Barn heat options

[E1271]

I'm throwing around new ideas on how I'll heat my barn. The barn specifics are 32x56x14. 8x16x8 bathroom in a corner which will be heated 100% of the winter for frost protection. I have electricity out to the barn but not a gas line, propane. I could run a gas line, the cost would be minimal.

My original plan was to use a wood burner (furnace) to unregularly heat the main part of the barn. Some weekends only, kind of situation. In the bathroom my plan was to install a small electric heater to maintain around 50F all of the time. I have weighed the risks and insurance troubles with the wood fired furnace.

Thought two is to run the gas line and install gas heating appliances. Probably a ceiling mounted modine or reznor type furnace for the main shop and still only plan to heat on occasion. For ease of use I'm sure I'll keep it more comfortable than I would with wood, more often than needed but it'll be convenient as heck! Then I'll find something small and as efficient as possible for the bathroom.

My question is this - what would be more economical and practical. How much would it really cost me to use propane instead of electricity. The barn is very well insulated with a good vapor barrier, R-33 in the walls and R-60 in the ceiling. I don't remember the garage door specifics but it's a well insulated door. I'm not sure it matters a whole lot but the floor is insulated with 1.5" rigid below the bathroom and 16" down around the entire perimeter of the barn.

Is my OCD too strong?

 

[PoorUB]

.15 per KWh electricity in electric forced air heater is roughly equivalent to $3 propane in an 80% heater, figuring price per BTU.
A mini split will knock that electric cost down quite a bit, half to a third on the average. But we need to know if you are on the north slope of Alaska, or Florida. A mini split heat pump might not heat the building in server cold, but if you are on a slightly more temperate climate they can be a good choice.

The bathroom, I would insulate it well, keep all the water inside the bathroom and put in an electric baseboard heater.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Mini splits are expensive to install, but they are very cost effective to run. Bonus of course is A/C. If you are only going to use heat occasionally, it will take a long time to pay back. Wood is one of the cheapest forms of heat (assuming you harvest it and process it yourself). Many insurance company will not insure buildings with wood heat.

Electric baseboard is inexpensive and easy to install. For a small room with good insulation it is a reasonable option.

 

[Bert_]

My thoughts,

Electric in the bathroom, either baseboard or fan forced. Gas heater in the shop.

Like was mentioned above it would be nice to know your location.

 

[E1271]

Wow, thanks for the replys! I am in mid Michigan, sorry I didn't think to mention it but now it seems silly to not have. Mini split won't be real efficient for the main purpose and reasoning, to heat. Maybe they have become more efficient at lower temperatures but i know my heat pump for my house looses efficency pretty dramatically at 40-45F which is when I start Bruning inside. I currently harvest, cut, split, and stack wood for heating. I heat 98% with wood using roughly 3/4 of a 500 gallon propane tank annually.

I liked the idea of doing gas in the shop and stay electric in the bathroom. I will need to do something ceiling mounted due to floor space being highly valuable. There will be a lot of cabinets around most of the bathroom.

Do you thinking having that bathroom heated to 60 all the time would keep the entire barn above freezing?

Honestly I'm not really picky when it comes to being chilly, I just don't prefer it to be 30 and below when I'm trying to work on stuff but I can tell as I get older, I'm 36 now, that I really like the convenience of 60 at the touch if a button!

Any other thought provoking ideas and questions? This is great and really has me thinking honestly. I think a mini split is out of the equation, for now.

 

[Copymutt]

Just my preference.
All of those options tie you to a cost of energy that never goes down, may have a base charge for which you receive no benefit and in the case of LPG or Nat. Gas may need replacing due to age related rust out. For a build that is not occupied 100% of the time I’d go w/ a wood stove or furnace. Nothing wrong w/ getting some exercise processing firewood. Im fortunate to have the best passive solar incidence in the country so I combine both. A wood stove never goes off line due to fallen trees, quite the opposite. Even natural gas may require electricity to be delivered.

 

[E1271]

Just my preference.
All of those options tie you to a cost of energy that never goes down, may have a base charge for which you receive no benefit and in the case of LPG or Nat. Gas may need replacing due to age related rust out. For a build that is not occupied 100% of the time I’d go w/ a wood stove or furnace. Nothing wrong w/ getting some exercise processing firewood. Im fortunate to have the best passive solar incidence in the country so I combine both. A wood stove never goes off line due to fallen trees, quite the opposite. Even natural gas may require electricity to be delivered.

