Bar grating

[bluedog225]

Good afternoon,

I’d appreciate some input before I place an order for galvanized bar grating. I’m trying to decide between smooth and serrated. I’m leaning pretty heavily towards serrated because falling on my *** is getting less and less fun as I get older.

I know it’s not going to be the kindest material to use as decking. But it does fit my theme and wild fires are a pretty serious concern in the immediate area. The whole structure is built to be pretty fire resistant. When I’m in residence, I can put teak or ipe wood pavers out.

The bar grating is the last ingredient needed before we can take on this job. There will be a deck up top under the garage door. And one on the bottom. All resting on the H-beams. Those will be attached to large galvanized angle iron attached to the walls.

Over the years (mostly from craigslist), I have assembled almost all the materials. I need to put a deck on the front of the cabin.

-six long 6” x 6” x 1/4” galvanized steel columns (4 for vertical and 2 for horizontal) that were auctioned off from TXDOT.
-16 foot deep drilled, reinforced concrete piers ready to pour a plinth on with welding plates.
-50 or so 4”x6” galvanized H-beams for joists.

And I’ve got an excavator operator with a gin pole attachment who is ready to handle the job. Along with his son who is a welder working for and trained by the utility company. I’ve had some work done by the son and his welds look great.

The last thing I need to get is galvanized bar grating for the deck and a couple of specifications from the engineer.

All the bar grating I have currently is serrated. As is my expanded metal decking. I’m thinking smooth bar grating is going to be slick as snot. But I can’t recall the last time I walked on it wet. I thought you guys would know.

Thanks

 

[Dixie_Flatline]

Someone will be along to tell me I am wrong, but I seem to recall the serrated stuff being just as slick as the smooth, but with the added benefit of acting like a grater when you fell on it.

 

[nmk_61802]

Not sure of your full plans, but do you plan to sit, kneel, stand for extended periods or any of the like? If so I would not used serrated as it is very uncomfortable for anything other than walking across. This is in addition to the falling point made above.

 

[Shiftless]

Not sure of your full plans, but do you plan to sit, kneel, stand for extended periods or any of the like? If so I would not used serrated as it is very uncomfortable for anything other than walking across. This is in addition to the falling point made above.

The teak or ipe pavers the OP mentioned should take care of those problems.

 

[bluedog225]

I only plan to walk on it with shoes or sandals. There will be a table and chairs. I’m not much of a lay out on the deck type. There may be an 8’x8’ or so teak platform for the wife to yoga or whatever.

It would have never occurred to me that the serrated could be slick. The expanded metal stuff I have is pretty grippy even with wet mud covered boots. Maybe it’s more aggressive than serrated grating?

I bet falling on it would be awful.

 

[PCustoms]

But it does fit my theme and wild fires are a pretty serious concern in the immediate area. The whole structure is built to be pretty fire resistant.

Off topic, but if wildfires are a big enough concern to not use wood decking then I think you need to clear a lot of brush and overgrowth away from the building

 

[manwithtools]

Off topic, but if wildfires are a big enough concern to not use wood decking then I think you need to clear a lot of brush and overgrowth away from the building

Not off topic at all! The first rule on fire is defensibility, cleared undergrowth back at least 100' if not 150' is fundamental! That place is begging for wildfire intrusion.

 

[bluedog225]

Off topic, but if wildfires are a big enough concern to not use wood decking then I think you need to clear a lot of brush and overgrowth away from the building

The 2011 Bastrop fire got about 3000 homes from memory. Lots of talk about wood decks bringing the fire to the houses. My place is the other side of that smoke wall. Missed me by a mile or two.

The second fire, forget the year, got about 8 acres of my place.

Agreed on the clearing. I’ve been working on a good defensible space around the cabin but for 3 trees. And I’ve got the chainsaws at the ready if they need to go.

The undergrowth was pushed back pretty good since these photos when I had equipment out there for septic and water line out there. I’ve still got what I would call “woods” on one side in the ignition zone that need to be pushed back. Just takes time and money.

