Basic multi meter for automotive and home use?

[Aaron_W]

Electrical is not my strong point.

I'm looking for a basic multi-meter primarily for hunting down automotive electrical gremlins, but it would be nice to be able to do basic trouble shooting on electrical motors, home appliances etc.

Not really seeing the difference between $30 meters and $100 meters.

What are the critical things one should look for in a meter for DIY electrical and auto work?




I was looking at this set at Home Depot for $39.00, seems like it would cover my needs fairly well. Would be nice if it wasn't made in China, but Klein sells a lot of made in USA stuff so if their meters are Chinese I'm guessing most are these days.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Electrical-Test-Kit-69149/204367271

 

[Tonyuk]

My multimeter cost around £50 from amazon a good few years ago. Ture RMS and loads of features, probably from Taiwan or similar.

If your just starting out a good mid-range meter will be fine. Fluke do very good kit but your looking at over £100 for one with a decent set of features.

A circuit tester is also extremely useful, mine is a powerprobe, cost about £80 for a kit.

 

[Mr_B]

A test light and basic meter like a holdpeak 770hd with add on current clamp do most things.
If are doing lot of mains voltage testing you may want go likes of fluke, maybe even used one .

 

[Buckaroo5]

I recently upgraded to a Fluke 88V which is my go to meter for all applications. It is pricey. For 25 years before that, however, I used an inexpensive multi-meter from Radio Shack which handled all my needs. Gave it to my son who is still using it.

I bought several of these a year ago to give away as gifts. Nice unit with amazing functionality at this price...great for a beginner. If you hook them up wrong, you can damage the meter so it is not a bad idea to start with an inexpensive one - you can always upgrade later.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXX2OYY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Also, since you are into automotive work, I attached a link to a Fluke publication which talks about various tests and how to perform them. Don't need to use a Fluke meter...you can use any multi-meter with the appropriate functionality to perform the tests.

http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf

Buckaroo

 

[Citation]

This Uni-T clamp meter is an easy one to recommend
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O1Q2HOQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

It has the typical basic meter functions plus a current clamp which is great for testing things like leakage current without putting the meter in series with the wire. It also has capacitance which can be helpful when diagnosing a bad starter cap on an electric motor. I wish it had temperature readings but it's still a good choice.

 

[fasteddie]

This Uni-T clamp meter is an easy one to recommend
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O1Q2HOQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

It has the typical basic meter functions plus a current clamp which is great for testing things like leakage current without putting the meter in series with the wire. It also has capacitance which can be helpful when diagnosing a bad starter cap on an electric motor. I wish it had temperature readings but it's still a good choice.

I bought a similar meter, the blue one. You might as well get one with an amp clamp, just make sure the specs clearly state the clamp will read DC. You will want that for automotive work.

 

[Davefr]

Unless you want an expensive Fluke, I'd get a UT139C. It has it all:
- True RMS
- Temperature
- Non contact voltage sensing
- Capacitance
- CAT3 rated
- Hold, Auto range
- Backlit

It's 5 stars on Amazon and is <$50.

Except for the price, the gap has really closed between these no name DMM's and Fluke.

 

[Buckaroo5]

If you decide to do the amp clamp, you may want to think about low current measurements for automotive work. A great application is looking for parasitic draw but you need to be able to measure down to 10mA or so as standard draw is 50mA. I have a rig that I use to do this but a low current amp clamp would be nice...

Buckaroo

 

[Davefr]

A free hf meter will suit you just fine.
I have much more expensive ones. They're on a shelf. Untouched for years.
No need for anything but the free ones I carry in each toolbox and each car.

It has been proven here, time and time again, that the difference between expensive and cheap is the fuse behavior over 400 volts and capabilities that you might only use once in a lifetime.

The freebie cannot test a capacitor, measure temperature, sense a live circuit, hold a measurement or backlite the display. In addition, the leads are total ****.

The Op probably doesn't need a $400 Fluke 87V, but for a few bucks more there are far superior options for home/automotive use.