My honest thoughts coincide with yours. I already process an excessive amount of wood, what's a little more!!

Maybe I should plumb a gas line from an exterior stub on the building up into the attic just for funsies, before I finish the interior, in case I get old some day.

Attached area few pictures of the building so far. It's a big deal and is taking some time but it's something I really love.

 

[ericm]

What are you doing in the barn? If you are storing hay or have animals you may want something different than if it's a workshop. The garden tractor pic looks like workshop.

The big drawback to a stove is that it takes a long time to heat the stove and even longer for the heat from the stove to heat the air and objects in the room. If you want to pop in and work for a couple hours it may take most of that time before it warms up appreciably. And the other is that it's an ignition source for any flammable fumes. Some insurance companies don't allow them depending on the use of the building.

For me a stove is great for the house, where it can be tended and fed. I'd like the shop to be warm enough to work in when I get there.

A mini split will also give you A/C. Some have freeze protection mode where you can set the heating temp to 46 degrees or therebouts, but most have a minimum heating temp around 62. A gas furnace will probably heat up the space faster after you open a garage door and let out a bunch of warm air than a mini split will.

 

[pcmeiners]

What is you total electric kilowatt cost with taxes and surcharges. what is your propane cost per gallon delivered?

Mini split won't be real efficient for the main purpose and reasoning, to heat. Maybe they have become more efficient at lower temperatures but i know my heat pump for my house looses efficiency pretty dramatically at 40-45F

Technology has progress rapidly with minisplits. The new low temp minisplits are much more efficient at low temperatures and can heat in the minus degree days at > 100% of there rating.



Propane is more than 2.5 times as expensive as an efficient minisplit, 3 times as expensive as a very efficient mini split. As the OldWizard1 points out, the negative to a minisplit is the installation cost for a "pro" to do the install. Below is a spreadsheet with national average fuel cost, I modified the electric cost of Michigan's average cost of $.19

 

[SCWOOD]

SunStar Heating Products Garage Tube Heater,Natural Gas, 45,000 BTU, Model# SIR45-15-N https://www.northerntool.com/produc...l-gas-45-000-btu-model-sir45-15-n-16278?gQT=1 this style gas heater was installed where I used to work. I was very impressed with them.​

 

[E1271]

What is you total electric kilowatt cost with taxes and surcharges. what is your propane cost per gallon delivered?



Technology has progress rapidly with minisplits. The new low temp minisplits are much more efficient at low temperatures and can heat in the minus degree days at > 100% of there rating.



Propane is more than 2.5 times as expensive as an efficient minisplit, 3 times as expensive as a very efficient mini split. As the OldWizard1 points out, the negative to a minisplit is the installation cost for a "pro" to do the install. Below is a spreadsheet with national average fuel cost, I modified the electric cost of Michigan's average cost of $.19

Thank you, this is very informative.

I'm sure glad my post per cord of wood isn't $275!!

 

[AC-WC]

Wow, thanks for the replys! I am in mid Michigan, sorry I didn't think to mention it but now it seems silly to not have. Mini split won't be real efficient for the main purpose and reasoning, to heat. Maybe they have become more efficient at lower temperatures but i know my heat pump for my house looses efficency pretty dramatically at 40-45F which is when I start Bruning inside. I currently harvest, cut, split, and stack wood for heating. I heat 98% with wood using roughly 3/4 of a 500 gallon propane tank annually.

I liked the idea of doing gas in the shop and stay electric in the bathroom. I will need to do something ceiling mounted due to floor space being highly valuable. There will be a lot of cabinets around most of the bathroom.

Do you thinking having that bathroom heated to 60 all the time would keep the entire barn above freezing?

Honestly I'm not really picky when it comes to being chilly, I just don't prefer it to be 30 and below when I'm trying to work on stuff but I can tell as I get older, I'm 36 now, that I really like the convenience of 60 at the touch if a button!

Any other thought provoking ideas and questions? This is great and really has me thinking honestly. I think a mini split is out of the equation, for now.

Even with your insulation it will take a while to heat up that space with wood. A lot to be said for 'flicking a switch' for heat.
Your bathroom at 60 will not do much if anything for the rest of the barn. Mom's horse barn bathroom has been up to 75 in the winter and it did nothing for the rest of the barn because it's well insulated. She has a baseboard electric on a thermostat. It's typically at 40-50 during the winter.