150’ is going to be a stretch regarding clearing all trees but can keep the youpon and other brush down to keep fuel at a minimum.

anyway, not interested in a big wooden or plastic deck attached the place. The rest of the building is fire resistant construction.

 

[bluedog225]

I wasn’t sure what to expect on the quote. Steel has gotten spendy.

 

[BearsFan315]

we used serrated for our last project. more traction especially if wet.
we got it direct from https://www.mcnichols.com/bar-grating
look at pricing for aluminum, steel. and stainless. we ended up stainless as it will be used in salt water environment !!

 

[nmk_61802]

The teak or ipe pavers the OP mentioned should take care of those problems.

I had missed that the OP had plans to place something over the top of the decking.... I wasn't looking for that since it seems very counter intuitive to spend money on the steel decking only to cover with wood to use as intended.

Edit to add: I know the OP said they don't want a wooden or plastic deck, but in the interest of general discussion, aren't IPE and many of the composite deck boards considered burn resistant as well and many times test as good as steel?

 

[Shiftless]

I had missed that the OP had plans to place something over the top of the decking.... I wasn't looking for that since it seems very counter intuitive to spend money on the steel decking only to cover with wood to use as intended.

It does until you realize that wooden decking in a very high fire hazard severity zone is not a good idea. The OP is away from that house a lot so he plans to put the wood pieces away when he is not using them. Of course it is extra work that not everybody would do, but if it means his house won’t burn up in a wildfire, maybe it’s worth some extra effort.

 

[Fixr]

Good afternoon,

I’d appreciate some input before I place an order for galvanized bar grating. I’m trying to decide between smooth and serrated. I’m leaning pretty heavily towards serrated because falling on my *** is getting less and less fun as I get older.

I know it’s not going to be the kindest material to use as decking. But it does fit my theme and wild fires are a pretty serious concern in the immediate area. The whole structure is built to be pretty fire resistant. When I’m in residence, I can put teak or ipe wood pavers out.

The bar grating is the last ingredient needed before we can take on this job. There will be a deck up top under the garage door. And one on the bottom. All resting on the H-beams. Those will be attached to large galvanized angle iron attached to the walls.

Over the years (mostly from craigslist), I have assembled almost all the materials. I need to put a deck on the front of the cabin.

-six long 6” x 6” x 1/4” galvanized steel columns (4 for vertical and 2 for horizontal) that were auctioned off from TXDOT.
-16 foot deep drilled, reinforced concrete piers ready to pour a plinth on with welding plates.
-50 or so 4”x6” galvanized H-beams for joists.

And I’ve got an excavator operator with a gin pole attachment who is ready to handle the job. Along with his son who is a welder working for and trained by the utility company. I’ve had some work done by the son and his welds look great.

The last thing I need to get is galvanized bar grating for the deck and a couple of specifications from the engineer.

All the bar grating I have currently is serrated. As is my expanded metal decking. I’m thinking smooth bar grating is going to be slick as snot. But I can’t recall the last time I walked on it wet. I thought you guys would know.

Thanks

If you will put the wood on it when you arrive and pull it up before you leave, I wouldn't worry a lot about the serrated stuff being worse to fall on. Better traction while you are installing and removing the wood decking. Not like it's likely to be icy & slick while you are doing that in the Bastrop area.

 

[manwithtools]

It does until you realize that wooden decking in a very high fire hazard severity zone is not a good idea. The OP is away from that house a lot so he plans to put the wood pieces away when he is not using them. Of course it is extra work that not everybody would do, but if it means his house won’t burn up in a wildfire, maybe it’s worth some extra effort.

If you will put the wood on it when you arrive and pull it up before you leave, I wouldn't worry a lot about the serrated stuff being worse to fall on. Better traction while you are installing and removing the wood decking. Not like it's likely to be icy & slick while you are doing that in the Bastrop area.

What........................................

I'm not getting any of this....

What did I miss about putting the deck away? Who in all humanity does this?

 

[bluedog225]

What........................................

I'm not getting any of this....

What did I miss about putting the deck away? Who in all humanity does this?

 

[NUTTSGT]

I wasn’t sure what to expect on the quote. Steel has gotten spendy.

Bar grating is expensive. I learned that when I bought a rusty piece for the torch table extension on my welding table.

What about anti-slip channel ?

 

[manwithtools]

Yeah, sure. Make me believe that Mister "Restore" will do this faithfully.

I'm sorry, I just don't believe that anyone is going to install and remove a wooden deck on every trip to the cabin.

 

[bluedog225]

Yeah, sure. Make me believe that Mister "Restore" will do this faithfully.

I'm sorry, I just don't believe that anyone is going to install and remove a wooden deck on every trip to the cabin.

I thought I mentioned an 8’x8’ section. Otherwise, no other cover. Easy when needed.

 

[bluedog225]

Bar grating is expensive. I learned that when I bought a rusty piece for the torch table extension on my welding table.

What about anti-slip channel ?

I need to price that.

 

[Fixr]

Yeah, sure. Make me believe that Mister "Restore" will do this faithfully.

I'm sorry, I just don't believe that anyone is going to install and remove a wooden deck on every trip to the cabin.

People who have been around wildfires sometimes change their priorities. But if he leaves the wood in place, the serrations won't matter.

 

[manwithtools]

People who have been around wildfires sometimes change their priorities. But if he leaves the wood in place, the serrations won't matter.

I recently lived 5 years in high risk fire country in North East San Diego county. I know what fire priorities are. Pulling up wooden decks is not part of the drill.

 

[Fixr]

I recently lived 5 years in high risk fire country in North East San Diego county. I know what fire priorities are. Pulling up wooden decks is not part of the drill.

I was thinking of pulling up the wooden decks before leaving for the season, not when the fire is approaching. Reduce the fire risk a bit when you won't be there to do anything else.

 

[manwithtools]

I wish the OP the best of luck. Not sure I agree with the methodology, but nonetheless

 

[Hank11]

Concrete. Use your steel to hold up some metal decking and pour concrete on it.

 

[545_days]

While serrated grating is less slippery than flat bar grating, in my experience it is still pretty damn slippery, and much worse to fall down on.

 

[jack stand]

Your building it in such a way that attaching deck pans and pouring a suspended concrete deck would be a natural solution (as @Hank11 suggested) and might come in a little less expensive than bar grating. That wouldn't require moving around a bunch of wood panels for a weekend visit.

 

[bluedog225]

Your building it in such a way that attaching deck pans and pouring a suspended concrete deck would be a natural solution (as @Hank11 suggested) and might come in a little less expensive than bar grating. That wouldn't require moving around a bunch of wood panels for a weekend visit.

That would be an option. Though when I open that lower barn door, I have a great view to the east. Down a hill and across wooded parkland. Not a structure in sight. And the morning sun fills the workshop.

A concrete deck would make it pretty dark. And every time I see the bottom of a concrete deck like that, the metal is rusty and looks like heck.

I’m really not too worried about making softer more friendly surface when someone wants to lay out.

 

[Dixie_Flatline]

What about one of those flame retardant sprays/coatings for wood? If you did the fire mitigation clearing around the property then it would just be embers to worry about landing on the wood.

 

[Stuart in MN]

To make sure I understand, this is for an outside deck on the building? Will you be using it for relaxing/entertaining (in other words, sitting out there on a chair or barbecuing)? That metal stuff looks like it would be awful uncomfortable, and your chair legs are going to get caught in it.
This may be out in left field, but I worked a summer back in college for a company called Strongwell. They make a variety of fiberglass and composite products, including decking materials. It was originally developed for use in animal pens, but it also works nicely for residential decks. It has a non-slip surface and won't rot. This is a picture of the original style with T-slot members but they make over types as well.

Strongwell

World Leader in Pultruded Fiberglass Components

www.strongwell.com