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band saws

BigDaveZJ

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Centennial, CO
Looking to add a band saw to the shop. Primary use will be small woodworking projects, like Adirondack chairs and other small things around the house. LOTS of the older 12" Craftsman units on Craigslist for around $100. Are they any good or should I spring for something nicer and/or new/newer?
 
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tarbellb

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Avoid the 12" models, they are for mickey mouse projects.

Keep looking for a 14" bandsaw, older the better. If buying new Grizzly is $ vs performance.

Brands like Delta, JET, Powermatic, Walker Turner, even the generic imports from the last 40yrs are pretty decent. All will do woodworking speeds, metal is another beast.
 

78C-10

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I'd say look for an old Delta Milwaukee or Delta Rockwell. I recently bought one from a fellow GJ member and I love it. They are excellent quality and built like a tank. 👍
 

rsanter

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visalia ca
If you want to go new and cheap. I have a Roybi benchtop model.
I bought it for a specific project thinking that even if it only get this job done that's fine and if it doesn't work I'll take it back.
Thatnthing works better than expected for its size. I was impressed.
I have 2 larger bandsaws now but I still keep that one as it is portable and still works great.
I paid $100 for it and I think it's only $129 now days.
You say small wood working stuff. This will do the job

Bob
 

6PTsocket

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Avoid the 12" models, they are for mickey mouse projects.

Keep looking for a 14" bandsaw, older the better. If buying new Grizzly is $ vs performance.

Brands like Delta, JET, Powermatic, Walker Turner, even the generic imports from the last 40yrs are pretty decent. All will do woodworking speeds, metal is another beast.
Unless you are lucky enough to have one of the Deltas or Delta Rockwwells like mine, similar to the 14" wood saw but has a built in selectable 20:1 gear reducer and 4 step pulley system, for a wide range of low speeds for metal. They are not that common and not cheap. I got mine pretty stripped but parts were not that expensive and everything was available before the merges and sell offs that left Delta in a sorry state.

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Marctrees

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BigDave..... As others have said above.

Mostly read what Tarbellb and 78c sed. Listen to that, best responses.

Avoid Asian.

You want best responses???

POST your approx location to show in your window to the left.... That will help you as you continue to be a poster here.

Some, like me, with your location info, will point you further to what you need. Marc
 
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Packard V8

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Something else to consider is do you need resaw capability? That will change the saw size you should be looking at in a hurry.

Agree, as with most machines, bigger has more capabilities, but learn the basics on a smaller machine first - JMHO - resawing is not recommended for newbies.

Having said that, a wood bandsaw is about the easiest, safest of all woodworking machines for beginners to master.

Around here, the older Delta 14" is the gold standard for beginners. They sell for from $250 - 400, depending upon stand, blades, motor and condition.

Buying isn't marrying; I've traded up many machines over the years. As one uses, the strengths and weaknesses and future needs become apparent. When a better machine becomes available, buy that and sell the lesser.

jack vines
 

tarbellb

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I normally do more metal working than wood working, but this saw will only be for wood. I looked into what it would take to have a band saw that could do metal . . . yikes.

We all have different requirements but the 12" models I have used are only good for soft pine or thinner hardwoods?

If do start looking for metal capabilities consider going with a portable bandsaw like Milwaukees Deep Cut and then adapting a table, either DIY or Swag Offroad. Easily the most capable setup before spending big bucks.

Ill resonate what others said, post your specific location and you will set loose the hounds (GJ'ers) seeking out some deals!
 

zak77

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Monson, MA
I have an older 12" craftsman and it's fine for basic, simple stuff but it rarely gets used. I just dont do a lot of projects that require it nowadays. It deffinately has it's limits and honestly if i hadnt been given it, i probably wouldnt have it. If you were near me i'd sell it to you.

As for a metal bandsaw, it depends on what you need it for. I got the HF portaband mounted on a stand and it comes in handy once in a while.
 
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BigDaveZJ

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My bad on the location thing, been on this forum 5 years and had figured I had done that already when I posted my shop build a couple years ago.

Don't see a need for re-sawing, honestly had to google it see what it was. I don't plan on ever using a band saw for metal either, I already have a chop saw, plenty of grinders, and will be adding a plasma cutter at some point.

I'll keep an eye for one of the Delta units. Buddy of mine just got a nice Jet for $200 . . . lucky *******!
 

altersaddle

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Victoria, BC
I have a 12" craftsman that I got in auction for something like $40. It's worth about that. For $100 make sure it has a motor and stand and maybe some new replacement blades.

It was an upgrade from a benchtop 3-wheel 10" craftsman my Dad gave me.

The 80" blades are a bit obscure, although nothing like the crazy 56-and-whatever the threewheeler used. I managed to pair my saw up with a 1hp motor which really helps. Dust management is pretty bad, the wheels have vanes to make 'em fans and sawdust has to travel from the guides through the bottom case out the back.

I have resawn 6" lumber in my saw, it was ok, I wouldn't do it all the time. It's fine for what I use it for - gentle curves in softer woods and making bowl blanks round.
 

bdelmar2

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At some point you may very well need that resaw capacity, but there are other practical benefits to a larger saw.

One is throat depth, meaning a larger one typically gives you more room between the blade and the frame making it easier to work with larger stock.

Another is the wheel diameter, larger saw has a larger wheel diameter so it bends the blade less, the less you flex a blade the longer it will last.

The larger saws also tend to be built better and have more feature, like a easy to use blade tension release. If you don't use the saw regularly (or even if you do) you will want to release the tension on the blade which in theory is good for the blade and the saw.

Same with guides and tracking adjustments, larger more expensive saws will likely have better longer lasting setups.

I guess it mostly depends on how much disposable income you have, and how much you end up using it.

A well tuned nicely set up band saw is a handy item to have, but with woodwork there are generally many ways to accomplish the same thing, so if you find you like the bandsaw you will use it often, if you don't like it you will make cuts another way.

Say for instance those Adirondack chairs you are thinking of. Lots of different styles fall under that classification, but lets say you pick one that has tapers on the outside back slats.

With a decent bandsaw setup and some practice you could mark out the taper and cut it quickly with no additional setups and it would only need some minor sanding if that to be on par with your other cuts.

Alternately you could make a taper jig for your tablesaw and use that, or use a circular saw, or a jig saw (likely to need more sanding though) or a handsaw or a hand plane, it can also be done with a jointer if you like using those.

Another consideration, at least for me would be the other tools I have. If my other machines are good quality and capacity I wouldn't want a crappy bandsaw - and I'd be much less likely to use it.

On the other hand if I have relatively low quality machines it wouldn't make sense to have a really expensive bandsaw (unless the majority of my work was done on it) although it would most likely get used proportionally more.

Personally I would look for a decent used saw at least 14" and in good shape for a reasonable price. That would match my other machines and be in line with my budget, and I'm about as likely to use a bandsaw as another machine depending on the cut in question.

You do want to watch the older used machines, a lot of them are wore out. If you have to buy new tires for the wheels, and new guide parts, or bushings then you might be getting close to the price of a new saw. Or even worse the table is warped or the motor is junk or goes out in a couple months, etc....
 
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PurdueSD

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Many variations of the portable band put into a stand. Depending on the work your doing it can be a good starting point. That with a cut off can satisfy the DIY guys

View media item 24131

Ive got this setup with the swag offroad stand... it's been incredibly usefull since I'm too cheap to but a metal worthy band saw.
 

exmaxima1

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Unless you are lucky enough to have one of the Deltas or Delta Rockwwells like mine, similar to the 14" wood saw but has a built in selectable 20:1 gear reducer and 4 step pulley system, for a wide range of low speeds for metal.

The gearbox on those saws hold over a qt of oil. Can you transport one of those saws on its side without spilling all the oil out? How do you drain the oil for replacement?
 

6PTsocket

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The gearbox on those saws hold over a qt of oil. Can you transport one of those saws on its side without spilling all the oil out? How do you drain the oil for replacement?
There is a fill plug but no drain. You can lay it over. The side cover comes off. I did not pull it off until I got an oil leak at the gasket. Standard replacement for old fiber gasket if you have one is Permatex or Loctite silicon gasket sealer from the auto parts store. I refilled with synthetic Mobil SHC634 gear and bearing lube. Ir was a good chance to clean and inspect the gears and case.

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exmaxima1

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There is a fill plug but no drain. You can lay it over. The side cover comes off. I did not pull it off until I got an oil leak at the gasket. Standard replacement for old fiber gasket if you have one is Permatex or Loctite silicon gasket sealer from the auto parts store. I refilled with synthetic Mobil SHC634 gear and bearing lube. Ir was a good chance to clean and inspect the gears and case.

Thanks again!
 

6PTsocket

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My pleasure.

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I stand corrected. I just looked at the parts diagram and there is a drain plug but the saw would probably have to come off the stand to access it. It could probably be drained from the fill plug, with the saw on it's side. Sorry for the error.

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rrich1

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I'm purchasing a rikon 14" bandsaw this week. The European style bandsaws will have a larger throat depth without the need for a extension. I plan to resaw on mine and the 1 1/2hp should be fine enough for a hobbies like me. If not I know of a few places I can go do get the job done.

Grizzly has a sale going on right now for their 3/4 hp model. Shipping ***** but decent price none the less. http://www.grizzly.com/products/14-Bandsaw-3-4-HP/G0580?utm_campaign=zPage&utm_source=grizzly.com

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DGersic

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DeKalb, IL
I needed a wood band saw for a project, didn't want to wait, so picked up a cheap one from Menards. It's not a great saw, but it was available when I needed it, and it's good enough for the four or five times a year that I need a bandsaw.

You mentioned Adirondack chairs, the non straight cuts on these were done with bandsaw.

c611f930988ade80e7c5981eb2aa3fb5.jpg

Straight cuts on table saw, with home made taper jig for the back slats.

Whatever saw you get, spring for good blades. The cheap blades at the local big box stores wander all over the place. I like the Timber Wolf blades (http://timberwolfblades.com/). They make even my cheap saw work well.



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Corndoggeh

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I have a 12" cman bandsaw. Plenty of power with a 1/2 HP motor for even resawing, the blade type and quality is far more important than any other difference between the 12 and 14" when it comes to wood. Plus you can always put a bigger motor on the cman 12" since it has the outer pulley.

Bigger isn't always better for a home shop.
 

the gypsy

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Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Hi guys, I have seen a Craftsman 12" tilt head band saw for $150 cdn. I am not so worried about the price as I am more concerned on the experience that some members may have with this model/type of band saw.
 

exmaxima1

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I stand corrected. I just looked at the parts diagram and there is a drain plug but the saw would probably have to come off the stand to access it. It could probably be drained from the fill plug, with the saw on it's side. Sorry for the error.

I pick up the Delta Wood-Metal bandsaw tomorrow night. It's in the guy's basement, so I may be forced to remove the stand in order to lift it (even with 3 guys, not sure what it weighs). If so, I will definitely drain before I replace the stand. Thanks again for the advise.
 
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