Bandsaw Value from 1 pic

[Ramper]

Walker Turner:

 

[AlexNGreen]

Exactly $53

 

[bluebolt]

I have no idea of value but that art deco matching base is gorgeous! Is it wood only or wood meta combo?

 

[Outlawmws]

Is it metal (Slow speed) or wood? I'd guess wood since it has a fence. (Man that fence looks a lot like the Craftsman/King-Seeley table saw fence...)

Any clue on the throat depth? (Maybe 14" at a guess?)

It DOES have a large table so that is a nice plus.

That power switch look sot be 1) totally in the way for blade changes, and 2) Almost useless during use... (Negotiation point)

Assuming it to be a wood/14" I'd say $100 is a decent deal, maybe 200 it you really need one. (But remember I'm a big cheapskate... And that would be in my area)

 

[jerryW]

A couple of years ago I bought a similar one for $60 at a yard sale.


jerry

 

[OccupantRJ]

Up to around $150. Even if you pay a little more than you want for it, it's usefulness will make it more valuable to you once you start using it. They are one of the most used tools in my shop. Walk up, cut, walk away.

 

[gus1962]

The price for that band saw should not exceed $100.

 

[shoot summ]

I bought my Dad one like that back in 1989 for $125, had a dozen coats of paint on it(most likely a Gov't job). He restored it and has used it ever since. It has a transmission on it so it will run slow for metal or fast for wood.

It's mine for the taking whenever I can go get it, pretty excited about having it.

As far as the value I'm with the others, $150 or so tops.

 

[ctb]

Being a Walker Turner, It's one of the best made American manufactured machines you'll find. They easily equaled or, some would say surpassed, the quality of the Delta made machines of the day. And that's saying a lot. If I were living in the states, I'd happily pay 300 or more for that. It's way better than anything similar sized manufactured today.

 

[Fyrme]

It sometimes blows me away on the value that you guys on this board throw out. There can't be that big of a price bubble in central US. That band saw in the NE Okla, Four corners would easily bring $300. They don't give away ANYTHING old around here. There was one just like it a couple weeks ago around Joplin for $400, just a little nicer. I just paid $100 for a 1953 12" Craftsman King-Seeley with no fence or miter or stand. I needed a saw and the guy wouldn't budge $5.

 

[Mandres]

$100? It looks like an 18" vintage American cast iron workhorse. That's a $600 machine around here, assuming the motor is single phase and everything is in working condition.

 

[Fyrme]

$100? It looks like an 18" vintage American cast iron workhorse. That's a $600 machine around here, assuming the motor is single phase and everything is in working condition.

Exactly! Hell just the base would bring $100 all day long here. An new saw built like that today would be close to $2k.

 

[djjsr]

I'd go about $350-400.

Where is it? I'd just like to take a look.

 

[d.mcfarland]

Those floor models with everything in tact and working are pretty sought after in the retro woodworking community.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Inspect the guide blocks and wheels for excess wear or missing altogether. Check the tires. Spin the wheels and see if they are running true.

At least $100, but I might bid up to $150.

If it has a 2 speed drive it is worth at least $50-100 more

 

[shovel]

Just one picture with no other information, I'd give $100 if it were close to me. If it were restored or otherwise in perfect working order, with a single phase motor; needing no other maintenance, I would spend $400-500. As others have said, Walker-Turners were the Cadillac bandsaws of their day. If you need any parts, they will have to be made or scrounged. Too many variables for a one picture value estimate.

 

[shoot summ]

It sometimes blows me away on the value that you guys on this board throw out. There can't be that big of a price bubble in central US. That band saw in the NE Okla, Four corners would easily bring $300. They don't give away ANYTHING old around here. There was one just like it a couple weeks ago around Joplin for $400, just a little nicer. I just paid $100 for a 1953 12" Craftsman King-Seeley with no fence or miter or stand. I needed a saw and the guy wouldn't budge $5.

I've seen them on CL in Tulsa for under $200.

There is a guy in Miami that has a WT joiner that he has been running for months for $350. I'm a huge fan of the old tools, there just isn't quite the following in this area, IMO.

 

[zkling]

WOW, lots of interesting information in this thread. I am glad gus1965 dug it up so he could include an ignorant value assessment.

It is a 14" Walker Turner bandsaw. Wood or metal don't know without seeing the back side of the unit. They are very nice, heavy, industrial capable saws. That one even has the original fence which is hard to come by. If it runs like it should and has no problems $200-$400 wood or $200-$600 for the metal version wouldn't be out of the question. Finding a new saw of the same capabilities as that one is going to be in the 1.5K+ range depending on wood or metal version.

They are nice saws, but they do have some weak points, specifically their blade tension mechanism. Therefore one needs to be careful to check it over before laying out the cash. Parts are really hard to come by, and expensive when they do show up.

