Basement wall paint?

[vlocci]

I'm building a below grade shop (think walkout basement) of poured concrete and concrete slab roof. Think of it as a walkout basement.

There will not be any windows or skylights, so I want to keep the space as bright as possible. Ideally the walls will be white.

Can anyone suggest the best paint for concrete walls? These will be poured concrete, below grade, but waterproofed on the outside and with excellent drainage along the exterior that runs to daylight.

Ideally I would spray this, as rolling something this size will be a challenge.

Can I simply use generic masonry paint from the big box store? (Which I can spray) I don't see a need for drylock but please tell me if I'm wrong.

Anything I'm missing?

Vin

 

[77thor]

I would use DryLock waterproofing paint.

 

[vlocci]

Do you know if it can be sprayed through an airless sprayer?

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[jkeyser14]

Being a basement, I would use Hydroseal 75. The extra waterproofing is never a bad thing.

 

[Lynden]

Do you know if it can be sprayed through an airless sprayer?

APPLICATION

STIR THOROUGHLY BEFORE AND DURING APPLICATION. DO NOT THIN. Paint only when air and surface temperatures are 50°F or higher. Apply Latex Base DRYLOK Masonry Waterproofer directly on bare masonry. Apply irst coat with DRYLOK BRUSH or good quality nylon bristle brush working the WATERPROOFER into the pores of the masonry - avoid excessive brushing (see COVERAGE). APPLY TWO COATS. Allow to dry 3 hours between coats. The second coat may be applied by brush, roller or spray. For information on spray application, write UGL and ask for Spray Speciication Sheet D-88 or visit www.ugl.com.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...7cdb3edc.pdf&usg=AOvVaw2PIl6joLno3As5ld5nJ5KP

 

[spudley]

APPLICATION

STIR THOROUGHLY BEFORE AND DURING APPLICATION. DO NOT THIN. Paint only when air and surface temperatures are 50°F or higher. Apply Latex Base DRYLOK Masonry Waterproofer directly on bare masonry. Apply irst coat with DRYLOK BRUSH or good quality nylon bristle brush working the WATERPROOFER into the pores of the masonry - avoid excessive brushing (see COVERAGE). APPLY TWO COATS. Allow to dry 3 hours between coats. The second coat may be applied by brush, roller or spray. For information on spray application, write UGL and ask for Spray Speciication Sheet D-88

I brushed on Drylok on my basement block walls. If they say it can be sprayed, you'll probably need some big time equipment as the stuff is very thick. I doubt a Wagner type airless sprayer (if that's what you have) would work.
On poured concrete, I'd roll it on.

 

[jkeyser14]

Those of you talking about drylock should do some research. Every test I have ever looked at has shown that it doesn't work well at all. Do some research.

https://www.buildinggreen.com/blog/wingnut-real-world-testing-basement-waterproofing

 

[Bryan Burns]

I've used wall paint (white) on two of my basements and would do it again. Used drywall mud to smooth out some large voids and would do that again as well.

Buy some whitish paint on sale to use as a primer. The concrete ***** up paint.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

If you’re using a waterproofing membrane (Tuf-n-dri) I see no reason to use any kind of worthless “sealer” on the interior side.

Likewise, regular interior latex paint (though it will stick and cover), or even oil-based paint are not good choices because concrete is like a sponge- it will absorb moisture. And that moisture is usually the downfall of paint flaking off, mold, and mildew.

I would most likely use a concrete stain for walls. Something like this-
https://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-PR...erior-Exterior-Concrete-Stain-80005/308920524

But if you have plans to epoxy the floors, I might consider that for the walls also- if there is some form of “white”.

 

[vlocci]

Thanks guys,

I've had mixed results with drylock, and frankly hate applying the stuff. I much rather waterproof from the outside, which we will do on this project.

White strain looks interesting. Frankly, I had no idea there was such a thing. (In white). I may grab a gallon and see what coverage is like. Spraying this through an airless seems trivial and right up my alley.



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[Bryan Burns]

I've used wall paint (white) on two of my basements and would do it again. Used drywall mud to smooth out some large voids and would do that again as well.

Buy some whitish paint on sale to use as a primer. The concrete ***** up paint.

Here are three shots of my current basement walls which I painted over 10 years ago. No flaking anywhere. I do get significant water buildup outside the walls as evidenced by my sump cycling when it rains.

I brushed and rolled it on IIRC. Might have used a ruff rider in spots.

 

[nadogail]

Although I don't have a basement, or anything underground, based on my admittedly limited knowledge and understanding I would use UGL Drylock.

 

[Bryan Burns]

Although I don't have a basement, or anything underground, based on my admittedly limited knowledge and understanding I would use UGL Drylock.

Drylock is good for 15 psi but four feet of water exerts nearly 300 pounds of pressure per square foot of wall, and a basement footing with ten feet of saturated soil above it must withstand 600 pounds per square foot.

Around here, you need good drainage and a sump pump. New construction builders rely on this and not paint.

 

[slim39]

I used drylock on inside of my block garage 20 years ago nothing on the outside and never had a bit of moisture inside Slim

 

[spudley]

Those of you talking about drylock should do some research. Every test I have ever looked at has shown that it doesn't work well at all. Do some research.

https://www.buildinggreen.com/blog/wingnut-real-world-testing-basement-waterproofing

Hmmm...The guys painting a poured wall, not CMU block as was used in your referenced "study". He also clearly stated waterproofing the outside was planned. Further I doubt he's building his shop in a pond, which in essence was what the "wingnut" study did.

In my real world research, I applied two coats of waterbased drylok to the inside of my cmu block basement walls I laid. On the outside I went old school as I troweled on a parge coat of mortar covered by foundation coating (tar). Then I backfilled the very sandy soil of the lake lot I built on. Twenty four years later the basement is bone dry.

Not bad for a product that doesn't work well at all.