Base/footer for ground level patio

[3rdgendslmech]

I'm about to start working on a ground level patio. 14x16 detached. I called the county and no permit is needed to do what I want. It's going to **** up against the original deck. I'm going to redo the steps so that you'll only come down 1-2 steps onto the patio.
The 16' ends are going to have the end beams, but what I need advice for is if I should pour a 8" footer and use a galvanized post anchor or just use the precast solid blocks or the pyramid post blocks?

 

[lukedwag]

Are you talking about pouring a patio slab on grade ? I'm confused.

 

[The Cobbler]

yup, need more details.

 

[3rdgendslmech]

I'm sorry, i'm sorry its going to built out of 2x lumber. 2x8 for the joists and end beams and 2x6 for the decking.

 

[ItsNemo]

I'm sorry, i'm sorry its going to built out of 2x lumber. 2x8 for the joists and end beams and 2x6 for the decking.

So that's not a patio, that's a deck.

Find a span table and a load table for pier footings and go to town.

 

[3onthetree]

Yes on pier footings and embedded anchors, I believe MD has a frost depth, use a "sonotube." Even without permits, you should still build a safe structure. It might be good for you to start with the American Wood Council guide to deck building:
https://www.awc.org/pdf/codes-standards/publications/dca/AWC-DCA62015-DeckGuide-1804.pdf

 

[ard]

I did one that wasnt 'at grade' but was about 10" up.

poured piers w sonotubes and 4x4 post base anchors. But laid 4x8 pressure treated beams' at 24" on center. (Got a crazy deal on them- rated for ground contact.) Then laid 2x6 decking, all heart redwood.

Problem with doing decks like this is that water WILL destroy it quickly. Proper lumber selection is important.

Thats what I think of when I read 'ground level'...but what do YOU mean?

Specifically how high above grade will the deck surface be?

 

[Git]

I am surprised a permit is not required

In any case - I don't think it matters if it is ground level or 10' up, it still needs to be properly built

I did some quick googling for Maryland and found a couple of pdf files - I think I would try to follow them at least

http://www.co.saint-marys.md.us/docs/CAG-4 Deck.pdf

https://www.montgomerycountymd.gov/DPS/Resources/Files/RCI/MCResidentialDeckDetails.pdf

 

[astroracer]

When I built the deck on my house in '89 I had one level that was at ground level. The rest of the deck is built on 4x4 posts but this one just sits on the ground. I couldn't install it "permanently" because of underground utilities coming into the house in that area. I did no prep other then to level the area with a few scrapes from a shovel. It's been sitting there for 30 years and hasn't moved. I don't think you need to jump thru a bunch of hoops to build your deck on the ground. Just get the site level and build away...
Mark

 

[3rdgendslmech]

When I hear ground level I take that to mean 6" or less of clearance. I've looked into the deck requirements for my county and had planned on building it to what they require. A few mentioned just setting it on the pier blocks. I'm all for it being anchored to the ground!
My plans are 4x4 posts anchored in place with 12" footers (that's what the county says for detached decks)
2x8 beams and joists with hangers. Also 2x6 for decking.
I'm going to grade it so water runs away from the house and before I set the joists I'm going to lay down some 6 MIL black plastic so water will shed away vs staying in the ground

 

[jnyost]

If you end up going with pyramid blocks and not putting the foundation below the frost line, you may end up with heaving over time. You may get lucky and not experience much but I’d hate to put that much time and effort into something just to have it move a few years down the road.

Like others have stated, I’d vote for concrete tubes and brackets.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Will it be attached to the house, or just freestanding and butted up against the house? If it's freestanding it will be able to deal with some movement from frost heaving, if it's attached then you need to have frost footers.

 

[3rdgendslmech]

Not attached to the house at all just butted up against it. The stairs from the old deck are going to be redone and you'll step on to it. Im def going the footer/anchor way On the low end the posts are going to have to be about 14 inches to be level with the ones up by the house.

I'll try to snap some pictures tonight when I get home.

 

[Falcon67]

Hmmm - with all the talk of frost depth and such, if it is really going to ride on the ground I'd consider a 3~6" base of rock packed to a bit above grade and just go on top of that.

 

[3rdgendslmech]

@ falcon I thought about doing that also, just dig a hole and fill it with about 8" of concrete set the post and fill the remaining hole with gravel.
I saw somewhere, not sure of what area this is in but apparently it's against code to have a post sit directly on a concrete footer. That's where the galvanized set in place anchors come into play.