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Basement Epoxy?

bdk1976

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Feb 19, 2007
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285
I have a basement epoxy kit (unopened) that I picked up for next to nothing at a garage sale. I just completed a 12x16 shed/pumphouse and was thinking about using it on the floor. The floor has a broom finish - I'd call it 'medium' broom texture. Concrete was completed a year ago and passed the 'moisture test' (plastic taped down for 24 hours - no moisture underneath).

Anyone use a basement kit in a similar situation? Any coverage issues (says 250ft2 (I think) on the package, but I'm concerned it may need to be put on thicker due to the broom finish? Or maybe the broom finish makes it a no-go?

I'm looking to do this for little/no additional cost using what I have. Not interested in grinding the floor and putting some expensive coating down.

Also, I have a bottle of muratic acid that could be used to etch with but not sure if that is necessary/advisable.
 
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Amanda

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Jul 22, 2013
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Troy, MI
I would recommend grinding it down, for two reasons. The first is that the low spots in the concrete surface are going to fill with epoxy and it may take more epoxy to cover the floor. The second is that grinding roughens up the floor and gives the epoxy something to bond with. Without this step, your finish may not last long (or possibly at all).

You can use muratic acid, but grinding is by far the best surface preparation method.

Of course, you could just throw it on the floor and see what happens. My guess is the worst case would be the floor peeling or flaking up.

You also might want to check to see if their is an expiration date on the epoxy kit. Many of them only have a shelf life of one year. If one isn't listed, I would call the manufacturer just to be sure.
 

LegacyIndustrial

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Jun 7, 2010
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deerfield, IL
Try renting a diamabrush grinder from the Home Depot.
Safer than acid, easier than conventional grinder.

It's a pain but it is a requirement.
 

Armorpoxy

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We have sold thousands of basements where we have them prep by mopping with a water /TSP solution and then with clean water. Acid not recommended for indoor use on an occupied house. Never a failure with the TSP method indoors.
 
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bdk1976

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Feb 19, 2007
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Thanks for the comments so far. I'd be using basement epoxy in a shed - not in a basement.

I have <$10 invested in the basement epoxy and muratic acid I have on hand and am just wondering if I might have a decent chance at an acceptable outcome using only what I already have. Not really interested in renting a grinder or investing any more $ (or a whole lot of time) into this.
 

dcs Inc

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Dec 13, 2010
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Indianapolis, Indiana
We have sold thousands of basements where we have them prep by mopping with a water /TSP solution and then with clean water. Acid not recommended for indoor use on an occupied house. Never a failure with the TSP method indoors.

Incorrect. That's all I'll say.
 
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dcs Inc

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Dec 13, 2010
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803
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Indianapolis, Indiana
You will not get a good bond with just a cleaner. If it were that easy then the professionals would be applying it that way. TSP is just a low suds cleaner.

Here are some quick reasons. All concrete slabs have moisture migrating through them. Epoxies have a limit on just how much moisture vapor they can hold back. Go beyond that limit and you will have a failure. Epoxies need an abrasive open pore surface to "cling" to. A smooth surface will allow the epoxy to peal off easily or lift easily when moisture hits it from underneath it. It is important to apply on a clean surface but it is more important to have an open pore surface so the epoxy will migrate deep into it. Add a good scratch pattern and your epoxy will never lift, as long as the moisture levels stay at bay.

pH levels are very important also. As moisture travels through concrete it does so in a vapor form. On it's journey to the surface it picks up chemicals that can change the surface pH. Epoxies have a limit of alkalinity it can handle. Keep that in mind.
 
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