To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Bathroom condensation issue

ive

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 8, 2011
Messages
1,533
Location
Canada
Hi all.

I've encountered a problem. It seems that in our bedroom bathroom we have excessive moisture. I believe our bathroom fan is underpowered. It's probably a 80 cfm fan.

My wife takes long showers, 20 minutes. If I were to upgrade that fan to a 200cfm fan would that **** enough or do I need 2 fans in our bedroom bathroom.

Any advice appreciated. Thanks so much!

Ivan.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

CharlieM

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 8, 2005
Messages
280
You can always use a digital countdown timer switch, and leave it running for up to 1 hour after the shower to remove the moisture. It will replace the switch in the wall, instead of ripping out the fan.
 

ishiboo

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 27, 2010
Messages
9,481
Location
Oshkosh, WI
Get the Panasonic bathroom fan, it's the quietest and most reliable. Bath fans are measured in "sones" for quietness. Also, be sure to have the correct amount of CFM for the space. Too little and you'll get moisture, too much and you're wasting heated/cooled air. My fan is mounted right above the shower, I get absolutely no moisture.
 

n8n

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 11, 2014
Messages
3,613
Location
Curtis Bay, MD
yes, everyone's mentioned most of my recommendations

- Panasonic "quiet" fan
- replace switch with countdown timer
- uprate CFM of fan

but finally, if the fan you select has a 4" outlet, you will want to replace the likely 3" duct from your existing fan to the vent hood with 4" and a new matching 4" vent hood. A short section of flex between the fan and duct will keep things quiet, but use as much smooth hard duct as you can to minimize restriction to flow.

The countdown timer is possibly the most important part of this whole exercise but I hardly ever see it used. It's especially great if you tend to shower in the morning and then immediately leave for work; then you don't have to shut the fan off before you've got all the moisture out of the bathroom or else leave the fan running all day while you're gone.
 

brewchief

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
2,372
Location
Michigan
I second(or third) the Panasonic recommendation, as well as making sure the duct actually goes outside and is as short as possibile.

Fans with humidity sensors are available now that will come on automatically on a sharp rise in humidity and run until cleared out, those would be great if you have someone in the household that always seems to forget to turn the fan on before getting in the shower.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
I

ive

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 8, 2011
Messages
1,533
Location
Canada
Hi guys. Thanks for all the input.

What I need is a fan that can move 160 cfm. Who carries these Panasonic fans? Other than being being quiet, what's so great about the Panasonic?
 

n8n

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 11, 2014
Messages
3,613
Location
Curtis Bay, MD
the quietness is the real advantage to the Panasonic, and I suspect that they will last longer than other units as well. If quietness is not a real concern to you, then anything with the correct CFM rating should work OK. I think I mail ordered my Panasonic fan from Dale Electric as I couldn't find a local supplier.
 

LS6 Tommy

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 27, 2013
Messages
26,162
Location
Northern NJ
Where are you getting the condensation? If it's on the ceiling, what's above the bathroom? Relief may be as simple as rolling out some insulation...

Tommy
 
Last edited:

David C

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 10, 2014
Messages
157
Location
Northern California
Normally I am a lurker (on a lot of forums) but I have gotten a lot of info here expecially from 2 many projects and I wanted to pay a little back to this forum.

I believe you are correct and need more airflow. Others have commented that you have to allow air to enter the room in order for the air to be exhuasted from the room. But not stated, is that your installation maybe restricting air flow on the discharge side too.

Most of the inexpensive residential bathroom exhaust fans are not made to discharge much air in the first place, and then it is through 3" to 4" plastic piping. If the contractor put too many elbows in the pipe you may not be able to overcome the friction loses and the result is reduced air flow. Three to four inch dia. pipe will not allow much airflow at the ESP (external static pressure) supplied by most cheap fans. Additionally something could be lodged in the discharge pipe, or at the discharge fitting.

If you have an attic over your bathroom then you could install your own exhasut air system with a ceiling grille, duct and fan supported from rafters. This will reduce noise (done right you won't even hear the fan) and you can size a fan to provide the flow you require.

If you don't have an attic search around for a more expensive replacement and get one with a high static (ESP) capacity. I agree 200 CFM would be a minium. As stated above 200 CFM is a lot to push through a 4" plastic pipe. If it is possible you might replace the 4" pipe with a 6" or 8" duct.

Do not discharge the fan exhaust into your attic. Make certain the discharge is not directly under an eave or rake or second story deck. If you use a discharge wall fiting with a backdraft damper be certain that it operates freely.

The suggestion of additional insullation is an interesting one but the best you could hope for with this is to slow down the rate condensation. You wouldn't be doing anything about removing it. This might help a little with an underperforming fan, say give the fan more time to exhaust the air. I would spend the money on a more powerful fan.

If you cool your house in the summer you can save money by removing the humidty through an exhaust fan rather than pay for the AC make condensate.

You might also research an electrical delay to the fan motor. When you shut off the bathroom fan, likely in concert with the bathroom light, set the delay device for an extra period of run time. Or put the fan on it's own switch and leave it on for a long time, like 1 hour or more.

David
 

sands35

Well-known member
Joined
May 29, 2012
Messages
936
Location
St. Joseph, MI
Rule of thumb is size the fan to change out air every 10 minutes.

The hard part is the vent sizing and layout.

OP - do you know where the vent duct is and how long it is (with elbow count)?

If the run is in the attic - you really should get up there and make sure there isn't something silly like a kink in the vent hose. A lot of contractors will use the vinyl wire hose (with or without insulation). OK for short runs, but it ***** for longer runs. Too much pressure drop and it may stall the fan which turns it into a white noise generator, not a fan. PVC pipe is best.

David C has some good ideas. Good idea to check the air gap under the door as well.
 
OP
I

ive

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 8, 2011
Messages
1,533
Location
Canada
Hi guys. Thanks for all the input. I've no idea what size the ducting is, I'll find out when I change the fan.

Friends, am I better off with 2 fans or one strong one?
 

ddawg16

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2008
Messages
21,005
Location
S. California
I would go one larger fan.

I have a Hunter fan/light combination. What I like is that it's super quiet...but when the light is on...so is the fan. Mine also has a night light built into it...makes it easier for the kids. We don't need to turn on the light at night when going in to just use the head.

I used an occupancy sensor on mine (since the wife and kids don't know what an off switch is). Additionally, because we also have a light over the sink...I tied the input for that switch to the occupancy sensor so when the fan gets turned off...so does that light.

One last point....how much space do you have under the door? If the gap is too small, you make not be getting enough air into the room.
 

RM209

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 17, 2009
Messages
892
Location
MD
tell her to leave the door cracked if possible. that will make all the difference

Agree; that's the easiest and quickest way to reduce the condensation. Yes, a stronger fan may help, but you've also got to get fresh air into the bathroom as the moist air is moved out.

RM209
 

larry4406

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 27, 2006
Messages
20,325
Location
Northern Virginia
Whatever fan you use, IF the ducting goes up into unconditioned space (i.e., attic) make sure it is insulated and use rigid duct (not flex). Slope it down hill to wall cap or if using a roof jack, down hill back to the fan housing (no low points in the duct).

In the houses my company builds in VA/MD, we have had condensation forming in the duct when they were uninsulated causing drywall damage.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom