hey guys, sanity check please..... construction of my 24'x50' (stick built) shop is just about done and i am doing the insulation and corrugated tin interior panels myself. My question is do i use faced or unfaced wall batts? A few construction details: The shop will have an a/c unit (and heat), Tyvek is wrapped under the hardi board panels on the exterior and as mentioned i will use tin wall panels. Located in south Louisiana so heat and humidity is high. Thanks for any help!
Batt insulation - faced or unfaced question
- Thread starter Rebird
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iowa4x4dieselman
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The ones with the paper face will be easier to secure to the walls, as without the "flange" how would you secure them to the wall unless you put up a sheet of plastic or something over the whole wall? 
rakane
Well-known member
I live in Oregon so completley different environment. I can share that the cost for batts with paper face on my 40 x 60 shop was 2K cheaper than unfaced batts covered with FSK paper. After reading about the thermal benefits of FSK, you might consider it.
Meanwhile is a 30' Grady White.
Meanwhile is a 30' Grady White.
The ones with the paper face will be easier to secure to the walls, as without the "flange" how would you secure them to the wall unless you put up a sheet of plastic or something over the whole wall?
i guess i was concerned about the humidity getting trapped in the wall...i should have specified. My plan is to run 1"x4" wood strips perpendicular to the studs so i can secure my vertical corrugated panels..... the strips should hold the insulation in the studs i would imagine.
I definitely agree the backing on the batt insulation would be easier to install.... i just don't want to trap humidity within the wall. Just don't want to make a big mistake, lol. Thanks!
Thanks rakane, i will research FSK.
Leaflessshadetree
Well-known member
Up north we put vapor barrier on the indoor side of the walls. I may be wrong but think it goes on the outside in the south.
I've used faced and unfaced batts. IMO the unfaced was easier and faster to install (just press in place) then staple a vapor barrier over it. Seemed to use fewer staples as well.
I've used faced and unfaced batts. IMO the unfaced was easier and faster to install (just press in place) then staple a vapor barrier over it. Seemed to use fewer staples as well.
matt_i
Well-known member
Take a look at Roxul. Not saying its right for you but its higher R value, it won't harbor organic growth like fiberglass will, completely fireproof. Slight cost penalty and probably special order thru Home Depot or Lowes. There are also competitor products from OWens Corning as well.
Having "fitted" both I really like the stone wool better, its so much easier to fill a cavity without overcompressing it. It saws with something about like a bread knife.
Having "fitted" both I really like the stone wool better, its so much easier to fill a cavity without overcompressing it. It saws with something about like a bread knife.
I would suggest doing some research at this free expert source at Building Science.com Because I am new I had to remove the link to post. No affiliation to them, but reference their publications.
If you are primarily cooling in your climate the vapor retarder (kraft face if that is what you are using) would be on the outside face of the studs. You will need some form of a vapor retarder. I like the ROXUL insulation for the reasons stated above, but it has a lower R value. Building Science Corp has a lot of good guidance info if you take the time to sift through. Look under the Guidance tab and for exterior wall application. You can also look at other projects nearby under construction but I'd do the research.
If you are primarily cooling in your climate the vapor retarder (kraft face if that is what you are using) would be on the outside face of the studs. You will need some form of a vapor retarder. I like the ROXUL insulation for the reasons stated above, but it has a lower R value. Building Science Corp has a lot of good guidance info if you take the time to sift through. Look under the Guidance tab and for exterior wall application. You can also look at other projects nearby under construction but I'd do the research.
matt_i
Well-known member
I snipped this because I'm trying to learn, the published R value on Roxul 2x6 is R23 and fiberglass is R19 to R21. What is telling you that its lower?
Dzlpete
Well-known member
GJuny, I don’t know where you are reading, but Roxul inch for inch is and always has been higher R-value than fiberglass. Maybe there was a typo.
DieselNut88
Well-known member
I would use unfaced because you have house wrap on the outside.
I can look at local construction and just copy it.... does it matter that i'm installing corrugated tin for the interior walls versus sheet rock? They are building homes in my neighborhood but using sheet rock. Thanks for the info guys!
Evilunclegrimace
Well-known member
Painted sheet rock is a vapor barrier BUT only if the ALL of the baseboard AND windows are properly detailed, Corrugated tin will allow air to pass trough. This should help. http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/vapor-retarders-and-vapor-barriers
Slowgsr
Well-known member
Up here we use breathable exterior house wrap. Insulate, then poly vapour barrier on the inside. Tuck tape all interior penetration.
Air sealing is the most important imo. I also always drywall and tape 3 coats. Use a vinyl baseboard, silicone to the floor, and glued to the wall.
I used to be sold on roxul until I soundproofed my homes floor, and looked at lab tests comparing roxul to acoustic fiberglass, not to mention roxul is x2 the cost.
Air sealing is the most important imo. I also always drywall and tape 3 coats. Use a vinyl baseboard, silicone to the floor, and glued to the wall.
I used to be sold on roxul until I soundproofed my homes floor, and looked at lab tests comparing roxul to acoustic fiberglass, not to mention roxul is x2 the cost.