 

[pcmeiners]

I'm sure glad my post per cord of wood isn't $275!!

That is the national average, guess that is delivered. Your cost must be a couple gallons of gas, couple of chainsaw blades, some hunger, and hot water to soak your back.

 

[ipgenie]

What is you total electric kilowatt cost with taxes and surcharges. what is your propane cost per gallon delivered?

My dad was complaining about the high delivery cost of his electricity the other day when discussing adding electric load to his home. His per kilowatt rate is $0.06 before delivery and taxes/fees. I told him if he's going to have a meter and grid connection, the delivery cost is a sunk cost and that he should focus only on the per kilowatt cost for any loads he's thinking about adding.
That delivery cost will be the same with or without the mini split and the only increased expense is the per kilowatt hour price of the electricity used when it is running.
Calculating it this way is more accurate and shows electricity can have an even bigger advantage over propane costs.

One possible exception to consider is that some utilities charge a higher rate once you reach a specific amount of kilowatt hours each billing cycle. Tiered pricing. If the mini split will push you into a higher priced tier, you have to consider that electricity usage at the higher per kilowatt rate.

 

[pcmeiners]

My dad was complaining about the high delivery cost of his electricity the other day when discussing adding electric load to his home. His per kilowatt rate is $0.06.

Your father should be giving thanks to the utility gods for that KW price. Now if he lived in San Fransisco he would have a right to complain.

"As of January 1, 2024, the average cost of electricity in San Francisco is 45 cents per kilowatt-hour (kWh) for Pacific Gas & Electric (PG&E) customers. However, the cost per kWh can range from 34 to 72 cents per kWh depending on the time of day, season, and rate schedule"

 

[dcg9381]

My dad was complaining about the high delivery cost of his electricity the other day when discussing adding electric load to his home. His per kilowatt rate is $0.06 before delivery and taxes/fees. I told him if he's going to have a meter and grid connection, the delivery cost is a sunk cost and that he should focus only on the per kilowatt cost for any loads he's thinking about adding.

You have it right. our per Base power cost per kWh cost is only about 50% of the bill. You have to look at total power cost:




It's hard to calculate the cost of propane as it varies so much. I paid a "discounted" rate of $2.99/gallon in October. Seems like that's way over most people up north.

 

[PoorUB]

My dad was complaining about the high delivery cost of his electricity the other day when discussing adding electric load to his home. His per kilowatt rate is $0.06 before delivery and taxes/fees. I told him if he's going to have a meter and grid connection, the delivery cost is a sunk cost and that he should focus only on the per kilowatt cost for any loads he's thinking about adding.

I don't agree with that at all, but it depends on how the extra charges are calculated. For example, I get a straight charge of $18 a month for a meter and delivery charge, so that doesn't change with the amount of gas I use, but they do add some other charges that are a percentage of my use. Luckily, in my case they add a couple cents per therm, so not a huge amount.

Same with my price per KWh. I have seen bills for other people where the price per KWh is pretty low, like 6 cents but the added other charges that are a percentage of use bump the rate to twice that. A person really needs to study their bill and understand what they are getting charged. Anytime I calculate energy costs per KWh or therm I get the whole bill and average it out.
I keep a Excel spreadsheet of my utilities and because of the way I average the cost me price per therm for gas runs low in the winter with higher usage than it does in the summer where I use a bit of gas for hot water and a gas dryer. In the summer the meter charge is more than my gas usage.

A few years ago our natural gas price went up, about 70 cents per therm. but then they added a fuel clause adjustment based of the number of therms and it doubled the price of the gas , so about $140 a therm.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I heat my garage with wood and it's the sole source of heat.

I also have a bathroom but it's not 8x16. All the water comes in under the slab to a frost free hydrant. From there to the toilet/sink.

I burn a fire every day I'm off work.... supposed to be 2 out of 3 days. But with OT, I go many times, with 2-3 day spans without a fire. The key is getting the heat in the 'crete.

A baseboard would be great in the bathroom, but as you mentioned, a lot of cupboards.

I would check and double check with your insurance company for wood burner before you go too far planning.

 

[ipgenie]

I heat my garage with wood and it's the sole source of heat.

I also have a bathroom but it's not 8x16. All the water comes in under the slab to a frost free hydrant. From there to the toilet/sink.

