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Balusters and building code.

TurnipTruck

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I am about to fabricate handrails on the catwalk to the upstairs office in my shop.

My plan for the last few years was a handrail/mid rail/toe bar setup like you would find in an industrial or scaffolding application, but the wife is concerned about residential code should we ever resell. She is still unsteady on her new knees, and asked for more balusters on the spiral stair, too. I’m not sure if I can ever get the dogs to climb up there, and we are way past toddlers running around, especially in the shop.
I have enough material to weld up an industrial-style handrail, but if I have to meet residential code in a detached shop, I’m gonna have to buy more steel.

Catwalk to office, 11’ up:
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View from above. The attic access ladder will be integral to the handrail and is already welded to the I beam:


92D06C87-D63C-4C16-BF96-E0FF837012BF.jpeg


Drilling for the handrail uprights:
1BD5C50F-1B89-482E-88E4-86B857AD0F64.jpeg
Does a detached shop with no living spaces have to meet residential code for baluster’s frequent enough to not allow a 6” ball to pass through?
 
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billconner

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If it accesses habital space - looks like it does - I think most residential codes would require a guard that meets the 4" sphere rule up to 36". I've lived in a lot of places where an industrial guard at 42" and toe board and intermediate rail would be accepted, but no guarantee.

Don't really have a good answer for you. Safe answer is meet the 4" sphere rule.
 

Walkers

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Cave Creek Az
Knees and spiral stairs do not get along well! Personally I would build it to the 4" sphere rule. Otherwise, build what you want and throw sheets of acrylic on it (or even wire mesh) when it comes time to sell.
 

walta

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Dutzow Missouri
Note the stair railing also needs to pass the 4 inch test but you are allowed 6 inches from the tread to the railing and the open risers may be disallowed in by codes.

Walta
 

walta

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I hate all the rules but the older I get the more sense they make.

Who as a child did not stick their head thru the railing and get panicked when it was almost impossible to remove. I learn a valuable lesson that day that has served me well. If the world is made safe how will anyone learn.

Walta
 

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Joemctag

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I also fabricate steel, many catwalks, rails, grating platforms. Consider heavy duty 4x4” mesh, wires about 1/4” dia. Some supply places have it. You might need to cut it down at the yard. Also, agriculture supplies like Tractor supply have various large pieces of galvanized mesh. An be pretty cool for in-fill.
Pickets ( balusters ) are boring. The 4x4 mesh is bare; used for concrete slabs. Not too common. I live in a large metropolitan area and had to go 100 miles to get it.
You used to be able to go 6” clear max. unless vertical balusters, then, in that case, 4” max.
I’d go with the top, midrail and toe-plate. If you sell, you can fasten some light wire mesh inside it maybe.
Show us when it’s done.
 
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kwb

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Drilling for the handrail uprights:
1BD5C50F-1B89-482E-88E4-86B857AD0F64.jpeg
Does a detached shop with no living spaces have to meet residential code for baluster’s frequent enough to not allow a 6” ball to pass through?
Get rid of that twist bit and get an annular cutter.

4x4mesh is great solution. I did a railing/stairwell at a friends house with that. Made a tight track to catch all the ends and only took a few tacks to hold it in place. I think you can also get "pig panels" for fences that have tighter spacing towards the bottom and then open up to 4x4 at places like tractor supply or other Ag type stores

Other good source - wire pallet racking decks can often be had cheaply.
 
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TurnipTruck

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Get rid of that twist bit and get an annular cutter.
I used annulars, but I don’t have any between 1” and 1-1/2” and needed 1-1/8. Luckily I have a 1-5/64 twist to chase the holes.


I am fitting up for a top and mid rail, and should have enough 3” bar for a toeboard for this and the outdoor deck. Since the diameter and the rise of the stair will never be legal, we’re going for industrial code.
 

strutaeng

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Dallas, TX
I have designed steel catwalks for industrial applications. No, the toe kick is only an OSHA requirement. On those we almost always designed a guardrail panel that was removable for future material or equipment moving. The contractors were always happy with our design.

I built a stair that leads up to a balcony and is a similar situation as yours on my house. What I did at my house is steel guardrails 42" high with a bottom and top horizontal tube welded to 2x2 tubes. I wound up like with a 3 5/8" balusters spacing on my 6' center post spacing. Be mindful that the code does require a 200# horizontal reaction or 50 lb/ft, whichever is greater. Attaching to the top of that flange may yield a guardrail that is not stiff enough? I did do a small toe kick on mine, and worked nicely with my trim since I couldn't do a baseboard on the inside of the balcony. I can snap some pics if you want.

On the stairs my 3/4x3/4 tube balusters sit on and are doweled into the wood treads. I'm not a fan on the stairs balusters with that bottom sloping rail, although that way is much easier to install as long as you meet the clearance requirements.
 
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billconner

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I never thought spiral stairs were great, but they are space efficient and kind of interesting. I've included a lot of them in planning and designing stages, where the spiral stair is practically an icon. Clamp a couple of spotlights to your catwalk rail for a very theatrical look.
 
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TurnipTruck

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Southcentral Alaska
Having to close in the risers so a 4” sphere wouldn’t pass was the residential code deal killer for me. I did add balusters all the way up the stairs for the wife, but the catwalk itself got the top&midrail and a 3” toe board. The welder stinger wasn’t long enough to reach 15’ up, so I forked it atop the scaffold. I also had to fab up a 50A extension cord to reach above the spiral stair. Now to paint it all!
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The pink foam boards are temporary attic access hatch plugs. I haven’t decided what the access doors will eventually look like yet. One thought was to make them look like giant speakers.
 
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