bathroom sink drain installation

[MerlinsBeard]

I'm replacing the sink faucet and drain in the bathroom and as a first timer I ran into confusion in the instructions. It's a Moen Banbury faucet with the push spring loaded drain. I got the faucet replaced with no issues, but running into some confusion about installing the new drain (the original had a pull-stop). I have the sink all cleaned up, and ready for the new drain install.

The instructions have a section called tools needed that shows a plumbers putty container, but when it comes to the actual install, there is a thin gasket that seats between the plastic drain pipe assembly and the sink hole and the instructions say to use that gasket with no reference to plumbers putty.

I've seen a few remarks that the customer discarded the gasket to use plumbers putty for certain sink types (mine is porcelain), and there were a couple small complaints in the review section for leaks with the gasket.

There is also a kind of stiff clear plastic ring around the sink hole that wasn't really talked about in the instructions. I don't think that it's an issue, but is someone knew what it's for, that would be swell.

It makes sense to use the putty for when the drain pipe assembly is metal, but I've seen some comments about not using plumbers putty on certain types of plastic (ABS and CPVC). The drain assembly for the Moen Banbury is plastic, but I'm fairly sure it's not ABS or CPVC. I also see that there is stain-free plumbers putty from Oatey with the white and blue label on the container. The original putty that was cleaned out from the old sink faucet was the standard color.

Right now I'm leaning towards discarding the gasket and using the stain-free plumbers putty for this install. Am I missing something important that could end up causing issues down the road? I've heard about running hot water to perhaps make the putty less likely to have a defect that could turn into a crack. This is my first drain install, so appreciate any insight.

 

[rlitman]

I still use putty on stainless kitchen sinks (where the metal rim can sit flusher with a thinner layer of putty under it), but on lavatories (that have more of a countersunk hole) I've had better luck with the thin silicone gaskets, so long as the drain hole isn't misshapen. Porcelain can warp a little when fired, and the gasket won't work well if the warpage is too much, but I guess I've gotten lucky with flat porcelain sinks.

Stiff clear plastic ring around the sink hole? Are you talking about something attached to the sink, or part of the drain kit?

 

[MerlinsBeard]

I still use putty on stainless kitchen sinks (where the metal rim can sit flusher with a thinner layer of putty under it), but on lavatories (that have more of a countersunk hole) I've had better luck with the thin silicone gaskets, so long as the drain hole isn't misshapen. Porcelain can warp a little when fired, and the gasket won't work well if the warpage is too much, but I guess I've gotten lucky with flat porcelain sinks.

Stiff clear plastic ring around the sink hole? Are you talking about something attached to the sink, or part of the drain kit?

It's not part of the drain kit, it's directly attached to the sink hole.

The "clear plastic ring" feels kind of like the same material used to bind cans of soda together (except it's completely transparent), where half of it is strongly adhered to the recessed portion in the sink hole, and the other half is protruding out from the sink hole (maybe 1/8"). The material is pretty durable, using hand force to pinch and pull on it is not enough to tear or peel it out. The drain pipe assembly would push the plastic down into the top part of the sink hole but would not be long enough to go into the overflow cavity.

I can take a picture when I get home. I don't know if this is something that should have been removed as part of the original install, or if these sink hole "protectors" are standard issue. The sink top is from around 2010-2011.

 

[MerlinsBeard]

Here is the plastic around the sink hole for reference.

 

[housewolf]

Here is the plastic around the sink hole for reference.

I’ve never seen a lav with that plastic around it like that (started Plg in 1978). I’d be tempted to remove it but I’m hesitant to suggest that to someone else. Is it a new lav? Directions? I’d still probably toss it but again… that’s me. Generally you put putty between the flange on the drain & china or SS then on the bottom you should have a rubber gasket that fits against the basin with a plastic or cardboard washer between the rubber and the nut.

 

[Bunsen Honeydew]

Do you suppose it could be intended as a dam to block plumbers putty from entering the overflow?
Not that I've ever seen that before, but its the only guess I can come up with.

