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Bandsaw Questions

aka Larry

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May 2, 2012
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So I have this Jet Model HVBS-56M and it has served me well for the most part. The problem is me I'm sure, but I need more than just that information to correct it.

Here's the deal. When I first got it I used the blade that came with it and cut a decent amount of 1.5" DOM tubing with it. It did a good job, kind of slow, but the cut was super clean with minimal mess. I could start the cut, walk away and come back when it automatically shut off. After that job I cut a bunch of 1" thin-wall square tubing and it didn't go nearly as smooth. The blade would snag and pop off at the drop of a hat, which got to be very annoying.

For reference, I had the blade speed on the slowest setting and the feed tension basically just the weight of the arm. You could audibly tell it would snag each time it passed by the weld seam so to combat this I just baby-sat it taking the tension off each time it neared the seam. Again, I like the set it and forget it deal, and this method sucked.

Fast forward to my trailer project. I bought a new vari-tooth 10/14 blade from MMC before I started. Most of the project was 1-1/2" x 3/16" thk angle and it cut through all that with no issues. Again, it was slow, but it worked.
The theme here, it cuts thick (solid) stuff just fine, but thin-walled tubing is a PITA.

What's the deal? Do I need to change the blade speed, increase the feed rate (unlikely), or switch to a different blade...if so which one?
 
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454ragtop

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You need a finer tooth blade. Rule of thumb is to have at least 3 teeth cutting. Too coarse a blade will tear out teeth if all the load is on a single or two teeth.
HTH, Jim
 
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A

aka Larry

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I'm sure if I was cutting only thin walled tubing all the time that would be the answer.

However, I was under the impression (not saying it is right) that the vari-tooth blade is a compromise that would allow me finer teeth for thin stuff and more course ones for thicker materials also.

Maybe I have to change the blade back and forth? Damn that would be a pain.
 

Bolster

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Jul 8, 2008
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Mexifornia
No, I don't think a variable-tooth will help much with thinwall...the larger teeth in the variable blade will still hang up in the thin material. You really do need to change to a fine tooth blade when cutting thinwall...try it, and you will see a big difference. Sorry it is a pain, but that's what needs to be done. I suppose you could always leave the fine tooth on permanently, and just live with really slow, inefficient cuts for thicker material...
 
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Bobf

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Feb 16, 2012
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Poway, CA
Have you tried putting a piece of wood approx the same size (ie. 1 1/2X1 1/2) as the tubing you ar cutting in front or behind the actual tubing you wish to cut. It slows it down going thru the two thin vertical sides. You only need to slice maybe 1/4" or so each time.
 
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ezzzzzzz

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Jan 25, 2012
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The rule is still three teeth in the material at all times. Your thinnest material is the deciding factor.
 
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aka Larry

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OK, I'll stack the deck and get two, a 18 TPI and 24 TPI one. If neither works you guys owe me a refund.
 

454ragtop

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Perhaps a finer vari tooth, 18-24 perhaps? Like was mentioned, sometimes you can crutch it by putting something else in the vise to cut at the same time. Higher end saws with a hyd down feed can sometimes crutch it also by slowing the feed way down.
Jim
 
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