 

[danb35]

I'd suggest a used Fluke 27/FM, which you can pick up for under $50. It's a rugged meter, built like a brick, and in a pinch could be used as one. It doesn't have a lot of bells and whistles, most of which you don't need anyway. Two it does have are min/max and touch hold. Min/max is on a number of meters, and does pretty much what it says: captures the minimum and maximum (voltage/current/resistance) over a period of time. Touch hold, AFAIK, is unique to Fluke, and it's very convenient when you're trying to probe something that's hard to reach. Turn it on, set your probes in place, the meter will take a reading and beep, and then hold that reading. Other meters with a hold feature need you to press the "hold" button while the reading is on the screen--much less useful.

The Fluke 27 doesn't do capacitance. Why would you need it? It doesn't do temperature either--I'll bet you have a thermometer. Some models do True RMS, some don't--but you're unlikely to need that for your stated use case. It lacks a backlight, and I'll grant that could be handy.

So why pay more for fewer features? Well, first, the features that are missing aren't going to be very useful, IMO. Second, it's a rugged meter that will easily survive living in the bottom of your toolbox/trunk/junk drawer, and the occasional drop/kick/step/dunk/etc. Third, it's independently lab-tested and rated for safety. Not such a big deal for automotive, but if you're dealing with mains voltages it gets quite a bit more important.

 

[Davefr]

The Fluke 27 doesn't do capacitance. Why would you need it?.

The OP said he want to use the meter for electric motor repair. Unless he's dealing with 3 phase, most motors have capacitors and it's among the first component to test in a problematic motor.

 

[Rabid Badger]

Another vote for the Uni-T UT210E.

 

[Citation]

A free hf meter will suit you just fine.
I have much more expensive ones. They're on a shelf. Untouched for years.
No need for anything but the free ones I carry in each toolbox and each car.

It has been proven here, time and time again, that the difference between expensive and cheap is the fuse behavior over 400 volts and capabilities that you might only use once in a lifetime.

I will admit a talking unit would be a nice upgrade. I'm pretty sure that would be really handy and worth paying for if you're upside down under a dash board in the dark.

The op is someone without a meter and has a precautionary, not an absolute, need for one.
Try the free unit and outgrow it if you can.

I've got a number of the freebies. There price is right. But the leads are very poor. While more often than not the things are sufficiently accurate, I've had a few that were or if spec more that I would like. A big negative is the lack of a continuity beep. They are certainly better than nothing but I wouldn't be ok without a second, better meter.

BTW, the safety on those it's total ****. I would never touch a 240V like with one of those. I'm not that happy to use them on 110V.

 

[Ilikeike]

The HD Klien works fine. The one I got was around $50. I keep it in my car hauler tool box. Volts, Ohm, continuity is 98.9% of DIY stuff you do on a car at home.
of course Fluke at work.

 

[Buckgnarly]

I've got a number of the freebies. There price is right. But the leads are very poor. While more often than not the things are sufficiently accurate, I've had a few that were or if spec more that I would like. A big negative is the lack of a continuity beep. They are certainly better than nothing but I wouldn't be ok without a second, better meter.

BTW, the safety on those it's total ****. I would never touch a 240V like with one of those. I'm not that happy to use them on 110V.

The leads are total ****! I had them short out through the insulation testing a 120 outlet, scared the **** out of me!

 

[danb35]

The OP said he want to use the meter for electric motor repair.

Fair enough. I'd still feel better with a Fluke (any Fluke, and especially a 27) on mains than a Uni-T, but I've heard generally good things about Uni-T.

Touch hold is awfully handy, though.

 

[Sevenhills1952]

Electrical is not my strong point.

I'm looking for a basic multi-meter primarily for hunting down automotive electrical gremlins, but it would be nice to be able to do basic trouble shooting on electrical motors, home appliances etc.

Not really seeing the difference between $30 meters and $100 meters.

What are the critical things one should look for in a meter for DIY electrical and auto work?




