Baseboards for the shop??

[Ran58]

Debating about whether or not I need some type of baseboard for my shop. Walls are LP Smartside siding. Bottom of siding is about 3/4 inch above concrete floor. Of course you can see the treated plate below the siding. Thought about ripping some 1 by 4 pine to dress it up. Did you guys put any type baseboard in you shop?

thanks

 

[MovingAlong]

If you're welding in the shop, baseboards might be a good idea. Dust and debris could get tucked up under there, easy to trap a piece of hot slag or BB's...

 

[sjvicker]

I saw a youtube where they used the knockoff trex decking. It's waterproof, durable, doesn't need to be painted and actually looks pretty good.

 

[Augus7us]

In my shop i had rooms i drywalled and sidnt want traditional base. I went with vinyl cove and really like how it turned out.

 

[gizardlizard]

I did 1x4 in my garage but held it up off the floor a bit in case water made it over that far.

 

[DGersic]

I bought a roll of black vinyl, like the stuff you see in every commercial building. Glued in place. Finishes the edge, and keeps **** from collecting under the gap.

 

[nadogail]

Are you building a shop or a showplace?

 

[jives]

I used 2 x 4 PT lumber for the "baseboard". The siding, which are 5/4" solid core doors line up next to one another, rests on the 2x4 PT. There is scrap 2 x 4 as backing to screw the doors to. this not only kept the doors off the concrete and soaking up moisture, but raised the doors up a bit to enable affixing to the 8' high girt. The doors were 92" tall, not the 96" needed to fully span from bottom girt to top girt.

 

[u2slow]

Nope... But i have a 12" concrete stem wall.

I think I would be more inclined to have something rubber/vinyl-like caulked down with polyurethane to act like a dam against spills.

 

[Zeke]

Are you building a shop or a showplace?

Maybe just a cleaner looking shop.

(those damn spills)

 

[Ran58]

Are you building a shop or a showplace?

Both

 

[finn]

A traditional baseboard that fits over the bottom of the wall sheeting just becomes another ledge to collect dirt.

 

[e015475]

I had 1x4" baseboards in my shop, I sealed it, painted it and caulked it to the floor and wall. It was ok but the ledge it formed collected a lot of dust and debris. Pretty easy to freshen up with a little bit of paint. All my shop equipment is on casters and I tended to bang into it.

I've used the vinyl commercial baseboard too. It would have been good except I chose a lighter color that didn't look that great after I'd run the mop up against it a few times. If I'd followed DGersic's advice and bought black it would have been fine.

For the last iteration of my shop, I bought some epoxy putty and put about 1" fillet between the floor and the wall then went about four inches up the wall with the epoxy floor paint when I did the floor

 

[Steve W.]

Nope... But i have a 12" concrete stem wall.

Same here, but my stem wall is only 8".

.

 

[RichieP_MechE]

Another vote for cove base. Easy to install and looks good.

 

[PoorUB]

I used 1x4, ran it through the table saw and cut a 45 degree angle on the top. I also caulked it to the floor and of course painted it.

 

[Jeff C]

I did the unthinkable and put stuff in my garage before I was completely done with construction. This means I have baseboard in about half of my garage and none in the rest because I’m too busy (lazy) to move things away from the wall to finish the rest.

My vote is yes to any type of baseboard you like. For a few dollars it puts the finishing touch on all that hard work you put into the rest of the building.

 

[nadogail]

My workshop does have base molding in the toilet room. There is no molding in the work roo.m.
The storage cabinets and sink are mounted on a plinth.

 

[ipgenie]

I'm using the composite decking on mine. I'll seal it to the floor so it's water tight about 6" up and then I'll rest the liner panel on top of the "baseboard". Both stick out about 1 inch from the wall so things can still sit flush to the wall.

 

[bb29510]

when i first read this it was " what the hell, oh how stupid........." but then thinking, a 1x4 would make sweeping easlier

 

[rebelranger]

I used 1x4 white PVC planks from big blue box store. I like the durability of the pvc over drywall, it allowed me to keep drywall 3/4in off floor and looks great.

I have used the rolls of baseboard and just not enough durability to protect drywall. If OSB/Plywood wall I may change my mind.