I burn a fire every day I'm off work.... supposed to be 2 out of 3 days. But with OT, I go many times, with 2-3 day spans without a fire. The key is getting the heat in the 'crete.

A baseboard would be great in the bathroom, but as you mentioned, a lot of cupboards.

I would check and double check with your insurance company for wood burner before you go too far planning.

If your bathroom cupboards have a toe kick, you might look at using a toe kick heater.

 

[ipgenie]

I don't agree with that at all, but it depends on how the extra charges are calculated...

It will definitely differ from one utility to the next and fees based on usage are definitely part of the per kilowatt hour costs.
That can also change. Our utility is currently going through a multi year transition to split up the delivery costa and power costs. For 20 years the delivery costs or meter fee was $5 and aside from a few very small fees that were largely offset by energy credits, the rest was charged per kilowatt hour. In two years our delivery costs will be about $30 and per kilowatt hour costs should be lower but that has also been increasing so it wouldn't surprise me to see an overall increase of $25 on the total bill by then.

In my dad's case, there are no tiered rates and the fees are not variable based on use so his REAL cost to add a load like a mini split is only the 6 cents per kilowatt hour use charge and associated tax. The $50 delivery/meter/fees cost is being paid along with his current usage and would not change with or without the added load.

 

[mikedodge]

Do an electric baseboard on the bathroom. No need for anything more. If it's insulated it'll be fine.
How often do you plan on using the barn and needing heat? If it's not too often a force flow electric heater of some sort would be the simplest choice or wood stove. Gas is more up front investment so you have to ask yourself if it's really worth it.
I have a radiant tube heater (gas). If im using my shop weekly I leave it low and crank it up to normal temp when I'm there.
I know some people who use those propane tank heaters when they only need heat occasionally or torpedo heaters.

 

[E1271]

I heat my garage with wood and it's the sole source of heat.

I also have a bathroom but it's not 8x16. All the water comes in under the slab to a frost free hydrant. From there to the toilet/sink.

I burn a fire every day I'm off work.... supposed to be 2 out of 3 days. But with OT, I go many times, with 2-3 day spans without a fire. The key is getting the heat in the 'crete.

A baseboard would be great in the bathroom, but as you mentioned, a lot of cupboards.

I would check and double check with your insurance company for wood burner before you go too far planning.

Thanks for the advice. On the 2-3 days you don't burn does thr barn return to freezing temps, or does it hold the heat well?

 

[E1271]

Do an electric baseboard on the bathroom. No need for anything more. If it's insulated it'll be fine.
How often do you plan on using the barn and needing heat? If it's not too often a force flow electric heater of some sort would be the simplest choice or wood stove. Gas is more up front investment so you have to ask yourself if it's really worth it.
I have a radiant tube heater (gas). If im using my shop weekly I leave it low and crank it up to normal temp when I'm there.
I know some people who use those propane tank heaters when they only need heat occasionally or torpedo heaters.

You make good points, I could keep using the torpedo heater! I'd like something different, long term.

 

[AC-WC]

You have it right. our per Base power cost per kWh cost is only about 50% of the bill. You have to look at total power cost:




It's hard to calculate the cost of propane as it varies so much. I paid a "discounted" rate of $2.99/gallon in October. Seems like that's way over most people up north.

Yeah, you got ripped but it's all about the timing the purchase. I watch propane prices (Mont Bellvieu) daily and bought mine back in July/Aug time around $1.50/gal. That's the historical low time period but year before it was much higher.

 

[mepstein]

I would definitely plumb for the propane. Even if you don't run it right away, you can add it later when the drudgery of keeping the wood stove running gets old. It's never a bad idea to have choices and it's always cheaper to do before the building is finished.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Thanks for the advice. On the 2-3 days you don't burn does thr barn return to freezing temps, or does it hold the heat well?

Usually holds to low 50's. Of course, that is dependent on outdoor temps and wind speed/directions. Overhead doors face north so cold winds out of the north have more effect on it holding heat.

If you scroll through my Garage Refurb thread, you can see how I have insulated it and what I have done over the years to do so... might kill an evening.

 

[E1271]

I would definitely plumb for the propane. Even if you don't run it right away, you can add it later when the drudgery of keeping the wood stove running gets old. It's never a bad idea to have choices and it's always cheaper to do before the building is finished.

