klogan121
Well-known member
Barrel stove, nice pics with the IR camera! just got my stove up and running this past month.
Barrel Stove Kits
- Thread starter imported_banzaitoyota
- Start date
Torque1st
MEMBER EMERITUS
The Rutland furnace cement can be purchased at any good hardware store. The local ACE hardware has it.
For setting and repairing furnaces, heaters, stoves, and boilers
Gas-tight and fire-proof
2700 deg F max
Also a firebrick mortar
For setting and repairing furnaces, heaters, stoves, and boilers
Gas-tight and fire-proof
2700 deg F max
Also a firebrick mortar
VairKing
Well-known member
I put this in the other thread but looks like it should go here:
Check my pic, my drum heater is in the background. Sorry I dont seem to have any great pictures of it. I stood the bottom drum on end and used a 2" hole saw to cut several holes, then inserted exhaust tubing through them and welded everything up. Then I use an old fuel oil furnace's blower to blow air through it. With enough wood in it it would easily heat my non insulated no ceiling shop quite nicely. The one draw back was the foot print it took up. My new shop has in floor heat run off my wood boiler, so I may have the barrel stove for sale soon.
Its been a few years since I ran it, but now that I look at the pic I remember I built a riser base to get it up off the ground to ease my back pain, and then used a box fan above it to help scavenge heat off the upper barrel. These things take tons of wood to get enough heat to overcome lack of insulation. The fuel oil furnace could still be used for normal operation without a fire.
Check my pic, my drum heater is in the background. Sorry I dont seem to have any great pictures of it. I stood the bottom drum on end and used a 2" hole saw to cut several holes, then inserted exhaust tubing through them and welded everything up. Then I use an old fuel oil furnace's blower to blow air through it. With enough wood in it it would easily heat my non insulated no ceiling shop quite nicely. The one draw back was the foot print it took up. My new shop has in floor heat run off my wood boiler, so I may have the barrel stove for sale soon.
Its been a few years since I ran it, but now that I look at the pic I remember I built a riser base to get it up off the ground to ease my back pain, and then used a box fan above it to help scavenge heat off the upper barrel. These things take tons of wood to get enough heat to overcome lack of insulation. The fuel oil furnace could still be used for normal operation without a fire.
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greythorn3
New member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2009
- Messages
- 4
great thread just wiating on my kit to come in at ace! then i will be putting it in my dirt floor pole barn, with no insulation, gonna be nice! got the volgang kit or what ever its called. want to raise it off the ground to keep the fumes from igniting, and probably jus tgo straight thru the roof with the pipe maybe do the out the side wall and up with all single wall tho. who knows
dave67fd
Well-known member
Charles,
I have used the Permatex RED hi-temp RTV. The Ultra copper is good to 700 deg. intermittant and about 500+ sustained. Available at most any auto parts store.
tncatadjuster
Well-known member
Just built a second one for a friend. Here is mine, I welded the top section of a second drum, so I can place pallets in without cross cutting.
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djd99
Well-known member
Installed one of these this weekend as well, These things heat like a banshee.... After 2 hours my 30x40 is 76 degrees........
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klogan121
Well-known member
Installed one of these this weekend as well, These things heat like a banshee.... After 2 hours my 30x40 is 76 degrees........
Nice setup! Did you make the air inlet tube on bottom yourself?
djd99
Well-known member
Thanks, yup I took a 2" ****** and welded a nut to the end and made a cover to fit the hole.
I want to burn drip waste oil into my simple barrel burner. Has anyone just rigged up a drum above the barrel and dripped oil in through drilled out hole in top of barrel? I plan to drill hole in top of barrel and pushing a 12" steel tube in to hole to fit snugly with 6" protruding in to the barrel and 6" being left sticking out of top of barrel. I would then lead a thinner copper tube in to the steel tube with a gravity oil feed controlled by a tap to drip feed into the barrel literally dropping oil onto the wood fire below. Anyone add few tips to improve on this for me. I want to keep it simple as possible.
6768rogues
Banned
A guy I used to know built a barrel stove using a 275 gallon fuel oil tank. He burned tires in it and it would glow red. He had a huge uninsulated shop and it was warm enough to work in a t-shirt. Probably not a good idea today with environmentalists around every corner.
abetageek
New member
For some strange reason, Unobtanium is very hard to find. but we mine it here in OZ. and correct about the carbon fiber flue.
It does not matter how hot the stove gets as long as flammable objects are far enough away.
regarding "thin" the thinner it is the better it transfers heat.
Yes do not leave unattended.
And you CAN control the burn rate with the damper and
dont put so much fuel in it, D U H
I heated my house with an old Round Oak Stove from Grand Rapids MI
as I lived in MI for 65 years'
It was cast but the vertical barrel was steel,
I had a stainless plate on the wall behind it,
remember Farenheit 451
this post was hilarious
Abetageek@gmail
It does not matter how hot the stove gets as long as flammable objects are far enough away.
regarding "thin" the thinner it is the better it transfers heat.
Yes do not leave unattended.