 

[GrayFlattop]

I used 1 x 4 pine. Before I nailed them up,I sprayed the knots with kilz, then 2 coats of exterior alkyd on all surfaces. I touched up the cut ends before nailing them up with a finish nailer. That way I only had to work on my knees only once.

I never bothered with filling the tiny nail holes. The baseboard has done a great job of protecting the drywall.

 

[flippin]

Much like a few others have already posted, composite boards finish the transition between the floor and walls in a garage. I used 9" deck fascia boards which are only 1/2" thick. Silicone the bottom which seals the wall from both water and creepy crawlies.

 

[rsanter]

I bought a roll of black vinyl, like the stuff you see in every commercial building. Glued in place. Finishes the edge, and keeps **** from collecting under the gap.

This

 

[phred]

I used 2x10’s. Most of my large tools, drill press, hydraulic press etc are mobile. The 2x10’s are sacrificial and allow the mobile stands to be pushed up against the wall with out damage to the wall itself.

 

[GrayFlattop]

I used 1x4 white PVC planks from big blue box store. I like the durability of the pvc over drywall, it allowed me to keep drywall 3/4in off floor and looks great.

I have used the rolls of baseboard and just not enough durability to protect drywall. If OSB/Plywood wall I may change my mind.

This is what I would do if building my garage today. PVC trim was not as available in 1990 as it is today.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

I have styrofoam insulation between my slab and stem wall and up the stemwall. I made baseboards. In the "clean" room with drywall I used FRP panel capped with 1x4. In the shop area I used 12" aluminum flashing capped with 2x4s (due to the depth required) .

 

[pancholasvegas]

Only photo I have right now, but I bought a 5x5 sheet of diamond plate and had it sheared into strips, I cut the drywall on the walls short of the concrete and then ran the diamond plate to the floor and screwed it into the studs.

 

[drmarkr]

I bought a roll of black vinyl, like the stuff you see in every commercial building. Glued in place. Finishes the edge, and keeps **** from collecting under the gap.

This.....

 

[CraigStu]

Another option would be the 3/8 thick 4x8 sheet of white pvc ripped into 1x3s or whatever width you want. Could even do the rip at a 45deg angle to reduce **** collecting on the ledge.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Royal-Mouldings-Limited-Actual-0-375-in-x-48-in-x-8-ft-Common-Board-PVC-Board/1001854024

or the thin fiberglass plastic sheet.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sequentia-48-in-x-96-in-Embossed-White-Fiberglass-Reinforced-Plastic-FRP-Wall-Panel/1000174771

 

[Ran58]

Another option would be the 3/8 thick 4x8 sheet of white pvc ripped into 1x3s or whatever width you want. Could even do the rip at a 45deg angle to reduce **** collecting on the ledge.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Royal-Mouldings-Limited-Actual-0-375-in-x-48-in-x-8-ft-Common-Board-PVC-Board/1001854024

or the thin fiberglass plastic sheet.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sequentia-48-in-x-96-in-Embossed-White-Fiberglass-Reinforced-Plastic-FRP-Wall-Panel/1000174771

Do you know if this stuff is durable. If you happen to hit it with something does it easily ding? Also, could you nail it with say 15 gauge nails to hold it to the wall or would it need something with a larger head?

 

[CraigStu]

The 3/8 pvc stuff is pretty substantial, No problem hitting it w/ a vac or kicking it. Normal flat head construction screws will be fine. They will bury just like they would in a pine board. I have never tried nailing it but I am not sure you could countersink the nails very well. The fiberglass is kind of flimsy so an inch below the drywall might need some care. OTOH on the drywall, the stuff is pretty hard surface, so it would be hard to dent it. I think I'd glue it to the drywall.

 

[428PI]

I ran my carsiding to the concrete. No finish either. If it stains or gets rotten will replace with another carsiding over it. Done deal

 

[Sumboodie]

I used 1x4, ran it through the table saw and cut a 45 degree angle on the top. I also caulked it to the floor and of course painted it.

I'm thinking of doing that with cedar.

 

[545_days]

I did nothing and I regret it. There is always dirt and cobwebs in the gap between the drywall and the floor. If I drop a small piece of hardware it inevitably rolls into that gap and I have to get down on hand and knees to fish it out.

Put down some sort of baseboard is my advice.