guess it didn't if you already did the black pad thing. I just know when I did it I was surprised how much sludge it produced. I had a buffing unit that had a water tank on it and I put a fair amount of water on it. I cant remember how many square feet I got out of a pad. I seem to remember maybe 4 pads for the whole 2,700 sq/ft, but I am not sure.
 

larry4406

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Ugh wish you the best with this. 😔

I need to do something to my garage floor and it’s stories like this which keeps pushing me towards the Race Deck type coverings. My floor has peeling floor paint from previous owner and likely no vapor barrier.
 
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KPack

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I'm scuffing the floor today in prep for another coat of Ballistix. I'm using a black pad (on their recommendation) but it doesn't seem to be doing much. Should I be using this pad wet or dry?

Ballistix won't stick to itself unless it's been abraded. I'm just not sure how scuffed it needs to be. There is no way I'm getting so the gloss off.
 

kngelv

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Just remember before you put the Ballistix down that it’s just gonna be a clear coating over however the floor looks. If a black pad can’t get the floor to look even in terms of appearance then you’re going to have to go with something stronger either pads with more grit or maybe break down and grind it. I would not coat the floor unless everything looked the same. Evidently Armorpoxy is talking with you. It sure would be nice if they posted something in this thread since they continuously post in other threads and brag about how awesome their products are. Good luck.

James
 
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KPack

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Just remember before you put the Ballistix down that it’s just gonna be a clear coating over however the floor looks. If a black pad can’t get the floor to look even in terms of appearance then you’re going to have to go with something stronger either pads with more grit or maybe break down and grind it. I would not coat the floor unless everything looked the same. Evidently Armorpoxy is talking with you. It sure would be nice if they posted something in this thread since they continuously post in other threads and brag about how awesome their products are. Good luck.

James
I'm not so worried about the floor being a uniform color, but more about the Ballistix laying down without beading. The variations in the concrete color is actually something I like. Otherwise I would grind and stain.

If I were to do it all over again I would have just ground the floor from the start. That would've saved a lot of frustration on the back end. As it stands now, I just want to get the floor done and protected so I can move on to other things. This has sucked up a ridiculous amount of time.
 

Armorpoxy

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Hi, our apologies for not weighing in sooner but between vacations and some people out with Covid the GJ was not monitored for a bit hence why we always say contact us directly for support.

The results here are unusual and not what we see from the many, many kits we sell. The 8400 sealer has been a really trouble-free product, but, it's a sealer, it's not a thicker coating and won't do much to level out or repair a floor. Same goes for Ballistix, it's a thin, protective coating. Our suspicion is that there was residual moisture in the floor that caused this problem, or less likely some contaminant or filler in the concrete that wasn't fully sealed in.

We have though seen a few instances where a second coat of sealer is needed for floors that have a lot of porosity to them, not frequent, but has happened. Before coating with Ballistix the floor should have a nice even sheen to it so if this is not the result after the sealer coat, we suggest stopping, and contacting us for another coat of sealer. We have though not had any issues with the sealer and the Ballstix compatibility.

Regarding recoating Ballistix can be recoated after it has cured for a week by deglossing it fully and ISO wiping it down. Alternately the combo of the sealer and Ballistix has been literally bulletproof.

Please contact us directly so we can work out the best solution. Thank you!
 
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KPack

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Hi, our apologies for not weighing in sooner but between vacations and some people out with Covid the GJ was not monitored for a bit hence why we always say contact us directly for support.

The results here are unusual and not what we see from the many, many kits we sell. The 8400 sealer has been a really trouble-free product, but, it's a sealer, it's not a thicker coating and won't do much to level out or repair a floor. Same goes for Ballistix, it's a thin, protective coating. Our suspicion is that there was residual moisture in the floor that caused this problem, or less likely some contaminant or filler in the concrete that wasn't fully sealed in.

We have though seen a few instances where a second coat of sealer is needed for floors that have a lot of porosity to them, not frequent, but has happened. Before coating with Ballistix the floor should have a nice even sheen to it so if this is not the result after the sealer coat, we suggest stopping, and contacting us for another coat of sealer. We have though not had any issues with the sealer and the Ballstix compatibility.

Regarding recoating Ballistix can be recoated after it has cured for a week by deglossing it fully and ISO wiping it down. Alternately the combo of the sealer and Ballistix has been literally bulletproof.

Please contact us directly so we can work out the best solution. Thank you!
Thanks, I've already talked to the office over the phone and you guys were kind enough to send another gallon of Ballistix and 99% iso for another go at it.

The concrete didn't appear overly porous (hard, smooth surface) and it only took 1 gallon of the 8400X sealer to coat the whole floor. And I wasn't being stingy with it either. If anything it may have gone on too thick. I still have two jugs of the 8400X left over. I let it cure for 48 hours and it had a nice even sheen to it.

I spent most of last Saturday trying to get the gloss off the original Ballistix with a black pad and light water. I was at it for hours, plus several more hours cleaning up the mess. It knocked the gloss down by maybe 50% but there is still definitely plenty of gloss there. It was a brutal day and ultimately didn't work.