And you CAN control the burn rate with the damper and
dont put so much fuel in it, D U H
I heated my house with an old Round Oak Stove from Grand Rapids MI
as I lived in MI for 65 years'
It was cast but the vertical barrel was steel,
I had a stainless plate on the wall behind it,
remember Farenheit 451
this post was hilarious
Abetageek@gmail
abetageek
New member
Dont bother to paint it
ecurb_1160
New member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2008
- Messages
- 1
Slightly off topic here, but... Years ago-maybe 40- we went over to my uncles house to see his new wood stove he had just finished building. It was pretty big, made out of some type of old boiler- really heavy duty- and about 15 feet from his chimney. He had gotten that thing fired up about a half hour before we arrived and it was really cooking- I mean it was HOT!!!!! It was in the early winter, but his basement had to be 90 degs. The scary part about that visit was when we got there, the whole stove AND 15 feet of stove pipe were glowing cherry red! Like I said it was HOT!!!! Somehow the wood that was in it burned out before the house burned down, and when the stove cooled off he figured out a way to put a damper on it so it wouldn't burn unregulated...
greythorn3
New member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2009
- Messages
- 4
i know a guy with one in his house. aint burned down yet. be he smokes too and we all know thats dangrous also.
trbomax
Well-known member
I had one setup like that .The problem I had was the drip tube would carbon up and end up blocked off after a couple days. To vercome that I ran a 1/2" pipe in the side of the lower barrelclose to the top at a45 deg angle. Where it came out of the barrel I used a "T" with a plug in the end.I ran the oil into the 90 deg side of the "T". When it stopped dripping I could pull the plug and run a 3/8" drill thru the drip pipe to clear it. Put your regulateing valve on the oil tank end and run 1/2" copper from the resivor and a 1/2" gate valve for regulation.The reason for this is that no matter how careful you are there willbe **** in your oil and a smaller valve and line will catch it and plug up. Use a gate valve,a ball valve will not provide the accuracy you will need to adjust this,plus the knife action will make it un affected by debri.Its really easy to over fire with a set up like this,I would put a magnectic thermometer on the top of the lower barrel where the tube goes in.You dont want to exceed 700 deg ,more than that will comprimise the structural integrety of the lower barrel.I would mix the waste oil at 10/1 with diesel to allow it to flow better and its easier to strain when you dump it into the storage tank. Keep your storage tak at least 10' away from the stove and do not leave it unattended,you can get a runaway very easily and the storage tank will soak up heat from the stove if its too close,makeing it require constant adjustment to prevent an overfire.
I used the oil drip for a couple years and it will work,just stay in the habit of monitering it closely. It will create some nasty smelling black smoke so if there are any greenie natzies near by you will end up being an ******* for doing it.
edit) sorry about the sp and missing spaces,my carple tunnel is killing me today!
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Barrel Stove
Member
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2010
- Messages
- 11
I'm designing a barrel stove, and will be using a 30-Gallon Stainless Steel barrel. The secondary combustion air supply tubes will also be SS. The black iron pipe I used for the first stove burned out in a few areas. I will also design a larger door with larger stove glass, and a more accurate way to regulate primary and secondary air. I'm toying with some sort of rotisserie and grill grate feature.
I do have a question ...... The bottom of the first stove is lined with fire brick as seen in the following jpegs:
There are 5 rows of fire brick. Is it better to have 3 rows? Will the flames/heat transfer easier/faster if the top left/right row is removed? Any rule of thumb for how high the bricks should go?
I will use an insulated SS sheet on the top third to provide a ceiling for the hot secondary combustion air to burn the remaining combustibles.
Thanks for any replies.
Ernst
I do have a question ...... The bottom of the first stove is lined with fire brick as seen in the following jpegs:
There are 5 rows of fire brick. Is it better to have 3 rows? Will the flames/heat transfer easier/faster if the top left/right row is removed? Any rule of thumb for how high the bricks should go?
I will use an insulated SS sheet on the top third to provide a ceiling for the hot secondary combustion air to burn the remaining combustibles.
Thanks for any replies.
Ernst
Clik
Well-known member
I've built many barrel stoves over the years. I guess being hobbyists we tend to look for ways to turn something simple into a project.
There's no need to buy a kit. Unless you just like the look. You don't need a cast iron door. Think about the weakest link. You can just use the piece you cut out as a door.
If you want a cast iron door for the look, you can buy them cheaply at a masonry supply house where they are sold as chimney cleanouts.
I used a thin type manhole cover on one just for the novelty.
You don't need a flu ring. Just cut a hole and shove the flue pipe in the top. use a couple of scraps of tin to make an *L* shape like a small shelf bracket and screw to the side of the flu and into the barrel.
Don't worry about sealing and caulking because fire doesn't comeout of voids, air draws in. That's why you can just use the piece you cut out as a door.
Don't bother complicating things with a second barrel, they just complicate getting a draft started.
Burn through: I never had one burn through even using the thin barrels and making them glow red. They corrode through due to the corrosiveness of the ash and smoke residue when not in use. The moisture in the air combines with the ash and residue and is very corrosive. I just keep them simple and change them out every year or two.
No need to bolt door flue etc. Sheet metal screws work fine.
No need to line with brick. Just leave some ash in the bottom.