 

[Roman88]

I’ve never seen a lav with that plastic around it like that (started Plg in 1978). I’d be tempted to remove it but I’m hesitant to suggest that to someone else. Is it a new lav? Directions? I’d still probably toss it but again… that’s me. Generally you put putty between the flange on the drain & china or SS then on the bottom you should have a rubber gasket that fits against the basin with a plastic or cardboard washer between the rubber and the nut.

Thanks everyone for your input. Since this is my first time doing a sink drain install, I'm still unsure whether I should remove the clear plastic ring or leave it in place. It looks like it was factory-installed and not part of the drain kit.

Do you think using stain-free plumber’s putty directly on that plastic edge (instead of using the thin gasket) could cause long-term issues like leaks or cracks?

Also, does anyone know if that plastic ring serves a sealing purpose or if it’s just a protective insert for the sink hole?

 

[MerlinsBeard]

Thanks everyone for your input. Since this is my first time doing a sink drain install, I'm still unsure whether I should remove the clear plastic ring or leave it in place. It looks like it was factory-installed and not part of the drain kit.

Do you think using stain-free plumber’s putty directly on that plastic edge (instead of using the thin gasket) could cause long-term issues like leaks or cracks?

Also, does anyone know if that plastic ring serves a sealing purpose or if it’s just a protective insert for the sink hole?

On the original sink drain that I'm replacing which had a metal flange and drain pipe assembly that used plumbers putty, and the original install would have had that clear plastic ring which was leak free for at least the 14 years of service (till I inadvertently busted the faucet).

I don't think the plastic ring is likely a big deal because the seal should be between the drain pipe flange and the sink. Inserting the drain pipe assembly should push that ring flush against the sink hole. What I don't know is whether there will be a reaction between the plastic in the drain assembly and the plumbers putty that could cause a material issue in the putty that results in a leak down the road.

Material science is not really my thing, so knowing whether to use the provided gasket or stain-free plumbers putty is not clear from the installation instructions.

 

[mikedodge]

When I replaced the drain on ours there was just the gasket at the underside. The original had a gasket or silicone or something under the chrome ring at the top. I put a bit of plumbers putty around that since I didn't have anything else.

 

[Hank11]

It is truly amazing that a manufacturer can ship a product without instructions that are clear and complete.

Will the new drain parts go through the little plastic part? Does it fit well assembled that way? Unless it s beautiful, artful fit, I vote for putty.

 

[yatg]

It is truly amazing that a manufacturer can ship a product without instructions that are clear and complete.

Oh please, most of the time you get pictograms and have to figure it out yourself anyway.

 

[MerlinsBeard]

I did get a response back from the manufacturer that using sealant is viable instead of the thin gasket they provided, but they put the type of sealant needed based on the sink material. I think I'm just going to go with stain-free plumber's putty since it was very likely plumbers putty (definitely not silicone) that was used with the old metal flange.

 

[rlitman]

... I think I'm just going to go with stain-free plumber's putty since it was very likely plumbers putty (definitely not silicone) that was used with the old metal flange.

That should be fine. Silicone is never acceptable on a drain!

 

[Hank11]

Oh please, most of the time you get pictograms and have to figure it out yourself anyway.

It doesn’t have to be this way. Really.

 

[katsarosm]

I think the safest rule is to do what the manufacturer drew, especially when the drain body is plastic and the sink is porcelain. The "put plumber's putty on everything" advice comes from older metal flanges; modern kits ship the right gasket and expect a clean surface and moderate clamp load. If a foreign part, like that clear ring, sits under the flange, the seal will print to the ring instead of the sink and a slow leak appears a week later. Strip to porcelain, use the Moen gasket, keep the flange from rotating as you tighten, and test with a full bowl before you push the vanity back.

If you get even a hint of damp at the rim after that, it's time to let a pro finish and warranty the seal. I'm from Oregon and can recommend a quick service call from Captain Rooter, who will reseat it, show you what went wrong, and you can move on to the fun parts of the remodel