For the average home show guy, a delta 14" would probably be more useful in the long run. Another downside to that WT, is you are limited in resaw capacity. You cannot add a riser block to that saw like you can a delta. Now that opens up a whole nother can of worms, but just FYI for those considering it for their shop.

 

[Fyrme]

I've seen them on CL in Tulsa for under $200.

There is a guy in Miami that has a WT joiner that he has been running for months for $350. I'm a huge fan of the old tools, there just isn't quite the following in this area, IMO.

Maybe, but not in the last year, as I look every day.
Jointers are a completely different animal. In most part of the US, from what I have seen, you can't hardly give away a jointer. Decent 6" Seeleys sit on CL for $75-$150 and never sell.

 

[catalytic]

I have to disagree with nearly all of the above posters.

The picture shows a Walker Turner bandsaw with original cast iron base and original fence attachment. It is a 16" saw and highly sought after by people who know old iron (slight possibility it is a 14" saw -- they made them, but much rarer). Think of this as a heavily upgraded Delta 14" bandsaw -- they are much heavier and have a better tensioning/bearing design than the deltas. It is also leagues beyond the 10" craftsman, etc. bandsaws -- there's just no comparison. This saw tuned up will make an ideal small shop saw.

Appraisals are always impossible since no one can see if there are any cracks and we don't know the market local to the saw. However, if the were posted for sale on the right forums, and the only thing it requires is a tuneup and fresh blades, then it would sell very quickly at $375-425 in my opinion. People often pick up the delta 14" saws with stamped bases for $150, but it's much harder find this model at that price point, particularly with an original fence.

Nice saw by the way. It's a best in class for old iron in the 14"-16" range.

 

[shoot summ]

Maybe, but not in the last year, as I look every day.
Jointers are a completely different animal. In most part of the US, from what I have seen, you can't hardly give away a jointer. Decent 6" Seeleys sit on CL for $75-$150 and never sell.

Items pop up and are sold pretty quickly on CL, then the person takes the ad down. I check multiple times a day, I have seen one in the last 6 months.

I missed this deal over the 4th, the guy still hasn't taken the ad down but it is sold.

http://tulsa.craigslist.org/tls/3912813299.html

 

[Tim338]

To me it looks like a 14" and I think a fair price is in the $200-$400 range. Parts can be had for them but they are expensive. Make sure its all there and go for it. I have a WT 12" and its a great saw.

 

[WWIIjeep]

WOW, lots of interesting information in this thread. I am glad gus1965 dug it up so he could include an ignorant value assessment.

It is a 14" Walker Turner bandsaw. Wood or metal don't know without seeing the back side of the unit. They are very nice, heavy, industrial capable saws. That one even has the original fence which is hard to come by. If it runs like it should and has no problems $200-$400 wood or $200-$600 for the metal version wouldn't be out of the question. Finding a new saw of the same capabilities as that one is going to be in the 1.5K+ range depending on wood or metal version.

They are nice saws, but they do have some weak points, specifically their blade tension mechanism. Therefore one needs to be careful to check it over before laying out the cash. Parts are really hard to come by, and expensive when they do show up.

For the average home show guy, a delta 14" would probably be more useful in the long run. Another downside to that WT, is you are limited in resaw capacity. You cannot add a riser block to that saw like you can a delta. Now that opens up a whole nother can of worms, but just FYI for those considering it for their shop.

All of the above. Excellent evaluation.

I have to disagree with nearly all of the above posters.

The picture shows a Walker Turner bandsaw with original cast iron base and original fence attachment. It is a 16" saw and highly sought after by people who know old iron (slight possibility it is a 14" saw -- they made them, but much rarer).

I'm almost positive it's the 14" model, not the 16" model. They're almost identical in appearance (especially when viewed from a cell phone photo), but the throat height on the 16" model is 5" more than on the 14" model, and that one looks like the lower throat height.

Otherwise, I absolutely agree with the rest of your evaluation.

That power switch look sot be 1) totally in the way for blade changes, and 2) Almost useless during use... (Negotiation point)

The switch is attached to the lower door assembly (which sticks up along that section) and swings open for blade changes. Not in the way at all.

Why is it "almost useless during use"?

The OEM switch location was under the table, on the right side and in line with the blade. THAT was almost useless (and dangerous) during use, plus, it gets covered with chips and sawdust. The location over on the left side is a common aftermarket installation and is a lot easier to reach than just about anywhere else on the saw.

The 14" Walker-Turner weighs almost 500 lbs. and is one of the heaviest 14" saws ever made. When set up properly, with good bearings, balanced wheels and properly-crowned tires, it's one of the smoothest-running saws you'll ever find.

Parts are hard to come by though, as zkling said, and we can't tell anything about the condition from the photo, except that it looks like it's in pretty good original condition, and has the somewhat rare original fence accessory and guide bar. It even looks like it has an original seller's decal on the upper wheel cover.

It's definitely worth serious consideration, and it's worth far more than $100, even untested, because the fence and guide bar are worth more than that by themselves.

