Barn wall finishing help!

[BB16]

Hey guys, so I just built a 30x50 metal building. I’m going to insulate it and want to finish the walls. My dilemma is the spacing for the support. From the center of one to the center of the next is 46”. The sides are 12’ tall but 9.5’ to the support you see coming down the sides. What do you guys think. How would you tackle it?

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

That building doesn't look like it was intended to have the interior finished.
What is your desire. Insulation, electrical, heat and/or AC?

 

[cstmg8]

How deep are those "studs" off the wall?

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[JamesW84]

Unless you're going to spray foam it, I think you'll have to frame out walls with 2x4 or 2x6 to use roll insulation. That's why I did mine stick frame.

You could frame it with 2x4 24" on center and make the studs match up with the metal "studs." Then the 2x4 + your metal stud would be close to a 2x6 thickness and you could use the R19 or whatever it is insulation. Do a little more research to make sure you won't have condensation problems with no vapor barrier.

 

[Mattlt]

Forgive my curiosity, but I know next to nothing about steel buildings. What is the roof pitch on this one? Looks about like a 2/12? Hard to tell with the picture sideways.

Also, does the sheet metal on the outside provide enough lateral strength to keep the building from racking end to end?

This just doesn't look like it would support very much snow load, but like I said, I know very little about steel buildings.

 

[BB16]

That building doesn't look like it was intended to have the interior finished.
What is your desire. Insulation, electrical, heat and/or AC?

I’ll be running the electrical Friday. Then spray foam and yes it will be heated. I’ve seen people on here finish them in the past. Some people framed them out. I just am trying to think out all my options.

How deep are those "studs" off the wall?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

I believe it’s 3”x3” steel framing.

Unless you're going to spray foam it, I think you'll have to frame out walls with 2x4 or 2x6 to use roll insulation. That's why I did mine stick frame.

You could frame it with 2x4 24" on center and make the studs match up with the metal "studs." Then the 2x4 + your metal stud would be close to a 2x6 thickness and you could use the R19 or whatever it is insulation. Do a little more research to make sure you won't have condensation problems with no vapor barrier.

Framing it out was what I was trying to avoid if possible. I know it’s a good option tho. I’m going to be spray foaming the whole thing. Just looking at my best way to cover it up.

Forgive my curiosity, but I know next to nothing about steel buildings. What is the roof pitch on this one? Looks about like a 2/12? Hard to tell with the picture sideways.

Also, does the sheet metal on the outside provide enough lateral strength to keep the building from racking end to end?

This just doesn't look like it would support very much snow load, but like I said, I know very little about steel buildings.

It’s a 3/12 pitch. Yes it’s extremely sturdy, exceeded my local (Michigan) snow loads and wind ratings. I’m actually very impressed with the building so far. That steel isn’t going anywhere. Im going to spray foam it as well which will add to the rigidity of the already solid building.

 

[bluegoose972]

You may check with your building manufacturer and see if there would be an issue with screwing 2x4's horizontally to the vertical members. That way you could install on 2 ft centers then apply what every type of sheeting you want to cover up the walls. Always a debate between OSB and sheetrock, but 46" will be too much of a span.

If the building manufacturer has issues with having the 2x4's and sheeting screwed to the vertical members, then you would probably need to build framed walls just inside the structure and then you can pretty much do anything you want at that point.

 

[JamesW84]

If you weren't going to be installing more than 3 in of spray foam (assuming that is the thickness of your stud)then you could put plywood or OSB ripped down to hit in the middle of your studs. I wouldn't hang a lot of weight from it but it would cover your walls. Surely little screw holes in the studs wouldn't hurt the structural capacity too much

 

[BB16]

You may check with your building manufacturer and see if there would be an issue with screwing 2x4's horizontally to the vertical members. That way you could install on 2 ft centers then apply what every type of sheeting you want to cover up the walls. Always a debate between OSB and sheetrock, but 46" will be too much of a span.

If the building manufacturer has issues with having the 2x4's and sheeting screwed to the vertical members, then you would probably need to build framed walls just inside the structure and then you can pretty much do anything you want at that point.

That’s a great idea and what I was considering. I measured the steel framing and it’s 2.5”x2.5”. If I ran 2x4s horizontally across, it would give me 4” of depth and something to attach to.

If you weren't going to be installing more than 3 in of spray foam (assuming that is the thickness of your stud)then you could put plywood or OSB ripped down to hit in the middle of your studs. I wouldn't hang a lot of weight from it but it would cover your walls. Surely little screw holes in the studs wouldn't hurt the structural capacity too much

I’ll be doing 2” of foam.

 

[vrinner]

I just laid down some steel channel on the floor the steel studs at 24" on center for the shop area and 16" on center for my man cave area. The top is screwed into the bottom of the girts. Will put plywood over the shop section and drywall on the other section.
Took up some floor space but I'll be happy with the end results as I've already put a couple of tears in the insulation.