Basement Shop Lighting

[MichaelBikel]

Hi guys,

I am new on here, after posting a few photos of my space someone pointed out that I should consider some different lighting choices. As of now I have 2 standard fixtures with incandescent bulbs.
So here are my questions:

1.I have never done anything with high voltage/i don't know what I am legally allowed to do since I am not an electrician. What do you think I could legally install?

2.What type of lighting should I use, flourescent, led, something else I don't even know about?

3.How may lights do you think would be appropriate?

I feel like that's a good starting point for this post, i'm open to any advice you guys have for me. Check out the photos to see what i'm working with.

Thanks

-Michael

 

[Muzzy]

I would start with replacing the two single bulbs with receptacles, and plugging in two bulb 4-foot T8 florescent fixtures in to them. Personally, I've had good luck with daylight spectrum T8's in the basement. That would give you a lot of light.

 

[mark11]

Two quick and easy ways you can go. You can add a few more of your current fixtures and put 100w equivalent led bulbs in. You'll wind up with a lot more light without increasing energy use or overloading the circuit.
I have 4' two bulb Lithonia wrap fixtures in my basement wood shop with Philips 5000k instantfit led's in them. I'm very happy with the look and the light. You could add plugs to your current fixtures or eliminate the fixtures and use the power that's there to power led's or T8's.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Hi Michael,

Welcome. I see you're local. Need to know dimensions L-W-H, main use for space and budget.

 

[MichaelBikel]

All good answers, raises more questions:

4.How do I choose a fixture based on power supply, lets say 15 or 20amp circuit.

5.Can myself I legally remove a fixture to install another, and could I move the romex to a better location?

6. Should I run tools off a separate circuit? There is an outlet on the far side of the basement that goes unused, thinking I can pop it off/pull the romex back/cut it and install it on my side of the basement for use as a dedicated line for tools. I only ask because right now the outlet I use is in conjunction with the lights so occasionally when I use a tool the lights may dim.

Hi Michael,

Welcome. I see you're local. Need to know dimensions L-W-H, main use for space and budget.

Good to see another CT member finally. I will have those answers for you sometime next week, thank you for your interest!

 

[Platonic Solid]

1. Have a plan and make sure you follow basic rules. Get a residential wiring book available at all hardware stores. What you're considering is very simple if the current lighting curcuit is a dedicated circuit (which is code today). If it is dedicated, then the max load for the total lighting circuit is 80% of the breaker value, thus 12A load for a 15A breaker or 16A load for a 20A breaker.

2. The sky's the limit on types of lighting. If you have the funds, my preference for a space like yours would be flat panel LED edge lit recessed between the rafters. If you're looking for a low budget install then any number of hanging fluorescent or LED shop lights could be recessed between the rafters. For best results on an open ceiling you'll need fixtures with reflectors. (The flat panel LED edge lit doesn't require a reflector since it's a flat panel of light).

3. Qty of lights depends on what you're doing in the space, reflectivity of all surfaces, your age (visual acuity). In a low ceiling space as yours, best results (most even shadow free illumination) are achieved with larger qty of lower lumen fixtures.

4. A typical 4ft 2-lamp F32T8 fluorescent strip light = 120VAC 0.47A, thus if you have a dedicated 15A circuit you could install up to 12A of fixtures as follows 12A / 0.47A = 25 fixtures.

5. As long as you follow code requirements and common sense you can legally relocate fixtures and romex. If you need to add length to existing romex or split the circuit, all terminations must be made in an accessible junction box.

6. By today's code lighting must be on a dedicated circuit. Run a seperate circuit for outlets - preferably off a 20A breaker with 12gA romex and 20A outlets.

 

[MichaelBikel]

1. Have a plan and make sure you follow basic rules. Get a residential wiring book available at all hardware stores. What you're considering is very simple if the current lighting curcuit is a dedicated circuit (which is code today). If it is dedicated, then the max load for the total lighting circuit is 80% of the breaker value, thus 12A load for a 15A breaker or 16A load for a 20A breaker.

2. The sky's the limit on types of lighting. If you have the funds, my preference for a space like yours would be flat panel LED edge lit recessed between the rafters. If you're looking for a low budget install then any number of hanging fluorescent or LED shop lights could be recessed between the rafters. For best results on an open ceiling you'll need fixtures with reflectors. (The flat panel LED edge lit doesn't require a reflector since it's a flat panel of light).

3. Qty of lights depends on what you're doing in the space, reflectivity of all surfaces, your age (visual acuity). In a low ceiling space as yours, best results (most even shadow free illumination) are achieved with larger qty of lower lumen fixtures.

4. A typical 4ft 2-lamp F32T8 fluorescent strip light = 120VAC 0.47A, thus if you have a dedicated 15A circuit you could install up to 12A of fixtures as follows 12A / 0.47A = 25 fixtures.

5. As long as you follow code requirements and common sense you can legally relocate fixtures and romex. If you need to add length to existing romex or split the circuit, all terminations must be made in an accessible junction box.

6. By today's code lighting must be on a dedicated circuit. Run a seperate circuit for outlets - preferably off a 20A breaker with 12gA romex and 20A outlets.