I was looking at this set at Home Depot for $39.00, seems like it would cover my needs fairly well. Would be nice if it wasn't made in China, but Klein sells a lot of made in USA stuff so if their meters are Chinese I'm guessing most are these days.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Electrical-Test-Kit-69149/204367271

I'm a retired electronic technician and I have a bunch of meters.
That Harbor Freight Klein for $39 is ok. As someone said the free Harbor Freight ones are ok and lost nothing if damaged and good to practice with.
Main thing, set to proper range before measurements. Ohms scale never on anything with power. Amps in series with load starting with highest range.
Analog meter has merit also at times since you can see needle fluctuations instead of flashing numbers.
Fluke is great, but I would start with less expensive ones first.

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk

 

[Crazyjake8493]

A free hf meter will suit you just fine.
I have much more expensive ones. They're on a shelf. Untouched for years.
No need for anything but the free ones I carry in each toolbox and each car.

The only thing those free meters should be used for is basic automotive work, 12v only. Even then, they're very limited and the leads are junk. I have one in my center console, but I also have a Uni-T in my tool box in the trunk that I actually use.

 

[pstemari]

If you're using this on mains voltage, you want something rated at least CAT III from a reputable brand. Klein is fine, Fluke or Keysight/Agilent/HP is better.

Uni-T I would not trust. I forget if it was BigClive or EEVBlog, but one of them had a pretty disturbing failure with a Uni-T meter.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[jacked_72]

Us the free Harbor Freight meter until you figure out if you need something better. I've used one for years and years.

 

[Mr_B]

2 cheap meters I like and own and use in daily auto shop is uni-t 210e and holdpeak 770hd
I've used the uni-t on compressor motor and capacitors ect .
Both cover huge amount of tests, get the 600A clamp for the holdpeak and set of better leads for mains work and you done for very little outlay .

 

[clubairth]

Yes start with the free HF meter. I have 5 so far. You can throw it away if problems. Now I LOVE my Fluke 87V and the Silicon leads. But it's expensive and I will never wear it out.
.
.
.

 

[Sevenhills1952]

Here are two free Harbor Freight ones and a Fluke 11. As you can see they're all close, connected to a power supply.
Leads are junk, but you can buy or make your own better leads. I like about 3 ft. lamp cord, banana clip one end, alligator clip or probe other, or order lead eBay cheap from China like these.

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk

 

[fasteddie]

Analog meter has merit also at times since you can see needle fluctuations instead of flashing numbers.

A must for working on audio circuits. The few I had all died years ago, I need to pick up a cheap analog.

 

[jd_1138]

I have this Etekcity one -- all of $27. It is auto ranging for the units.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Multimeters-Auto-Ranging-Multimeter-Resistance/dp/B00NWGZ4XC

Though A Fluke might be a better option if you can afford a basic Fluke (not sure how much they are). If you're doing a lot of your own repairs, you're saving tons of money so dropping $100 on a multimeter is reasonable.

 

[Citation]

I'm a retired electronic technician and I have a bunch of meters.
That Harbor Freight Klein for $39 is ok. As someone said the free Harbor Freight ones are ok and lost nothing if damaged and good to practice with.
Main thing, set to proper range before measurements. Ohms scale never on anything with power. Amps in series with load starting with highest range.
Analog meter has merit also at times since you can see needle fluctuations instead of flashing numbers.
Fluke is great, but I would start with less expensive ones first.

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk

Ohms applied to voltage... yup, that's one of the tests the HF cheapie will fail but Fluke will not. Fluke (and other good meters) per CAT standards must safely handle any allowable voltage across any input. This only means safe for the user. A blown fuse is allowed.

 

[Rabid Badger]

I don't understand how anyone could recommend a meter without a clamp for automotive work. Having to break a circuit to check current (let alone the idea of putting a HF freebie inline) is silly. Especially when the UT210e can measure DC current in the milliamp range and can be had for under $50.

The UT210e is perfectly safe. It has reasonable protection on the input jacks, and since it's a clamp meter there's no fuses to worry about.

Don't get me started on the suggestions that the HF meter is safe for use at mains voltage/current levels.