I agree 100%

Usually holds to low 50's. Of course, that is dependent on outdoor temps and wind speed/directions. Overhead doors face north so cold winds out of the north have more effect on it holding heat.

If you scroll through my Garage Refurb thread, you can see how I have insulated it and what I have done over the years to do so... might kill an evening.

Thanks, I'll take a look.

 

[Yankeefarmer]

As a lifelong wood burner, I am no longer a fan of wood to heat a shop in a detached building, unless it’s heated by a wood boiler feeding multiple buildings. I found that I tended to get so involved in the work I was doing that I’d neglect to feed the stove and the fire would have to be rebuilt because It was getting chilly in the shop.

 

[NUTTSGT]

As a lifelong wood burner, I am no longer a fan of wood to heat a shop in a detached building, unless it’s heated by a wood boiler feeding multiple buildings. I found that I tended to get so involved in the work I was doing that I’d neglect to feed the stove and the fire would have to be rebuilt because It was getting chilly in the shop.

I have a wood furnace, not a "stove". . . Per say.

Its a sheet metal box surrounding the firebox, with a blower to move the warm air into duct work.

On top of the furnace, I have a small glass jar candle, unlit. When the fire is going, I can glance over to see all of wax melted. If I see it half solid or more, I know it's time to add wood.

Doing it long enough, it becomes second nature to look over.

 

[dcg9381]

Yeah, you got ripped but it's all about the timing the purchase. I watch propane prices (Mont Bellvieu) daily and bought mine back in July/Aug time around $1.50/gal. That's the historical low time period but year before it was much higher.

It's regional. I'm not sure what it is, as we're producing the oil and gas here, but for some reason it's always MUCH cheaper in the mid-western to northern states. We're easily $1/gallon over what you pay.

 

[Yankeefarmer]

I have a wood furnace, not a "stove". . . Per say.

Its a sheet metal box surrounding the firebox, with a blower to move the warm air into duct work.

On top of the furnace, I have a small glass jar candle, unlit. When the fire is going, I can glance over to see all of wax melted. If I see it half solid or more, I know it's time to add wood.

Doing it long enough, it becomes second nature to look over.

I get it. As a teenager, I heated the garage at my parents' house with a wood stove. It was the only heat source out there.My parents didn't heat with wood in those days. Then I got married and bought a house on 5 wooded acres. Installed a wood furnace tied into the existing forced air system. Paid that back very quickly with 1980's oil prices. Then wife complained about having to feed the wood eating monster in the basement while I was at work, so we went back to oil in the house except weekends and my winter time off from work. Then we added an attached garage, and only heat in our big room portion of the addition was a wood stove, because it was impractical to extend ductwork out there. With the attached garage built, the old detached became my workshop and I wanted to be able to heat it fast after I got home from work, so it got a propane wall furnace. When we replaced the wood stove in the big room with a new one after I retired, the old one went out to the detached shop. I'd heat it up with the propane furnace until the wood stove was cranking out heat.I'd also be making trips into the house to feed that stove. The stove in the shop would die down during my leisurely retiree's lunch breaks.

I'm typing this from the warmth of our big room's wood stove which I keep burning 24/7 through the winter. The new shop got a cold-capable heat pump. The old shop is now cold storage. The old stove is sitting outside waiting for me to haul it to the scrap yard.

 

[ipgenie]

Your father should be giving thanks to the utility gods for that KW price. Now if he lived in San Fransisco he would have a right to complain.

"As of January 1, 2024, the average cost of electricity in San Francisco is 45 cents per kilowatt-hour (kWh) for Pacific Gas & Electric (PG&E) customers. However, the cost per kWh can range from 34 to 72 cents per kWh depending on the time of day, season, and rate schedule"

Lots of hydro power here helps with the rates. He's also in a not for profit electrical coop so a pretty good deal. Idaho rates are pretty low everywhere. I'm on the optional time of use rates. My last bill charged 12 cents per KWh peak, 4.7 cents off peak, $28 delivery, with a $32 Columbia river benefit. Pretty cheap compared to many places. Makes it a no brainer to use my mini splits as much as possible in the winter.

 

[pcmeiners]

On top of the furnace, I have a small glass jar candle, unlit. When the fire is going, I can glance over to see all of wax melted. If I see it half solid or more, I know it's time to add wood.

