Basement Framing

[ET160]

I'm framing my basement and need some help thinking though the framing for a small section. The work is being done by some handymen with a painting and interior contractor I know. We have put up regular stud walls already in a room, but need to find a solution for a small section of concrete wall around walk-out areas with windows and doors that are above grade. Since the doors and windows are now set in the concrete wall, building a stud wall in front recesses the windows back another 4.5" or so.

I'd like to anchor pressure treated 2x4s flat to the wall and infill with R7.5 foam and drywall over the top, but I'm a little afraid of mold, since the area is used as a laundry. I was thinking that I could use sill plate gasket under the lumber, but then I'd have difficulty with adhesive.

One of the handymen thought we might be able to use metal furring channel, but I have no experience with it.

Any suggestions?

 

[GMCGarage]

I'm framing my basement and need some help thinking though the framing for a small section. The work is being done by some handymen with a painting and interior contractor I know. We have put up regular stud walls already in a room, but need to find a solution for a small section of concrete wall around walk-out areas with windows and doors that are above grade. Since the doors and windows are now set in the concrete wall, building a stud wall in front recesses the windows back another 4.5" or so.

I'd like to anchor pressure treated 2x4s flat to the wall and infill with R7.5 foam and drywall over the top, but I'm a little afraid of mold, since the area is used as a laundry. I was thinking that I could use sill plate gasket under the lumber, but then I'd have difficulty with adhesive.

One of the handymen thought we might be able to use metal furring channel, but I have no experience with it.

Any suggestions?

Cant it all be supported by the full height studs next to the windows? Then drywall? If its leaking, and getting wet, fix that too.

 

[Tejay]

Use continuous styrofoam sheets and strap over it with 1x4 . Put a horizontal board at the floor 1/2” up and then vertical framing also horizontal at the ceiling. You will need a hammer drill to attach boards through the styrofoam . Many different options for 1x4 attachment such as nylon anchors . Use sheathing tape on the styrofoam joints. This will give you a nicely sealed and insulated space

 

[rburke65]

A few photos....if you can.....would really help.

 

[D45]

When I framed out my old basement, I left a few inches between the concrete walls and the wood framing

This allowed me to run lines easier and fill it in with more insulation

Just an idea, it worked well for me

 

[Homerr]

Continuous rigid insulation against the concrete and then flat 2x framing up against that infilled with more rigid would be a good minimal hybrid system.

 

[yeldogt]

If the wall is flat -- I have done many as you propose. 2x4 PT on the flat w/ foam board -- even in the winter time the wall is not cold. Use glue and minimal fasteners to attach the drywall,

I'm also talking about walls with no water or moisture - none. Don't worry about the inside humidity -- that's another issue not linked to the wall.

Electrical is not a big issue for typical outlets -- needs to be thought out.

You can use metal -- get the heavy stuff in a smaller size. this will take up more room. I have framed basements with metal -- nice and straight.

 

[BarefootToolman]

Maybe I'm overlooking someones response, however, I don't see any mention of using a vapor barrier. You'll want to add the vapor barrier to help with the mold and mildew.

 

[yeldogt]

Maybe I'm overlooking someones response, however, I don't see any mention of using a vapor barrier. You'll want to add the vapor barrier to help with the mold and mildew.

With foam and the block wall a VB will trap moisture -- you have to have at least one side that can dry.

The problem with many VB applications -- people think of them as air sealing barriers. They are really designed to slow vapor transfer -- but still allow for drying. That's why plastic causes so many problems when anything leaks. And buildings leak.

 

[Bluevista]

If the walls are dry... extruded polystyrene glued to the walls with foam glue. Bottom plate at least a 1/2" out from that for an air gap. I rip pvc decking to go under the bottom plate so no moisture can wick up from the floor into the plate or the studs, don't need P treated plates then either.
Conventional stud 16" O.C. framing with fiberglass insulation. The vapor barrier is a hotly debated subject and I don't want to get into a shooting match. Ten guys will tell you ten different techniques, do whatever floats your boat.
A 2 x or 1 x tapconned through the XPS can get real expensive and labor intensive. It also makes wiring a PITA if you have to run EMT/thinwall to shallow boxes to make it all safe and legal, wiring is a piece o' cake with stud walls. I'm old school so I've never used steel studs in a basement but I don't see why not since they they bear no weight, maybe I'll try them next time.
You're only talking a couple of inches difference around the windows using stud walls. The biggest problem is guys frame them with the sill straight out from the walls and you end up with a hole in the wall and no light to the room/floor. I angle the bottom at a 45 degree angle, or whatever it works out to to miss the corner of the block on the bottom to the bottom of the window frame. The angle lets way more light in and opens up that hole for light. I drywall and corner bead the sides and use 3/4" plywood on the bottom angle and a flat 4-5" wood sill overhanging at at least an inch with 3/4-1" returns to finish the ends, apron piece under it as wide as the window opening as usual. It can be finished a lot of ways or even made wider to put wood trim up the window sides or pic frame it.

I got real long-winded here, I need to get out to the garage and do some damage so that I can afford to eat today.

 

[ET160]

Thanks for the replies. The catch now, after speaking with the county, is that I have to achieve an R10 value on the wall. Owens Corning pink board at 2" is R10. This messes things up a little with flat studs. I'm thinking that I may rip the 2x4 to 2" and turn it on its side. Johns Manville makes a R10 board that is 1.65", but it's hard to find.

I'll see if I can provide a picture tomorrow.

 

[Firebrick43]

InSoFast is a panel system that has plastic studs. It basically half of an icf that is attached to the wall and has no wood plus it has air/drain grooves to deal with moisture.
https://insofast.com/products/ex-panels/

They have a 2" (8.5 r value) and a 2.5" (10 r value) or you could use the 2" and apply some 3/4" xps over top and use longer drywall screws.

To bad you have already started framing. It's cheaper than wood/foam basement framing if your paying labor and a hell of a lot more efficient due to very little thermal bridging and it can't mold/rot.