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Battery charger
- Thread starter smz
- Start date
I fix em! I have an old Christy battery charger that had some funky low tech reverse polarity protection circuitry in it that may have worked well back in 1990 but didnt work now. Even with schematics it didnt show me what they used for the Ballast light bulbs it used to load a transistor (I believe).
I tore out all that circuitry and just went straight from the transformer diode output to the cables nad so far its worked well.
I tore out all that circuitry and just went straight from the transformer diode output to the cables nad so far its worked well.
They are repairable. I have an old Sears 10A auto/manual. I replaced the auto/manual selector switch and the ammeter with inexpensive stuff from ebay and the carry handle with one of those renovable carry straps that come with car batteries. The joke is the original 15 Amp meter was junk and I got a pair of almost mint Simpson meters fot 8 bucks. They have a current new list of $90 so I even have a spare. The meter is worth more than the charger. I like your name. I had a Challenger T/A, the Dodge version of the AAR Cuda.I fix em! I have an old Christy battery charger that had some funky low tech reverse polarity protection circuitry in it that may have worked well back in 1990 but didnt work now. Even with schematics it didnt show me what they used for the Ballast light bulbs it used to load a transistor (I believe).
I tore out all that circuitry and just went straight from the transformer diode output to the cables nad so far its worked well.
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Old ones are simple, transformer, bridge rectifier, misc wiring to go bad. Everybody should have one as the new units won't charge a totally dead battery. Mine is Western Auto.
Tons of the new smart style were returned as defective because the owners can't read, they won't charge a dead battery. Mine is Schumacher and still works great if not better than new models, but plenty of signs of wear and tear.
Many of the new ones depend on a fan for cooling, and fans go bad, but are easily replaced with long life ball bearing types.
BTW no reason for a good quality modern switchmode type to be large or heavy or expensive they are mostly PC power supplies with less circuitry.
Tons of the new smart style were returned as defective because the owners can't read, they won't charge a dead battery. Mine is Schumacher and still works great if not better than new models, but plenty of signs of wear and tear.
Many of the new ones depend on a fan for cooling, and fans go bad, but are easily replaced with long life ball bearing types.
BTW no reason for a good quality modern switchmode type to be large or heavy or expensive they are mostly PC power supplies with less circuitry.
If the fan quit and the charger stopped working. I think getting it working again would take more than fixing the fan. The semiconductors it was supposed to keep cool undoubtedly let out the magic smoke.Old ones are simple, transformer, bridge rectifier, misc wiring to go bad. Everybody should have one as the new units won't charge a totally dead battery. Mine is Western Auto.
Tons of the new smart style were returned as defective because the owners can't read, they won't charge a dead battery. Mine is Schumacher and still works great if not better than new models, but plenty of signs of wear and tear.
Many of the new ones depend on a fan for cooling, and fans go bad, but are easily replaced with long life ball bearing types.
BTW no reason for a good quality modern switchmode type to be large or heavy or expensive they are mostly PC power supplies with less circuitry.
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If the fan quit and the charger stopped working. I think getting it working again would take more than fixing the fan. The semiconductors it was supposed to keep cool undoubtedly let out the magic smoke.
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Yes and no, depends on the design and whether or not it senses temperature and shuts down or reduces power. With switch mode supplies what seems to fail are the capacitors most of the time and again depending on the design that might not kill it, just wound it. My fan has be flaky for years but it still puts out close to 20 amps even on a hot day, I have measured the 75 amp start mode, but that never seemed that practical anyway.
Buckaroo5
Well-known member
Did some searches but didn’t come up with much. Does anybody make a decent 2/10/50 battery charger? All the shumacher,sears, century ones make it just out of warranty and then quit charging for me. Probably went through 5 over the last few years.
I recently got 2/10/20 Pro-Logix smart charger made by Clore. Very versatile - I have been using it all winter and like it a lot. Although Clore says not for use as a power source when reflashing your ECM, lots of folks do and I intend to use it that way as well.
https://cloreautomotive.com/product/pl2320/
Buckaroo
i'm in the fix camp as well. I think I posted this before, but one thing you can do that is pretty easy is add a small fan in the case to cool it down. it will keep the PCB and diodes cooler and last much longer.
