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Battery cable crimper

Carquest

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I intend to begin making golf cart battery cables instead of buying them assembled. Need suggestions on a crimper that will do at least 6 gauge, and preferably 4 gauge also, that is fairly compact in size. I already own a big set of crimpers, about the size of 30 inch bolt cutters, to do 2/0 and 4/0 cables, but want something a little easier to use. Thanks in advance for your help
 
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Infinia

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I don't crimp battery cables ever, I solder the terminals on then heat shrink afterwards.

NO this isn't advisable. Q. how many electricians and industrial techs do you see with soldering equipment? A. yup none:lol_hitti


The Harbor Freight tool gets bad reviews from a Marine cabling expert. AFAIK he said the dies are all marked wrong not the real sizes, I reckon if you play with it enough you might work it all out, but then the time and materials invested maybe more than the right tool.
 
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scissorman

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NO this isn't advisable. Q. how many electricians and industrial techs do you see with soldering equipment? A. yup none:lol_hitti

Every last one of them I've seen solder. I deal with battery cables every day and NEVER have had a problem with a soldered cable. I have seen many failed crimped connections though.
 

theoldwizard1

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Every last one of them I've seen solder. I deal with battery cables every day and NEVER have had a problem with a soldered cable. I have seen many failed crimped connections though.

Soldering large connectors on to a cable requires a vise, torch, flux and skill.

Joe Average has a better chance making a GOOD crimped connection, even with a hammer crimper (assuming he starts with good quality ends of the CORRECT SIZE) then getting a solder connection done right the first 3 or 4 times.
 

Infinia

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IDK of any safety or professional orgs that promote soldering lugs over crimp.\
Soldering over a crimped connection is also a big no-no! Using intuition leads you down the wrong path here, its doubly bad.

DIY folks that resort to soldering high current connections, because the "right crimping tools" are a big unknown. . yeah the tools can be expensive, but they work reliable/safe considering the regular lunkheads that use them. E.g. Industry wants "skill" taken out of the equation.
Soldering joints has so many variables involved, it's not funny. Solder lugs margin for catastrophic fail is proportional to higher current levels. Remember solder melts at low temp further increasing resistance, a run-away condition is often the case.
 
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isb cornbinder

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I, like so many others am not an expert, with experience in making cable crimps. The cable and lug supply store on Boundary Road has great success with crimping only, no solder. I bought the pictured tool from them because it is one that they use.
Rather than beating the crimper to pieces, I used an Arbour press to operate the crimper. I did heat-shrink the finished connections.
If a person is using solder and a flux, it is very important to neutralise the flux or there may be future corrosion.
 

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Carquest

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Unfortunately, I am Joe Average, which is why i wanted to crimp instead of solder, plus I think crimping is quicker from a time perspective. Won't hurt me to get some solder and learn how to do it that way though.....
 

All

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I would be very concerned about high current battery cables being soldered.

The starter on my pickup requires two 850 CCA batteries minimum, to over come the higher compression ratio of the diesel engine. Peak inrush current on initial start can routinely exceed 1,000 amps. The battery environment is a corrosive one, and invariably there are dissimilar metals in a battery clamp, between the lead post, the zinc steel battery bolt, and the tinplated copper terminal. As corrosion increases, so doth resistance, and as resistance increases, so doth temperature when that 1,000 amps of juice is forcing it's way through the resistance.

This is the environment that relatively low temperature solder must live in, at the battery. Can anyone think of a single OEM car or truck manufacturer that solders the high current battery cables, either at the battery, or the starter, or even the starter relay? I can't think of any.
 

Infinia

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Suppliers of batteries and/or copper wire will often have the means to help you cut and crimp your stuff. Infact you can buy premade cables from ppl for less than gathering all the things you need to do it right. Knowing there are so many choices and supplies, that the premade cable folks have done the homework / learning curve for you! A little looking will reveal Ebay is filled with bogus supplies to be sold the uniformed DIYers. IMO Some things makes sense for the Joe Average gamer to take on, sorry sadly this just isn't one of them.
 
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pi_guy

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NO this isn't advisable. Q. how many electricians and industrial techs do you see with soldering equipment? A. yup none:lol_hitti


The Harbor Freight tool gets bad reviews from a Marine cabling expert. AFAIK he said the dies are all marked wrong not the real sizes, I reckon if you play with it enough you might work it all out, but then the time and materials invested maybe more than the right tool.

Some things require soldering not cables to connectors. Circuit boards for example.