Make sure you put a dampner in the flue close to the stove to control heat, draft, and the rare chimney fire. Fire in the flu pipe is usually from creasote build up. Choking fires down creates creasote and so does cold air blowing accross uninsultaed pipe.
I burned trash, waste oil, plastic bottles and whatever and never had a problem.
Common sense prevails. These were shop heaters NOT basement heaters!
There's no need to buy a kit. Unless you just like the look. You don't need a cast iron door. Think about the weakest link. You can just use the piece you cut out as a door.
If you want a cast iron door for the look, you can buy them cheaply at a masonry supply house where they are sold as chimney cleanouts.
I used a thin type manhole cover on one just for the novelty.
You don't need a flu ring. Just cut a hole and shove the flue pipe in the top. use a couple of scraps of tin to make an *L* shape like a small shelf bracket and screw to the side of the flu and into the barrel.
Don't worry about sealing and caulking because fire doesn't comeout of voids, air draws in. That's why you can just use the piece you cut out as a door.
Don't bother complicating things with a second barrel, they just complicate getting a draft started.
Burn through: I never had one burn through even using the thin barrels and making them glow red. They corrode through due to the corrosiveness of the ash and smoke residue when not in use. The moisture in the air combines with the ash and residue and is very corrosive. I just keep them simple and change them out every year or two.
No need to bolt door flue etc. Sheet metal screws work fine.
No need to line with brick. Just leave some ash in the bottom.
Make sure you put a dampner in the flue close to the stove to control heat, draft, and the rare chimney fire. Fire in the flu pipe is usually from creasote build up. Choking fires down creates creasote and so does cold air blowing accross uninsultaed pipe.
I burned trash, waste oil, plastic bottles and whatever and never had a problem.
Common sense prevails. These were shop heaters NOT basement heaters!
I was given a barrel stove kit last year to replace my existing wood burning stove which was too small for my garage. I finally had the time to put it together but I've yet to install it because I want to replace the existing stove pipe. I was looking to order new DuraBlack 6" pipe to connect to my existing chimney pipe. My problem is that I don't know which adapter to use to connect to the chimney pipe. I have been looking on northlineexpress.com and they said that they need to know the manufacturer of the chimney pipe in order to suggest the proper adapter. I bought the stove and chimney pipe second hand so I don't know the manufacturer of the chimney pipe and its not written anywhere on the pipe. I sent them several pictures of the existing chimney pipe and adapter but it didn't seem to help. Does anyone know the brand or manufacturer of the chimney pipe from the pictures? Any help would be greatly appreciated since its getting really cold and I don't have any source of heat in my garage.
Thank you
Dave
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0JiRNEZViekZEtkNUp4RVNWTHM/edit?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0JiRNEZViekaU9sQnJkSXBRbGM/edit?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0JiRNEZViekblZQaGhkUElaaGM/edit?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0JiRNEZViekcU1KRXN1eWRDM00/edit?usp=sharing
I'm not sure if the pics came up since I'm using google drive so I posted the urls to the pics and put them on photobucket.
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s1018.photobucket.com/user/daddona124/embed/slideshow/Stove%20Pipe"></iframe>
Thank you
Dave
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0JiRNEZViekZEtkNUp4RVNWTHM/edit?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0JiRNEZViekaU9sQnJkSXBRbGM/edit?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0JiRNEZViekblZQaGhkUElaaGM/edit?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0JiRNEZViekcU1KRXN1eWRDM00/edit?usp=sharing
I'm not sure if the pics came up since I'm using google drive so I posted the urls to the pics and put them on photobucket.
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s1018.photobucket.com/user/daddona124/embed/slideshow/Stove%20Pipe"></iframe>
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klogan121
Well-known member
http://www.menards.com/main/heating...vent-6-x-36-chimney-pipe/p-1323305-c-6894.htm
Check the above link.... This pipe looks to be a supervent pipe. I have this on my wood stove in the pole barn.
Menards has different lengths also.
Check the above link.... This pipe looks to be a supervent pipe. I have this on my wood stove in the pole barn.
Menards has different lengths also.
Shop Specialties
Well-known member
It is hard to tell with those pics but I would try a Selkirk 6T-DSAC. I have made it work on other brands of pipe.
right when i was about to throw the stove away i found this great site, i hope you can help. i am trying to cut my power bill in half for the winter, summer time it runs about 80 dollars a month but in the winter it climbs to around 300 dollars. i have a 55 gallon drum that i made into a stove. i used the kit from the hardware store. i followed the instructions and put the stove together. i built a fire in the stove why it was outside and it burned about 1/3 of the paint off.(the drum was a new greese drum, it was black) i then moved the fire to the front and burned the rest of the paint off. i moved the stove into the house, placed 4 inch thick concrete blocks behind and under the stove. i put 50 pounds of sand in the stove and lit it. it burns good, plenty of heat, but the stove keeps turning white and then the white substance starts falling off. why? i am thinking of scrubbing with sos pads and then painting with fire proof or high temperature paint, will this fix my problem? thanks for any help
Clik
Well-known member
It's paint. I scuffed mine as they powdered up, but I like the bare metal look and didn't paint them.