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Basic welding question I cant find in a book

ckadams00

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Seattle, WA
I have a new Hobart Flux welder and have been practicing beads on scrap 1/8th and a little thicker. Obviously when heated the metal begins to warp. My question is: how do you control the warping in a build? I don't want to get started on a welding cart or something and warp the metal to the point my angles don't line up?! This is probably the most basic question for a lot of you guys but I have picked up about four welding books at the library and can't find the answer and I don't want to start screwing up projects without knowing the best way to avoid this.

Thanks for any advice:dunno:
 
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zkling

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Tacking, minimal heat input, jigs/fixtures/clamps, alternating sides to equalize pulls.
 

A_Pmech

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The Lincoln "Procedure Handbook of Arc Welding" contains a good chapter on weldment design to minimize distortion.

I suggest you start there.

:thumbup:
 

Bobhdus

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As said already, clamp and tack. Sometimes, you can compensate by slightly over-extending a joint and letting the tacks draw it to the desired fit. You can also skip around alternating the tacks kinda like you would in a bolt torque sequence... Probably the best welding book I ever read about welding was called "Pipe Welding Procedures". It's mostly about stick/ tig welding and pipe procedures but covers so much about tacking, penetration, warpage, metallurgy etc...
2ysapy3e.jpg
 
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Engine

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Tacking, minimal heat input, jigs/fixtures/clamps, alternating sides to equalize pulls.

This just about summarizes it all. Also, the fit up is important. Try not to leave gaps any larger than necessary. The more filler metal that is added to fill the gap, the more shrinkage.
 

dr_clyde

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One of the big tricks is to know how much a weld will distort, and in what direction. That way, you can pull out of square joints into square, and be able to predict what a weldment will do when you light up on it. That said, minimizing heat input, and lots of clamping and fixture will help. These options are not always available, so being able to tack in a way that the joint will be correct AFTER the weld is a good skill to have.
 

Paticus

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I used to battle warping a lot with oxy-acetylene welding. You will find that if you clamp and/or tack your projects together first, you will minimize movement. Also, be mindful of running long beads on parts that are prone to warping (stressed metal, long, thin pieces, etc.
Metal temperament changes can be a b*tch. you will find flat stock and plate are especially prone to it, but angle and square/round tubing is much more forgiving and generally holds shape better.
 
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erat

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Everything you need to know has pretty much already been said.

Tack everything together first.

Even with tacks things still may bend, but for a simple cart you'd be fine.

Remember any weld will pull together when it cools. So if you're building a box, you want it to pull in on itself. So you weld inside corners first. It all depends.

It's just practice, the more you do it the more you learn.
 

kerrynzl

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Heat expansion isn't the main problem, it is when the molten "filler" cools it shrinks and pulls [stresses] the main material.

If possible I get a BFH [ ballpeen variety ] and hammer the weld to expand it into the main material while it cools.

For long[ish] welds try a method called "back stepping" [Google images will show you]

After a while you'll lean how it will warp [shrink] and learn to clamp it properly too "break it's back"

Here's an example of "breaking it's back" when welding a tongue onto a X-member of a trailer.

If you look closely in picture 1 & 2 there is a piece of 1/8 flat clamped between the two pieces
Picture 3 is the finished result after it has cooled
 

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jsaw

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Neutral tacks, If possible, try to place your tacks where they will not pull your work piece out of position when it cools. Not always possible to do it, but where you can, it works better. Practice at it and experiment. You will gain experience.
 

Brad54

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One of the big tricks is to know how much a weld will distort, and in what direction. That way, you can pull out of square joints into square, and be able to predict what a weldment will do when you light up on it. That said, minimizing heat input, and lots of clamping and fixture will help. These options are not always available, so being able to tack in a way that the joint will be correct AFTER the weld is a good skill to have.

This is an excellent tip.
Here is an example:
Say you have two pieces of 1x1 box tubing, and you are going to weld them into a "T"
Your first thought is to weld inside the corners, where the pieces meet.

If you do it that way, here is what will happen:

Here is your "T" union, laid on its side so I can demonstrate this with the symbols on the keyboard:
—l
If you weld in the inside corners where they meet, you will build heat in the middle of the intersecting piece, and it will pull in toward the weld.
—)

So what you do is weld on the SIDES of the two pieces, where they come together, rather than in the corners.

Not sure if that makes sense, but it will the first time you weld two pieces of box tubing together.

Welding makes metal grow.
You control the growth by "growing" it in the opposite direction, and it should come back in to square.

Good tack welds help too. And of course, as others have said, clamping.

-Brad
 

digdug18

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Feb 14, 2010
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Danville, PA
Although if your welding something that you can't clamp enough, like a bolt handle on a firearm, changing it from a straight bolt to a bent bolt, you add a couple heat sinks and plenty of heat stop paste. Doing so that you don't risk changing the hardening on the main bolt body.
 

bczygan

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Nov 4, 2009
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DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
As said already, clamp and tack. Sometimes, you can compensate by slightly over-extending a joint and letting the tacks draw it to the desired fit. You can also skip around alternating the tacks kinda like you would in a bolt torque sequence... Probably the best welding book I ever read about welding was called "Pipe Welding Procedures". It's mostly about stick/ tig welding and pipe procedures but covers so much about tacking, penetration, warpage, metallurgy etc...
2ysapy3e.jpg

Here's a free PDF copy of the book!

http://research.irantvto.ir/welding/Pipe%20Welding%20Procedures.pdf
 
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