Bathroom vent in pole building question.

[Jbullfrog]

I'm working on a toilet and sinks for the shop. My builinding was a grain flat storage, so it has 2 8' long x 12" wide ridge vents. I'm running a 2" vent up to the roof, but don't want to deal with sealing a 3" stack through the steel. Do I have to run the vent through the roof or could I just stub it up into a ridge vent?

5" line outside to septic, 4" under floor with 3" for toilet in floor and 2" for vanity, shop sink, and maybe a washing machine. No shower, as I have a mud room 100 yards in the house.

 

[tyjoja]

If not being inspected it should work just fine, and 2" vent should cover all your fixtures just fine also.

 

[green.bubbly]

On my metal building, code here allows to exit the side wall and then turn up about a foot above the eave.

 

[Jbullfrog]

On my metal building, code here allows to exit the side wall and then turn up about a foot above the eave.

I looked at that, but there is a 16' wide slider on the side that my bathroom is on.

It doesn't have to be inspected now, but if it gets zoned as a business, I want it done so it won't be an issue.

 

[Highbeam]

You could make it ready to push through the ceiling so that if in the future you need to you could install the proper roof jack.

They make these little vents called studor vents that are really just air admittance valves for the end of plumbing runs that need ventilation but can't be run to the ceiling such as a sink in an island in the kitchen. I've never seen one on the main stack though.

Where the shop ties into the septic, does that pipe continue to the house? With a main vent stack?

The septic needs to be able to breathe in and out. The plumbing needs to only vent into the pipe to allow the slug of wastewater to run to the septic.

 

[Jbullfrog]

You could make it ready to push through the ceiling so that if in the future you need to you could install the proper roof jack.

They make these little vents called studor vents that are really just air admittance valves for the end of plumbing runs that need ventilation but can't be run to the ceiling such as a sink in an island in the kitchen. I've never seen one on the main stack though.

Where the shop ties into the septic, does that pipe continue to the house? With a main vent stack?

The septic needs to be able to breathe in and out. The plumbing needs to only vent into the pipe to allow the slug of wastewater to run to the septic.

Yes, there is a stack at the house. We y-ed into the clean-out on the line to the house in the yard. The shop line is 112' of 5" and the line to the basement is probably that far as well.

I have the vent put together up to the ridge and plan on not glueing the joints against the roof so I could go directly out with it if needed down the road. Everything from the ceiling down is mounted and glued currently.

 

[krapie]

This is one of those do it right the first time, or pay the consequenses down the road. BTDT! I 'did' what you are thinking, and 5 years later punched a hole to correct it. I also had to fix the ceiling drywall damage and replace a portion of the insulation.

Here is what happens. I live in NE Indiana, similar climate. During the colder months the cold metal will attract the moisture from the stack, and ice will form on the bottom of the metal roof. Sunlight heats the metal and ice turns to water and falls on insulation. Tomorrow, the process repeats, again and again and again. Until saturation of insulation then drywall occurs.

In my case, it took about five years for the wet mark to appear on the ceiling, but a quick trip to the attic revealed the whole mess. Mine was a half bath, used maybe once a week, the two full bathrooms i vented thru the roof during construction and have had no problems.

 

[6768rogues]

I have a bathroom in my metal building and it has an air admittance valve within the building. Lowes and similar stores have them.

 

[madstat]

If it were me I would just bite the bullet size up to 3" and run through the roof. With typical asphalt shingle over osb sheathing this is a quick job but I understand the not wanting to cut and seal with a metal roof.

Next option would be to just place the Air admittance valve at the end of the 2" which would at least keep sewer gas out of the attic. My plumbing inspector allowed this for my job where I wasn't able to go through the roof because it was a small first floor addition and anything through the roof would be in close proximity to second floor windows.

 

[Sureshot]

I have something similar and tried several air admittance valves but it never worked right. I ended up putting a 2" line up inside the wall and out the side about 8' up a 16' wall. I put an elbow on pointing down and install a 1' piece of pipe with no glue to keep birds from trying to use it as a nesting spot. I have to pull the pipe in winter as it collects condensation and freezes off.

I had one of the air entry valves in a pat house and it worked fine there.

 

[Highbeam]

In any case, I would not leave an open ended pipe in the attic. Funky smelling, wet, and explosive gasses could be venting into the attic.

Since your house has an open stack, any septic tank pressures will be ventilated. This means that all other vents simply need to allow air into the system so air admittance valves are sufficient.

 

[hdonlybob]

Punch the hole thru the roof now.
Go to Lowes or some other store and buy one of the flashing's that has a stretchable rubber boot on the top...stretch it over, make a small collar on the top and use a large radiator hose type clamp. It will NOT leak, and can move with the winter/summer expansion.
A good pop rivet job and a REASONABLE amount of good caulk will seal it very nicely....Key is to cut the hole bigger than the vent pipe.
Good luck,
Cheers......