Today I talked directly to Meghan's Supply and Design, to their person who deals with repairs and remediation of Ballistix. According to them it is, at this point, going to take much more than a black pad to prep the floor for another coat. They recommended an orbital sander with 80 or 100 grit screens, then a black pad if scratch marks are visible. They also recommended to do the final 99% iso wipe immediately before spraying the Ballistix. Previously I had done the iso clean the night before application of Ballistix.

Now I just need to find the time to sand the whole floor down. Not very excited about it.
 

Armorpoxy

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Thank you for the update. Yes we have seen it go down too thick like a coating instead of more like a glaze which can cause appearance issues. Let us know if you need the screens, happy to supply no charge, we stock the round ones for swing machines.
 
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KPack

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Thank you for the update. Yes we have seen it go down too thick like a coating instead of more like a glaze which can cause appearance issues. Let us know if you need the screens, happy to supply no charge, we stock the round ones for swing machines.
That's very generous of you. Let me try a local place first and see if I can get what I need without you having to send anything else. I talked to a place yesterday and they have both oscillating square sanders, and the round floor buffers. They don't have sanding screens, but they do have plenty of 80 and 100 grit sandpaper for the oscillating sander. Can sandpaper be used for concrete or only sanding screens?
 

Armorpoxy

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We would recommend screens, paper on concrete tends to get destroyed in minutes.
 

kngelv

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Joined
May 25, 2011
Messages
2,215
Location
Detroit, MI
This thread just bums me out. One little issue can turn into hours and hours of work. I think some of the coating retailers oversell the ease of installation. Armorpoxy posted this in the Ballistix thread:

"And...the great part is the cost is around 63 cents/square foot all-in including the installation tools. NO PREP or grinding is required other than cleaning for bare concrete in decent condition."

The whole no-prep thing is a big selling point that is not true as it turns out. I'm not picking on them - it's all the vendors. There are so many things that can go wrong and then you can end up stuck with hours and hours of time wasted trying to fix it.

James
 

Armorpoxy

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Aug 18, 2013
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3,731
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NJ
We don't disagree that infrequently projects can turn into larger ones than anticipated, but unfortunately negative postings are often just about the problems, and not the tens of thousands of successful installations annually of ours, and other vendor's products. Installing coatings in the field is in essence 'manufacturing on site', and with the many, many variables encountered on a site very rarely things may not go as planned, and require remediation to correct the problem. We sell to over 1,000 professional installers nationwide, and even they encounter unanticipated problems in the field notwithstanding their many years of experience, training, and proper equipment available to them. Our products are all relatively easy to install and we package them to the best of our ability for DIY installation.

In fact though everyone who buys materials themselves because they want to for the significant cost savings vs hiring a contractor (often the savings can be 80%) or for other reasons does take on some risk that things may not go as planned. We are sure that there is not a single person here that has tackled projects that at some time did not go exactly as planned and required more time, money, aggravation etc to complete the project, or their end result did not go 100% as planned.

The key thing is that you buy materials from a company that stands behind their products, and will assist in rectifying any issues that you may be unhappy with.

We do know that all of the vendors on GJ support superbly their customers to the greatest extent possible so their should be some comfort there.
 

Ignacio

Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2020
Messages
19
Location
Missouri
Also following to see how this turns out for you. I was between typical cheaper sealers or epoxy for a 1500sf shop area until I read of Ballistix on here. Resisting gas, brake cleaners, etc sounded too good to be true for the price. Hope you're able to get it taken care of.
 
OP
K

KPack

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May 15, 2020
Messages
87
Location
Washington
Just to be clear, I'm not blaming Armorpoxy for anything that happened here. They've been nothing but great to work with during this whole process. Something just didn't work on my end...whether it was a mistake I made or a problem with materials. Whatever it was, it is what it is and it'll get fixed.

I'll be running 80 grit sanding screen on an oscillating sander this coming Monday. We'll see how that cleans the floor up. If the gloss is gone then I'm assuming I just need to clean the dust off, do a 99% iso wipe and then lay down the new layer of Ballistix.

Also following to see how this turns out for you. I was between typical cheaper sealers or epoxy for a 1500sf shop area until I read of Ballistix on here. Resisting gas, brake cleaners, etc sounded too good to be true for the price. Hope you're able to get it taken care of.
The areas where the Ballistix laid down nicely were impressive. Water completely beaded up yet it was not slippery at all. Gear oil and motor oil beaded, and wiped right up with no evidence that it was ever there. I haven't tried gas and brake cleaner yet, but I'm expecting the same results. Once this stuff cures it is very tough.
 

Armorpoxy

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Aug 18, 2013
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3,731
Location
NJ
The issues here are cosmetic not performance, and the product is working, it just didn’t apply properly to the satisfaction of the client. As noted above things can happen in the field, rare, but can occur.
 
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K

KPack

Well-known member
Joined
May 15, 2020
Messages
87
Location
Washington
The issues here are cosmetic not performance, and the product is working, it just didn’t apply properly to the satisfaction of the client. As noted above things can happen in the field, rare, but can occur.
With the beading I was concerned that there was no Ballistix between where the beads were. I'm not sure if there is a way to test that. So I decided I would rather reapply and be sure that the floor is fully protected. It wouldn't do me much good if parts of the floor were protected and parts were not.

Speaking with the manufacturer they confirmed that issues were rare. Repair and remediation is easy right after you lay it down, but once it's cured it's a much bigger deal.
 
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