Bathroom outlet

[mike93lx]

I am remodeling a bathroom and will be installing electric heat wire under the tile. Draw will be just 135 watts and i would like to add an additional outlet to the bathroom (already have one at the sink). Is it kosher to add a circuit to feed both the floor heat as well as the outlet? I am assuming so, but want to be sure. The outlet will be GFCI.

 

[rlitman]

I don't see a problem with that. In fact, it might be an advantage, as the GFCI can serve as the device that protects the floor heat (which would be connected to the load side).

But only 135W? That doesn't seem right to me. That's enough heat to warm an area the size of a small door mat.

 

[mike93lx]

I don't see a problem with that. In fact, it might be an advantage, as the GFCI can serve as the device that protects the floor heat (which would be connected to the load side).

But only 135W? That doesn't seem right to me. That's enough heat to warm an area the size of a small door mat.

Its only 10sq ft (about 40ft of wire). Bathroom is only 5x9 and i just need the areas in front of the toilet and vanity.

The thermostat apparently has GFCI protection already (Schluter Ditra Heat syatem)

 

[67carl]

I am remodeling a bathroom and will be installing electric heat wire under the tile. Draw will be just 135 watts and i would like to add an additional outlet to the bathroom (already have one at the sink). Is it kosher to add a circuit to feed both the floor heat as well as the outlet? I am assuming so, but want to be sure. The outlet will be GFCI.

When I did my in heat floor and researched the wiring it was all over the place on what should be done, even differing opinions from inspectors. The most consistent thing I found was to follow the manufacturers recommendation.

My floor heat wasn't going to take much, certainly not enough to require a dedicated circuit, but that's what the manufacturer recommended so I did it.

 

[TRWham]

Its only 10sq ft (about 40ft of wire). Bathroom is only 5x9 and i just need the areas in front of the toilet and vanity.

The thermostat apparently has GFCI protection already (Schluter Ditra Heat syatem)

It does have GFCI built in. Ditra Heat will max out at about 82F, so don't expect it to feel warm, it just will not feel cold. Be sure to install a back-up temp sensor, because you will eventually lose one.

 

[mike93lx]

It does have GFCI built in. Ditra Heat will max out at about 82F, so don't expect it to feel warm, it just will not feel cold. Be sure to install a back-up temp sensor, because you will eventually lose one.

Not cold is a good start. The extra outlet is to allow my wife to use a space heater when she also has one of her hair devices plugged in.

Thanks for the note on the temp sensor.there will be 2 by default. Are you saying put in 3?

 

[TRWham]

Not cold is a good start. The extra outlet is to allow my wife to use a space heater when she also has one of her hair devices plugged in.

Thanks for the note on the temp sensor.there will be 2 by default. Are you saying put in 3?

Just the 2 normally. It is also possible to use air temp to control Ditra Heat. I don't remember if the air temp sensor is integrated in the controller so you need to verify that.

 

[75gmck25]

I ran 12/3 for a MWBC to my bathroom area, and split it into two circuits for GFCI receptacles and for the Panasonic heat/fan combination. My wife really likes added heat in the bathroom, and I prefer that its up in the ceiling where there is no fire risk or any cords running across the floor.

I also used in-floor heat (Warmly Yours), and have had mixed feelings about whether it was worth it. It does not seem to create any warmth in my basement bath, but it does warm up the tile.

I turned floor heat off earlier this month because it didn't seem necessary in spring/summer, but then ice cold tile caught me by surprise the first time I walked into the bathroom. I turned the heat back on because 55 degree flooring is definitely not as comfortable as 72-75 degrees when you have bare feet.

Bruce

 

[mike93lx]

I ran 12/3 for a MWBC to my bathroom area, and split it into two circuits for GFCI receptacles and for the Panasonic heat/fan combination. My wife really likes added heat in the bathroom, and I prefer that its up in the ceiling where there is no fire risk or any cords running across the floor.

I also used in-floor heat (Warmly Yours), and have had mixed feelings about whether it was worth it. It does not seem to create any warmth in my basement bath, but it does warm up the tile.

I turned floor heat off earlier this month because it didn't seem necessary in spring/summer, but then ice cold tile caught me by surprise the first time I walked into the bathroom. I turned the heat back on because 55 degree flooring is definitely not as comfortable as 72-75 degrees when you have bare feet.

Bruce

were you expecting the in-floor electric to space heat? I'm just looking for warm tile.

in the basement, did you use a decoupling membrane? That would make a difference.

i thought about a MWBC, but my expectation is that the space heater will be used at the same time as a 1000+ watt hair dryer, so I didn't want to worry about any overloading.

Right now, a single circuit feeds lights, fans and outlets for two bathrooms. I'm switching it so a dedicated circuit for the fans/lights between both bathrooms, a circuit for each bathroom's main outlet, plus a circuit for the floor heat/secondary outlet in the master.

My daughter is young, but I'm planning for two hair dryers running at the same time in the future. the walls are open now, so its easy to upgrade.

 

[mike93lx]

Just the 2 normally. It is also possible to use air temp to control Ditra Heat. I don't remember if the air temp sensor is integrated in the controller so you need to verify that.

ok, that's what I thought. I hadn't seen anywhere recommending more than the two sensors.

 

[MikeF2316]

A friend of mine put electric heat under a laminate floor in a TV room in his basement. He didn't have trouble with his one sensor, after a few years his control melted. By then the company was out of business, so he had to get one of those add on controls. It works fairly well, but he (his wife) has to keep adjusting it. So I guess the lesson here is make sure you buy from a company that's going to be around for a while.

 

[mike93lx]

A friend of mine put electric heat under a laminate floor in a TV room in his basement. He didn't have trouble with his one sensor, after a few years his control melted. By then the company was out of business, so he had to get one of those add on controls. It works fairly well, but he (his wife) has to keep adjusting it. So I guess the lesson here is make sure you buy from a company that's going to be around for a while.

I think i am good to go with Schluter

 

[checkthisout]

were you expecting the in-floor electric to space heat? I'm just looking for warm tile.

in the basement, did you use a decoupling membrane? That would make a difference.

i thought about a MWBC, but my expectation is that the space heater will be used at the same time as a 1000+ watt hair dryer, so I didn't want to worry about any overloading.

Right now, a single circuit feeds lights, fans and outlets for two bathrooms. I'm switching it so a dedicated circuit for the fans/lights between both bathrooms, a circuit for each bathroom's main outlet, plus a circuit for the floor heat/secondary outlet in the master.

My daughter is young, but I'm planning for two hair dryers running at the same time in the future. the walls are open now, so its easy to upgrade.

Yes. This is good. Perfect, actually. Code is code so I assume you know it.

Figure an outlet is 1500 watts which is what a hairdryer draws. You don't want a daughter and mother or 2 daughters popping breakers every morning.

So a dedicated circuit for each bathroom outlet plus a few hundred watts is really good coupled with the lighting on a separate circuit as needed is exactly what you want.

I think you're good.