I use a small computer cpu fan, and just tap off the 6v dc line inside the case for power. mount the fan inside on the back of the case with a couple screws where it is vented.
also the diodes can get crusty and not make good contact on the heatsink from battery acid, getting wet outside, etc. I usually replace the whole setup with a bridge rectifier I used to get for $3 or so at radio shack, but now you'll have to order one somewhere online. I usually use the 30 amp ones, and wire it in on the old heatsink.
finally, the little breaker that pops if it gets too hot often gets corroded and will not make good contact making you think the whole thing is dead. you can replace it with a manually resettable breaker, or just bypass it (but you'll want to keep an eye on it and not leave it unattended). if you bypass it, I usually mark with a paint pen the unit "has no breaker" so I know to not leave it on without being around.
I use a small computer cpu fan, and just tap off the 6v dc line inside the case for power. mount the fan inside on the back of the case with a couple screws where it is vented.
also the diodes can get crusty and not make good contact on the heatsink from battery acid, getting wet outside, etc. I usually replace the whole setup with a bridge rectifier I used to get for $3 or so at radio shack, but now you'll have to order one somewhere online. I usually use the 30 amp ones, and wire it in on the old heatsink.
finally, the little breaker that pops if it gets too hot often gets corroded and will not make good contact making you think the whole thing is dead. you can replace it with a manually resettable breaker, or just bypass it (but you'll want to keep an eye on it and not leave it unattended). if you bypass it, I usually mark with a paint pen the unit "has no breaker" so I know to not leave it on without being around.
Bretny
Well-known member
As its been said the newer ones with reverse polarity protection wont charge a dead battery...i know sounds stupid and it is.
I have got many years out of my Pro mariner, but there really built more like onboard chargers than an automotive battery charger.
Do you really need 50a?
I have got many years out of my Pro mariner, but there really built more like onboard chargers than an automotive battery charger.
Do you really need 50a?
Davegvg
Well-known member
I own a boat shop + we work on grooming vans, rv's, and offroad vehicles
so we need to be able to charge and maintain - everything from tiny 3AH motorcycle batt- to a 400+AH bank of AGMS
The units we've standardized on are the Optimate 6 and 7, and the CTEK 2500.
The pro logixx/ Clore units have a good rep as well.
When we need 50 amps we'll use a roll around Schumacher, but dont ever really charge at that rate, vastly preferring between 5 and 20 amps max sustained charge using a throw down with logic vs a dumb timer unit.
Dave
so we need to be able to charge and maintain - everything from tiny 3AH motorcycle batt- to a 400+AH bank of AGMS
The units we've standardized on are the Optimate 6 and 7, and the CTEK 2500.
The pro logixx/ Clore units have a good rep as well.
When we need 50 amps we'll use a roll around Schumacher, but dont ever really charge at that rate, vastly preferring between 5 and 20 amps max sustained charge using a throw down with logic vs a dumb timer unit.
Dave
Buckaroo5
Well-known member
As its been said the newer ones with reverse polarity protection wont charge a dead battery...i know sounds stupid and it is.
That is bad info....perhaps the cheaper/older units had that issue but the Pro-Logix I have will charge a dead battery - I've done it. If the charge is less than 1 volt, it won't fire up when you start it in automatic mode. But, after making sure you have hooked-up the charger correctly, you can override the polarity protection by holding down the start button for 3 seconds. All in the manual. The new technology is pretty good - you absolutely need it unless all you ever intend to charge are lead acid batteries. Many newer vehicle batteries are located in the trunk and are AGM. Also, it eliminates the possibility of overcharging which has smoked many good batteries.
Buckaroo
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Right you are. I forgot about thermal shut down. In that case I would expect it to work for a bit after it cools off. Those caps take a beating with switching power supplies running at 20khz or better. They use electrolitics made for that but they still fail.Yes and no, depends on the design and whether or not it senses temperature and shuts down or reduces power. With switch mode supplies what seems to fail are the capacitors most of the time and again depending on the design that might not kill it, just wound it. My fan has be flaky for years but it still puts out close to 20 amps even on a hot day, I have measured the 75 amp start mode, but that never seemed that practical anyway.
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