To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Baseboards - flush, or off the floor a little?

sign216

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 24, 2017
Messages
60
Location
Taunton, Massachusetts
Building a workshop. The drywall is 1/2" off the floor, but now it's time to put in the baseboards and all the window/door trim.

Should the baseboards go in flush to the floor, or off a little (1/8' or 1/4" idk?).

Any other tips?

Joe
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
S

sign216

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 24, 2017
Messages
60
Location
Taunton, Massachusetts
I don't know, I've never done window and door moldings, so I don't to screw it up too much.

I was going to go slightly less than the house size trim, only because the workshop has lower ceiling, it's smaller, etc. Thinking 3" or 3.5" for window trim, and 4 or 5" for baseboards. Sound reasonable?

Joe
 

quattro_sinko

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2014
Messages
417
Location
Upstate NY
Provided your slab has a moisture barrier and doesn't sweat too much, I would still go tight to the floor. If your slab does allow a lot of moisture through, you may want to be sure that the bottom of your trim is sealed with primer/paint.

As far as tips:
-Buy a Starrett angle finder, it's worth the $20.
-Use a miter saw with a good blade
-Titebond is (IMO) the best yellow glue
-Incorporate reveals into all of your casework. They allow just a little bit of "fudge" and make way more sense (and a cleaner look) over trying to trim things with flush joints.
 

ard

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 16, 2015
Messages
4,391
Location
Sierra Foothills... California
I did glue on flexible cove baseboard....

This:
shopping



Nice and clean- AND doesn't interfere (appreciably) with stuff that is flush on the wall.

Glue on, fast. Did tear my meniscus crawling under a table I was too lazy to move, but that's another story...
 

BillK

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 24, 2006
Messages
9,448
Location
Beautiful Southern Maryland
I did glue on flexible cove baseboard....

This:
shopping



Nice and clean- AND doesn't interfere (appreciably) with stuff that is flush on the wall.

Glue on, fast. Did tear my meniscus crawling under a table I was too lazy to move, but that's another story...

This is the way to go. Plus it makes it very easy to clean because noting goes under it.
 

Jeepster04

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2013
Messages
3,114
I personally wouldnt put wood right on concrete... But thats just me...

Go with the above flexible...
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Vintage Veloce

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
1,076
Location
San Diego
I used some real lumber as baseboards (1x6) and found it didn't seal tight to all the concrete ripples. But then, I also recommend caulking the baseboard to the floor. You don't need spills or anything else going under the baseboards.
 

quattro_sinko

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 10, 2014
Messages
417
Location
Upstate NY
^^^ you would need to scribe it to the floor if you wanted a tight fit in most cases

I debated going into a long, drawn out description of scribing, dryfitting, then priming and painting the bottom, leaving the base 1/32"-1/16" off finished floor (due to moisture/wicking) and then caulking the gap, etc. etc...

...but figured "seal the bottom with primer/paint, and nail it" :)

BTW OP: If you are painting all the trim, it's way easier to apply primer and a first coat of paint before you cut and install, either up on saw horses, or on the floor (using protection, of course, because accidents happen). That way, after you cut and install (putty nail holes and caulk, if necessary) your second coat of paint is more of a "touch up" coat, and you can relax a little when you apply it.
 
OP
S

sign216

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 24, 2017
Messages
60
Location
Taunton, Massachusetts
I'm in the northeast , and flexible cove base board isn't common at all. Do the advantages outweigh simple wood and nail?

And Sinko, yes, I'm thinking of just staining it, after cutting and checking fit, then putting it up. The stain will match exterior siding.

Joe
 

MushCreek

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 14, 2015
Messages
10,021
Location
Upstate South Carolina
On concrete, I use either PVC trim or vinyl cove base. Here in the south, it's pretty common to get condensation under certain weather conditions.
 
OP
S

sign216

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 24, 2017
Messages
60
Location
Taunton, Massachusetts
What are the wood + concrete issues?

Re vinyl cove base, I don't get condensation (anymore), because I put in a dehumidifier. I store antique motorcycles there, and the drier air helps w the rust.

Joe
 

GRivera

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2017
Messages
529
Location
20 mins south of Baltimore
Concrete is susceptible to moisture/easily penetrated by moisture, especially when installed over bare soil. The cool temperature of concrete can also cause moisture to condense in humid conditions.
 

redidbull

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
322
Location
SW Connecticut
If you are going to do any floating floor you will need to leave in up to slide the floor under. Floating floor needs 1/4" gap all around to move. Jim
 
OP
S

sign216

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 24, 2017
Messages
60
Location
Taunton, Massachusetts
GRiv,
I was getting condensation, quite a bit. I put in a dehumidifier, and it's solved. This will help protect some vintage cycles I keep in there.

Redidbull,
No floor on top of the concrete. It's cycle shop, and the concrete will do. Often there's spilled oil, fuel, etc.


Joe
 

yeldogt

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2012
Messages
18,184
Typically for finishing one would elevate the baseboard ..this allows for easy leveling and maximum exposer with a quarter round or other trim to fill the gap.

If you are going to sit it on the concrete -- finishing beforehand is what I typically do for untreated wood .... say a set of streps.

In reality -- it would have to get wet a lot for anything to occur in an average lifetime..

Caulk as the potential to hold in moisture ..... people love caulk -- and it's often the cause of problems ...not the solution
 

jkuro

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2009
Messages
556
Install your baseboard 1/4" above the floor. Then use Shoe molding to fill the void. Shoe will contour to the unevenness of the concrete better. If it gets wet its a cheap fix. If you plan on putting a floor in later, remove Shoe, lay floor, replace Shoe.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom