BASIC body tool list

[plow]

I'm in the process (waiting for the 100+ deg temp to go away) of preserving a 42 Ford G8T. I think I've posted pics of it here somewhere, Anyway, I think alot of the bodywork is mostly minor stuff that may fall into my skill set. never having done body work before I need a basic set of tools to preform this task.


My plan is to take it pull it off the truck and do it one piece at a time on saw horses. IE fender, hood, fender, door, door etc. leaving the cab for last as it will require a new floor and corners, Maybe the part of the door that the hinges mount.

So other than saw horses, What do I need? BTW, I'm not expecting to put out Pebble Beach quality work here.

 

[Tawn]

Off the top of my head:
Body hammer
Dolly
Grinder (pneumatic or electric)
DA
Drill with wire wheel
Sanding Block
Longboard
Cheap gun to shoot primer
Better gun to shoot topcoat
......And a Lot of sandpaper

 

[plow]

Cool. I have tools for maintenance on the equipment here at home, So grinders, WW and drills I have. Sanding blocks I can make from wood no?

 

[Tawn]

I'm a fan of the Hutchins longboards and 3M blocks. They work well with the pre-cut, adhesive paper. Different diameter hoses such as heater hose and radiator hose make good "blocks" when working with some inside curves.

 

[54FordPanel]

Do you have an air compressor? I recommend a DA sander and a air long board.

And a basic set of body hammers and dollys.

If you're priming and painting, I can't recommend the Air Gunsa gun enough. I love mine and it's a very good value for the money, about $120.

 

[RyanTN]

I really recommend "The Key to Metal Bumping" by Frank Sargent. It is a classic book that really helped me understand body work on classics. It has really given me the confidence to tackle my Cameo's bodywork myself, so far with excellent results.
You can get it through Eastwood or Amazon. Make sure it's the forth edition- the photos are much clearer and the pages are glossy (good for dirty hands and storage in the toolbox).
The above list looks good. I would ad the bodywork stands from Harbor Freight, they're a great buy for under $20! Also you may want an oxy/acetylene torch for metal shrinking.

Good luck! Keep us posted.

 

[Quickster]

Depending on the kind of dents I would get a stud gun and one of these http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/steck-stud-lever-20014-p-16707.aspx

There is another one called stud buddy.

Ive read few good things on these tools, its a cheaper way then to go with something like this
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/shark-ii-dent-removal-system-595-p-11743.aspx

Slide hammers ****.

 

[ZRX61]

I'm a fan of the Hutchins longboards and 3M blocks. They work well with the pre-cut, adhesive paper.

I prefer the Durablock & they sell a set of 5 or 6

 

[ZRX61]

I'm in the process (waiting for the 100+ deg temp to go away) of preserving a 42 Ford G8T.

Mine is a '43

 

[plow]

Do you have an air compressor? I recommend a DA sander and a air long board.

And a basic set of body hammers and dollys.

If you're priming and painting, I can't recommend the Air Gunsa gun enough. I love mine and it's a very good value for the money, about $120.

Yep. 80 Gal IR. An air long board is a sander right?

 

[plow]

Also you may want an oxy/acetylene torch for metal shrinking.

Good luck! Keep us posted.

Got one. Thanks for the book recommendation.

 

[ZRX61]

Yep. 80 Gal IR. An air long board is a sander right?

Yup, but there's hardly a flat panel on a G8T.

 

[plow]

Mine is a '43

You shoulddah kept that a secret. Now I'll be emailing you all the time with questions

 

[plow]

Yup, but there's hardly a flat panel on a G8T.

yep. So what do you use??

 

[plow]

Here's I'm dealing with.














Sorry bout the pics. I just took them and it's pitch black out there.

 

[Scott H in Wheaton]

I think a long air board is unnecessary. You shouldn't be slinging mud so thick that you need an air board to cut it. The Durablocks are long enough and if you cut first in one diagonal and next in the opposite diagonal you'll get it pretty straight.
Use a light colored primer and then lightly topcoat it with a black mist. They even sell a special spray for it called Guide Coat. As you lightly sand off the guide coat you'll instantly see your high and low spots.

 

[ZRX61]

yep. So what do you use??

I'd be starting with hammers & dollies etc to get the dents out (ignoring the old paint) Then once it's pretty straight, attacking it with 8in #80 sanding discs to get that **** paint shifted down to bare metal & remove the rust.

I use Durablocks & I have 3 other boards (I forget the brand, they're BRIGHT green) that have 3 removable steel rods in them to adjust stiffness & a thin spring steel face to use adhesive sanding rolls... but all that comes after you get it reasonably straight & throw some primer on it.

If you use filler remember that it ONLY goes over bare metal or epoxy primer, never over paint etc.
If you end up slapping filler on it, a 5in pneumatic grinder with #36 or #50 discs will key the metal so the filler doesn't end up laying next to the first pothole you hit while driving it...
& if the filler is more than 1/8in thick... you put it on before you got it straight enough for filler. Try to aim for no more than 1/16in of filler.