Okay, all great information. Took measurements, looks like I'm working with a 24'X14' space, forgot to measure the height but my guess is 7 or 7-1/2' to the bottom of the joists with about another 8-12" of space up from the bottom of the joist. I also started looking at the power and it looks like the circuit I'm on breaks out into 3 separate lines; 2 fixtures on my side of the basement, the family room tv! and another outlet on the other side of the basement in use by a cable box and part of the security system... That kind of *****, I was really hoping to get myself a dedicated line for power tools. As far as lighting I rigged up a fluorescent tonight (all i had was 2 T12s) it already improved the lighting drastically, i'm thinking four of these fixtures would be plenty for me as I would like to keep the cost down. The only problem I have with it is the washed out super white light that it emits but I guess that depends on the bulb/type as well.

 

[MichaelBikel]

Hey all so I have been doing some looking around/making some phone calls. I am going to town hall tomorrow to get some information on a permit for installing some lights. So since my project really comes down to budget I was thinking that I would go with one of these two fixtures but I can't decide which is really "better". I will say this, I do really like the Utilitech as is it ENCLOSED and looks streamlined. What do you guys think? Also what kind of bill am I looking at for a permit? Do I need to have an inspector over too?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_184349-13537-184349___?Ntt=184349&UserSearch=184349&productId=1225813

http://www.costco.com/4’-LED-Shop-Light-with-Chain-2-pack.product.100223617.html#

 

[MichaelBikel]

Also wanted to share this:

I realized that there was an outdoor outlet located on a tree in the back yard. In hopes that it was on its own circuit I tested it out, unfortunately it is tied in with the outlets in the kitchen. Still trying to figure out a dedicated power run.

[/url]IMG_7758 by MichaelBikel, on Flickr[/IMG]

I also started messing around with the fluorescent I have and it seems to do the trick of lighting the first 1/4 of the shop, just have to see where I would place my fixtures.

[/url]IMG_7767 by MichaelBikel, on Flickr[/IMG]

 

[MichaelBikel]

Also wondering if anyone has used this method to reduce shadow:
IMG_0005-640x4271 by MichaelBikel, on Flickr

PS If anyone has any pictures of their lighting set-up feel free to post them here

 

[Platonic Solid]

Total newbie over here, got a few questions.

1)What are your thoughts on this fixture? Thinking I could install 4-5 in the basement shop.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_184349-13537-184349___?Ntt=184349&UserSearch=184349&productId=1225813

Appears to be a fine fixture for your application.

2) Do fluorescent fixtures get wired in series? I know nothing about high voltage but when I look at the existing fixtures, it seems that there are more romex than you would expect between fixtures...

Not series, Parallel. Remember my prior suggestion = see #1 in post #6 above. I repeat: Get a book and read it.

3) What is the difficulty of adding in switchable zones?

Depends on how easy it is to run romex to desired switch and fixture locations.

4) What are the mathematics involved in calculating the max number of fixtures on a circuit (not using a dedicated lighting circuit)

Same as dedicated circuit answered in #1 of post 6. Total circuit load potential not to exceed 80% of breaker value. You'll have to make educated guesses at load potential at outlets.

5) can all fixtures be upgraded simply by using a Electronic ballast led tube or is it more difficult than switching just the tube?

There are 3 different types of LED tubes:
1. Ballast Compatible = just put it in existing fluorescent fixture = no wiring (must have fluorescent ballast to function).
2. Ballast Bypass = rewire fixture to remove ballast. AC goes to lamp holders.
3. Universal = lamp capable of working under both scenarios.

 

[MichaelBikel]

Appears to be a fine fixture for your application.


Not series, Parallel. Remember my prior suggestion = see #1 in post #6 above. I repeat: Get a book and read it.

Depends on how easy it is to run romex to desired switch and fixture locations.

Same as dedicated circuit answered in #1 of post 6. Total circuit load potential not to exceed 80% of breaker value. You'll have to make educated guesses at load potential at outlets.

There are 3 different types of LED tubes:
1. Ballast Compatible = just put it in existing fluorescent fixture = no wiring (must have fluorescent ballast to function).
2. Ballast Bypass = rewire fixture to remove ballast. AC goes to lamp holders.
3. Universal = lamp capable of working under both scenarios.

Thank you! I will refer back to this and your first comment for help. I really appreciate it!

 

[nadogail]

You are learning that there are an awful lot of options.
I lean toward the fluorescent fixtures from Lowes, I have similar fixtures in my garages, only with T12 tubes. I have a supply of T12 lamps, when they are exhausted I will replace the fixtures.
Painting your ceiling will improve any lighting you install.

If your budget is small or nonexistent, I suggest you investigate used fixtures.

 

[Platonic Solid]

The safest option is to sketch a plan of what you want and hand it to a licensed electrician to make it happen. You'll learn tons just by hanging around and watching.

 

[MichaelBikel]

The safest option is to sketch a plan of what you want and hand it to a licensed electrician to make it happen. You'll learn tons just by hanging around and watching.

Yeah see thats what I thought would happen when I went down to town hall with all my questions but they had no time for me even though I was the only one there... I have no problem researching and learning all this stuff but I always try to ask someone who knows what they are doing first. I feel like since my budget is pretty low nobody will take me seriously but I guess I will contact an electrician and see what happens...

 

[Platonic Solid]

You can spend your time making money to pay for the electrician or you can spend time gaining knowledge so you can do it yourself. The difference is the knowledge you gain from doing it "right" yourself will yield a much higher return over a lifetime. All you need is a desire and commitment to learn. In addition to buying a basic residential wiring book, there are tons of residential wiring guides and videos online.