Hi Guys, I'm installing a single barrel stove in a room attached to my shop. What I want to do is fire the stove then use " thru wall fans " to move heat into shop. I also thought about using one thru wall fan attached to duct work to move heat to other end of shop. Shop is 14x35 with 9' ceilings, the room with the stove is 7x15 with 8' ceiling. What do you think? Any better suggestions. Thanks
Barrel stove ideas
- Thread starter the mick
- Start date
koditten
Well-known member
You will need some duct work. You have to find a way to pull the cooler air from the far side and send it to the stove, then ship the warmer air back to the shop. I love those stoves, but thet really are a nightmare to use to move warm air around.
KO
KO
rkevins
Well-known member
I agree with having the heater in the shop, and Iwould add a 2nd barrel you would be suprised how much more heat you will capture from it.
Farmall450
Well-known member
And you might want to check out with your insurance company first, I've heard of people being dropped/having to build a "bunker" around it!
nehog
Well-known member
I'll not get into the safety issues (that's another thread!)
But I will mention that having the stove in one room and trying to move the heat to another room will take a large, high volume fan/ventilation system. Larger than most people realized!
But I will mention that having the stove in one room and trying to move the heat to another room will take a large, high volume fan/ventilation system. Larger than most people realized!
Interesting idea.
I would agree with the two barrel modification.
It does double the amount of heat put out.
And realize that much off the heat felt from a wood stove is radiation and you are not going to get that.
I would double drywall the walls of your room for fireproofing and then put up a sheet of perforated metal, spaced 2 or 3 inches from the wall on all walls.
This will grab some radiation heat before it hit’s the drywall.
Do the same to the ceiling.
Do not insulate the room. You do not want it to over heat.
Get a good CFM fan for the long duct run.
One from an old clothes dryer should work OK.
They are designed to move a lot of heavy, damp air and do well with dry air.
Hook it to a thermostat backwards.
(So it comes on when hot and goes off when the room cools.
If you cannot find on that does that hook it to a relay to accomplish the same thing.)
Hook a small, oscillating fan that you set on the floor to the same thermostat.
Hang another oscillating fan from the ceiling, or put it on a high shelf, so that it cools the ceiling.
You want to keep the air in the room from getting stagnant “hot spots.”
Put the inlet air vent through the wall at least 24 inches above the floor.
Minimize the door to floor gap. Maybe even a cheap weather strip.
You don’t want to **** in any fumes that settle to the floor.
Read up well on wood heating.
It is not as simple as build a fire in a fireplace.
When you build your stove make it air tight at all joints.
You want complete control on how much air is let in.
And put a damper in your exhaust pipe.
You can adjust your draw that way.
And don’t expect to get it right the first season.
It took me three years to get mine balanced to the point it was a twice a day loading.
I would agree with the two barrel modification.
It does double the amount of heat put out.
And realize that much off the heat felt from a wood stove is radiation and you are not going to get that.
I would double drywall the walls of your room for fireproofing and then put up a sheet of perforated metal, spaced 2 or 3 inches from the wall on all walls.
This will grab some radiation heat before it hit’s the drywall.
Do the same to the ceiling.
Do not insulate the room. You do not want it to over heat.
Get a good CFM fan for the long duct run.
One from an old clothes dryer should work OK.
They are designed to move a lot of heavy, damp air and do well with dry air.
Hook it to a thermostat backwards.
(So it comes on when hot and goes off when the room cools.
If you cannot find on that does that hook it to a relay to accomplish the same thing.)
Hook a small, oscillating fan that you set on the floor to the same thermostat.
Hang another oscillating fan from the ceiling, or put it on a high shelf, so that it cools the ceiling.
You want to keep the air in the room from getting stagnant “hot spots.”
Put the inlet air vent through the wall at least 24 inches above the floor.
Minimize the door to floor gap. Maybe even a cheap weather strip.
You don’t want to **** in any fumes that settle to the floor.
Read up well on wood heating.
It is not as simple as build a fire in a fireplace.
When you build your stove make it air tight at all joints.
You want complete control on how much air is let in.
And put a damper in your exhaust pipe.
You can adjust your draw that way.
And don’t expect to get it right the first season.
It took me three years to get mine balanced to the point it was a twice a day loading.
klogan121
Well-known member
klogan121
Well-known member
And I use a fan to circulate heat off barrel-- essential for warming building quickly!