 

[ZRX61]

I should point out that mine looked like it had been attacked with ballpein hammers on the roof & both fenders were beat to hell. Is yours basically straight?

 

[ChevyEFI]

I should point out that mine looked like it had been attacked with ballpein hammers on the roof & both fenders were beat to hell. Is yours basically straight?

Hail? Or a combination?

 

[e-tek]

I'm a fan of the Hutchins longboards and 3M blocks. They work well with the pre-cut, adhesive paper. Different diameter hoses such as heater hose and radiator hose make good "blocks" when working with some inside curves.

I friggin HATE how all these blocks stop sticking as soon as you get them dusty - which is the first time!! What do you guys do to keep them cleanenough so the paper keeps sticking??

Here's I'm dealing with.



Sorry bout the pics. I just took them and it's pitch black out there.

That needs to be sandblasted.....

 

[signcrafter]

I friggin HATE how all these blocks stop sticking as soon as you get them dusty - which is the first time!! What do you guys do to keep them cleanenough so the paper keeps sticking??



That needs to be sandblasted.....

I bought a set of durablocks and a roll of 3M paper this summer and I have the opposite problem. If I leave the paper on for more then 24 hours it is stuck on the blocks! I actually try to get some dust on my blocks before putting fresh paper on so it doesn't stick permanently to the block. But those are the only brands I have used so not sure if it's just the brands I have or what.

 

[scarney1988]

Body hammers from HF will do but if you are looking for good quality USA made I would recommend Martin Tools.

A half mask for sanding and one for painting.

A box of latex gloves.

A box fan to help push dust away from where you are working and save your lungs.

Durablock is a must (i love using them)

A set of rigid (hard plastic) blocks helps in some scenarios too on panels without curves.

Patience.

Get what you need as you go is my only advice.

good luck.
Sean

 

[plow]

I should point out that mine looked like it had been attacked with ballpein hammers on the roof & both fenders were beat to hell. Is yours basically straight?

Basically straight. Here's better pics.






















E-Tec, I built a sand blast pot (haven't tried it out yet) for this truck but wasn't going to use it on the body panels for fear of fugging up the metal. I would be using screened play sand for my media. I can't justify the cost for the others.

 

[plow]

Pic 5 shows the worst of the damage on the fender, Not counting the rusted corners and floor. Hard to see, But it looks as though it's been in a fender bender and someone pounded it out and called it good.

 

[Cobra5150]

I found the Durablocks too stiff for the more rounded stuff. The AFS is the bright green ones and love 'em. I've got a 4", 9" & 21". Last week I did a skim coat of joint compound in our kitchen and I used the 21" to get the walls flat. The sanders come with rods you can insert if you working on a surface that's not as curvy. They're not cheap but good and worked wonders when I was doing the bodywork on my Cobra.
Also swim noodles made good blocks when you have small radius stuff. For paper I used Indasa Rhynodry self adhesive strips. Stuff cut through Evercoat Rage Gold like a hot knife through butter and lasted a long time. Roll out how much you need, peel, stic and start sanding.

AFS Sanders

 

[ZRX61]

That's the other buggers I have, AFS! Couldn't recall the name & couldn't be assed to go look.

I see your G8T is a civvy model, mine is the military version, Totally different dash, 6 lug wheels, no Ford script on the hood etc.



You can save that original steering wheel by V-grooving the cracks & filling with epoxy.

Given the straightness of your body I'd go straight to 8in #50 grit discs (mine are Norton brand) on an 7-9in electric grinder. I use an Horrible Fright model because I don't want to get all that **** in my nice Dewalts. You could also use one of those large striping discs that 3M make that look like a sponge.
If you stick to it, you could have it to bare metal easily in a day, I once striped an entire '70 Ranchero that way in a morning.

btw, EVERYTHING is available for these cabs.

I got the AC working on mine:

 

[ZRX61]

As for adhesion issues with durablocks:

If the old paper is stuck, quick pass with a heat gun or put it out in the sun (or stop using **** paper?)

If it won't stick: wipe the face of the block with lacquer thinner. They are made from recycled tires.

 

[ZRX61]

Hail? Or a combination?

Kids..

 

[plow]

I suspected that it was because of the chrome, But wasn't sure. However i have the data plates that were riveted to the dash and it says it was delivered to the ARMY iirc on Dec. 1942?????

 

[plow]

Oh yeah, Someone here told me that all the cabs were the same up to 47. Only very minor differences. That's good to know cuz you aint going to find chit for a 42 model.

 

[ZRX61]

Does yours have 5 or 6 lug wheels? & is yours the V8 or straight 6? Mine is the 6, it may end up with the V8 as a friend has a complete one for sale.

Parts here:
http://macsautoparts.com/landing-V8-Pickup/camid/FP1/ca/160/

 

[ZRX61]

There's a pick up version at the local scrap yard.. I WANT it...





& this one...that I don't want...



& an older one: