Barn door track location

[Zaffer]

Okay, so I know barn doors have been discussed A LOT here, but looking for an answer to a specific question.

Until I raise/rebuild the roof on my existing building, I am going to use barn doors for the main door (82”H x 96”W).

My questions is this: do I hang the track directly on the headers or put up the siding first, then hang the doors? Using T-111 style siding.

I’m still framing in the doorway, but this is how it currently sits as I JUST had a pad poured on Thursday. You can see the header on the other door and the track will continue onto that header as well, which is the same height. The other door will be a standard roll-up door.

Thanks!

 

[Zeke]

On top of the siding would be how I would do it.

 

[Zaffer]

That’s what I was thinking, just didn’t know if it really mattered. I know it would make about 1/2” difference in depth, but I guess I can make that up with trim. I know it’ll never be airtight, but wouldn’t mind making it somewhat airtight from a heating and cooling standpoint, though even this will be sporadic based on what I need to use it for.

 

[Zeke]

I'm thinking more about ending the siding above the track and how that would look. If it was corrugated I wouldn't say that. You say this might be temporary. For the permanent installation you could do a valance style box over the track and end the siding at the box.

Slant the top of the box.

 

[Zaffer]

I guess the next question would concern the header: should I counter sink it so it’s flush with the building or attach it on top and block it? The example photo below (not my building) shows the blocking method I’m talking about, essentially a stringer?

Countersinking would get the door closer to the building, but then I’d have to countersink the girts as well, which I have room to do as it’s 2x6’s, but obviously requires more work. blocking would be faster but that section of the building would stick out an additional 1-1/2”. The headers on both doors line up height wise, so the door track would be attached to both headers. The other doorway will be a traditional roll up door. I will be adding more structure and girts, just want to get my ducks in a row before committing.

 

[bluedog225]

If i understand correctly, you can thicken the barn door at the edges. Closes the gap and leaves the face of the building looking right.

 

[Mike65]

When I hung the track for the barn door I made for my basement woodworking shop I put a lot of blocking in the wall to attach the barn door track to. Then I put up the siding then the barn door track & hung the door.

 

[Zaffer]

Here’s my dilemma: I can either countersink the header and girts to make everything flush or face install the header and have it stick out 1-1/2”. Trim will cover the end of the board, but it will be that way across the entire front. I’m using Hardiplank shiplap siding over 1/4” OSB sheathing, so that MIGHT make things a little more tricky. The existing siding will come off. If I don’t countersink the header/girts, there will be a trim piece between the 2 doorways to ease the transition visually.

Not sure if the pictures make things any more clear.

 

[Zaffer]

The other caveat is I’ll have to block the header regardless due to it being 4x6’s as I’m not going to notch out 3-1/2” for a traditional header. At this point I’m leaning towards attaching the header to the face all of the way across and using it as a “break” in the siding. It will be painted. Any real downsides to this, other than possibly visual?