Basement floor help

[delgjm49]

Hello,

I was building up to work on my garage floor over the next few weeks but switched gears and putting that off, instead doing the basement floors and saving the garage for later on. I decided on HD6525MMA for the floor and would like to see if my plan is sound. The house was built in 1958, there is carpet covering most of it (not yet removed but there is no glue), there is a passive drain, and utility room that is not carpeted (where the pics are from) that has some modest stains likely from household products. Water seems to soak into the floor pretty well, as I expected.

My questions, and thank you for any help in advance!

1. Plan: Clean, Fix Cracks, Etch, Stain (Legacy Delta Dye, 2 coats), Coat 1, Coat 2, Wax (Legacy Cherry Wax). Is this sound?

2. I didn't go with any non-skid additive. I think I blanked because with the wax on top I wasn't thinking of putting anything in the sealer's second coat. If I wanted to grab any anti-skid, with the wax on top, would it still go in the second coat of the 6525, or instead into the wax itself, or does the wax inherently offer some non-skid properties?

3. Cleaning the concrete: I'm working in the basement and as I scrub up the floor I will be using a Shop-Vac to remove most of the "run-off" so to speak. Wanted a fairly strong product keeping in mind less ventilation and vacuum removal. There are multiple Simple Green products, Zep, the Costco Product; what are some solid degreaser/cleaner recommendations?

4. Cracks: I'm using Extreme Set from Legacy, and directions seem straight forward. After patching cracks, do I prep these spots like the rest of the floor (acid etching)?

5. Etch: Is it okay to vacuum with a Shop-Vac for cleanup with etching, in terms of damage to the plastic components? I'm using a 16 gallon Rigid Shop-Vac with the water specific foam filter.

6. Drain: Like this post [link], I have a drain I wanted to "clean up" and patch around before sealing. Because of how significant the breakdown is I want to ensure I get it right. Other than removing loose debris first, would I just follow the recommended process by Zippercat or proceed differently?

7. Fully dry in between coat 1, coat 2, and waxing, correct?

8. Is it okay to proceed with coating around the furnace? Any issue with the tight space between the furnace and the drywall?

Let me know if I can clarify anything.
Thank you for being an awesome DIY resource!!!

Joe

 

[jay8s]

I'll be following this closely. I have a similar situation going on in my basement. I fear that I am going to have to be more aggressive than I was on my sunroom project.

 

[delgjm49]

Following up- started the project and have a few questions:

Can the Extreme Set 100 accept any stain? I assume no, but as I'm doing a clear sealer (6525) with the Delta Dye stain, I'm curious how some of the holes I patched might look. I had dozens of concrete nails along the edge of the basement and the majority of them took up a quarter size hole of concrete when removed. The Extreme set is noticeably lighter than the rest of the floor, and my stain is slightly darker than the concrete itself.

Also- can hairline cracks be left alone without patching?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Xtreme Set is a polymer so it won't accept stain. It's cloudy white once cured.

Actually cracks can look cool once stained, might just leave them or accent them with a darker stain.


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[delgjm49]

Awesome thank you! Glad to hear I can leave the cracks too!

Any tips or tricks to make the extreme set more blended into the rest of the floor? Like grind down a bit and put something else over those spots that is darker or would accept stain?

We are using the lead stain, so we will end up with lots of white spots around the edge of the floor and a few where there were tiles by a walkout.

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[LegacyIndustrial]

Yes can grind it down minimizing the amount of polymer sitting on the surface.
The stain will be darker anywhere you grind, so keep this in mind.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

1. Plan: Clean, Fix Cracks, Etch, Stain (Legacy Delta Dye, 2 coats), Coat 1, Coat 2, Wax (Legacy Cherry Wax). Is this sound? ETCH FIRST THEN MAKE REPAIRS WITH XTREME SET

2. I didn't go with any non-skid additive. I think I blanked because with the wax on top I wasn't thinking of putting anything in the sealer's second coat. If I wanted to grab any anti-skid, with the wax on top, would it still go in the second coat of the 6525, or instead into the wax itself, or does the wax inherently offer some non-skid properties?
IF NOT WET, THE WAX ACTUALLY MAKES THE FLOOR A LITTLE MORE GRABBY.

3. Cleaning the concrete: I'm working in the basement and as I scrub up the floor I will be using a Shop-Vac to remove most of the "run-off" so to speak. Wanted a fairly strong product keeping in mind less ventilation and vacuum removal. There are multiple Simple Green products, Zep, the Costco Product; what are some solid degreaser/cleaner recommendations? YES USE A GREEN PRODUCT

4. Cracks: I'm using Extreme Set from Legacy, and directions seem straight forward. After patching cracks, do I prep these spots like the rest of the floor (acid etching)? ETCH THEN REPAIR

5. Etch: Is it okay to vacuum with a Shop-Vac for cleanup with etching, in terms of damage to the plastic components? I'm using a 16 gallon Rigid Shop-Vac with the water specific foam filter. ADD A CUP OF BAKING SODA TO YOUR RINSE WATER, WILL NEUTRALIZE, THEN VAC.

6. Drain: Like this post [link], I have a drain I wanted to "clean up" and patch around before sealing. Because of how significant the breakdown is I want to ensure I get it right. Other than removing loose debris first, would I just follow the recommended process by Zippercat or proceed differently?

7. Fully dry in between coat 1, coat 2, and waxing, correct?
CORRECT, ABOUT 4 HOURS OR NOT TACKY

8. Is it okay to proceed with coating around the furnace? Any issue with the tight space between the furnace and the drywall?

TURN IT OFF AND VENTILATE WELL, THIS (SEALER) IS A SOLVENT BASED PRODUCT!!!!

 

[delgjm49]

Wow thank you for the answers!

I'm actually mostly a little concerned about these patches! They are strong as hell but I miscalculated with the lack of stain uptake on it. I'm going to grind tomorrow and go from there, but I'm thinking I need to accept these white spots. It probably didn't help that the sand I used was white-ish.

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[delgjm49]

Ended up grinding the whole thing down with the diamabrush prep tool, followed by 4 inch turbo cup on edges. Cleaned twice after and ready to coat. Two weird issues. One, I found 3 nails that are completely flush smooth with the surface as I was grinding the edges... Must have missed them somehow. Can these be coated right over?

Also, I have a shallow oval shape pit I missed on the perimeter. Probably 1" x 0.5" size, 1/8 to 1/4" deep. Can I leave that or does it need to be patched first?

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