 

[danb35]

I don't understand how anyone could recommend a meter without a clamp for automotive work.

Maybe because it's a pretty rare case where you need to measure current--at least in my own experience. The only cases where I've measured current in automotive work have been looking for current drain by circuit, where I didn't have a single wire to clamp on to anyway.

Don't get me started on the suggestions that the HF meter is safe for use at mains voltage/current levels.

Agreed--hence my recommendation for the bombproof Fluke 27.

 

[Citation]

I have this Etekcity one -- all of $27. It is auto ranging for the units.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Multimeters-Auto-Ranging-Multimeter-Resistance/dp/B00NWGZ4XC

Though A Fluke might be a better option if you can afford a basic Fluke (not sure how much they are). If you're doing a lot of your own repairs, you're saving tons of money so dropping $100 on a multimeter is reasonable.

Etekcity seems to be the Uni-T brand in the US. I haven't used that meter but it's worth noting the clamp is AC only. The reason why people like the 210e is the DC clamp.

 

[Mr_B]

^ yeh the ut210e and ut204a are most useful clamp style for auto work and no more than 30bucks
I prefer the holdpeak over the ut204a, both have 600A dc ability but holdpeak has add on clamp which easier than sticking whole meter down a gap then trying read display plus it got better functions and big display .
I use the ut210e a lot for basic quick checks, it small and simple and very accurate .

 

[Rabid Badger]

Some can, some can't.
I can and will. You can't and won't

Oh, I'm fully capable of making poor decisions. I just choose not to most of the time.

I'll guess, and it's a guess, that the ten million or so freebie hf meters and their immediate ilk haven't killed or hurt to any considerd degree enough people to warrant the mere .0001percent of hf profit being dropped due to liability.

Ah, but there are plenty of electrocutions every year. Thousands of house fires. How many of those might be due to someone trusting their life to a meter they got for free with a 25¢ screwdriver?

I am certainly not recommending them over anything else.

Okay.

I am recommending that for someone without a meter, and has no specific use for a meter, they're fine until they're not.

If were talking DC, under 24V and 1A, sure.

If you can't build/buy leads, you shouldn't be dicking with a meter.

This is just silly.

1) Why screw around acquiring the necessary components to make leads when you can get a properly designed/manufactured set for $12. Hell, you can get USA made Probe Masters for $17.

2) Why spend $12 for leads to use with a free meter when for $40 you can get a meter that's safe, durable, reliable and has far more features? One of these options is a wise investment, one is not.

 

[Aaron_W]

I recently upgraded to a Fluke 88V which is my go to meter for all applications. It is pricey. For 25 years before that, however, I used an inexpensive multi-meter from Radio Shack which handled all my needs. Gave it to my son who is still using it.

I bought several of these a year ago to give away as gifts. Nice unit with amazing functionality at this price...great for a beginner. If you hook them up wrong, you can damage the meter so it is not a bad idea to start with an inexpensive one - you can always upgrade later.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXX2OYY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Also, since you are into automotive work, I attached a link to a Fluke publication which talks about various tests and how to perform them. Don't need to use a Fluke meter...you can use any multi-meter with the appropriate functionality to perform the tests.

http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf

Buckaroo

Thanks for the link to the Fluke guide. I'm realizing from the fact some of the answers don't appear to be in English that I know even less than I thought and I already thought I didn't know much.

 

[Aaron_W]

Also I don't mess around with anything over 110 in the house. I'll wire lights and outlets and such, but I hire an electrician when I need to do anything 220 or greater.

I have great respect for electricity.

 

[Crazyjake8493]

I don't understand how anyone could recommend a meter without a clamp for automotive work. Having to break a circuit to check current (let alone the idea of putting a HF freebie inline) is silly. Especially when the UT210e can measure DC current in the milliamp range and can be had for under $50.

The UT210e is pretty much the best meter you can get for the dollar value for automotive. I used one extensively as an RV mechanic, and still use it for automotive work. For everything else I use a Klein CL800.

 

[Mr_B]

ut210e is about 35 bucks currently via ebay
very useful for the cost ...