 

[Outlawmws]

SNIP

The switch is attached to the lower door assembly (which sticks up along that section) and swings open for blade changes. Not in the way at all.

Why is it "almost useless during use"?

The OEM switch location was under the table, on the right side and in line with the blade. THAT was almost useless (and dangerous) during use, plus, it gets covered with chips and sawdust. The location over on the left side is a common aftermarket installation and is a lot easier to reach than just about anywhere else on the saw.SNIP.

I don't know where the loop of cord is going or what it may be attached to, but it looks like you can't change blades with it there.

Band saw switch position is always a pain in the a$$, but I don't like it there as I'm usually in front of the band saw, not on that side. If you are resawing wood, you are really out away from the switch. Actually I'm leaning towards a "dead man" master foot switch for damn near all floor power tools these days, as many are just too difficult to hit when you do need an emergency shutoff.

YMMV

 

[WWIIjeep]

I don't know where the loop of cord is going or what it may be attached to, but it looks like you can't change blades with it there.

Ah, OK. I just assumed that's the plug end of the power cord, looped through there for storage. In use, it would be hanging off to the left.

I would have wired it differently, so that there was only one cord hanging from the switch, with the plug end of the power cord coming out somewhere near the bottom of the saw.

Agreed on band saw switches often being a PITA. My big metalcutting band saw has the motor starter push-buttons up on the side like that and I like it that way, but my 14" Delta has the OEM switch down on the base cabinet, and the older I get, the harder it is to stand back up straight again after reaching down to it.

 

[Ramper]

Here is the link: https://www.auctionflex.com/showlot.ap?co=59683&weiid=12303142&lang=en

 

[Outlawmws]

Ah, OK. I just assumed that's the plug end of the power cord, looped through there for storage. In use, it would be hanging off to the left.

I would have wired it differently, so that there was only one cord hanging from the switch, with the plug end of the power cord coming out somewhere near the bottom of the saw.

Agreed on band saw switches often being a PITA. My big metalcutting band saw has the motor starter push-buttons up on the side like that and I like it that way, but my 14" Delta has the OEM switch down on the base cabinet, and the older I get, the harder it is to stand back up straight again after reaching down to it.

Yeah, I thought about that while I was posting my response, but I've seen so many stupid things with add on's, I never assume anymore...

I did find a DM switch awhile back but it's old and not high power. What I want is a good one the I can jack into an outlet, and then plug the tool into it. (Actually I want one for each of my stationary tools, plus a couple of spares for growth, but let's be realistic... )

 

[catalytic]

All of the above. Excellent evaluation.

I'm almost positive it's the 14" model, not the 16" model. They're almost identical in appearance (especially when viewed from a cell phone photo), but the throat height on the 16" model is 5" more than on the 14" model, and that one looks like the lower throat height.

Otherwise, I absolutely agree with the rest of your evaluation.

Nice catch!

To the OP -- I didn't realize it was in an auction. Most of us who are into old iron have been burned by our first time online industrial auctions (and also find the occasional diamond in the rough). I definitely recommend a thorough in-person inspection. You'll note that people who attend them professionally account for transportation costs, rigger's fees (often mandatory), and a high probability of unseen damage from being rigged to the auction site when they make a bid. It's a much different game than bidding on consumer online auction sites with buyer protection, buying from guys here, etc.

Bandsaws like this are simple beasts. If you're lucky, You'll probably only need to replace the wiring, pull the wheels and replace the bearings, and possibly touch up the crown or re-align the wheels.

If it's three-phase, then a VFD is a quick and easy solution (My bet is that the motor is 1/2-3/4hp, and you can get a VFD to power it on single phase 120V for around $100 new.)

I would be much more worried about a cracked table trunnion. That's basically a deal breaker in my opinion. Same goes for any cracks in the main casting (yes you can weld/braze, but I would just move on). Many people lift or push by the table and crack the trunnion. Always lift under the arm that holds the upper wheel or under the whole saw (support it with something so you don't tip it). This saw could also be moved with a hand truck if you're feeling strong (use straps!)

Also, check the guides. They are replaceable, but costly.

 

[WWIIjeep]

This saw could also be moved with a hand truck if you're feeling strong (use straps!)

It certainly can be moved that way, but it weighs about 500 lbs, so you'll need a "good" hand truck or better yet, an appliance hand truck with straps and nice long handles for good leverage and balance.

Bringing a (strong) helper along wouldn't hurt, assuming they'll let you do your own rigging if you win it.

Many people lift or push by the table and crack the trunnion. Always lift under the arm that holds the upper wheel or under the whole saw (support it with something so you don't tip it).

Sometimes it's best to remove the table for moving, especially if you want to hand truck it from the front or rear.

 

[Ramper]

Funny thing is there is a Rockwell Model 14 for sale near me for $295:
http://rmn.craigslist.org/tls/3918477424.html