Neat idea, genuine ingenuity

 

[NUTTSGT]

A bit of an update to my previous post.

It's been cold down here in Ohio relative to the normal winter weather. You're in Michigan so you understand our weather.

A had a fire going Saturday till we went out to eat. I worked Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday. All 24 hour shifts so I just got home this morning.

Here was the temp.


This is quite unusual for my garage.

 

[sjvicker]

For the bathroom I'd look at a small 240v amazon heater. Turn it up when you're there and down when your not and let the thermostat do its thing. It's cheap and on low its not going to take much power.

For the rest of the space, get a woodstove. You already have the wood so this seems like the easiest and cheapest solution.

 

[E1271]

A bit of an update to my previous post.

It's been cold down here in Ohio relative to the normal winter weather. You're in Michigan so you understand our weather.

A had a fire going Saturday till we went out to eat. I worked Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday. All 24 hour shifts so I just got home this morning.

Here was the temp.


This is quite unusual for my garage.

That's great! What size is your garage? I'm feeling more confident that the wood furnace is the way to go. I just recently started a build thread. I'm playing catch-up since I started the project in 2021 but follow along, one of the projects I did a year ago or so is refurbish a wood furnace a neighbor gave me. It has 2 ducts and a blower, like the one you described. It'll work, I'm sure. Even if it does get below freezing and I burn strictly on the weekends I'm ok with that.

For the bathroom I'd look at a small 240v amazon heater. Turn it up when you're there and down when your not and let the thermostat do its thing. It's cheap and on low its not going to take much power.

For the rest of the space, get a woodstove. You already have the wood so this seems like the easiest and cheapest solution.

Thanks, this is the way I am leaning as well.

I think I will still plumb a gas line up the exterior wall, before it's finished, into the attic in case there is a time where I want a furnace, but for now electric eat and wood heat is the combo I'm going with. It's time for some insulation and a ceiling!

 

[Airforce_NavyDAD]

My thoughts,

Electric in the bathroom, either baseboard or fan forced. Gas heater in the shop.

Like was mentioned above it would be nice to know your location.

This.

 

[beltfeed]

I'm throwing around new ideas on how I'll heat my barn. The barn specifics are 32x56x14. 8x16x8 bathroom in a corner which will be heated 100% of the winter for frost protection. I have electricity out to the barn but not a gas line, propane. I could run a gas line, the cost would be minimal.

My original plan was to use a wood burner (furnace) to unregularly heat the main part of the barn. Some weekends only, kind of situation. In the bathroom my plan was to install a small electric heater to maintain around 50F all of the time. I have weighed the risks and insurance troubles with the wood fired furnace.

Thought two is to run the gas line and install gas heating appliances. Probably a ceiling mounted modine or reznor type furnace for the main shop and still only plan to heat on occasion. For ease of use I'm sure I'll keep it more comfortable than I would with wood, more often than needed but it'll be convenient as heck! Then I'll find something small and as efficient as possible for the bathroom.

My question is this - what would be more economical and practical. How much would it really cost me to use propane instead of electricity. The barn is very well insulated with a good vapor barrier, R-33 in the walls and R-60 in the ceiling. I don't remember the garage door specifics but it's a well insulated door. I'm not sure it matters a whole lot but the floor is insulated with 1.5" rigid below the bathroom and 16" down around the entire perimeter of the barn.

Is my OCD too strong?

If you have natural gas close that probably is your cheapest option depending on what a therm costs with all the fees and taxes rolled in. I'm .98 cents a therm for NG, around $3.50 for propane and .16 a kilowatt with all the fees and taxes rolled in. Nice thing with natural gas you don't have to worry about the tank running out. I would go to fuel oil before I would go to propane.

 

[ToolsRCool]

Agree. Favorite is high efficiency natural gas furnace, 94%. Works even as on-demand, but much longer warm-up time. Made it freeze-proof.

 

[E1271]

If you have natural gas close that probably is your cheapest option depending on what a therm costs with all the fees and taxes rolled in. I'm .98 cents a therm for NG, around $3.50 for propane and .16 a kilowatt with all the fees and taxes rolled in. Nice thing with natural gas you don't have to worry about the tank running out. I would go to fuel oil before I would go to propane.

Agree. Favorite is high efficiency natural gas furnace, 94%. Works even as on-demand, but much longer warm-up time. Made it freeze-proof.

No natural gas available unfortunately.