Baseplate 2 post lift

[texasranger]

Greetings all! My wife and I are planning on purchasing a house within the next 2 years. I've pretty much decided that we won't find a house with a garage that will be big enough for what I want to do, so that brought me to this site researching garage builds (LLWilly's bunker is awesome!)

The zoning rules where we plan to buy a house limit the secondary structure to be no taller than the primary structure, or 25' whichever is shorter (still have to figure out how this is measured). The vast majority of houses in the area are split foyers. I've decided the garage will be at least 30x40 with as tall of walls as I can given the height restriction. The Atlas 10k 2 post overhead lift I want is geared toward a 12' ceiling. In the event I can't manage a 12' ceiling, I'm considering alternate ideas.

1) In-ground lift (Rotary Smartlift). Very expensive and not easy to move if I ever needed to.
2) Baseplate lift. I don't like the baseplate design since you have the baseplate to trip over. This got me thinking, would it be possible to form a 2" trench into the slab (or whatever the baseplate thickness is) where the baseplate lift would be installed? Has anyone tried this? Obviously the lift post mounting points would have to be "sunk" the same amount as the trench.

Once the lift is installed I would cut a piece of steel to sit over the baseplate, flush with the slab to allow a transmission jack and whatnot to be wheeled through.

Biggest drawback I can see is water and other junk collecting in the trench, and you couldn't let the carriage all the way down.

Thoughts?

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Most height restrictions are to the peak of the roof. You can get 12' sidewalls with a 4/12 pitch roof under 18'. Find out what you can do first, then plan for that as you can sometimes get an exemption on the rules. You could also lower the side walls a bit and go with scissor trusses on the inside to get the height back.

 

[texasranger]

Scissor trusses is certainly an option although I was hoping to go with attic trusses to gain some storage space.

I was mostly intrigued by the idea of sinking a baseplate lift into the slab by a few inches. I could see other benefits of this approach versus an overhead lift like hiding the carriages below grade when not in use to re-claim floor space, but there might be non-obvious consequences I'm missing.

 

[pattenp]

Stating the obvious, but you'd lose 3"-4" or more of lift height by recessing the the lift to hide the arms.

 

[scratchedup]

...This got me thinking, would it be possible to form a 2" trench into the slab (or whatever the baseplate thickness is) where the baseplate lift would be installed? Has anyone tried this? Obviously the lift post mounting points would have to be "sunk" the same amount as the trench.

Once the lift is installed I would cut a piece of steel to sit over the baseplate, flush with the slab to allow a transmission jack and whatnot to be wheeled through.

Biggest drawback I can see is water and other junk collecting in the trench, and you couldn't let the carriage all the way down.

Thoughts?

I have a lift as you describe here and the floor "elevated channel" is a PITA. The 2" recess into a new pour is something I also thought of but have not done yet. I think it is a very cool idea and yes you will lose 2" of lift.

 

[scratchedup]

I love my lift but...

 

[texasranger]

I love my lift but...

How tall is your ceiling and lift? I'd probably be able to avoid PITA #1 by carefully planning the ceiling and lift location. PITA #2 is more tricky.

I've also recently seen Mohawk lifts that seem to be hydraulically linked with no baseplate or overhead so that could be another option, hopefully can find used to save some $$.

Not too concerned about losing 2-4" of rise, I'd guess the ceiling would be the limiting factor.

Thanks for the feedback so far

 

[Full Size 66]

I would highly consider Mohawk. I am mostly convinced that is the brand I will purchase. The only thing that will change that is hard facts of better construction, or some unforeseen dangerous feature that is pointed out by several professional users and manufacturers. The American made thing helps too. When it comes to a lift with a heavy vehicle on it over your head there are NO runners up, no second choice, rarely a second chance. Go to you tube and seach for "car lift failure". That might help, I am not a doom sayer but in some areas you can't skimp.

 

[scratchedup]

How tall is your ceiling and lift? I'd probably be able to avoid PITA #1 by carefully planning the ceiling and lift location. PITA #2 is more tricky.

9' floor to base of lam-beam sheetrock. Floor to top of lift post 8' 6".

I got this lift for 0$. PITA #2 is PITA but O$

 

[ScaldedDog]

What if you used scissor trusses to effectively raise the ceiling height? I built what amounts to a three car garage, with the lift bay in the middle (using an in-ground SmartLift). Even though it's only 12'6" at the peak, I can lift my Excursion well over my head:

I'd think you could do something similar with a base-plate or plain ol' two-post lift.

Mark

 

[Perryk]

Scissor trusses is certainly an option although I was hoping to go with attic trusses to gain some storage space.

I was mostly intrigued by the idea of sinking a baseplate lift into the slab by a few inches. I could see other benefits of this approach versus an overhead lift like hiding the carriages below grade when not in use to re-claim floor space, but there might be non-obvious consequences I'm missing.

If you have a height restriction then I would forget the attic trusses. When I built my shop, the attic trusses were more than 2x my scissor trusses.

I built mine 32' wide with a scissor truss and my 2 post lift fits perfectly...with 11' walls