I have many crimpers not all work in every situation. Including the HF one which has been out for years. It has issues but if you test and waste a connector or two you can get reasonable results from it. Some times a v block and a spotting punch works great.
I should lay out all my crimpers and post a image but that will not happen till after ski season.
 

MrGiggles

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I would be very concerned about high current battery cables being soldered.

The starter on my pickup requires two 850 CCA batteries minimum, to over come the higher compression ratio of the diesel engine. Peak inrush current on initial start can routinely exceed 1,000 amps. The battery environment is a corrosive one, and invariably there are dissimilar metals in a battery clamp, between the lead post, the zinc steel battery bolt, and the tinplated copper terminal. As corrosion increases, so doth resistance, and as resistance increases, so doth temperature when that 1,000 amps of juice is forcing it's way through the resistance.

This is the environment that relatively low temperature solder must live in, at the battery. Can anyone think of a single OEM car or truck manufacturer that solders the high current battery cables, either at the battery, or the starter, or even the starter relay? I can't think of any.

I think that has more to do with the fact that you can't build a machine that can economically punch out thousands of soldered battery cables per hour, while that is easily achievable with crimps.

If your cables are even getting hot to the touch, you have a problem. At no point should they ever get hot enough to melt the solder.

I've seen guys solder battery terminals on heavy equipment all the time. Those batteries are 2000+ CCA.
 

Infinia

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I've seen guys solder battery terminals on heavy equipment all the time. Those batteries are 2000+ CCA.

I call Baloney on this.
If you have seen this even just once you should report it to someone responsible, this is plain wrong and even dangerous. Find me one industry guide that suggests this a reliable procedure.
"all the time"? Why doesnt the shop have a budget to add a crimp tool to do a job the right way. LoL maybe non-union hack job shop perhaps, I wonder who, what, and why. Somebody's getting the short end of the stick on training and tools.
edit >Infact it has probably cost somebody more from misdiagnosing a cable and replacing good batteries than having a better / reliable connection via proper tooling.
 
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MrGiggles

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I call Baloney on this.
If you have seen this even just once you should report it to someone responsible, this is plain wrong and even dangerous. Find me one industry guide that suggests this a reliable procedure.
"all the time"? Why doesnt the shop have a budget to add a crimp tool to do a job the right way. LoL maybe non-union hack job shop perhaps, I wonder who, what, and why. Somebody's getting the short end of the stick on training and tools.
edit >Infact it has probably cost somebody more from misdiagnosing a cable and replacing good batteries than having a better / reliable connection via proper tooling.

Geez, you act like it will burst into flames the moment you turn the key.

Stephen Cox has a video on YouTube that goes through the process on a Cat track loader.

Steve Meade has done it hundreds of times on high current audio systems, again with a video on the process. His work is the farthest thing from a hack job. His channel is Meade916, if you care to see.
 

kctyphoon

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I'll admit I'm no exert on this, but I've never owned a car that came with soldered battery cables. I can tell you that power lines are crimped, not soldered.. as far not being "able" to build a machine that could economically solder cables together, I'm pretty sure if there was a need, one would exist..

I think the question should be, what advantage does soldering give to merit the extra time and hassle? I can't really see one..
 

MrGiggles

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I'll admit I'm no exert on this, but I've never owned a car that came with soldered battery cables. I can tell you that power lines are crimped, not soldered.. as far not being "able" to build a machine that could economically solder cables together, I'm pretty sure if there was a need, one would exist..

I think the question should be, what advantage does soldering give to merit the extra time and hassle? I can't really see one..

Yes, a machine could be made, but I don't see it as economical to go through the extra steps (heat, flux, solder), when it can be done in one (smash).

I don't think there is any question that a properly done crimp is better than solder, but that does not make soldering a hack job. Worth the time and hassle, not usually, but sometimes you don't have room to swing a hammer for the impact crimpers, and not everyone has a hydraulic crimper, but we all have a propane torch laying around.
 

mikegt4

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I decided to get a good crimper after constantly replacing the local auto parts store Chicom battery cables on all my vehicles and tractors. I need enough battery cables that a good crimper was a viable investment.

I bought a FTZ # 94284 crimper and can say that it produces outstanding high quality crimps. Expensive, yes but worth it if you want really good results. I am fortunate enough to have a local supplier with all the high quality end fittings and shrink tubing with adhesive.

I found this place to have the best price (and they were fast shippers as well) at the time of my purchase.
http://www.kljack.com/default.aspx?page=item+detail&itemcode=ET50116&catlist=260

A good read if you what to make your own cables.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/battery_cables
 

WWheeler

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Whenever I have done lugs/terminals, I've always crimped, soldered and heatshrinked.

