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Basic truck jack question.

ymc226

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Dec 16, 2015
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35
I'm looking to get an appropriate floor jack for my new 2016 3 ton Suburban. Since one side is lifted at a time, should the capacity of the jack be 1 1/2 tons or does the jack capacity have to include the total weight of the vehicle?

While I'm here, any specific USA made stands I should consider (only doing oil and filter changes)
 
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jidonsu

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Sep 17, 2016
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I'd get the 3 ton jack at minimum just because they tend to have better leverage for lifting heavy weights. Plus, you really shouldn't be working at the limit of the jack capacity anyways.
 

theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
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SE MI
1-1/2 ton is a little iffy. 2 ton and up would be better.

Biggest problem with jacking up any truck with a floor jack is the space between the lifting pad/saddle and the bottom of the jack point. Related to that is the toal lift capability of a floor jack.

I use a chuck of old 4x6 as a spacer on top of the saddle.
 
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ymc226

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Dec 16, 2015
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Thanks all, I'll definitely consider the HF Daytona and look at the US Jacks
 

6PTsocket

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Mar 12, 2014
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I hane a Hein Werner 2 ton, Made in USA jack and it picks up my Dodge Ram 1500 like nothing. I never work under a jack. Here I went cheap. I have a set of Chinese,maybe HF, 6 ton stands. I have used them for many years and on occasion, months at a time with absolutely no problem. They are big crude hunks of steel and iron, with little to go wrong. Some of the import jacks may be another story. I have seen 2 ton ratings on toys that don't lift very high and have a small footprint that can't be very stable. I would be more concerned with the quality than the rating.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

owenst7

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Oct 19, 2011
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Anchorage/Reno
Big thing with any truck chassis/4x4 type vehicle is going to be lift height. You can get by with less, but 24" has always been my standard, which used to be standard for a 3 ton floor jack. This matched most 6 ton jack stands. Lately I've noticed most of the 3 ton jacks on the market only lift to 20-22" which kind of *****, but I guess it's close enough.

Just to give you an idea of why you'd want to lift that high:
My stock K1500 has about 12-14" of droop on the rear suspension. In the event that you need to work on the rear suspension (say to replace a spring bushing), you'll need to support the frame and let the axle hang freely. This will require lifting the rear axle pretty much to the limit of a 24" floor jack and setting the frame down on something like a jack stand that is extended about 36" off the ground.

Another situation would be doing front wheel bearings or even brakes on the same truck. Since it is IFS, you'll need to lift the center of the truck several inches higher than the center of the tire in order to get the wheel off the ground. The most sturdy place to support the truck from jackstands so you can work is right under the tow hooks under the front bumper. With the front suspension at full droop, that area of the frame is about 18" off the ground. You need a floor jack that is capable of raising to at least about 18" in order to safely get both front tires off the ground to put jack stands under the frame. You can get away with less if you place the stands under the frame rails near the firewall, but some times that isn't as steady, and it will require you to lift the truck twice to place two stands which is annoying.

A smaller jack may be capable of lifting the vehicle, but it usually isn't as steady, and usually requires a lot more work with your arm. For perspective, my 3 ton floor jacks are typically a lot of work to lift a 3/4 ton diesel truck that weighs around 8k lbs. If I were working on those more frequently, I'd probably upgrade to bigger floor jacks.
 
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manioso

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Mar 7, 2010
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Princeton, NJ
I'm on my second F350 CC/DRW and have progressed from a mid-60's Walker 4ton to a later (1980's) Walker 4ton. I would be uncomfortable with anything less. They are both long frame which makes them more difficult to store, but the long frame and handle gives you good leverage to move the vehicle around if you need to. I bought both second hand and sold the first on Craigslist.

If I were buying new, I'd probably go with the Milwaukee 4ton. Expensive, but I consider it the best of the breed. Many years ago I used to have a Milwaukee 2ton, which was also a great jack. Got rid of it and now rely on a Hein Werner 1 1/2ton and 1 1/4ton for wife's CRV and my BMW. H-W OS and WS have been out of production for years, but are maintainable and all soft parts are still availale, as are those for the Walker.
 

JJThrasher

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Indiana
If all you're doing is oil changes I'd look at some Rhino Ramps. They're rated for 6 tons and way quicker than a jack and stands.

That said 2-2.5 tons would be fine since you are only lifting part of the weight at a time.
 
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WWheeler

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Jun 23, 2015
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Middleofnowhere USA
I hane a Hein Werner 2 ton, Made in USA jack and it picks up my Dodge Ram 1500 like nothing. ...

FWIW, if it matters to you I believe I read somewhere here recently that Hein-Werner jacks are now assembled in USA with global parts. I still see them listed as 'made in USA' at a lot of places online and have seen more than a few people mention in the comments that they found out after receiving one that it wasn't exactly the case.

No doubt they are still some of the best floor jacks you can get. Wish one was in my budget.

That Daytona jack is a bit low profile for a suburban, no?

It is low profile at just under 4" but has a dual pump rapid lift or whatever it's called design and a 23" max lift height. That's what first put the Daytona on my radar as I haven't seen many with a much higher lift height than that, at least not in that price range. (just for comparison I believe a 3 ton Hein Werner has a similar max lift height & their 2 ton a few inches less)
 
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6PTsocket

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My 2 ton Hein Werner weighs 93 lbs and lifts to 20.25". It is plenty stable. A little more lift would be nice but under the cross brace it picks up the 1500 plenty high enough. The six ton stands are up several notches. In the rear I just get under the center of the axle. Mine is old enough to be totally Made in USA. They also have gone up a hundred bucks since I got mine.
 

mtnwkr

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Aug 4, 2013
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237
Location
bremerton, wa
I've done a ton of work on my 2008 tundra with my Hein Warner 1 1/4T jack and never felt under gunned or that I was working it too hard. For stands I have 6ton, I don't want them to fail!

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MN_Runner

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Sep 15, 2013
Messages
186
I'm looking to get an appropriate floor jack for my new 2016 3 ton Suburban. Since one side is lifted at a time, should the capacity of the jack be 1 1/2 tons or does the jack capacity have to include the total weight of the vehicle?

While I'm here, any specific USA made stands I should consider (only doing oil and filter changes)

As people said before, +100 for HF Daytona Professional 3T floor jack. At $199 it is a great deal. eBay has it for $100(including the delivery) so I would do that option.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Ton-Dayto...:g:5hsAAOSwo4pYEFMZ&item=222294011958&vxp=mtr
 

tw05

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Dec 15, 2014
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66
Location
Philly
As people said before, +100 for HF Daytona Professional 3T floor jack. At $199 it is a great deal. eBay has it for $100(including the delivery) so I would do that option.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Ton-Dayto...:g:5hsAAOSwo4pYEFMZ&item=222294011958&vxp=mtr

I see three different listings on eBay for $100 or less. With shipping that's a great deal but something just doesn't look legitimate to me (new listings, low number of feedback, single listing with many jacks for sale). Maybe I'm a skeptic but I just wanted to put this out there for people to consider. I know PayPal will usually cover the buyer in case of impropriety but it can take a while to get your money back.
 
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