That's just the way I was shown by my neighbor when I was just a teen who was an installer at a very high-end car stereo/alarm shop when he did the 2/0 cables to an amp for me. I've done many many like that in the 30 yrs since for replacing a terminal or a lug for stereos, winches, making my own heavy duty jumper cables from welding cable, etc. I get a good crimp for a good tight connection and then some propane and solder covered with heatshrink just to make it permanent and trouble/corrosion-free forever. Once and done.

That's the way I taught my boys and nephews also. I honestly wouldn't even consider doing it any other way.
 
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sgtmac

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IMHO: I would choose which terminals you want to you and get the terminal manufacturers recommendation on the proper crimped. That way you ensure you are getting a correct crimp.
 

kctyphoon

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What's the down side to crimping then? I'm open to listening to a legitimate point, but it's hard to claim that it wouldn't be strong when winch lines are crimped together, and hard to say it's a better connection when the industry standard is crimping.. better just because? Maybe - but we can make a spoon out of titanium and it won't mean anyone will eat better..

I can see how someone might do it just because they have the torch, and don't have the proper tool to make a solid crimp, but correctly done - what's the REASON for soldering over a crimper?
 

gearhead1

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I have one of those crimpers you hit with a hammer for making battery cables for my demolition derby cars.

How do you solder a 2 gauge wire terminal and not melt the insulation? I tried soldering, and once it got hot enough to melt the solder, the insulation would melt. So I went with heat shrink and the hammer crimpers, seems to work fine even when trying to start an engine that ran without water its way hotter than normal.
 

sgtmac

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Battery terminal connection options:
1: Crimp ..... Preferred
2: Solder ....... Good
3: Crimp and Solder ....... Acceptable
4: Electrical tape ....... Freakin Awesome... Refer to image.
 

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MrGiggles

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What's the down side to crimping then? I'm open to listening to a legitimate point, but it's hard to claim that it wouldn't be strong when winch lines are crimped together, and hard to say it's a better connection when the industry standard is crimping.. better just because? Maybe - but we can make a spoon out of titanium and it won't mean anyone will eat better..

I can see how someone might do it just because they have the torch, and don't have the proper tool to make a solid crimp, but correctly done - what's the REASON for soldering over a crimper?

A good read.

http://electronics.stackexchange.co...-wire-or-soldered-wire-carry-a-current-better

The methods I have seen involve heating the terminal, not the wire, to get away from burning the insulation.
 
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Schurkey

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The trick is finding decent battery cable ends.

I went friggin' nuts trying to find parts to make side-terminal cables to suit GM side-terminal "sealed" battery connections.

Best I could find is the modern, non-sealed plastic covers, and the copper crimp-to-fit connectors. They're advertised for use with "0" gauge cables.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aww-500337
AWW-500337_ml.jpg
 

hangfirew8

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I, like so many others am not an expert, with experience in making cable crimps. The cable and lug supply store on Boundary Road has great success with crimping only, no solder. I bought the pictured tool from them because it is one that they use.
Rather than beating the crimper to pieces, I used an Arbour press to operate the crimper. I did heat-shrink the finished connections.
If a person is using solder and a flux, it is very important to neutralise the flux or there may be future corrosion.

I have the same unit from EZ Red, but it is sold under different brand names. I expected a red one when I ordered it from the brand name, but mine is blue, too.

Agree don't use a hammer. Besides the arbor press, another option is to use the tool in a large vise.
 

Danglerb

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Soldering is the cheapest method and is used in virtually all low cost low current applications. Weaknesses include higher resistance, melting at high currents, wires breaking from solder wicked into a cable so it won't flex, and difficulty in testing long term quality. Crimps make close to a welded quality connection with none of those issues.
 

Infinia

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Steve Meade has done it hundreds of times on high current audio systems, again with a video on the process. His work is the farthest thing from a hack job. His channel is Meade916, if you care to see.
lets throw away all industry research and revert to a few Utoob videos? OK that makes sense.
ohh I feel I woke up in a movie.
 
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kblee27

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Crimping vs soldering, always a contentious subject.

I worked with electronics, almost everything is soldered. That's bcuz of small size wires.

But when it comes to large wires and connectors, I still think crimping is the correct way.
All the electrical and electronics equipment I worked with that requires large cables and batteries are professionally crimped. I don't see anyone soldering it.
 

Infinia

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Crimping vs soldering, always a contentious subject.
.
contentious? only in the internet forums.
You want certifications from any professional organizations , none that I know allow them to be soldered including micro current ones. Heck even crappy ATX PS have crimps on safety grounds.
 
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